Prius C :: MPG Is No Longer Being Calculated - Stuck On 44.5
Dec 25, 2014
I just noticed a few days ago that my 2014 Prius C is no longer calculating my MPG. It is stuck on 44.5mpg even when I first turn my car on. It never changes.
View 8 RepliesI just noticed a few days ago that my 2014 Prius C is no longer calculating my MPG. It is stuck on 44.5mpg even when I first turn my car on. It never changes.
View 8 Replies I drive a 2003 Passat (B5.5) 1.6 petrol (102HP)
I noticed the problem now, because I wanted to test the electric cooling fan (part 8D0 959 455 R). I want to test it because I have changed the carbon brushes that was worn out in the motor. The fan is now reinstalled in the car and just waiting for some voltage through the standard wire harness. To make this fan spin I figured I could just activate the A/C compressor by setting the Climatronic in "LO" (no ECON). Because it is below freezing outside, I drove my car inside a heated parking garage and let it stay there for an hour or two. For some reason the A/C compressor does not start when I go "LO", even if the car is warm and placed in a warm environment. I noticed that the outside air temperature indicator in the instrument panel and on Climatronic LCD-display showed -3 'Celcius (Just below 32 'F).
After some internet searching I thought that one or both of the air temperature sensors (G17 and G89) were at fault. However, they both seem to be ok. (I even measured the resistance of the ambient temperature sensor, G17, with a DMM and it had the correct value of 1.25 kohm @ 20 'Celcius and 3.8 kohms @ -3.5 'C). In VAG-COM, I read the relevant measuring blocks (08-Auto HVAC, Group 6) for the sensors, and they both show plausible temperatures. See enclosed VAG-COM screenshot. The calculated temperature however (as shown on the cars instrument and Climatronic displays) is way low. A couple of times, calculated temperature has been exactly 10,0 'C. This temperature is identical to the substitute value in case of double sensor signal failure (according to VAG Self Study Program 208 part II, page 48)
The calculated temp looks correct around freezing point (0'C/32'F) and colder, but never catches up when the car is taken to the warm garage. I even logged the relevant temp info in VAG-COM when I was driving in and out of the warm garage. See enclosed chart screenshot from MS Excel.
I have tried to disconnect the battery for 15-20 minutes, but that did not fix the problem. Is it possible that the circuits that calculate the outside temperature get different sensor temperature values than the OBD system gets and shows me through VAG-COM? When the temperature problem is solved, I can continue to check if my electric cooling fan works...
I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent. The press button inside the car no longer works so the A/C has been stuck ON for some time now. I don't live in a hot area so going without A/C wouldn't bother me too much. Is there an easy (read cheap) way to simply turn off the A/C from under the hood? My brother says he wants to remove the A/C belt but his knowledge of cars is often dicey. Might fix the problem, might blow up the car.
View 8 Replies02 Ranger 2.3 4cyl 5 spd 115K.... My A/C seems to take longer and longer to start cooling/ When it does start cooling it seems that is is actually colder than it has ever been (original owner) and the control is more sensitive to the touch when moved. Being a 4 cyl it's easy to detect when the compressor kicks in and it seems each time it is taking longer to do so. If I stop the motor, it goes thru the same cycle of time or longer before cooling (compressor kicking in) again. No codes, No unusual noises.
View 5 RepliesI recently bought the car in to have the transmission fluid and spark plugs changed; it was in the garage for almost 2 weeks as I wasn't able to go in and pick it up. It was a local but trusted garage, not a dealer. Since I've had it back, when I power up the car, the ICE takes a noticeably longer time to switch on. It used to come on before I'd put it into gear, not it doesn't come on until I get into P or R, or at least just before sometimes. I suspect is has something to do with the 12v battery, which I've had no noticeable problems with yet.
View 19 RepliesA couple of weeks ago my amp went out and it was replaced. I didn't use the USB port previously b/c my MP3 player is old and wouldn't connect. However after having the amp replaced it dawned on me I could use my phone (motorola cliq) to play music with the USB. It worked for a couple of days and then nothing. The tab on the mode options for the USB would no longer light up. I can still play music from my phones SD card via the aux and via bluetooth, but not the USB. Took the car back in and two days later they are telling me its my phone. Maybe, but considering it worked prior and nothing has changed on my phone I am at a loss.
Today, they called to tell me they were able to hook it up to a ipod and everything worked great! Mine DID work, so what changed? They suggested I use a stick/thumb drive. Went and bought one, loaded one album onto it and it won't work either. The USB tab won't even light up for me to choose it as an option. I do NOT want to go by a ipod when I have a perfectly great 16 g sd card in my phone that DID work! But I also want to use my touch screen to choose songs and go through my music files without having to use my phone while driving. The USB port is recognizing my phone as it charges it while plugged in. I have tried setting the phone to SD card on, and then off (charge only setting). Nothing causes that USB tab to light up and give me a choice to see whats going on.
Just recently I"ve noticed my Pri-v is taking longer, and not as often switching to EV. All these observations are after the car has been fully warmed up and driven for several miles with a sufficient battery charge. Previously it would always switch to EV at 43mph when letting off the accelerator.......and I could keep it going usually till about 45.... A quick let of the accelerator would almost always accomplish this. Recently it has not been consistent...a few times not even shutting off when the car is stopped. The car has about 88,000 on the odometer. I've always noticed when it does go from ICE to EV, the transition is not a smooth too. That I"m guessing is the transmission fluid?
View 9 RepliesYesterday, I took my Prius to a parking lot. I normally just give them my entire key fob, however because the guy said he might be leaving early - he had me take the emergency key and he placed the smart key part under the mat so I could unlock the car.
However, now when I walk up to my car, it no longer automatically opens. And when I just to start my car without the key in the holder, it doesn't.
Did he do something funny? Do I need to reset anything? Do I need to yell at the valet guy?!
When I lock or unlock my Prius C with the handle or the key, it used to beep, now it no longer will beep, I've checked the doors and hood to make sure they are all shut and it will still not beep.
View 11 RepliesI had my car serviced a few weeks ago and realized that one of my Smart Keys (the one I was using when I drove to the dealership) no longer works with the car. It won't unlock the doors or start the car (neither wirelessly nor when plugged in to the dash). The other fob works fine. Are there any scenarios where a Smart Key fob gets rejected from the system?
View 5 RepliesMy prius 2010 II is giving bad mileage. I am getting 16.5 to 17 km/l. when I bought it (6 months ago) it was giving me about 22 to 25 km/l. And now it, not showing me the bar graphs , and green leaf car graph, which it was showing me when i bought it. I checked the battery by vehicle signal check . It gave me around 12.3v in the morning , after leaving off for a full night.
View 19 RepliesThe DC Power/cigarette lighter no longer works. When I plug in a phone charger it lights up for a split second then goes out. This leads me to believe it is not a fuse because I don't think it would get any power at all...but I'm not sure and I don't even know where to look for the fuse to check it.
View 3 RepliesMy 2005 Prius is 6 and a half years old and I have encountered a problem with an outside alarm that is one beep about 2 seconds long. I have checked my manual and I have found two possibilities, but, they don't seem to apply. Last week was the first time I had to go in and reset my maintenance needed reminder because my service station forgot to reset it after the last oil change. I am afraid in the severel attempts to do this I might have reset something else as well!
The outside 2 second beep occurs when the car is in my garage and the car is NOT locked. It also only occurs if I am outside of the car and have the key fob with me. It happens with either key fob near the car. If I lock the car I don't have a problem. It is as if everytime I come near the car with my key fob that it is reminding me that the car is unlocked.
Taking longer and longer for key fob to open doors, etc. Assume the battery needs to be changed. Have no problem with other fob. How do you change the battery in the key fob for this year model.
View 13 RepliesHard to put it all in a title. I have 149K miles on our 2009. The warranty expires in 1000 miles. I've noticed recently that I can no longer engage the ev mode with the ev mod. I always get a "cannot change into eve mode" message on the MFD. It used to be that I could do it before the engine started or after all warm up cycles were complete.
Now, when first powering on, ev mode won't engage before engine start and there is no MFD message. After warm up is complete, the message appears on the MFD whenever I try to change to EV mode.
I had four tires replaced and my oil changed on my 2007 Prius. When I picked up my car, it no longer recognized the signal from my key. I could enter the car by pushing the unlock button and drive it by putting the key in the slot, but it won't work remotely. My second key also doesn't work. The tire shop insists this has nothing to do with the service they provided. I disagree and expect them to pay for the dealer to reset the signal. How this could happen? The key has been working fine before the tire replacement and oil change.
View 5 RepliesI recently had the computer upgrade recall done and I noticed I no longer get the low fuel chime and flashing last bar on the fuel gauge.
One of the writers at our dealer said it can't be the software but instead it's the fuel gauge sender.
I don't agree because the gauge seems to be working fine otherwise.
Is it software or hardware? Low Fuel Warning Failure after Reflash?
The Navigation touch screen does not work. I can still us controls on the steering wheel, bu the touch screen is dead. I am assuming that I just buy and install a new screen? Or could there be something else to trouble shoot?
View 6 RepliesSecond dead battery in 2 years. ??? Car never sits for longer than 12 hours and no internal lights on. I have a III with Sunroof.
View 14 RepliesI brought my 2012 Prius in on St. Patrick's Day for routine scheduled maintenance and was informed about the recall--I hadn't even known yet. I was told it would just take an additional 45 minutes for the software update--no big deal. Except that it was.
They said the computer that was hooked up to my car crashed during the update, and my car computer would no longer recognize the hybrid system. They had no explanation for the crash and said their computer had a full battery, etc. so it didn't make sense, but they would call Toyota to find out way to do and in the meanwhile I would have a rental.
It is April 7 and I still have the rental. They said the part needed, a new computer, is on backorder. They hope it will be in by the end of April but there are no guarantees.
So my auxiliary battery started dying and I had to jump start it when it was dead. One dark morning I reversed the cables on my wife's car when jumping it. The portion on the Prius that I had hooked up the cables to started glowing. I unhooked them, and when I got inside my car I noticed several warning lights on (ABS, etc). Once I got the car started I drove to work, but the brakes were no longer working correctly, and if I hit them hard they would lock up and I would skid, with tons of white smoke from the tires. I took the car to Toyota, but they wanted $550 to replace the auxiliary battery and run a diagnosis. They said they could not run any computer tests as the car's auxiliary batter was too low.
So I ordered the battery. In the meantime, the brakes wore down to metal on metal on the front driver's side. I took the car to Firestone and they wanted $850 to replace the pad, rotor, and caliber, which they said was stuck. I then put the new auxiliary battery in the car myself (it was relatively easy) and took it to Toyota. They said the ABS relay needed to be replaced. After waiting two days for the part to come in, I then get informed that the skid control ECU needs to be replaced, at which point they will "recheck as necessary with diagnosis." After doing some googling, there is some indication that the problem might not be the skid control ECU.