Prius C :: Harsh Transition When Hydraulic Brakes Take Over
Jun 7, 2015
Just wondering how many other C owners are experiencing harsh transition when the hydraulic brakes take over, just as the car comes to a stop, when it's wet outside...
There's a delicate balance just when you're coming to a stop with mild pedal pressure. MG2 regen. braking tapers off, and at the same time, the hydraulic brake system applies the brakes. Do this at a low enough speed, with little pressure, like creeping forward in traffic, and the brakes grab pretty harshly...
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I'm new to Prius V ownership. Just bought it a month ago. I do have a question regarding what I can best describe as driveline chatter. It seems that when I slow down to a point where the EV mode takes over and then speed up again, the Prius will chatter as it makes the transition from electric to gas. Is this a normal thing for a Prius to do. It goes away after the pedal is further depressed and doesn't last for long. It seems just at the transition from EV to ECO (engine) mode.
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This morning, during a routine drive to work in my 2007 Toyota Prius, my instrument panel lit up with the brake light and ABS light. The car braked normally, although when I tested the anti-lock brakes in a parking lot, the car slid and the ABS did not engage. I brought it to a shop - they ran a diagnostic and came up with a Malfunction of the Hydraulic System - right rear. They said I need to take it to a dealer for repairs. This car has cost me a lot in repairs over the last year...and with 170,000 miles, I'm not willing to put in a lot more.
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I've had my c for about four months/2,000 miles. I have a short city-based commute, and I drive it fairly gingerly. Since I don't drive on the highway much, it very rarely even goes into the power zone on the HSI.
This past weekend my boyfriend and I took my car to the Oregon Coast to go camping. He drove, and although he has a heavier foot than I, it's just kind of a tough drive for the little engine (though not something that it can't handle).
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My 2015 prius series 5 ride is really harsh when gong over bumps! 17 OEM wheels w Toyo tires set at 33 frt/32 rear, Trd springs frt/rear, trd rear sway Cusco frt sway bar, front power brace and center brace! Should go back to stock springs? Or invest in set of soft coil overs ? I like the lowered look too!
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The car was purchased used with 18" wheels already on. After driving for about 6 months, I started noticing the road noise getting very loud. I took the car to a tire shop and they told me that there was some uneven cupping in the middle of the wheels, which is usually caused by worn out shocks making the wheel bounce up and down.
I replaced all 4 shocks, then replaced all 4 tires. Now its much more smooth than before, and is very silent on nicely paved roads. however, I notice when there's roads which any imperfections (like fixed streets with tar.. or uneven pavements, or when your tire hits the freeway markers to keep you in the lane) its heard very loud from inside the car and creates an almost *thud* sound when it does.
I assumed that the problem was that the car had 18" wheels. So recently I swapped the wheels out with stock 15" from Toyota, but somehow the road noise is still very apparent. I sat in a friend's Prius, same year, and I could tell that it was handling the uneven pavements much softer.
What could be the problem now? Is there anything else that needs to be replaced?
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Drove my wife's 4motion today after having drove it a few days ago,didn't really notice anything unusual,then ......but today going around a curve at highway speed(app.55-65mph) went over a small (low) but the length of the lane paved strip and it acted like it had a solid rear axle instead of the indi rear ,showing up as an uneven rough transition ,than the usual nice unoticable smooth ride it had for years,...what rear suspension item would create that if it were broke/failed, Didn't notice any other strange behavior or noises on straights or curves w/o bumps.
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I find that I often don't get smooth shifts; mostly to 2nd and 3rd. By this I mean I notice a gravel like transition between the gates. Doesn't happen all the time but I wonder if it's how I'm shifting versus the car. Or maybe the RPMs I shift at.
I did ask dealer to take a look and they said smooth and normal to them. I generally will shift when shift advice pops up on display. Also. I've noticed it doesn't happen as much if I pause the shift at the neutral point versus a single push gear to gear. Clutch is always to the floor for the entirety of the shift.
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Ever since I picked up my V8 Touareg I've noticed that the transition from stopped to starting can sometimes be rough, and that the shift from 1st to 2nd is often a fairly violent jerk. The worst transmission problem on my Touareg is experienced when I'm in stop-and-go traffic going around 5mpg in 1st gear then accelerate normally. The shift to 2nd is extremely rough.
I took my Touareg into the shop last week to fix this, and another problem I was having, and the car is still at the dealer. When I talked to my service advisor on Friday he said that this is a fairly common problem with later VIN cars. Evidently, they had to reprogram the transmission to meet some EPA regulation and that is causing rough shifting in the lower gears.
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From a dead stop it takes a second to go and isn't super smooth, slightly jerky. Seems fine for all other gears, just from dead stop it isn't a smooth transition into 1st gear. Is this typical of DSG or no?
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Is it necessary to change the transition fluid every 60,000 miles?
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I have recently done a battery disconnect hoping the issue was a glitch in the ecu/tcu as this has solved some clunkiness in my old audi. But the issue is till there.
I also went ahead and did a fluid change of the transmission at the dealer.
The issue is intermittent and the rpms just rev up slightly only on the 3rd and 4th transition and like I mentioned it is an intermittent issue.
I have read something about adjusting bands to the transmission? Is this solution applicable to the 05 solara v6 tranny? The old transmission fluid was pink and not black or burnt.
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I have a vacuum leak. That's clear. When I put the truck in 4WD the air vents to the defrost after a slow (15-20 s) transition. The only way I can get the air to come back to the dash vents is to disengage 4x4. Of course, the auto-lockers aren't working. I can trouble shoot the vacuum lines and find the leak. No big deal.
I've isolated it downstream of the vacuum reservoir. It could be the PVH solenoid but at least the reservoir side holds pressure.
My concern is the noticeably poor A/C performance. It cycles between kinda cool and kinda warm. I remember the A/C being ice cold a few weeks ago.
Could the vacuum leak in 4x4 vacuum lines be related to the A/C problems? I'm thinking blend door vacuum issues. But I can't even find the blend door vacuum lines.
How do I know if my blend door is fully open/closed? Are there any other place to look that can cut down on my troubleshooting?
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I just bought a used automatic MM with 137k miles. Engine and interior super clean. I did test drive and it seemed to pull back a bit and rev harder when I was starting out from a stop or in intermittent traffic where I was slowing down and speeding up with flow of traffic. It also does it worse on hills. The guy from the car lot said it was the way I was driving the car...hmmmm...I'm not a lead foot. I let the car ease into higher speeds, I don't punch it. Ever.
Yesterday I took a longer drive and had other people in the car with me who also noticed the rough transitions between low gears and asked if that was "normal." NOT being a car mechanic I get alarmed when others are pointing something I too thought could be at issue. I bought the car "as is" after doing some online research and finding out that these car's even at this age get 4.5 to 5 star ratings from people who have them.
I took it to Auto Zone and they put the little code reader on the car but no codes came up. His suggestion was to have all the fluids changed in case someone put the wrong weight of transmission fluid in the car. I did check the fluid at the car lot and it was bright pink and at correct levels. Not sure that's what it is. He also suggested the possibility of it being a "shift cellinoid"?
I don't know what that is but he said it shouldn't be expensive to fix. He also suggested getting the transmission serviced to see if that might solve it. Someone else suggested "clean the IAC hole and throttle plate with choke cleaner..." don't know what that is? Someone else said to consider a vacuum leak in the fresh air tube between the air filter box and the throttle body...these are all just guesses.
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Recently died hydraulic unit and replace it with a new one. After that cars no longer be got, when you turn the key click retractor once and everything goes out. new battery has recently changed, the starter works too shot him believe the wiring under the feet and weight checked all normal.
Struck by errors and erased them, still will not start.
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Volvo850 turbo year94 I'm a lot like I do most of the repairs. But now I have a problem with the ABS code 444 No power supply to valves in hydraulic unit.
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The two cylinders that hold the hatch in an up position have failed. Curiously, it happened overnight. One day they were working, the next they were not.
Is replacing them a DIY job? You can assume i have tools and a modicum of mechanical savvy, though I am decidedly not a mechanic. Anything special or unusually complex about the task?
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I have a 91 Mercedes with 153,000 miles thats terrific but the mystery leak in the hydraulic running the rear suspension is driving me nuts. Especially when the hydraulics call for factory spec fluid.
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I have a '05 Mercedes CLK320 convertible that I purchased 3 years ago with about 29,000 miles on it. Two years ago the hydraulic lines in the top blew and I spent about $3,000 to have it repaired. Today, the lines blew again. What I'm trying to find out is: - Is this common in this car? Or in any convertible?- Did I just get a lemon?- If this isn't a common problem, should the dealer that repaired the hydraulics 2 years ago fix them again for free?
It only has 70,000 miles on it now and I was under the impression that I could drive a Mercedes for a couple hundred thousand miles without a too much mechanical problem. But if this is going to be an ongoing issue, I'm going to get rid of the car, even though I absolutely love it. It's ruby red, of course!
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I have a 1964 Ford Falcon Convertible. I know one side of the hydraulic system leaks. Today, when I went to put the top back up the hydraulic, wouldn't lift the top. It took 2 people pulling hard and the hydraulic system on to get it to move enough to put it back up. Is there a way to disable the electrical part of the system and just lift it manually? If so, could one person do it? My son has an Eclipse and he can do his top manually.
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Looks like transmission mount (driver side/ left) is leaking. I was under the car today, and i found the small dribble of a thick, slow moving, black fluid that didnt have any scent. it leaked down the unibody, onto a brake line(solid line) and even made a few droplets onto the rim and lower control arm.
I traced the leak to the bottom bolt of the transmission mount. i count believe it; but apparently Hyundai engineers opted to use hydraulic mounts versus the more typical solid rubber mounts. it honestly took me 10 minutes, with a flashlight, to check over everything. the ONLY place that the fluid came from was the lowest bolt of the tranny mount. i simply didnt want to believe it to be the tranny mount.
I called a couple dealers, and they all said that if i am the original owner, and i have the 100,000 mile warranty still in effect, its covered.
awd part number: 218302W100
fed part number: 218302W00
Here are a few pics.....
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