Winters get COLD up here, easily -20F at night.
All my life, I've always went running outside, start the car up, get the heat blasting, run back inside. By the time I walk out to actually leave 10-15 minutes later, it's warm (or at least tolerable) inside the car, and the windows are defrosted.
I have noticed that due to warmer weather and more Prius C owners that the MPG's are going up. No many in the 40's mpg anymore. I enjoy people posting and obtaining over the EPA of 50 mpg, the 60 mpg figure appears to be fairly easy
to obtain with the Prius C.
On our Prius the last mpg was 52.3 calculated this is real world driving with my wife driving 75% of the time and she does not drive strictly for MPG's.
I believe we should all take a minute and pat ourselves on the back as all the countless gallons of gas we our saving and will be saving for our friends and neighbors who have no choice but perhaps to drive large cars and pickup trucks...
I have a 2000 Nissan Altima that works great except when the weather becomes cold in the winter. The brakes don't work when I turn on my car. The brake lever will not press down at all and once or twice (before I realized this was happening) my car went sliding down the road without an ability to stop. I can't tell if they start working after the car warms up or after I've pumped them for a while because they'll start working again at random times. Sometimes it takes a few seconds and sometimes it takes a few minutes.
View 15 RepliesHere in the northwest the weather has been dry and temps in the 40's to over 60 degrees. The mpg's have increased about 5-7 mpg over just a month ago.
View 5 RepliesWife was driving her Lexus 2010 when she got the following warnings and took a picture (see below). It was freezing outside so that may have had something to do with this.
Drove car in morning to appointment (5 miles) no problem. Let sit for 2 hours (freezing weather). Drove back and encountered the warning below: Check AWD System, check engine light and traction control light. Roads were fine with no snow/ice. I checked code on car and it called out Cylinder 5 misfire. She encountered loss of power going up hill.
I cleared code and checked/replace front bank of plugs (Cylinders 2, 4, 6) with Denso #3426 (FK20HR11) - too difficult to replace others. Spark plugs looked decent minus some oil/gas on threads of plugs similar to what I saw on another posting that went through process of changing plugs. Car drove fine after (next 20 miles).
Lexus 2010 - RX350 : Check AWD System
Power steering quit while driving in freezing weather. Checked fluid was overflowing when pulled out dip stick. What is problem ?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2007 Level 3 Prius with about 110k miles. I now have a problem that I am not sure how to fix. Perhaps because of the warmer weather the rubber that you press to get the hatch open has gotten kind of sticky. Sometimes your fingers will get some sticky black on them. I was starting to think that I should look into replacing this rubber. The hatch was sometimes getting hard to open.
Well, we just took this big 1300 mile drive from central Florida to western NY. We are now in 9 degree weather. I cannot get the hatch to open at all. The other day it stuck but after a few attempts and carefully pressing down on the hatch without hurting the spoiler I got it to open. I first thought it was just because things were packed tightly, but now nothing is back there and I cannot get the hatch to open.
I think I have resigned myself to the fact that I wont fix this until I'm back in sunny warm weather. Any thoughts on how to get this to open? And if I do get it to open will I be able to close it again? It feels like there is no longer any "give" to where you press the rubber to open the hatch.
This one comes just in time when the cold and bad weather has started! My car is exhibiting certain symptoms and I am trying to figure out whether this is an issue with physical duct and air passageway components, the computer or something else....
When I turn on climate control, the car will blow air temp according to the one inputted only when I am driving, as soon as I come to a standstill, no matter what temp i input in the CC on the center console, the air will be freezing cold.
Now I don't know if its the computer sending improper signals to the duct system, a bad sensor or some problem with the duct passageway system.
Noise question. I have a 2011 super duty f250 xlt, and my question is I have a grinding noise that does not sound metallic and only shows up when its below freezing, only in drive and for about 50 yards.
View 6 RepliesI've got a problem with my R and I don't know what to do. It will overheat after being driven for a bit in warm weather and then if I get stuck in traffic, boom, the temp goes to red and the warning chimes on, stop car and check coolant level. The coolant level is OK, and I can't seem to figure out what is failing. I brought it to the dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong with it and it supposedly didn't throw any faults.
I know it's not just me that sees this happening as I now have two witnesses( I thought I was going crazy at first, I could still be going crazy but the car is definitely exhibiting this issue). Which temp sensor the fans work off of? I was thinking maybe the fans weren't coming on, as soon as I get back under and the highway air is coming, it cools right back down. The problem is sometimes it happens, sometimes it does not. I don't want to continue driving thinking it's just a gauge glitch and end up overheating and ruining my car.
Rough shifts like my 99 GLS (93k mi.) suffers from. Why this would happen only in warm weather and stop and go driving and not when the outside temp is less than 60 degrees?
View 7 RepliesFunny my Audi did it when I got it. Had to replace steering column. My old Treg V6 did it. Lube job. And now the current Treg is doing it. All on the onset of warmer weather.
View 4 RepliesThis has been going on for 3 or 4 months can someone tell me where the ETC sensor is located on 4 cylinder 2008 Elantra ?
View 5 RepliesI have a Santa Fe 2007, when the weather gets warmer it doesn't always start first time, once and a while I have to try two to three times...
View 4 Replies1991 honda crx si - starts fine when weather and engine is cold but lately giving me trouble starting when it is warm [above 80] and engine is cold [has not been driven for several hours].
View 1 RepliesSo, I have a 97 f150 with a 4.6 that idles low, around 5-600 all the time, and stalls in warm weather only. I just cleaned the IAC to no avail..
View 8 RepliesI have a 2002 Kia Sportage 4WD. It runs great from fall thru winter and spring. But when summer comes and the ambient temp gets into the 80's it will run good for @ 5 to 10 miles then crap out. Sometimes it seems like it's starving for fuel but others its more of a misfire like electrical. I've replaced the fuel pressure regulator, the intake air temp sensor and even the catalytic converter. Spring is coming soon and I really like this car.
View 4 RepliesOur car starts, then dies. It starts fine, then dies. This only happens in warm weather, which we have finally been experiencing in Northern Illinois. It eventually gets to the point where we can drive it, but then might die at a stop sign, or it can go the rest of the day and not have any difficulties. I know later models have timing chains, not belts. Does our car have a timing belt problem or maybe fuel pump? And why only in warm weather?
View 7 RepliesMy 2000 VR6 Jetta has an annoying problem of hard starting in warm weather. Last summer through fall when the weather was warmer, it would often crank but not catch. All winter it is fine. A jump will usually gets it after a while. Replaced the battery with limited success. I park in the shade whenever possible. It has the manf. alarm system, and, also, but not always, it is accompanied by key not turning off the alarm. Do not have remote. Replaced the Fuel Pump Relay. No success. Cannot predict, so I don't want to have it sitting at the dealer for days on end.
View 2 RepliesI have an issue with my cruise control that only occurs when there is warm/hot weather, or if my car has been sitting in the sun for an extended period of time. The issue does not happen in the Fall or Winter, and generally not in the morning after my car has been sitting in the garage overnight. The issue that occurs is that sometimes I can turn on my cruise, set the speed, and then seconds or minutes later it'll just cancel the cruise speed without me doing so or hitting a pedal. Other times I cannot even turn on my cruise control, or the cruise light keeps flashing on and off. I've checked the fuse box and everything looks fine there, but I couldn't specifically find a fuse labeled for cruise control.
View 2 RepliesMy car has 130k miles and has recently developed a worrying noise. It makes an extra whirring sound, like another set of gears spinning, but I don't think I would describe it as a grinding noise. I live in VT and I thought maybe it was my (studless) snow tires making more noise in the warm weather because I noticed it about a month and a half ago when it warmed up. Now that I have my all season tires on, it's still making the noise. The tire guys didn't notice anything wrong when the swap happened (but they only do tires there and I didn't ask them to look for anything).
As far as I can tell it is dependent on wheel speed, not engine speed. It starts at about 20-25mph and gets louder the faster I go. At about 65 the normal road noise is louder than the new noise. If I turn the wheel to the right to any degree the noise goes away. I can't tell if it is completely gone, but it seems like it is. There is no real change if I turn the wheel to the left, though it might get slightly worse. When the noise is going I can feel a vibration in the floorboard that matches the sound. The sound seems like it is coming from in front of me, but I can't really tell if it is left, right, or center. As far as I can tell that is the only new noise, no clicking/griding when I turn the wheel etc.
I'm taking it in for normal 130k maintenance in a week....