I heard some weird sounds, it sounded like some metal dropping on concrete, when I stepped on the brake while making turns. I know in the manual it says "Sounds may be heard due to regenerative braking when the brake pedal is depressed." in P.28, but was the sound normal?
View 5 RepliesAt 75K my passenger side rear brakes were making metal on metal sound. I was really surprised as I have always learned that the front brakes take 80% of load and they always go out before the backs. So I took the wheel off and sure enough the pads were metal on metal. Changed everything out. (new rotors). I then went over to the driver side rear brake. Looks brand new. The pistons were barely out. I figured this caliper is bad. (I haven't change yet)
When I drive I can hear a very faint metal on metal sound when I brake. VERY FAINT. So with 75K miles on I figure the front brakes are due. Today I took the wheels off and inspected them. Tons of pad left on both of them. If I didn't know better I would say a brake job had been done very recently. (I've owned the car new so I know they have not had a brake job) However after reading many articles on this site I found a thread where one user said he was changing his front brakes for the first time with 110K on them and the pads still had 10K left in them. So the fact that my front pads are still pristine at 75K may not be a big deal (or not as big as I thought. Also I am not hard on brakes.)
However I'm not sure what is going on. Why would the passenger rear brake be metal on metal at 75K and the three other pads are like new. Is the passenger rear the only one working (or working much harder than the others) meaning the other three are bad? Or is the rear passenger bad and the other three are good? I have a working knowledge of cars but I am by no means a mechanic.
I've been hearing a metal on metal sound coming from the brakes. I checked the pads with the wheel on and they all looked good. The back were replaced before I bought the car back in October. Last night the brake warning light came on, so I brought to my local shop. Longer story short, the inner pad was completely worn out, but the outer's were good.
View 2 RepliesSo...I just took my car in last week to replace the TPS and noticed that the car is now making a weird sound when I reverse (out of parking spaces, etc). The sounds seems to be coming from the rear of the car the sound is similar to metal scraping concrete and happens intermittently. I'm wondering if this is a random coincidence or if this could be related to the recent work done on the TPS. If my brakes hadn't been completely replaced a year ago, I'd suspect it might be those. What could cause this sound?
View 5 RepliesI own a 2010 Toyota Prius that recently developed a metal-on-metal whining scraping sound when moving. It does not make sound when the vehicle is stationary, and it's intermittent - which makes me discount the rock-in-disc-rotor idea (not eliminate it, mind you). It's quite loud when it occurs, able to hear it over the stereo. Luckily I was near work at the time, so I went there - but the shop can't even look at it until Monday evening - so I am a bit panicked.
View 8 RepliesI had a problem with my brakes about 4 months ago. They were making a barking noise when I stepped on the brake pedal. The dealer bled the brakes and reflashed software. Now the problem is back and they say I probably new a new brake actuator. It should be covered by the extended warranty. I hope a new actuator will fix this. I like everything else about the car. (Have 37,000 miles)
View 16 RepliesI have 2013 es300h with 8500 miles on her, it's almost a year old for about the last two months when I turn off the car it makes a sound like a groan or metal stretching ? I know it sounds funny but heard any strange noises after turning off there car?
View 14 RepliesWhen it's cold and the car heats up, you can hear the hood sheetmetal make an 'oil-can' buckle sound. Happens frequently while running in cold weather. It's not the hood itself, but perhaps the metal underneath. It's noticeably loud.
View 2 RepliesMy 98 CR-V is now making a metal on metal ticking noise. The noise only occurs when the car is in motion. The noise seems to occur about every two revolutions of the wheels when moving slowly; I can't determine if the ratio holds true at higher speeds. The noise seems more prevalent when standing on the car's passenger side, but not significantly. The car has 225K miles.
View 6 RepliesHave a 05 GLI tiptronic. Every time while making a left turn there is a LOUD vibrating/rattling sound coming from underneath my shifter. Dealership told me it was my exhaust rattling since it was larger than OEM. That doesn't sound right at all.....
View 1 RepliesIn the summer months when the air conditioning is in use, there is a back up of water. i can hear the water sloshing sound when the air is on and when making sharp turns it actually drains out on the front floor, both driver and passenger sides. it has also overflowed out the backseat air vents. my mechanic has told me the drain on this vehicle is tiny and becomes clogged easily. the car is parked in my garage, not left out in the elements so i disagree.
View 1 RepliesI'm getting a clunk sound from my Passat's front left suspension when making turns. I've found info on how to diagnose control arms and I plan to jack the car up tomorrow and check it out. But how would I diagnose a tie rod end problem?
My Passat has 53,000 miles on it.
Last year, when the passenger's side CV boot ripped and all that grease few around, it started to make that familiar clicking sound when making turns. I had a heck of a time replacing it. Did not like to doing the work.
Now, the driver's side boot is ripped. Grease everywhere. The clicking sound is just starting to be noticeable. Can I just wash out the CV joint and repack it with grease and a new boot? Or, should I just replace the CV joint?
Grill blocked today for the first time and have a couple questions.
Temps have been dropping more these last 3-4 days and have noticed my MPG dropping as well so I thought I'd try grill blocking.
Tempts have been and will be high 30s-low 40s in the morning and upper 50s to mid 60s for the high.
At first I just wedged the pipe insulation and drove one trip. I didn't feel comfortable that it would hold for the long haul so I added zip ties.
I used two pieces of pipe insulation 1/2 inch copper / 3/8 inch iron. Up close it looks like 2/3 or 3/4 of the grill is covered.
My two questions:
For fWT, at what temperature should it not exceed?
At what outside temperature should I remove the pipe insulation? In the Phoenix area, temperatures rise in March and sometimes we will have a short period of warmer than normal temps in February. I just want to make sure I do not cause overheating.
I have a 2003 Ford F150 with a 5.4V8 Triton 4X4. The truck is about to roll over 200K here soon. I am feeling/hearing a vibration/grinding sound coming from the truck when I am moving slowly and making turns, either left or right turns. Seems to happen more so on left hand turns. I have changed all power train fluids and filter, and still does it. I do not feel or notice the vibration/grinding when I am going straight or at highway speeds. It is only when I am moving from a stop and making turns. How to diagnose, find out, repair, fix this issue?
View 4 RepliesI got a heat shield that just will not stop causing me grief. When I installed the headers and pipes I had a heat shield that was too close to the passenger side pipes. I bent it down some to clear the pipe and got rid of a nasty metallic sound I had on the throttle and making left hand turns. Well that little sound returned last week and I crawled under and looked and sure enough the heat shield was touching again.
Who knows why maybe a bit a spring sag. So yesterday I bent it down a little more. Today I start getting a nasty clunk on dips and especially when on a bump why turning. I crawl under there too look and find the same heat shield now has a huge gouge on the under side of it where the leaf spring near the rear bushing is smacking it. I'm sure Ford put it there for a good reason so hate to remove it.
First pic of the hacked up bend job I put on it.
Second pic of the gouge in the bottom of it where it's hitting.
I have a 2007 hyundai sonata, this car is my daily driver. I put 180 miles on it a day around trip. Currently has 180,200 miles on it. Last Friday on my trip home when i turned right I heard a metal on metal sound. I slowed down went straight and it went away. Talked to a few people and I think it may be the wheel bearing. Even if I hit a road reflector it starts up. It's the front left wheel. Get on the breaks it goes away.
So my question is... Wheel bearing??? And can I replace the whole hub and fix the problem or do I have to try and press the bearing out?
I have a 2003 Toyota Solara 4 cyl. auto. transmission. I recently had the head replaced. Now it is making a metal on metal sound near the drivers side of the engine. It makes the sound during idle, when I change gears, and the sound increases when I rev the engine. What could it be?
View 8 RepliesI thought i heard this yesterday when i left work but i was tired and said its in my head, THEN i go to leave right now and sure enough its a real sound, you can hear it very well through the front grill and then if you turn the volume up you can hear a ticking sound ever half a second or so, it also speeds up when i was pulling on the throttle cable. And after the truck fully warms up it goes away.......
View 14 RepliesMy 2011 2.4l Sonata made a metal on metal sound suddenly the other day. About 4 days ago, I drove about 2 hours away from where I live, Mostly highway, about 80mph to a go kart race. Got out of the car for a while and came back in and was pulling away to run the store and as i started to approach the first stop sign maybe 500-600 ft from where i was parked, i heard a bad metal on metal sound, came to a complete stop at the sign and it stopped. Went back to the race after driving to the store about 5 miles away.
Got in the car to leave and same thing, just to the stop sign 500-600ft away. Drove home like i said mostly highway, and didn't hear a thing. Today, about 4 days later, I drove to Chicago O'hare airport, about 30min away, and it was fine the whole way there. However on the way back, after about 20-25min, I heard it again. So I came to complete stop as I was forced to by a traffic light as I was taking my exit off the highway, and It started making that sound again. So i came to a complete stop at the light and started moving again when it turned green and couldn't heard a thing.
I picked my R up three weeks ago tomorrow. I took it in this morning because there has been brake noise from day one. The noise was a scraping, metal on metal sound that diminished a fair amount when the brakes were warm. I only got a very brief conversation with the service agent at the dealership this afternoon, and all he told me is that they had to order in new brakes. I don't know if it's just pads, or calipers or rotors or the whole deal! I'll get the whole scoop tomorrow.
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