Prius C :: Shifting To Neutral At Red Lights Bad For Transmission?
Aug 6, 2014
I shift to neutral when approaching a red light when my speed is exactly at 7 mph to save on battery power that would otherwise continue to propel the car forward. Combined with proper timing, this also allows my car to come to a complete stop without the use of brakes on flat roads. Once stopped, I immediately shift back to drive to allow the battery to charge if needed and of course in preparation for the green light.
A few sites, such as Putting your car in neutral at read lights. Good or bad? (red light, manual transmission) - Automotive -Sports cars, sedans, coupes, SUVs, trucks, motorcycles, tickets, dealers, repairs, gasoline, drivers... - City-Data Forum mention that shifting from drive to neutral at red lights, then back to drive again when the lights turn green puts wear on automatic transmissions.
Given that the Prius C has CVT, will it also wear, due to such frequent D -> N -> D shifting under the circumstances described?
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So yesterday after running an errand I got home, after having dinner I was about to head out and, SURPRISE! The car wouldn't start... The engine doesn't turn, no lights on the gauges when inserting the key, no clicks.... the battery seems fine, as the radio works, the anti-theft/alarm works well, the 2nd key behaves the same way.
This morning, I called VW road side, the tow truck they sent couldn't take the car because it is in a tight spot and we can shift the car to neutral. We tried resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery without success... What to do??
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I have a relative that does this allot i didn't think was a good idea he said it don't hurt anything, and get better millage. Can this hurt anything, or actually improve mileage other than maybe coasting with it in gear? 2014 ram ....
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When taking off the 1-2 shift and the 2-3 shift the truck will go into a neutral state for 2-5 seconds. when this occurs, the rpms will rev since your foot is on the accelerator. Once you let off the accelerator the rpms come down and the gear will catch. I have had the truck in the shop a few times without any luck. part of the problem is no codes are thrown so the dealer has no clue what to look for. This is extremely dangerous when in my case i pull out on a 6 lane hwy with 55mph speed limit. Ford more or less said to pound salt until a code is thrown or until something else happens. this nearly caused a nasty wreck 2 weeks ago.
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For decades, in preparation for washing our cars, I've been shifting them into neutral without starting up, and rolling them out of the garage. Typically there's a mechanical "keep it in park" lock that needs to be bypassed. Then, once you've released the parking brake, you can open the driver's door and get your car moving in "foot mode".
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Is it ok to shift into neutral when the car is moving?
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I am a new 2010 prius owner and I am very interested in obtaining the max MPG in my new car I have read and seen video with regard to the pulse and glide method. My question is
1. can you shift into neutral on the glide
2. can this do any harm to the car.
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Eco Transmission. Neutral at stop lights save gas compared to Drive?
I almost feel like when I'm stopped in Drive it's actually in neutral. I'm curious if being in Neutral at really long red lights would save gas?
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Recent purchase of new 2014 Prius v model 3. Less than 5,000 miles on odo. Transmission shifted into neutral on two occasions when making a right hand turn while going over a small depression (drainage swail). Of course Toyota recommends that I take it to their dealer for diagnosis but if they can't pull the code they will send me on my way. Going to go anyway but feel it is pointless.
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I have a Gen II 2009 Prius with 31K miles on it. I love my Prius and until now had no issues with it. Last Saturday when I was driving on the highway, the following lights came on the dashboard.
1) Master Caution Light
2) VSC
3) ((!)) 'electronic brake malfunction'
4) Check engine light
The car seemed to be handling fine, and I kept on driving. However, after a few miles the car would go in neutral, I would need to stop before it will let me drive. I got to where I needed to go and then had the car towed to the dealer service shop.
The dealer came back and said that the water pump for the inverter needed changing (it was under warranty) plus the 12V utility battery also needed changing. They saw the DTS codes when the connected their computer to the car. I have my car back and other than the price of the battery had a really good experience with the dealer service center. They were prompt and efficient. Also it seems to me that car is driving more in the electric mode with the engine coming on less. Just my impression.
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My fiancee has a 2005 base model and is out shopping today. She just called me and said that she is stuck in a parking lot.
She told me on the way off the highway today the "big and little" triangles came on, but the car drove fine. When she got back to her car to leave, the car would turn on presumably, but all the warning lights were on. She then said that the car would not go into drive and only into neutral.
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Have read threads on car wash issues but have only had the dreaded red triangle flash with no problems as a result. Tuesday, however, got ALL the lights on and now car will not go past warm up phase and only goes in neutral or park. Lights come on, clock reads correct time, and radio works. Tried a jump to aux battery, a reset of the main hybrid battery and finally had my baby towed to the local dealer. 2 days later they are telling me the transmission needs to be replaced. They say I have an irreparable short in the transmission and the replacement is $5000. With no issues with transmission and only two bars magenta in color on the battery level showing is this a transmission issue or a battery issue. Can't say I have had great luck with the local dealer on previous maintenance so my confidence is not high. Love my girl but unsure whether the car is worth this repair at 8 years old and 183,000 on the odometer.
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2009 Touring Dead at 55000... All lights on dash light up and won't shift to reverse or drive only neutral. Towed to dealer and they said it threw several codes and are replacing the tranny.
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My 1992 chevy k1500 blazer full size is having trouble shifting from 1st and 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. I reset the linkage it did fine for a day and now it's doing the same thing but it almost goes into neutral while shifting into some gears. And seems to lack power, the 92 doesn't have cyanoids and the transmission was redone 2 years ago when I got the truck. Could this have anything to do with the fuel filter? I know the transmission isn't bad. The Rpms are shooting up way too high.
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I shift my auto trans to neutral when approaching a red light. My theory is it reduces brake wear, reduces tranny and motor wear while sitting at the light and uses less fuel to remain in neutral until the light changes. My wife thinks it may harm the tranny.
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My car makes a high chatter sound when I shift from neutral to either first or reverse but no other time. what does that mean? should I stop driving it until I can get it looked at? it's not slipping or grinding at all, just makes a noise as I let the clutch out and engage the gear.
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My automatic 2007 Nissan Altima has developed an intermittent problem when I go to shift it into park it won't shift down past neutral. I can't physically move the gear shift past neutral and can't take my key out of the car. If I wait awhile or drive off somewhere else it will later allow me to shift normally again and won't happen for awhile. It has happened maybe 8-9 times but I worry it will get worse or break the transmission. I've taken it to a mechanic and they looked at the transmission and didn't see a problem but sense they couldn't recreate the issue they couldn't fix it.
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My 1998 Ford Explorer XLT v6 with about 233,000 miles on it has a bit of a problem. Infrequently, when I shift into reverse from park or neutral the engine dies. It restarts without issue. There are no strange noises or smells when this happens.
The transmission was rebuilt 10,000 miles ago by a reputable mechanic. Almost all of the 230k+ miles are highway miles. Each trip around 40 miles.
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08 Expedition... I drive an automatic and I frequently shift to neutral during down or cruise to a stop light. Does this affect the gear assembly, brakes, etc.
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I have a '98 F150 4.2l with 230k miles on it. A couple of days ago when starting, I noticed that the engine kept racing instead of idling down like it normally does and the weather here in Arkansas has approached the 80 degree mark. The engine also doesn't idle down when shifting (I have a manual tranny). Where to start? I don't have any codes stored other than two for bank 1 and bank 2 running lean but they popped up many miles ago. I'm thinking either a vacuum leak or throttle control. I checked the operation of the cable and the throttle valve and they appear to be fine. Maybe the idle air control?
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Transmission trouble on an 2006 F150 5.4 triton ... The problem I am having is when you are driving down the road once you hit 30 mph and it goes to shift into the its like it goes into neutral. It does that rill you slow back down to a lower speed then it shifts back down the transmission picks right back up till you get up to speed again, then it like it goes into neutral again. When I turn overdrive off it won't shift out of second gear. I have changed the valve body to the transmission to no success.
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