But I've noticed my cars ICE runs a lot more when parked now the temperatures are reaching 100 degrees. I would think with the engine and coolant warm it wouldn't. Even without using the AC, or set at the lowest fan speed with a high temp like 78 deg., and the battery with half or more charge.
View 9 RepliesSo I did a couple searches and found a couple MK3's with this issue however I did not find anything for the MK4.
The last couple days, we have been over 90 degrees in the afternoon. My black 03 20th 1.8t sits on the side of the road at work in the direct sun from 12:30 (lunch) until 5pm when I get off.
The last 2 days, when I have gone to start it, it cranks and cranks for 5-8 seconds before it starts to catch and finally stumbles to life. Once its running, everything feels fine. If I turn the car off and restart it, it starts fine.
In the mornings in the garage, evenings when its cooler or leaving for lunch before the day has gotten really hot, it starts fine. It only seems to be affected after sitting in the direct afternoon heat for a few hours.
I have read vapor lock, dying crank position sensor, ignition issues, starter etc. I am going to rule out the starter as the car cranks like normal. It simply does not fire.
What is your general mpg loss in very hot weather with air running? Any tips re air conditioning use?
View 8 Replies2002 S-10 2.2L ... Started noticing my temp gauge running around 170 degrees as it gets cooler outside. I changed the thermostat and noticed that the connector to the temp sensor was cracked, changed that too. Had to warranty replace the temp sensor because the first one didn't register on my dashboard gauge. Still didn't get heat above 150 degrees.
Warranty replace the new thermostat and still not getting heat above 150 degrees. Radiator cap test bad at 15psi, replaced radiator cap and still not getting heat above 150 degrees. The engine is running cool and the cabin heat is not as hot as it has been for the last 5 yrs. There are no engine codes stored, anti-freeze leaks and level is correct.
I'm lost as to why all the sudden the truck starts running cold and won't build heat.
I recently got a coolant flush done at the local vw dealer. The engine now runs hot at 200 degrees whereas it was just 160 degrees before. Is this normal for hot weather. Not sure if this is a mistake on the part of the dealer or something conked out opportunistically. A vag com scan shows everything normal. The car has 75 k miles and no other major issues.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1992 Chevy 1500 5.7L V8 with 167,000 miles that is running hot. When I drive the vehicle the temperature quickly rises to just about 250 degrees and hovers just under the "red" zone. It never fully overheats, even on longer drives (50+ miles). It seem to run just fine otherwise. It is not leaking coolant and I have not had to fill the radiator. My first thought was that the thermostat was bad, but wouldn't that be an "all or nothing" issue? Where should I start looking for the problem? It has been going on for about 3 weeks, and I want to get it resolved quickly.
View 10 RepliesI got into a situation on the expressway last night where I had to floor it from a dead stop and keep it floored. I was reaching about 70 MPH when I heard a faint "pop". The exclamation point came on, the check engine light came on and the car immediately started slowing down. I switched to the screen where it shows if the motor is running and it wasn't. I thought I blew the engine. I got to an exit on battery only and shut it down. Opened the hood and couldn't see anything out of the ordinary and no oil under the car either. Also checked the oil and it was fine.
I got back in, tried it and the motor started but the exclamation point and check engine light are still on. Now I'm scared of it.
It's got 110,000 miles on it and bought it used.
Several times my 6 month old Prius v Three refuses to start. I've taken it to the dealer 5 times now for an array of electrical issues. I was told the keyfob wireless signal isn't reaching the Power pushbutton on the dashboard & to not ever put the keyfob near my cell phone & to put the keyfob as close to the Power pushbutton as possible.
View 1 RepliesJust bought my 2004 Jetta GLS from a dealership last week. 2.0 Engine. Has 140K miles on it. 2 hour drive from the dealership to home was cold and foggy but it ran fine. In town stop and go traffic in foggy conditions since last Thursday and it has run fine. Got a downpour this morning and all of a sudden it is running choppy and the CEL is flashing at me.
I have a 96 MK3 as well that would run badly in the rain until I changed out the Electronic Coil. Got so I would carry spares with me.
Is it the same fix for the MK4 2.0? I've also read about using epoxy or JB Weld to coat the coils and keep the water out. Does that work for the MK4 Ignition coil?
I have a 2001 Toyota Sienna xle that started running rough when the weather turned cold. When started, the car idles very high and will not shift properly until it was been running for around 5 minutes. After that it will run well for about 10-15 minutes and then begin to run rough or poorly. The problem is very noticeable at low speeds and when stopped. It never actually kills, but it feels like it is going to. At high speeds it is less noticeable but occasionally you will feel it jerk or chug like the transmission is slipping or a belt or something.
I took it to a mechanic who checked the codes and found that the ignition coils were supposedly bad. I say supposedly because they replace three of the ignition coils and the problem still persists. I then took it back to the mechanic who then told me it was the oxygen sensor. The o2 sensor was replaced and the problem is still there with no noticeable improvement. I again to it back to the mechanic who tells me that they scratching their heads.
I have done some looking around on the internet and have found some discussions that seem to have some promising leeds and actually last weeks car talk show had a caller who described a similar problem. The guys told him it could be a oxygen sensor but they thought a better possibility would be EGR valve or a vacuum leak. Not sure if this sienna has an EGR, but I plan to suggest looking into it to the mechanic. Also, I found some discussions talking about the idle control valve and the engine control module.
Right now it's about 80 outside in SoCal and I want to go out soon with 100% grill blocking: is it gonna be overheating something?
View 4 RepliesStarting this past winter, whenever the overnight temperature drops below 45 degrees, a loud grinding/whirring noise emanates from inside the middle of the dashboard of my 2006 Prius. The noise occurs in regular one second or so intervals, and appears to originate inside or behind the touchscreen and radio/CD player.
The noise continues for about 15-20 seconds, and then goes away. The problem won't reoccur until the car cools overnight - i.e. the grinding noise won't reappear if I start the car up again when it's warm.
I recorded the sound this morning and have attached a sample WAV file here. I had to upload it as a zip file because the upload facility on PriusChat apparently doesn't allow one to directly upload a wav file.
Today in NY the temp in the morning was 0 d F. As I started up the car I hear a rough aggressive movement coming from the engine compartment then the Ready sign, beeping and the check engine light, (Giant red triangle ! Emergency sign), and the (!) sign.
I turned it off and one 3 times same thing, I decided to leave it and turned back home, then I noticed the battery level dropped to 2 bars from like 5 bars within 5 minutes. I did/was able to move the car back and then forth just to see if it would work, but the normal engine never came back on(on the computer screen).
My 2005 Prius, 88K miles, has developed an odd quirk. For about a month, the AC will not retain the last temperature setting. For example, you drive the car, set the temperature to max cold, arrive at your destination, turn the car off and when you start it again the temperature has reset to 75 degrees. Never used to do this before. I'm hoping it is just a module of some sort and not a major AC repair.
View 6 RepliesHad mine for 5K service and had them check alignment. Steering felt sluggish and wheel was a few degrees off center from the day it rolled off the lot.
Both front wheels had toe-in over 1/2". Makes you wonder if this is due to spring settling.
My outside temp readout seems to be stuck at 61-64 degrees and that won't allow the auto select to come on if I have it set at say 72 degrees. It has been working really great up till about a week ago.
View 5 RepliesI've been noticing this one single "metallic" click sound a few months ago, it happens whenever I turn the steering wheel a little over 90 degrees.
The steering intermediate shaft recall has been done summer of last year. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with this sound I'm hearing.
This is a video I made
If you watch this video, you need to turn it up really loud to hear the faint click sound every time I turn the steering wheel past 90 degrees.
just yesterday I took a long trip with my camry and noticed that when I reach 90mph I started to feel the steering wheel shake which makes me think that the engine standoffs need to be replaced?
Also I just found out that the dealer hid damage to the paint by putting their sticker over it, I bought the car a month ago but I dont know what to do?
2008 Suzuki Grand Vitari V6 4WD. What could be causing a harmonic noise upon reaching 50 to 60 mph? It is intermittent and can last for hours on a long trip. It doesn't matter if AC is on. It sounds like a piece of plastic is stuck in the air vents, a high pitch.
View 1 RepliesIt is a 1999 Toyota 4 runner SR5, not sure when last changed out fluid and filter. Why would my engine vibrate at 52mph and above? Once I take my foot off rthe gas it stops untl i press gas pedal again. I have had the front end alignment done and the tires checked.
View 5 RepliesLast couple months, I've started to have some major vibration in the front end when reaching the 60-70 mph range. Some minor vibration in the 55-60 and 70-75 ranges, but primarily (and worse) in the 60-70 range. It only happens when I'm pressing the gas for more acceleration (particularly when I gun it), not when I'm coasting in that range. I had the tires balanced a month or so ago, so I know it's not that.
View 1 Replies