Prius C Fuel :: Millage Dropped Drastically
Dec 27, 2015
I have Prius 2010 and I was getting 20 km/l to 22 km/l until I repaired the part which is between two tires and when you revolve your steering it revolve due to that rod. Right after I drive my car as I came out of workshop, it seems that my engine keep running more and turn off less.
1- Can I check if my Hybrid battery is getting weak or what is the health of my hybrid battery ?
2- Is there any way if I can check my front tires are revolving without any friction and revolving freely ?
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2011 Prius for wife. Mileage has always been upper 40s to low 50s until the last week or so, now she is seeing 35 mpg displayed.
I have asked for a check at fill up. I just pulled the car out to wash it and noticed the engine came on right away, same when I put it back into the garage. In the past we would get part way down the driveway before the engine came on. Also did a code check and no codes found
What are the approximate outside air temps? 40s am 70s pm.
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Well I shouldn't say MPG since we canadians use L/100km.
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I've had my car going at 45 mpg the past 2 years. I just hit my 45k mileage mark. I drive mostly on the highway to work so getting 45 mpg is pretty good for me. This last few fill ups, I noticed my gas mileage has gone down to 40 mpg. I thought it was a mistake if it was just once but the last 7 fill ups has been that way. It just went down all of a sudden and has stayed that way.
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The last few days with snow and temps dipping below, my mileage has dropped significantly to high 20s/low 30s. I understand that (a) I park my car outside, (b) warm-up my car during the time I clean the snow, (c) no EBH, (d) no grill blocking, and (e) my drive to work is only ~15 miles round trip, but still mileage in the high 20s/low 30s is lousy, even lower than my break-in mileage (30s) that occurred in Jan. Even, my 1995 Corolla with 150k miles also gives about mid-20s during the winter with identical driving styles and conditions. So what's with the Prius?
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I have 2600 miles on my 2012 mdl II. A month old. I have been averaging 47.5mpg since day one based on miles driven and gas put back in tank at each fill up. I have used only Mobil bottom 87 oct gas.Last fill up got me 48.2, very nice, then I filled up with mid grade 89 oct as it was all I could get then. The next day I was in the dealer for my 1000 mile checkup. when I got out my battery was down to 25%, okay no biggie. Then from there on out I notice my mpg changed alot. The comps used to read 49.1-50.1. Now it reads 42.2-44.1. I drive the same way and my 85 mile round trip to work hasn't changed. My first fill up since the dealer, got me 45.0 mpg. wow a big drop off.
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Today I went to the national car test (passed. but), when the car has been returned to me by the employee of national car test center I noticed one bar on the SOC. This happened for the first time.
Additional notes:
1) recently (about 4 weeks ago) I had to temporarily replace for second hand (20 bucks) 12v small auxiliary battery.
2) recently (withing last four weeks) I noticed high temperature in the boot compartment, I tried to investigate and the ducting leading from the HV battery was really hot, which means that my battery was really hot too.
I tried to explain this to myself that this might be due to HV operating at higher levels due to unknown state of the replaced 12v small aux battery (second hand product).
3) Today I noticed that technician at the test center used some spring assisted bar to press the brake on the car while he tested the car, I recon that maybe he have had powered off the car while doing so, is it possible that this might have contributed to the dropped SOC ?- it's just my guess.
I'm thinking to replace 12v aux battery to brand new battery and then test the operation of the fan and whether the temperature still rise. - is it good idea? Or should I just seek for the testing tool to determine the status of each of the modules?
If so, which testing device can handle this task? I heard from this forum about ELM obd bluetooth adapter. I use android device, would this be okay or should I look for another device perhaps scangauge?
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I used to get 55-58 MPG when my commute was 65 miles one way, 85% freeway. But these days I noticed that when AC runs hard and trips typically 16 miles, 40 MPH, mpg dropped to 42-45. That worried me a little bit.
Driving style: conservative. I start off normally, but I use N gear as soon as passing speed limit. (this factor alone should enhance mpg by 10 I guess. I used this technique on my 98' Lexus LS400, 4 Ltr V8 engine, once got 38 mpg on freeway, while the sticker says 18/25). This is the main reason I worry that something is wrong with my prius.
Typical range: 16 miles, all local.
Tire pressure: 40 psi
AC runs hard, outside temp 90 degrees, I set temp to 72 inside. (I guess this is the main reason for mpg drop, but I don't think it should drop that much)
I recently changed oil and trans oil.
My battery is a little bit weak, but no warning light. If I forget to turn off head lights, it needs jump in 10 minutes.
Mileage is 143K, 2004 model.
Water pump changed by Toyota free of charge.
Any clue? or it sounds normal and I don't need to worry about it?
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I had my the tires on my 2009 Prius rotated a while back. My car has 36,000 miles on it all on the original tires. It seems like my mileage dropped a bit since doing that. There are so many variables in mileage though, it is hard for me to pin it down to that. Could tire rotation affect my mileage?
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I noticed a drop on my mpg while driving with an open sunroof.
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I have been having an issue which I can't get to understand the millage has gone down and there,' a check light on the main meter i tried the google translator but that only says call the car company...
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I have the 3.6 and it has been great on fuel economy up until last week. I was averaging about 26mpg and getting near 20 mpg around town. Now my fuel economy has dropped to 15mpg city and 25mpg highway putting the overall MPG down to around 20. What happened? Did I get a bad tank of fuel or is it time for new spark plugs? The car has 34k on it; and when I checked the plugs at 28k they looked like new and gapped to within .002 of the spec.
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Ok, so I was already getting pretty bad fuel economy from my 3.6 4motion wagon (14/24 city/highway). so last week I take it in to the dealer for 5k oil service. now after the service I get 10/18 (city/highway)!!!!
Car seems to run fine, but for some reason the fuel economy has dropped significantly. Most people on here say they get better economy after the 5k service.
Now the car is at the dealer for a few days for them to check it out. Gave me a old hyundai for a loaner.
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Today I noticed an anomaly with the fuel gauge in my 2010 TDI Golf. While driving along the fuel gauge dropped down to empty. But there were no other indicators and the engine kept running. I had filled up with diesel about 10 miles prior and had stopped and started the car a couple of times since. I went on to my next stop (after another 4 miles or so) and then restarted the car with no issues and the fuel gauge was back to normal.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai accent hatchback with 225000km. The first time I drove it for over an hour, 1 trip no stops, the fuel gauge dropped to empty while there was 3/4 of a tank. The 2nd time I drove over an 1 the fuel gauge dropped again and the gas light came on (again around 3/4 of a tank). My mechanic said until it does it consistently he can't diagnose so I let it go.
More recently, driving it to and from work 5 days, plus some extra city driving, I used 1/4 tank the full week. Today I picked up 4 winter tires and bringing them home (approximately the same distance as my work) I used 1/4 tank right there. I understand it is weighed down, but could it really be that much? What is causing the fuel jumps and gauge jumps? I've already had the float replaced.
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I recently installed a glow shift fuel pressure gauge. All seems good.
@ idle 58-60 psi
@ WOT drops to 50 psi, no less.
Tonight I went to catch up to a car that had no lights on at all to tell them and during WOT fuel pressure gauge showed it dropped to less than 30! I let off immediately and it went right back up. I tried to repeat it with another go @ WOT and it would not go under 50 psi like normal.
Motorcraft fuel filters less than 3000 miles ago .. Blue spring installed over the winter.
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I just got a 2011 corolla le with 45k miles and the gas millage is terrible. I have a 2005 acura rsx and I drive about 20 miles a day and I can go a whole month without refilling. I Put in half a tank in our corolla and only got 115 miles out of it. I drive the same way I do in my acura which Is pretty fuel efficient. My car tells me I am getting 27 mpg. But if I calculated correctly (115miles /7 gallons= about 1 8 mpg, my acura will get nearly twice that millage. What do you think I need to do. I've only put 500-1000 miles on it and not sure when the last tune up was. Should I take it to Toyota?
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460, stock RV motor with LT headers, Alum Stealth intake. Carb is brand new, Holley 600 cfm, out of the box.
Elec choke, vac 2nds. Timing is set to 12 BTDC.
Truck idles beautifully. Drop it in drive, it will ever so slightly stumble/hesitate then go liked a raped ape. Has great acceleration (for a 8k dually crewcab). In my mind, I'm thinking a slightly larger than stock accel pump to give a bigger shot.
However, it does have a 1" carb spacer. That and the hi rise stealth, is it leaning out for a sec and causing the stumble? Would pulling that 1" spacer work? I was thinking the higher the carb the better to get less heat dissipation from the engine's heat. Replacing the heater core now. So I have some time to sort it out. I'd like to road test a tank of gas through it, but gotta fix the heater 1st.
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Ok. So. 2005 excursion v10 270k miles. Never ever had an issue starting. Today it was about 30 degrees in Detroit. Had to crank for about 4 seconds. Usually it turns over within one second of cranking. So I get to work and hook up a fuel pressure tester to it. Got to 35psi while running, upon shutting off it dropped to 0 within 30 seconds. I have no codes. And absolutely no drive ability issues. No gas smell. And I'm really hoping its just z fuel pump check valve cause then I can just prime it by doing key on key off then crank...also hoping not injector cause I won't be able to pull the injectors till Sunday snd I really don't wanna hydro lock my motor >.< best way to test injector/fuel pump valve? I like to fix issues as soon as they pop up. Wanna get my v10 to 400k.
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Well, I was cruising down the highway @70MPH and notice the fuel pressure gauge dropped down to 50 then back to 65. Kept watching the gauge and it would swing back and forth from 55 to 65.
Got off the highway. Nailed it at the light and watched the gauge drop to 53 and swing back to 65. Fuel pressure is not steady either. It swings back and forth from 52 to 65. Thinking the pump is on its her last legs? Truck got 194K on her.
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2002 Santa fe 2.7l v6 trouble code p1529 p0121 p0129 p0740...
I'm having erratic shifting problems and poor gas millage. The issue began approx 2 weeks ago and is always present. The issue is hard shifting between all the gears, jerking, high tac revving , difficulty shifting from 3rd to 4th gear and throttle at times unresponsive, and like i stated earlier poor gas mileage.
This past weekend I replaced the TPS, but the TPS codes are still present. One concern I have with the replacement is that I din't detach the negative cable, which I've recently learned should be done. So I'm not sure if by neglecting to remove the battery cable I may have damaged the new TPS.
Is it true that the negative battery cable should be removed with TPS replacement?
I've also read that a faulty TCM can cause these types of symptoms as well and one resolution may be to reset the TCM by removing both battery cables.
Any information on resetting the TCM? Also, in case I decide to replace the TCM, where the module is located ?
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