Prius C :: Robot Whistling Noise Coming Out Of Proximity Warning System
Aug 15, 2012
At the service department now... My little C started making this strange noise coming out of the proximity warning system... It sounds like a robot whistling (I don't know how else to describe it) when I'm moving in low speeds. There's also a small grinding noise like something is caught and rubbing up against something. I hope it's nothing major, but I sure am anxious waiting for them to diagnose the problem!
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I Have 17400 Miles on my Wagon and After Three Weeks in the Shop I am going to pick up my Car next Monday from the Dealer. I Did not have any Warnings Just Whistling Noise which was coming from under the hood.That was weary Loud Noise. I took my car to the dealer and they told it look like a bad Engine belt. After few days they told me my transmission is bad and needs to be Completely Replaced. I Read so many different stories on this Forum about Transmission Problems and i never had any problem till now.
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Recently bought a 2012 gti last week, everything is great until I hear a weird whistling noise coming from the engine. I suspected it was the water pump, since i researched it and some people had the same problem. Brought it back to vw to get it checked and they said their was nothing wrong and it was a common problem.
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I have noticed a whistling noise coming from under the hood. When I inspected it I notices suction coming form a small hole on the rear drivers side of the valve cover. From the little information I could find this is a PCV valve of sorts that is molded into the valve cover itself. The local dealership quoted nearly 850.00 for parts and labor. I spent a little time calling around. A VW dealer in a local city said that there was not a valve molded into the valve cover, and most likely this whistling was being caused by a hole in a vacuum line somewhere else between the engine and the firewall. This small hole is located above the where the crank case ventilation hose meets the valve cover. Is my local dealer correct in that it is the PCV valve that is part of the valve cover? Is this a fairly straight forward repair that can be done in the garage, and are there any other aftermarket fixes besides purchasing a whole valve cover?
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I am having a whistling noise coming from my front axle... It only happens when the hubs are locked and in 4WD when hubs are unlocked and in 4wd there is no whistling noise... I know they are vacuum operated for the auto hubs... We just got a good snow fall the past few days and have had to have the lockers locked to stay straight... Also can I keep the hubs locked and cruise and 55 to 60 mph ? or is it not good for the locking hubs...
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I've got some issues with my 2005 Toyata Prius (~150,000 miles). My wife was driving recently and the "Master Warning Light", the "Hybrid System Warning Light" and the yellow "Brake System Warning Light" all came on.
Some quick reading of the owners manual said we should take it to a dealer right away, but because it was a yellow, and not red, brake system warning light it seems ok to drive at least to a dealer. in regard to the yellow brake system light the manual said it could be that: "the regenerative brake system failed or that the hydraulic brake system failed".
Now, I have a cheap bluetooth OBD reader hooked up to the "torque" app on my phone and I thought I would try to see what error codes there were to learn more. But strangely, it did not read any fault codes. I've used this reader successfully on my 2001 Mitsubishi galant, but I'm not reading anything for the prius in this case. I'm not sure if there is legitimately no error code associate with the warning lights or if my app is just failing to read them for some reason.
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I get this intermittent whistling noise coming from the rear drivers side. Sounds like a coffee pot whistling on a stove. After I drive about ten or twelve miles it goes away and diminishes into a hissing noise. Is it possible the fuel pump is failing? I have a 2005 trailblazer with 105000 miles.
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Got a tire rotation a two weeks ago on my new 2013 Kia Forte (purchased in August 2012).Now, I have a very high pitched whistling noise coming from the rear tire area. The sound happens at all speeds. The sound is the worse at very slow speeds; the sound is also very bad at very slow speeds when I touch the brakes and turn the wheel.I looked at back tires from outside the car (not underneath the car). The mechanical set-up of back tires look very different than that of the front tires. The back tires have metal parts touching each other while the front tires do not.
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I've a new Santa Fe bought in March this year. Car works perfectly but i just noticed a whistling noise problem coming from the top/back of the car (it si located over the roof) when reaching speed of 70mph or above.
I removed the roof rack cross rails but still this noise remains. I feel it is something related to the aerodynamic of this car and the particular roof rails system. Tried to tape some connections between the rails and the car roof but nothing is changing.
I drive mostly on highway all days for work and this problem is driving me mad. I took back car to the dealer, he checkd (but i'm not sure) telling that everything is "normal"!
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There is a whistling noise that is coming from under the hood of my Jeep. It is more noticeable on cold days. It temporarily disappears when my foot is on the accelerator or after I have been idling at a stop sign for 30 seconds. The noise starts again when I start driving.
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2001 F150 SCAB with 74,000 miles. There seems to be a whistling noise coming from the front axle. It is definately a rolling noise. I can shift into neutral and put it in 4H and still have the noise. Brakes are good, tires are fair... I just rotated my tires (criss-crossed front to back) also sprayed all of my boots with silicone spray. Still has a whistling metal to metal bearing sound. When I have the front jacked up and spin the wheels, there seems to be a decent drag turning by hand. I don't remember having much of a drag before.
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My Ranger has 296,000 miles on it. Most everything has been replaced except the u-joints. It's a 2wd 2.5L with an automatic. The motor was replaced at 228,000 with a used motor with 52,000 miles. The transmission has about 60,000 miles on it. All the bearings in the rear end were replaced about 20,000 miles ago. It has the most annoying whistling noise coming from the rear only sometimes. I don't know if it's the brakes being misadjusted or a bearing with a burr in it. It happens at random times but it's such a high pitched whistling you know everyone on the road can hear it too. There is also a driveline vibration, very minor though when over 60. However, I've had the drums checked and even had the wheels balanced many times. My friend said the ujoint grease could be dried up, but the whistling noise only happens at random, the virbation is anytime you're at highway speeds. It's not a violent vibration just enough to tell that it's not a brand new truck anymore. What it could be?
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Usually after I run the car in manual/sport mode, I begin to hear a high-pitched 'hissing/whistling' noise coming from the engine. It sounds like a vacuum leak. It is audible while driving with the windows down.
I am having problems pin pointing the source, but it sounds like its coming from the center block. What is the right direction to the leak? It starts exactly at 1500 and cuts off at 2200 rpm (while in gear). 1500 to 3000 rpm while in park..
I have a Takeda intake installed and I re-tighten the fittings.
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Having issue with an occasional whistling noise. Mine seems to happen once I get to 80km/hr(50mph) or above. Seems to be coming from the drivers side area around the side mirror or windshield frame. Being winter the windows and sunroof have been closed and it doesn't seem to be consistent so it's hard to figure out what could be causing it.
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After hearing some loud noise coming from my exhaust system, it was determined that there is a hole (from rust) in part of the cat. assembly. Three shops advised for replacement, there are no aftermarket products for this unit. I have NOT gotten any error codes, the only problem is the noise. What to do? The car is 10 years old with 86000 miles. I have been reading about some of you getting just the one piece and having it welded on, but I do not believe any of the shops here will do that, and indicated that it would be a very temporary fix.
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Faint humming/whistling noise coming from the drivings side of the motor. I can hear it when I put my head next to the drivers wheel well, and most certainly from that side of the motor when the hood is popped. It's not super loud, but it is noticeable. I know we have Direct injection motors, so I know that ticking is completely normal. Am I overlooking this and being paranoid? Car has 2100 miles on it. I don't know if it was there when brand new.
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HDo Viper keyless remotes act like my 2012 Toyota Prius proximity key remote? The functionality where I can 'press to start' the car when the proximity key is inside the vehicle?
will I still be required to carry my Prius's proximity key at the same time as the Viper remote (Viper 4608v)?
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Car suddenly started a high pitched whistling noise/metal on metal sound at highway speeds. It is intermittent, no noticeable pattern w/acceleration or braking. Similar sound at lower volume when the shock/spring is depressed (pushing down on that corner of the car). Louder at low speeds.
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On the passenger door the proximity sensor stopped working. 2014 PP. When I touch the door with the FOB in my pocket it does not unlock. If i swipe my finger on the door handle with the fob in my pocket it does not lock.
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I just bought a used 2012 Toyota Prius iTech from a country town 3 hours away. About an hour into the drive home, the display informed me to "Check Hybrid System" and then "Check PCS System". The car continued to function for a little while, then eventually lost acceleration, so I pulled over. I turned it off and on again; the warning light remained but the car started and continued to work, but soon after I lost acceleration again. This happened one more time.
Then I Googled the problem and discovered that you could "turn it off and on again three times to reset the computer". I did this and the problem disappeared and did not resurface for the remainder of the trip, and has not happened again since.
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I was trying to install the invisicord cable for my escort radar detector thru the auto dimming/homelink mirror, I shorted it and homelink no longer has any power, a couple minutes later i got a check hybrid system.
Now question how do i restore power to the homelink mirror, is there a fuse to replace? And that warning and all the other warnings that i got related to the short. I read somewhere here that if power to the homelink mirror was off that you get no power to some systems, not sure where is that post, cant find it the car starts.
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