I just got a new 2016 Prius c 4, and I love it so far! This is also the first car I've owned under my own name, as I've mostly lived near public transportation and borrowed cars up until now. In other words, I'm a bit of newbie when it comes to the Prius and cars in general...
View 2 RepliesTook a little trip today in our 01 v10 2wd. Spent about 45 minutes on the interstate. At 1 point I had kicked it down out of od to get out around a slow semi. The trans seamed to upshift real hard. I thought it was odd but didnt give it much more thought. After getting off the interstate we traveled on divided 4 lane highway. Every time we pulled off from a stop the trans would upshift hard from 1-2 and 2-3, rest of the shifts felt fine. We stopped (shut off and went inside) to pick up lunch and the hard shift was really worrying me.
After our stop we continued on with the trip. The trans shifted flawlessly the rest of the day. OD light didn't flash and MIL did not come on. Bought in February with 168k, now has 169k. Did all services including trans flush with Merc 5 fluid when I got it. I know you cant fix what isn't broke but if I can do some thing now before it poops out all together I want to try. Not towing, just passengers...
I drive a 2002 Honda Civic 4 door DX.
In 2011 at intersections, the car unpredictably shut off completely and then restarted ten minutes later - this happened twice, spaced two weeks apart.
I took the car to two mechanics, one a Honda, where they simulated driving and performed diagnostic tests but could find nothing wrong.
I Googled the Internet in search of an answer and ran across a fellow who had experienced a similar shutdown with his car and resolved it by purchasing a new ignition switch. So I tried that. Everything was fine until two weeks when I stopped at an intersection and the car shut down again - the dashboard lights stayed on. A police officer nearby push the car to the side of the road and we then pushed the car back and forth a bit. About ten minutes later, the car started up again as if nothing had happened and everything was OK.
I again took my car to the Honda dealer, but they could find nothing wrong, including driving the car around the neighborhood.
I am a total loss as to what do to. I am reluctant to junk this car because everything else is A-OK. The car drives fine and I love it because it is manual with minimum digital stuff including manual windows. But I cannot afford to drive this car when there is the chance of another unpredictable shutdown.
I got my wife a Prius C3 last week. We are trying to figure out why the trip summary screen only comes up sometimes when we shut the car off? Can't seem to find the right combo to get it to come up all the time. I have a 2012 Prius 3 and the screen always comes up when I shut the car off. We have looked in the owners manual with no luck and our dealer knows nothing about the C's.
View 7 RepliesThe Problem : The short version of the problem is that, as the description says, the ABS and Brake dash lights will come on for awhile, but then shut off, either why driving or the next time I start my car. The brake fluid level and color seems fine, and I checked the hidden service menu from the control screen, and the computer is not reporting any error codes (though I have not hooked it up to any formal error code reading device).
Problem History : The first I saw this problem was about 4 weeks ago just after I got an oil change at a local Toyota Service Center. They warned me that the lights were on and I should get them looked at (though I had never had an issue with them before). when I started my car after, they were on, but then shut off after about 30 seconds. I did not see them again for a few days, so I assumed it was just something got bumped or whatnot, and was not worried. Later I randomly started my car one morning and they were back on, this time they stayed on for a few minutes before shutting off. It continued to do this randomly, but I never felt any issue with brakes, nor noticed any other problems with the operation.
The first time I saw it come on why driving, was when I was pulling over to the side of the road, and hit a puddle that was deeper than I thought and jerked the shocks a lot. After this the problem started to be more frequent, most noticeably if I park on a hill with the e-brake on.
My Thoughts : I called my Service center, and they wanted 100 bucks for the inspection, and then most likely another couple hundred for the repair. I am not inclined to just dump my money into this without looking it up first, and what I have seen online is that similar cases on other cars have been a faulty abs sensor or some kind of particle in the fluid line. Since I am not seeing any error messages from the computer, nor are the lights consistently on, I am thinking of getting my brakes flushed.
Is there anything I should know about flushing the brake fluid, or should I really take it to a service center. They are asking 130 (plus mostly likely an extra 20 bucks b/c this place always finds little things to tack on) to change the fluid.
I'm facing a new problem with my 2010 prius, I daily go to work and park my car in sun for 8 hours, when I turn on the car to go back home I feel a laggy response from the engine (the engine responds after 1-2 seconds from pressing the pedal) especially when pressing the gas pedal and reach the power mode area, after 10-15 minutes of driving the problem disappears and the drive gets more smooth.
View 5 RepliesI can change my nav system radio for just a radio? I am not smart enough to make the nav work and the light from the backup camera wipes out my night vision.
View 2 RepliesScreen go black, radio shut off, then reset itself while driving over and over again. Have the car parked and radio stays on after you pull the key and set the alarm. And the final piece, the alarm goes off three times no lights flashing then stops sitting in a garage, not outside. Is this a short ? I have two brand new batteries, new starter new altenator.
View 8 RepliesWhen my car is idling(usually with the A/C on) my car seems to shut off randomly. There is a hissing noise that comes right below the cluster or by the ignition. Stepping on the gas will make the noise go away but will come back when idling. There has been times when I have turned off my car by just rolling down the windows. Usually when I lock the car with the remote, the horn sounds really low and weak. There are also times when my passenger door does not unlock with the key remote.
I have no aftermarket electronics installed in my car but just a usp test pipe. I have scanned for codes and this is what I got:
P0430-Catalytic Converter System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
P0420-Catalytic Converter System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
I am assuming these codes have nothing to do with the type of short I have but the usp I have installed.
Here is a video: [URL] ....
I DID NOT turn off the car. It shut off by itself.
Ok, so every now and then when I turn my car on it will feel as though it's not getting enough power, and will make a sound like "prum prum prum prum", and then if I touch the gas it will choke and shut off. If I try starting it again it won't even start, I'd have to wait 3-8 minutes or so and try starting it and when it does start, I give it some gas, rev it to maybe 3-4k rpm, and it will be A-OK and drive with no problems. Now this doesnt happen every day. I may use my car 4-6 times in one day and it will start no problem. The next day I try using it, it will do "its thing" and will not start.
Now, when it does "its thing" my ESP light or traction control light goes off and the light stays until I start it again but even if I try turning it off with the ESP switch it doesn't work. I'm guessing the problem could be either the fuel pump, fuel filter, or alternator but I'm not exactly a mechanic, nor do I know a load about cars either.
Finally got the codes all 9 of them :
p0491
p0492
p2401
p0057
p0037
p0031
p0051
p0141
p0161
My car sometimes at a stop sign may randomly shut off. I try to turn the car back on and it cranks longer than usual. Then it will turn on and my epc light will turn on. And my rpms would stay at about 10k to 11k. What's going on here? Only CEL light I have on is maf sensor and i have a bad abs module.
View 10 RepliesIts a 1998 chrysler sebring jxi. 2.5 V6... It runs fine then randomly shuts off all electrical parts stay on i have to pull over or if it turns off at a red light let it sit for a while because i immediately get the "no bus" code. i have to let it sit with the car on but not trying to crank until the code goes away then it cranks again. sometimes i have to repeat that process a few times, sometimes just once. at times the code only last a couple minutes but sometimes over 10!
View 10 RepliesMy mother has a 2012 sonata. She told me that her drl will shut off when she turns her headlights on. Is this normal or is something maybe wrong. She also mentioned that they will sometimes shut off at random while driving.
View 8 RepliesMy 2012 Maxima has a combined heated/cooled driver's seat. In the heat function the heater will randomly shut off. If I shut the car off and then restart the car the heater function will resume. It happens inconsistently and I've not been able to establish a known pattern to predict the behavior. In February 2014 (under warranty) I had the switch, the heater module processor and heater replaced. In February of 2015 the problem reoccurred.
View 4 RepliesI believe this fuse has to do with radio and convenience options? 2004 mk4 GLI 1.8t. A few weeks back, the fused popped. I replaced it, and drove fine for a few more weeks. Shut off randomly, so I put a fuse in, try to start, it cranks like usual, but doesnt start. Tried with several different 20a fuses. It pops all of them the second I crank the car. Obviously there is a short somewhere. Where? Or know where fuse 37 goes?
View 2 RepliesToday as I was driving on the freeway my radio randomly shut down and turned back on. it was a complete power down as if I was turning the car on. I believe I seen the dash also do a system check. I also think I felt the power steering turn on and off for a split second. very odd. I almost feel the entire car shut down for a split second.
View 14 Replies2003 6.0. Really, really hard or no start in winter. Started it up today and it misses until warmed up. That sounds like injectors.
The next issue is it stalls randomly they say. I tested FICM with a volt meter and it's constantly just a hair above 48 volts. Key on, cranking, running, doesn't matter. It's a 7 screw FICM in an 03 so I'm guessing it's been replaced. It also has 3 zip ties around the back half of the FICM. I'm not sure if it's holding the FICM in place, or holding a connector on the back.
Today after testing the FICM and starting it, and getting it warmed up, we let it idle around 30 minutes. It stalled like the key was shut off. When this happened, it would not restart for about 1 hour. It would crank and spin over fine, but you could tell it was just the engine spinning over and the injectors were not trying to fire. When it finally did start an hour later, it took some cranking and you could hear it trying to fire like the HPOP was empty and building up pressure before it lit off.
No CEL and oil pressure gauge on dash moved up to the middle while cranking. I'll put the scanner on it next time I'm there and watch live data during the no start condition. What all to monitor while cranking or where to look in case this isn't an unheard of 6.0 issue.
I have a 2010 Elantra where the rear driver door randomly won't shut. The lock intermittently won't engage and the door just swings back at you. Happened twice and I just thought nothing of it and played around until it closed. I was at my dealership (for another problem) and I opened that door to get something out of the backseat and the door just swung back at me when I shut it. They kept the car and lubed it up and said it was working fine. 2 weeks later it happened again when I was running errands and it took me half an hour to get it to close again.
This particular thing apparently isn't covered under warranty so my solution was don't open the door. Now my trunk is doing it too! The trunk has always sporadically opened on its own every now and then and I always thought maybe I was pushing the button on the transmitter... Nope! My car went back to the dealership for the trunk and the door. They got my trunk to close by "fiddling around" and couldn't recreate the door not closing and both APPEARED to be working fine. The next day the trunk wouldn't close again. I got it to close by playing around with the lock and the transmitter. It opened again while I was driving.
I have an 05 escape xls 4cyl that has started acting up in the past 2 weeks. The vehicle has 52k on the clock and has no other issues but what im posting about.
Heres the problem: Vehicle starts fine every time you turn the key. It does not stall or idle rough when engaging the trans mission so I've concluded it has nothing to do with the torque converter. Once the car is running the vehicle will shut off randomly with the THEFT light coming on. I played with it for about 2 hours and have found that it will do this idling in Park, while in Reverse, and while in drive. The vehicle also will shut off while I am going down the road and every time it does the THEFT light is coming on as the problem starts. It does appear that it only happens when the accelerator is not depressed and will sometimes stay running if you hit the Gas Pedal as soon as it starts to happen.
I have tried using another key figuring maybe a transponder is bad...No dice does the exact same thing. I have also noted that i do hear single quiet (tock) when the vehicle shuts off coming from the drivers side lower engine compartment.
A Little Background, my FICM wasn't bad per se but it would dip below 45 volts when the outside temp was around freezing. I pulled it and sent it for repair at the same time the Atlas 40 tune was loaded into the FICM.
First few days of driving mileage was better, truck ran great. All of a sudden one day pulling into the driveway it randomly shutoff. Two occasions since it has acted goofy at started, bucking a little a low throttle. Mileage has returned to how it was before I had the FICM fixed and ATLAS tune applied. To this point I had no codes at all.
Now today it randomly throws P0341 - Camshaft sensor out of range.
So heres the question - do I replace the sensor or try to get at the harness for inspection? Out of range would usually mean the sensor itself is failing while open circuit is usually wiring related. I know its uncommon for this particular sensor to fail but i'm not sure which direction to go.
So I'll be driving down the road and the gauges will randomly start jumping around then the truck will just shut off, this just started a couple days ago, it seems to be gaining in frequency, when i try and restart the engine all my warning lights flash on and nothing happens, try again and it starts back up, now the last time it happened all of the above happened but it was followed by a fast clicking noise from under the steering column, it has to be a electrical issue as i have full tanks and motor is in tip top shape. Also no codes pop up with my code reader.
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