Prius C :: Nav System Is Difficult To Use
Aug 24, 2014
I have a 2013 Prius C 4. If you try to manually enter destination addresses in the system, it's quite quirky and non-intuitive. It can take a number of minutes to enter in an address, and the system will often offer up suggestions about what it thinks you're entering that are incorrect. If you don't enter the fields in a certain order, such as Street number first, then street name, then city, it may not display the right options you need to complete the address.
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I am disappointed by the Gray background and tiny type for street names on the map display. My Garmin handheld is easier to read even though it is a much smaller screen. My LS460 has a easy to read map.
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I have a 2014 Prius C and for the last month or so it's sometimes difficult to shift from P. I always park car with handbrake. It's specially difficult if I push down hand brake before stepping on the brakes and car shifts a little while on park. Car has 35,000km.
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I can hardly hear the bass on my new 2013 Prius 4, which replaced my lease of 2010 Prius 3 with Navi . both had their DSP setting at default balanced position. I thought it was because I got the base trim 4 with no addition, but my friend who just went from 2010 Prius 5 with Navi to 2013 Prius 5 with those whistle and bells felt the same on his new car.
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After replacing at a Toyota dealer in my country the JBL 6CD audio system under warranty (was not responding on the commands from front panel, the unit was faulty), I've found some error codes left in System Check Mode and I don't know what is their meaning. What those codes show, especially 380H error code? Here is how to look ...
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Two weeks ago a large, industrial truck dropped a piece of bent steel pipe on the interstate in front of my 2010, 50k miles, Prius and (sadly) I was forced to hit or swerve into rush hour traffic and cause an accident. It tore up a good part of the cooling system and did some body damage. Of course I didn't know this at the time, but it began to overheat, so I pulled off the freeway and had it towed to a body shop. After about ten days, I got my Prius back.
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I have a 04 W12 that is having trouble recognizing that it is in park. when i shut the car off and go to remove the key it says please place in park. i purchased a known electrical gremlin car so i am chalking it up to that but should probably fix it. it also does not detect the speed the car is traveling so no digital speedo/ accompanying readings. other than that it is pretty solid. haven't noticed any other "glitches" the park problem is new started yesterday. i have had the car for 2+ months and love it. i have been looking for a W12 for some time now. a
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Car is at the stealership right now 74k miles (CPO until 75k). Having issues with cold starts, weather has been getting into the 40's, and when coming out of work in the ramp the car has a very hard time starting (usually taking 3 times to fully turn over). However, in the morning coming out of my heated garage the car starts right up no problems whatsoever.
There are zero codes being thrown, zero lights on the dash. Brought the car in for diagnosis and the dealer has had it now for 2 days - still "unsure of the issue" but they have proposed that it is either a fuel pump (covered by CPO) or Carbon-Build up.
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Had an interesting problem with my 2006 Camry (134k miles - all maintenance up to date). After returning from trip, I went to start my 2006 Camry LE and it turned over but never started. After a couple more tries, I stepped on the accelerator while turning the key and it finally started. It's starting and running fine now but that is the first time that has ever happened. The car sat for 5 days.
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The check engine light is on. Yesterday twice I had the situation where when I turned the key to start. The starter motor was crankin and it was not firing. I pumped the throttle a few times to let air/gas into engine. I also opened the gasoline tank cover (where you insert the nozzle to pump gas) for a few mins and then shut it and started the car. It started. After running for 20 mins it happened again. The starter motor has to crank for some 10 seconds before it fires. Then no issues. What do you think it is??? Battery is fine, starter motor is fine since its cranking away. I am suspecting fuel pump ?
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I am replacing the rear passenger hub assembly and as soon as i put a significant amount of torque to the axle nut...i get a crazy grinding noise and the hub becomes very difficult to turn. When I disassembled the old assembly it took very little effort to push the axle freely in the splines of the hub after i took the 32mm nut off. Now when i start to get the grinding, i remove the axle nut and it take some serious whacks with a larger hammer and brass drift to free the axle spline in the hub.
Ive dug around online and found someone that had to slip a couple pieces of wood in between the sheet metal dust shield and the end of the axle to fully seat it.
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This Buick began stalling, then difficult to start. We have replaced fuel filter, fuel pump and sending unit. It will start sometimes and either run smoothly for a few minutes or run rough stumble and backfire through the throttle body. It has not thrown a code thru any of this. How to proceed?
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I went to check out a TDI. Got there and it had to be jumped (45F) The glow plug harness was bad. but even after we got it started and drove it for several miles to get it to operating temp, it was still difficult to start after shutting it off. Shouldn't it start up easily after being warmed up even if the glow plug harness was bad?
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I'm having an issue with my 08 Accent GS. It is very difficult to start, but only after fueling. Any other time, the car starts without any problems. I have tried to simulate the issue at home by taking off the gas cap and replacing it, but it didn't have the same result.
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2006 Kia Rio LX with 78K miles,
I recently performed several repairs in the car including replacement of the timing belt, all other drive belts (power steering, air conditioning, alternator).
Recently, the car has developed a new problem where it intermittently has been difficult to start, but only after filling up the gas tank. The engine cranks over okay but it seems like it might have vapor lock. It seems to occur every time we fill it up. Rarely, the car has appeared to run rough for a few seconds, the electronic control module seems to make an adjustment and then it runs better. The gas mileage has decreased from typical 28-32 miles a gallon down to 23-25 miles per gallon, despite getting new tires for the car.
Additionally, the check engine light has come on intermittently…once reset it stays off for up to two weeks then will come back intermittently with the following codes:
P0456 which indicates a problem with the fuel evaporation system, which may be related to the gas cap (sometimes when this comes on, the gas cap appears to be loose, but other times it appears to be tight).
P0300 which indicates in engine misfireP0301 which indicates in engine misfire in cylinder #1P0302 which indicates in engine misfire in cylinder #2The first time that I received this warning, I replaced the 4 spark plugs and the check engine light did not come back on for a couple weeks.
I have also previously received a code for faulty oxygen sensor temperature regulation for the forward most oxygen sensor. From what I have read, this may be related to oxygen sensors were related to an exhaust or intake leak. I have attempted to carefully inspect the intake and exhaust systems and I don't find evidence of leak. (From what I have read, a lean fuel condition which may be due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or unmetered air getting past the airflow sensor, or an EGR valve that is stuck open are possible causes.
I have visually inspected the 4 coils/plug wire units and they all appear to be intact and since the engine does not run rough (it idles smoothly, seems to have normal power etc.), I believe that they're all functioning.Any thoughts about what should be my next step to diagnose and to fix this problem?Replace gas cap?Replace oxygen sensors?EGR valve?Could this be related to the timing belt replacement (CEL did come on prior to the repair but gas mileage and problem starting after fill-up has started after the change)? Carbon canister or solenoid valve for evap emissions needs replacement?(I have never been in the habit of "topping off the tank").
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I am looking at a used 2003 X with a 140k miles. The truck is very clean and seems mechanically sound. This will be my third X! The only problem I found is the trans selector is difficult to move. Once driving the trans seems fine. No leaks anywhere. I believe this is cable actuated? Is this something minor or should I run away?
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My 2004 Explorer XLT 4.6L V8 AT is very difficult to shift out of park. Sometimes I have to push very hard on the brake in order to get the transmission selector out of park. Other times it is no problem.
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I just bought a used 98 chevy metro. I drove it over a total of 30 miles on test drives. Every thing was as it should be. Now it dies at idle and is difficult to restart. I have to wait til it cools down completely to get it to fire again.
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I have a 2006 Mustang (manual 5 speed) that recently has been having a problem getting into 1st gear
Symptoms:1. When the engine is cold, there is no issue getting the car into gear2. Once it warms up (after approx. 20 miles or 30 minutes driving), it is very difficult to get into 1st gear. I have to put it in 2nd then get it to slip into 1st.3. On hot days the problem starts sooner and is hard to get into the other gears4. when the car has warmed up on a cool day. I can get the car into the other gears (2nd, etc) when standing still, but first is almost impossible
Originally the problem showed up when my wife drove the car, but it is getting worse. Why the engine and/or outside temperature would affect how my I can get my car into gear?
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Just picked up a used 2009 RX350 and noticed the low beam light output is terrible. Very difficult to see, especially when turning corners. Also have a bit of fogging of the headlight assembly covers which I assume can be cleaned up. What is the easiest way to increase light output?
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Here is what I have:
2009 Santa Fe 3.3L AWD
70k KMs / 43k Miles
Temp has been very cold, -20C / -4 F
Car starts up without any problems. Try to put car in Reverse and the shifter is very hard to move, if it moves at all. When I am able to get it into Reverse, I then try to put it in Drive and it does not "engage" the "D" and the car behaves like its in Neutral. Moving the shifter back to Park, Neutral, Drive is very difficult and sometimes it will not go into Park. The dash lights do not illuminate the selected P, R, N, D.
However, once the car is warmed up (no longer on C on the temperature gauge) I can with a little effort move the shifter freely (but more effort than it should take) and the car behaves normally. Gear shifts are smooth and in general it is operating normally.
The dash lights do illuminate the selected P, R, N, D. I've checked the Trans fluid level and it appears to be normal and was planning to change it this w-e but I'm no longer sure it will work. Even if it has never been changed.
Also note that I have recently changed a wheel/hub bearing due to a noise that sounds a lot like loud tires on a highway. The bearing change did not eliminate the noise and I assumed that I've changed the wrong one. The noise does not appear to be coming from the Trans, but I cant be 100% sure. The noise is speed related and occurs only after about 20KM/h 16MPH. Unsure if they are related..
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