So I have no high-lights on mirror controls and dash light adjuster (2 button clusters under left hand). I went to dealer, and after looking at this and also looking at other "brand new" C they tell me that it is not supposed to be lit up.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2011 Prius IV and have noticed the power mirror controls have no back lighting. Is this correct or do I have a light out?
View 7 RepliesAre your mirror controls illuminated when you turn the lights on?
View 4 RepliesIn my 2010, I have a red LED light in the lower left dashboard- in a series of four buttons next to mirror controls, none of which are used- that suddenly started blinking when I start the car, and drive it. I'm not getting any other trouble indicators from the main screen. What it could be?
View 1 RepliesYesterday I got in my 2000 Rav4 and for no apparent reason the radio, digital clock, and the mirror adjuster didn't work. I checked all of the fuses and replaced one 15amp in the dash but it didn't fix the problem.
View 2 RepliesI have noticed that all of my switches light up at night with a greenish glow. The only ones that don't are the mirror control switches and the dash light control bright and dim switch. Its hard to see these switches at night because its in dark side to the left of the steering wheel . The 120 volt switch will light up when you turn it on but there is no back light to any of the switches I mentioned . If they are supposed to light up then my truck needs to have the bulbs replaced.. If they are not supposed to light then I will look no further
View 14 RepliesI've noticed that at speeds of 60+ (especially 65+), the Prius control doesn't seem "tight." I wouldn't go as far as saying it has a "shimmy" but it's harder to keep straight on the highway. I absolutely adore my Prius but this bothers me. I had the alignment checked and it's perfect. I know all small cars tend to be less grounded than, say, an SUV, but I'm still curious if this is normal before I take it into the dealer.
View 15 RepliesMy partner drove the Prius with 54,000 miles to work this morning as he always does. So he is on lunch and sent me a text saying some warning lights appeared on the dash while he was sitting at a red light. I asked if he had any loss of power, if the battery fan was running, he said it drove normally. We bought it last summer with 44,000 miles from a Toyota dealer. They said it had a new inverter pump. It has the original 12v battery however. Though it doesn't act weak at all. No issues this winter at all.
Note, the battery in the photo is at 1 bar. I asked him about it and he said he was driving aggressively to work today, which includes a 2 mile 6% climb he said he made at a high rate of speed... Though after the exit, he has another mile to work.. So the battery should have built itself up before him parking it.
I have a 2009 Prius with NON HID headlights. The left one appears to not adjust properly. If I remove the bulb boot, the light bounces up and down (the part that is supposed to adjust). When I turn the adjuster, it will wiggle down then up again, like it is not engaging the screw inside... Also, when I hit a bump, the left beam bounces. The main housing is secure, just the inner (adjustable) one is not.
View 5 RepliesMy 2006 Prius wouldn't start yesterday. The dash lights blinked on & off and the fob was locked in the dash. About 5 mins. later it came out. I was able to jump start the car with no prob. I drove to the dlr. & they checked the bat. & charging system. They found no problems, but said I might want to R & R the bat. as it's 5 yrs. I want to stick with the stock bat. Aalso stated that the bat. was fully charged & when I went home I plugged in my battery tender. The car was wired for the tender already although I haven't had the need to use it until now.
View 6 RepliesDriving my new to me 2010 Super Duty this morning in the dark and noticed that the mirror controls are not illuminated. Is this normal or are they suppose to have illumination?
View 14 RepliesVehicle: 1983 chevy c10
Here's the problem, when the high beams are on the dash cluster lights work fine,but when I turn the high beams off the dash cluster lights go off.Im going to buy a new high beam switch but what else might cause this problem?The truck has one of those metal button high beam switches that is mounted on the floor.
Lately I've been having issues with my windows, door locks and power mirrors not working. Here are the symptoms;
What works;
Driver window Sunroof Key fob unlock/lock (Also all of the doors unlock when I open the door)
What does NOT work;
All passenger windows (they were working intermittently before but now none of them work) Door locks from any panel (Sometimes I can unlock the doors but can never lock them) Side view mirror controls
Seems like it could be a faulty ecu. Plan on removing the door this weekend to inspect everything.
Parked my Honda Civic (1997 stick shift) in driveway at a slight forward downward slant. Two days later it wouldn't start: dash lights come on, get high pitched noises from engine but no start. Tried for 2 days, same results. Ambient temp is in 60's. Had routine service 2 weeks ago and it was running fine.
Tow truck driver tried it, got same results. Had it towed a mile to mechanic (front end elevated while towing). Mechanic called to say it started on first try for him but seemed to be running rough. He checked it over and now has come up with 2 or 3 things it may be but isn't really sure.
Mechanic Is going to replace the ECP (?) to start with but is going to be going at it one part at a time.
I had just picked my kid up from school, as I turn out of the parking lot my A/C stops blowing cool air, I check the A/C screen and it still says it's set on High with temp at 68. However, it is blowing very low with warm air. Seconds later the dash lights up with numerous warning lights. I'm on the highway and I'm able to gather speed, but each time I do I hear the engine revving like crazy. We only live a few miles from the school so I am able to make it home. Once home, I turn off the car and turn it back on. The only warning lights displayed now are the red triangle and the yellow check engine light. I turn the car off, pop the hood, I check the belt and it was fine. I checked the oil and it seemed fine. I check the coolant overflow and it was empty.
View 15 RepliesWhen I position the switch into 4x4 High or 4x4 Low the dash lights do not come on. Also, I have a vacuum leak at both hubs.
I tested the vacuum lines from the ESOF solenoid (or whatever it's called, the box on the fender where the vacuum lines originate) and I don't have any leaks in the lines. I put the Mighty Vac straight to the back of the hubs and I definitely have leaks at both hubs.
So, why am I not getting the light on the dash, and why do I have leaks at the hubs? FWIW, I replaced both wheel hub assemblies in March, and everything worked fine at that time. I'm hoping the yellow o-rings are still good. Is there a chance I lost torque on the four bolts behind the hubs causing a failed seal? Is there a seal on the outside of the hubs that could've failed?
I have an 2001 F250 SD with 7.3 Diesel. Headlight switch failed and I replaced it. But now I have no high beams and my dash lights that light the dash up don't work. Gauges, fog light, low beams all work fine. Fuses checked. Multi function switch checked. What to do next?
View 1 RepliesTwo Issues....
1.My rear dome lights work when manually turned on. They do not come on when the door is opened. However, the front dome lights do.
2.The lights on my side mirrors turn blink when using the turn signal, and when hitting the lock/unlock/remote start buttons. They do not work when driving around with my head lights on.
Found a simple fix for unlit radio control buttons, cd player opening and center display buttons while the parking/headlight switch is turned on. As it turns out, if the wire connector directly behind the dimmer switch wheel located to the left of the steering wheel is accidentally disconnected, you will not have any backlight for your in dash cd player opening,radio control buttons or your emergency hazard flasher button.
The simple fix is to first remove the left side silver/gray plastic vent cover which is located directly to the left of your dimmer control knob. Place one hand on the top of the vent cover and the second hand at the bottom the vent cover and firmly pull directly out. Second step is to pull towards you the miniature dash panel that the dimmer switch wheel is mounted to.
The arrow tip guide on the miniature dash panel will pull away from 2 guide slots mounted to the main dash panel. Third step is to reconnect the disconnected white male plug to the back of the dimmer switch wheel's female connector. Last step is to push back the miniature dimmer switch wheel's dash panel until it snaps back in place, then snap back in place the silver/gray plastic vent cover until it clicks back in place.
I'm going to need to install a Nokia Bluetooth car kit on my MkVI in the summer at latest and was wondering how to get the radio and AC controls out to do it.
Radio naturally needs to come out to connect the kit to it (or its power cables anyway), but I was thinking of installing the kit's control unit under the AC controls, to the side of the center console on the inside of it.
I guess the control unit's wire would then go into the dash from between the AC control panel and the center console somewhere. That was my plan anyway.
I own a Toyota Venza 2013. I have lost control of my ac system. None of the controls work on the dash. The system works because the ac is running but you cant change any of the settings as well as turn it off. It seems that the panel has lost power.
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