Prius C :: Ignition Key Turned Off Before Shifting From Drive Back To Park?
Jan 6, 2013
Early senility or perhaps just a busy mind has led me to turn off the ignition key before shifting from drive back to park. This is obviously not natural for the car but it did not seem to do any harm. I am wondering however if it can be damaged by this?
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Recently I've noticed that every time when shifting from park to drive and occasionally from reverse to drive in my 05 Golf GLS, I would have to remain off the gas for 3-4 seconds otherwise the car would jerk forward. If I press on the gas ever so slightly, the rpm would go up to around 1000 then jerk. Why this is happening?
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Is it bad shifting from drive to neutral then back to drive going 40mph without pressing on the gas only coasting on a daily bases?
2008 Sonata GLS ... Automatic transmission ...
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My car is having delayed shifting (2.0t Auto) when shifting from Park to Drive. Also, whenever im slowing down to turn right or left, and press the gas, it seems to lurch forwars, as it is still downshifting, which seems to be really delayed. Im hoping its the Valve Body since its covered under extended warranty until October, and want to get this taken care of before I trade this piece of crap in for a Ford or Honda. Its in the shop (won't let VW touch it since the dealer screwed up several times), and was wondering if this sounds like an issue of the Valve Body...
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I have a 2011 corolla S. sometimes when i shift from park to drive, it shifts smoothly and easily. most of the time when I am shifting from park to drive, it isn't smooth and doesn't shift easy. You can hear when you move it from park.
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2002 Camry, Automatic Transmission
Have an occasional problem. When shifting from park to drive/reverse, I occasionally get a loud, brief (1 -2 seconds) rattling noise from the engine compartment. It's my daughter's car so not sure yet if this is a cold start only issue or if present after car has been driven, then stopped and re-started. The problem does only occur occasionally. Where to start troubleshooting? I've looked for loose external pasts with nothing found.
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2009 Sonata, 4 Cylinder, Auto. 80K mileage, runs well.
I have noticed intermittently that when shifting either out of park to drive, or drive to park that the starter begins grinding as if it is being engaged. The last few times I have jiggled the key and this stopped it.
Googled and found some folks saying it might be the ignition switch selector but am really unsure right now.
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I have an '03 sport trac with 146k miles on it. Truck is in good shape for the most part, it has been very well kept before i got it. In the last few months i have had the flow master exhaust put in and the k&n intake. I had the vacuum leak problem with the hole in the elbow, which was fixed and discovered after replacing the IAC.
I have had a problem with the vehicle almost but not quite stalling when shifting from drive to park. The first thing i did was check for vac leaks, found none. I did not replace the IAC again only because it is only a few months old. I also replaced the MAF, which did not work either, I was still almost stalling going from D to P. The vehicle shut off while in the drive through at McDonald yesterday. It restarted roughly and i managed to get it to a safe spot. I lifted the hood and felt the radiator main hose was solid feeling, so i drove home and replaced the thermostat. In the process i got coolant all over everything.
The problem I am having now is the truck is just cutting off, both at idle and while driving down the road. It starts right back up and away i go. It is random, the truck is running a ok with no signs of any trouble then the next second it shuts off.
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My wife's 2001 Gran Prix has a problem with the ignition switch, or related to the ignition switch. Intermittently (more frequently in warm weather or when the car's warm) the ignition switch can't be turned back to the 'off' position all the way, meaning the key can't be removed from the switch. We've heard from several mechanics that there are a couple problems that can cause this, and in fact had the ignition switch replaced which did not solve the problem. I understand there is a connection to the transmission or gear shift lever that may also be part of this problem in some way. There can only be so many solenoids, switches, connections, etc, related to this, I'd like to fix the problem and avoid spending money unnecessarily.
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Since we purchased the car we've been having problems with the transmission or acceleration, when the car is shifting from park to drive engine speed RPM goes up and it is difficult to stop the car from driving. The dealer does not know what to do and the factory support is useless.
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"95, 2.3L, automatic. Stalls for a couple of seconds and nearly dies when shifting from drive to neutral or from drive to park. Doesn't do it when cold at high idle or when AC is on. It catches back up and idles fine but nearly dies when coming out of drive. Installed a new idle air control valve but no change.
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Got a late 2004 6.0 that runs excellent. When it is cold (as in not running for half a day, not ambient temp) it dies as if the ignition gets turned off. You can start it right back up no problem. It has been slowly getting worse. You maybe have to start it back up 5-10 times before you can get going in the morning. Also you can hear a random click with ignition just in on position as if there is a connection issue in the dash and cuts ign in and out that I think may be the problem.
I swapped all the relays to different spots to try them. I don't think it's wiring because it does it when cold then works when warm. Guy thinks plugging truck block heater so maybe it work better somewhat. New CMP, CKP, FICM, and it doesn't make a diff. So it's baffling to me. It's obviously electrical and works better when truck is warmed.
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It's a 1999 Toyota Celica GT 2.2L, about 190000 miles and I just replaced the transmission not too long ago. Here's what happened, I was sitting a light, the light turned green, and I pushed the gas and the car stalled. I put it in park, tried to turn it on, and it won't start, but is still turning over, making an awful whining noise. Not the transmission. Battery is good, windows, stereo, etc still work. Terminals are good. Everything is still connected, I just changed my oil about 1000 miles ago, still has oil. Has transmission fluid, actually has all it's fluids, no leaks. No check engine light or any other lights. She did not overheat, if anything was colder than usual, No water in my motor, everything LOOKS good, and I take good care of my car, so I'm really baffled. I just spent my savings on the transmission, I'm not a mechanic, I'm just learning to do things on my own.
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I have had my car for a few months now and over the last week or two I have noticed a sound coming from the rear. It happens when the car is shifted from park to drive, as well as the car lowering an inch. Is there something wrong with the car or is this normal?
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My 2000 Civic DX has approx. 55K miles on it. For the past several weeks, the Automatic transmission gear is resisting/sticking about half the time when shifting from Drive to Park and vice versa. (In November 2010 I had a local mechanic-- whom I found on Yelp and who has done other work including replacing the timing belt--replace the ATF, telling him he had to use Honda fluid). What is causing the sticking?
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I have spilt some coke into my shifter and it dried. Now when I shift to Drive or back to Park it makes this crackling sound and sometimes gets stuck. How to take the P-R-N-D-S cover off so I can clean?
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This weekend I stopped my car, put it in park and turned it off (or so I thought). I was in a hurry so I didn't really look at the dash, I just left. When I returned to my car a few minutes later, it was still on. The dash was all lit up, the running lights were on, the stereo was searching for my phone, etc.
I put the key back in, turned it on and turned it to off position and the car shut off.
I'm going to speak to the mechanic when I take it in for an oil change next week, but it's a little worrisome.
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I noticed one of the adjustments for the Carista 3.0 is to Open vents to outside air when ignition is turned off. The factory default was set to *Yes*. I changed it to No because I was thinking when it's really warm outside (I live in warmer part of silicon valley) and you crank up the A/C and then park outdoors, opening the vents to the outside will warm the car faster. Don't know whether my assumption is correct or not?
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I've got my used 2010 Prius 2 weeks a go. I have the following strange observation.
1 - Parked my car with parking brakes
2 - Some time after, I get back into the car, release the parking brake and drives off. I notice that ICE come on IN THE PARKING LOT, when I have my battery one bar from full. My understanding is the ICE should never come on to charge the battery. it is such a waste of gas. I'm in ECO mode, BTW.
3 - I press the gas more when I get out of the parking lot. When I hit the red light and stopped shortly after, I see the ICE is shut, which is normal.
I cannot explain what I see in 2), and this keeps happening every time. Is this a cause of concern?
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I have had my 2010 Prius since August 2009, and have never experienced this til now.
I had pulled into my driveway and was talking on the phone using my factory-installed bluetooth speakerphone. When I power the Prius off while doing this, the call is in limbo for like 30 seconds before my phone's internal speaker picks it back up, so I put the car in Park and sat there talking.
I talked for about 10 minutes. Suddenly, the car started creeping forward and I hit the brake pedal. The car had shifted from Park to Drive.
No harm was done, but from now on I'm going to engage the emergency brake too.
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My Prius has been jolting when the ICE is on and going from drive to park. It almost seems like the ICE is trying to turn off but does not and it jolts the car as a result.
Is this normal? It also jolts sometimes when the ICE is on and when going from park to drive. The ICE remains on although it almost "jumps" or "jolts." I have not noticed it before, and it only happened intermittently at first, although now it does it most of the time. It does not really have a noise associated although it is mostly a "jump" by the car.
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