My car dealer said that I must change oil in 5000 km or 6 months. My car didn't exceed the 5000 km yet. But last oil change was 8 months ago . Should I change oil after 5000 km.
View 11 Replies2001 Audi A4 1.8T... Driving down the highway the other day, a lovely place to be stricken w/car problems, the accelerator seemed to just up and quit on me. I went from a solid 70mph to 30, then w/in five seconds it came back to life, thrusting us forward back to speed, then within another five seconds, it cut out and I just made it onto the shoulder. Had it towed home. . . it will crank, but won't start, and now am wondering if it's worth the fix. Dealer just replaced a recalled part and gave me a supermarket list of to-fixes, none of which seem like they directly relate, especially w/out a check engine on or specific error codes. Have replaced the MAF sensor, Vacuum Check Valve, Gas tank/pump, Battery and Alternator w/in the past several years.
View 17 RepliesMy parents have a 08 trailblazer and the brakes stick. basically sometimes you stop and wait at a light or a stop sign, let off the brake and you can feel them stick for about a second and then release. they took it to the dealer, they said they felt it also but dont know what it is. we know its related to the brakes cause they take it there and they say they cleaned up the brakes and then it wont do it for a week or two then it will start doing it again. its still under warr. What it might be?
View 14 RepliesI have an automatic 2000 Volvo S70 with 202,000 miles. Over the past couple years, I've had an intermittent start problem that seems to only occur after a medium duration shutdown (15min-3hours) following a long duration of operation (about 2 hours or more, usually highway). When the problem occurs, all the lights on the dashboard light-up like everything is normal, but when I turn the key to the start position, nothing happens - silence, the car makes no attempt to start. Usually, I'll wait anywhere from 3 minutes to an hour or more and it'll start with no problem, like there was never a problem in the first place.
It seems to happen more frequently when it's hot outside, but it's hard to say for sure. And it seems to be random, within the parameters previously described; example: it happened twice on my recent drive to vacation, but not at all on the return trip home. Both days were hot, and all stops followed a similar pattern of operation/shutdown. And it never happens after a short stop following long operation; I've never been stuck in front of a gas pump. And I can run errands all day long, stop a dozen times in the blazing heat, and she'll start every time without a problem. It never happens first thing in the morning, and it never happens after I've been at work all day (even if the car has been parked in the sun all day).
Maybe it's because I've been away for two weeks and out of the RC, but when I drove for the first time in a while the car seems like it's noticeably bouncy on relatively smooth roads.
Again it could be my break from driving it. I mostly drive on Sport+ mode.
I bought this Escape used in Dec '10 with 29,000 miles. It is now at 36,500 (Sept '11). I have had it in for service 3 times in 3 months.
The passenger airbag seems faulty- if the seat is empty, the light will flip off (meaning airbag is on). If I sit in it, the light will go on and off intermittently. I'm 135 lbs- and the serviceman saw it happen as we drove around- yet when the car was given back to me after a week and a half, they stated they could not duplicate the problem and that no issues were found.
Now, I'm having starting issues. Once over Labor day weekend- I had driven my car, parked it, and went to get in it 5 minutes later- no start. No cranking, no clicking. All lights/radion come on. After sitting for about 20 minutes and attempting to start every couple minutes, it roared to life and was fine. Took in for service, and again- no codes, could not duplicate, so they sent it home.
Car sat for a week (I'm a student- it doesn't get much action except on weekends). Then yesterday, I drove it about 15 minutes, parked, came back 10 minutes later and it wouldn't start again. Again, after about 20 minutes of sitting and attempting to start, it started.
I've searched, and gone back through my computer history and can't find it. I have seen a thread here which Mark contributed too which said what the max temps were and for how long etc. I know book is 230 and optimum is around 165 but there was some degree of play in that.
View 8 RepliesI have about 160K on this truck, head gasket was repaired about 50k ago by former owner, has run pretty well and trouble free since I purchased it four years ago. Recently replaced plugs, coil packs, wires resulting in improved running/mileage. However, I've been getting a secondary air injection system error code for six months or so, (both before and after 'tune up'), performed snorkel modification to prevent uptake of road splashed water, checked fuses next to battery (good). Up to now I just ignored this sole error code since engine was running well. TPS checks 'good.'
Recently the engine would occasionally run poorly for short duration (@ all RPMs & regardless of throttle) and up to now simply parking overnight or just stopping briefly at a store would seem to reset the poor operation. Unfortunately within the last week it now runs like crap all the time: over revs for upshift, poor power, almost feels as if a cylinder is missing entirely, or timing has gone horribly 'off.' No other error codes, no obvious vacuum leaks. Ran through two bottles of Techron, no change. Does the 'toggling' of the engine running poorly/well offer any clues? Sticky injector?
I had my oil changed at 40,000. I am at 42,500 right now . My " change oil soon light " . Seem like a little soon ! Plus I am 5 hours from home on a ski trip. I have checked oil level it fine. Will I be fine to drive it home 5 hours back to my local dealership for oil change? Or should I find a place up here? What would cause the light to come on so soon ? I am new to this truck . My old 7.3 did not have all the BS that this truck has .
View 6 RepliesCircumstances required me to make an emergency trip to Phoenix this week. On the way down, I first got the "Oil change soon" warning, followed by the "Oil change required" message a few hundred miles later.
I religiously keep my truck serviced on time, and have never had either of these warnings come up before. My truck had 2700 miles on it since last service was done when this first warning came up. My truck gets very little idle time, so it's not sitting idling for hours a day.
My question is, is this oil change message a result of an actual oil monitoring sensor that measures oil quality on-the-fly, or is it strictly based on a miles or odometer timer that gets reset when dealer changes the oil?
At this point I'm wondering if the kid that serviced my truck either forgot to reset a timer, or worse, just "pencil whipped" my oil change. I have to call my home dealer back, since the service manager wasn't in yet when I called.
I read through the manual but can't figure out how to change to mph on the speedometer. I saw the full size Prius has a button but I see no button on my Prius-c.
View 17 RepliesI want to change spark plug, took connector of spark unit and took bolt M6 out, lifted spark unit but not enough clearance to remove the unit in order to use wrench for unscrewing spark plug. How it works?
View 14 RepliesI purchased my Prius in CA in late 2008. As the CA temperature was not drastic, the heater temperature was never an issue. Two years ago I moved to CO. Today, for instance, short sleeved weather, but only 35 outside - the sun is out, it's a great day. Now for those that don't live in CO, this may seem cold.. but here's the issue, my heater goes from LOW to 65, 66, ... and up.. there are many times 65 is way to warm, and "LOW" (the outside temp) is too cold, so I toggle back and forth. Is there any way I can reduce the heat coming into the car, so when it's at 65 (reading) perhaps it's warming to 55.
View 19 RepliesJust curious whether I would have sufficient access to change the oil on a prius using only ramps (no jackstands)? My main question areas woukd be whether the access door can be opened up fully and whether the filter can be accessed. I think my ramps are 8"?
View 18 RepliesRecently had an oil change. On the way home the ABS warning lights came on. Next day I realized cruise control didn't work. Today I realized battery is not charging/recharging when I apply brakes and tonight I realized energy monitor screen is not working.
View 3 RepliesNothing that was suggested in the forum so far works with my car. I agree with the others that it's not in the manual. Do I need to return to the dealer to get it changed?
View 19 RepliesI have been recently got an offer to move to OH from Toronto, Canada. One of the criteria to import my car to the US is to have my 2008 Prius Odometer from KM to Miles.
View 9 RepliesWhen and how to change?
View 2 RepliesI think my battery is low in both of my fob keys.It's not unlocking every time anymore but I don't see any access to get into this thing....Don't want to do damage cause i'm sure it wouldn't be cheap.
View 3 RepliesOk. Seriously they have to change the dash. No way is my wife going to let me drive a car where she can't see the speedometer.
View 6 RepliesJust DIY'd the first oil change on my new 2013 Prius at 2100 miles. When I first started the engine after the oil change, it was knocking and sounded a little rough for about 5-10 seconds.
View 19 Replies