HiMy prius c ,s steering wheel is sometimes smooth but sometimes its hard. I tested on the same road with only me inside the vehicle. Is there something wrong with the rack ? My tire size is 195/65/r16.
View 4 RepliesIn tight corners exits off the freeway, usually speed limit is around 20 - 25, my steering wheel is to hard to turn just like there is NO power steering at all. Feeling the same when turning around my neighborhood. Mine is C4 just bought it last Sunday June 3rd: is it defective?
View 9 RepliesThe problem makes the car unsafe to drive. The quickest way to describe it is a hard pull to the left after a very linear steering feel. My perception is almost as something is holding on and then just fails and lets go and the car quite abruptly shoots left in a very unsafe manner. Here are the things I have done to remedy the situation, I replaced the struts with factory replacements 15,000 miles ago. At the same time i replaced the left and right axles, drove the car with the problem then last weekend, I replaced the upper tie rod arms, and lower tie rod ends, the sway bar bushings, and the control arms on both sides. I literally feel as though it is a darn near new front end.
Just yesterday I had 4 new Goodyear eagle tires and an alignment done and the problem became more pronounced and worst. I really like this car and want it to be a joy to drive as I know from others these little hatchbacks are a real joy on winding mountain roads.
My 2009, 6 cylinder, 3.6, AWD Caddy CTS with 175K miles as started to have steering problems. No squealing or funny noises, just very hard to steer, at low speeds and high speeds. Ocassionally it is fine but most of the time very hard, esspecially at low speeds, trying to park and things like that. My question is : how can I tell if its the power steering pump or the steering rack or maybe, and hopefully just a relay or fuse before I bring it to get repaired. If I know its the pump I can just get a peplacement from rock auto and bring it to my local mechanic and save a ton of money. If its the rack I'm stuck taking it to the dealer and losing my house to pay for it.
View 2 RepliesMy car steering wheel is hard to turn now and i don't know why it's doing this.
View 4 RepliesI've noticed for a few weeks now that sometimes when I'm driving the steering wheel will pull kind of hard to the right. It'll do it for a while and then it'll go to the left, or it'll just go straight. It started to wobble and shake last week. I had the tires rotated and balanced a few days ago. It revealed that one of the two original tires had a broken belt. I had it replaced and the car drove better.
Today I had to go out of town and I still felt the wheel pulling in my hand to the right for a little bit and some small vibration that stopped after some miles. I checked the wheels and I didn't see a nail or anything sticking out. This is a very basic Caliber. No RPM gauge, no electric windows, or door locks, not even cruise control. I've had it for three years now. I've changed all but one of the original tires. It has over 99,000 miles on it.
I've got a nasty groan and vibration on the steering wheel coming from my Steering Pump when I turn hard right or left. There seems like a little bit of oil around the pump and some traces of shiny metal (tiny sparkles) near the spline so I'm pretty sure the pump and pulley needs replacing.
View 1 RepliesHaving trouble turning my wheel both ways on my trail blazer. Just replaced wheel bearings on truck not sure what would causing this. Also tries are wearing down..
View 6 RepliesMy friend with an 07 with about 109k miles on it now has started getting a "groaning" noise whenever the wheel is cut hard to the right or left, either sitting still or rolling. A local repair shop (not the dealer) checked it out and said there was some "stuff that needed to be lubricated". Not trusting this opinion he went to a Toyota dealer where he was getting new brake pads installed on all 4 corners (no Lexus dealer in the city where he lives), they diagnosed the car as needing 4 new struts and a new balljoint.
If in fact he does need the struts and balljoint, I am thinking chances are there will be a bunch more suspension stuff that should really be done at the same time when everything is apart anyway - perhaps bushings, endlinks, etc?
Is he better off sticking with the OEM strut replacements or should he go aftermarket? He's not looking to slam the car or anything, and is more of a ride comfort guy than handling enthusiast.
If the front rotors are warped would I not feel it when braking anytime and not just braking hard at high speed?
View 2 RepliesSo today out of nowhere the truck starts acting up with the steering. It got tuff to turn the wheel and then would "release" and steer ok. I drained the fluid (brownish and stinky) and added new.......
Crawled under the truck and the rack was damp....... The old fluid (likely original with 120k) had small metallic piec s in it.......Is the rack toast? Or shall I look somewhere else too?
My car's about 1.5 years old and 10k miles. About a week ago I started noticing that the power steering got a fair amount heavier/stiffer: it's suddenly a bit harder to turn the wheel. It came out of nowhere and I can't identify a cause, and the local dealership couldn't find anything wrong with the car. (2012 SE I4)
Since it's electric power steering I'm not sure what could have gone wrong here... and while it doesn't make the car un-driveable, it is rather annoying. The tire pressure is still around 37 PSI (according to the sensors) and they're Michelin.
I have a Jeep Liberty 2002 Sports. When it is cold and the car has been sitting for a while, when I start the car, the steering wheel is locked or hard to move. I have not tried to force it. But it will move if I rev the engine to a certain point. Once I rev the engine I can move the steering wheel again. I have left the car to warm up before revving the engine, but this does not work with the steering, I have to rev the engine in order to "unlocked" the wheel.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2004 Saab 9-3. Currently the Battery Warning Light has come on. It came on while the car was being driven. The car's performance seemed to suffer and it was hard to turn the steering wheel. We were about two miles away from home and we somehow managed to get home but we simply couldn't get the car to turn on to our driveway because of loss of power for steering.
We checked the Saab manual and it reads : Warning Charging - This light comes on together with 'triangle/exclamation' light if the battery is not charging. If it comes on while you are driving, stop the car as soon as possible and switch off the engine.Check the alternator drive belt. If the belt has broken, the engine may overheat (cooling system will not function properly), the battery will not be charged, the A/C compressor will not run and power assistance for steering will be lost.
Our observation:- We experienced the a/c not working too well- We had problem with steering - It was almost as if the steering wheel was locked. It was extremely hard to turn. Is this an alternator belt or a battery issue? If so, how do we figure out?
I have a 2004 Suzuki Aerio with a 2.3 4 cylinder 5 spd. The problem I'm having is when I accelerate the car pulls to the right hard the steering wheel turns about 5 degrees. When I left off the throttle the steering wheel comes back to center and I hear a pop and feel coming from the passenger front. It also does this while I'm at speed I can hit a bump in the road and get the same problem. I just gave the car an alignment and the issue got worse now my whole car feels like it shifts to the right and left.....
View 3 RepliesBut I have noticed over the past week of driving, whenever the RPMs are around 1000-2000, it is very hard for me to pick up speed, and I can feel a little bit of a rumble/vibration through the steering wheel. So...
If I feather the gas, the RPM increases slightly and you can hear/feel the engine rumble/vibrate. The speed doesn't really increase...
If I hit the gas more than 1/2 way down, turbo kicks in and the car shoots forward.
Is this normal? I find it very hard to add a little bit of acceleration if I feather it, the engine seems to be resisting it, if I hit it any harder, the turbo kicks in around 2500 RPMs. It almost feels as if it is in too high of a gear and the engine has a hard time accelerating a little bit...This is around ~40-60KM/hr
I have a 1991 F250 Lariat, 4x4, 460 engine, auto trans. I am having trouble with my steering. The power stering turns good to the left but when I turn to the right it is like there is no power and is very tough to turn.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2012 Explorer Limited with 95K miles. Under medium to hard braking, the steering wheel wobbles, and the car slows irregularly. I'm struggling to find the best word to describe. It's not a vibration or a shudder. It's like a pulsing that is slow enough to be counted. The car doesn't pull to a side under braking, either.
I put a dial indicator on both rotors, and they are nearly perfectly flat. There is no evidence of a leak anywhere. The only think I noticed is that the DS caliper had a little more pressure on the rotor, making the rotor harder to turn than the PS rotor.
The power steering on my 2001 Honda Civic intermittently cuts out and the wheel becomes really hard to turn. The belt is tight and the fluid level is correct.
The weird thing about it, is it only happens in cold weather. Everything was fine all summer, but now that the weather has turned colder the problem has reappeared. Same thing happened last year. . .
I have an 8 inch lift with 37x13.5 inch tires and dual front steering stabilizers. when I'm stopped I can barely turn the wheel. my buddy has a 6 inch lifted excursion with 35 inch tires in his is easy, one hand no problem. Would the difference in tire size really make that big of a difference or am I having a steering pump issue?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2009 screw with ~60k miles. It is used for DD and tows our small camper or my flat deck w/jeep.
The other day I noticed an issue when turning right. The wheel gets hard to turn and does not want to return to center. There is also a low speed clunk you can feel in the steering wheel/column itself.
The truck is at the dealer now and they said the rack needs to be replaced and there is something in the column they need to replace too. I have the extended warranty, so this is all but covered 100%. I just have a deductible to pay.
I have not hit anything with the truck, so I am not sure what caused these issues.