Prius C Fuel :: MPG Huge Fluctuations In The Odometer View
May 17, 2016
I have a 2015 PRIUS C for 3+ months now (used to drive a 2012 PRIUS) . Approx 3K+ miles traveled already to date. Anyway, I noticed on 2 occurrence that my MPG on the odometer view has had a huge reading fluctuation. Prior to the first occurrence, my Travel A was somewhere around 46MPG and it closely matched the Odometer view reading. Then I noticed it go down to 33MPG while Travel A is still at 46MPG, both had the same miles traveled. I let it go and when I checked my MPG on the Odometer last week, it was back to normal.
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I have a 2002 Prius, and I have been struggling trying to get it fix. But it's either one thing to the next without completely knowing what's what. Recently, the right front bearing and the left rear bearing, both front struts/shocks, right balljoint, and two front brakes were replaced.
Before these replacements, I had a P1436 code for the valve which was lube but nothing happened. Then after replacing the front struts/shocks, turn the car on for a test drive, brake light and check engine light came on, speed odometer it not working. I used the OBII scanner from autozone and got P0500 said: vehicle speed sensor A malfunction.
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I'd heard that the new Prius V would give you stats on your latest trip. I see where it will tell you how long you've driven, but I was under the impression that it also did your MPG for the latest trip too?
Also, my 2008 would automatically reset the trip odo upon fill up. Not the tripA or tripB odo's, but the one on the consumption screen. Does the new one do something similar? I new at every fill up that I would reset the MPG's for that tank whenever the miles reset. I can't find an analog to that in the new screens.
How are people calculating MPG's per tank, computer wise?
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My 302, only mod is a 4160 600cfm and i love it. But when I kinda baby the throttle and the secondaries flop down to let fuel it... There is a massive lag time. Sometime it will even backfire! fronts have 59's (could be slightly richer) and the back has a 134-39 metering plate and a black spring. it seems that it needs another shot from an accelerator pump to keep going. I raised the float with the same result, how to cure that lag time without mashing the throttle.
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My ScanGauge II is saying my Optima Yellow Top while in READY mode cruising down the highway is 13.4V. When I came to a stop and put the vehicle in park, it switched to 14.0V. Out of curiosity I put it in drive and it went back down to 13.4V.
Yesterday while driving on the highway for about 30 minutes it read 14V the entire trip. What's going on? Normal?
Yesterday I also had my battery tested directly on the battery at Advance Auto Parts with a computer battery tester certified for AGM batteries. It tested at 12.75V exactly, which is normal.
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I have an erratic fuel gauge. I have to reset odometer at every gas fill up to keep track of mileage. Need to replace the unit but I tried the GM Fuel treatment Plus in the gas tank first.
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I've read through my manual, but can't find anything on how to actually lock the odometer at zero when I don't need it. Trip A is set to my oil change mileage and I just want Trip B to be off or at zero. 2012 F150 XL SBRC, 5.0 V8 4x4, 3.55 gears....
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I have a 1997 f150 4.6L 4x4 Standard Transmission and today I hopped in it to go to work, and the Speedo, Trip Odometer, and Odometer all are not working.
This is the first time it has happened to me, what could cause this or have a problem similar to this and know how to fix it?
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Well I work overnight security and I'm able to watch movies in my car or be on my laptop at work but I ruined my battery( didn't have the car engine on) and now that my battery is dying I noticed huge drop in gas mileage .
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Started Ex yesterday morn for a couple minutes then all of a sudden radio went dead along with fuel gauge and digital odometer. I shut down then re-fired and all worked again.
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The car would rev high to 3k rpms for around 3 seconds on start ups. After I did a timing belt job the car has been jumping 2k to 3.5k back down to 3k, etc sometimes settling at 1.5k. Each time it jumps it stays there for about three seconds. This mainly happens when I am stopped and foot off the throttle, but still does it when it drives, but it is not noticed as much since there is a load under the engine.
Couple of notes:
I made dam sure the timing was correct and belt teeth were installed properly, checked it about 10 times before buttoning everything up. Only thing I can think of is that the belt is too tight but I don't see that causing this problem.
I did clean the pcv valve and a few electrical connections which solved the problem short term, but has come back 3-4 weeks later.
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I just found out from a dealer that my odometer (2004) does not go above 300,000 miles. I guess if I had been on Priuschat more regularly I would have discovered this long ago! Any answer from Toyota as to why this is so, or what (if anything) they are going to do about it? I'd think it would be fairly bad publicity for them to have it publicized that they don't expect the Prius to last more than 300,000 miles...
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My sister was driving my '02 Corolla (120K miles) this morning when the RPM's started to fluctuate between 1500-2500 for a few seconds. Did it on the highway (60 mph) and then again on a city street (45 MPH). Then back to normal. Had a tune up etc less than 2 months ago.
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I believe that the odometer MPG applies to "when the hybrid engine is started." I turn the car on, and the odometer MPG is at 0.0
I flip to "Trip A", and reset it. Now the Trip A MPG is 0.
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Just for grins I used a GPS mileage logger app on my phone to compare to the mileage logged on the car. The app was launched well before taking off and so there was a good satellite fix.
Trip summary on the car logged 15.9 miles, and the GPS logged 15.52 miles. Tires are stock 17" Toyo Proxes down to 4/32nds. What do you think of this discrepancy?
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I have been recently got an offer to move to OH from Toronto, Canada. One of the criteria to import my car to the US is to have my 2008 Prius Odometer from KM to Miles.
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How to reverse this or do I need to make another trip to the dealership?
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Check engine and tcs light came on solid. Rough idling and rpm fluctuations while cruising. Brought it to toyota and they scanned it revealing a P2195 code: bank 1 air fuel sensor stuck lean. So what I'd like to know is; How long was the vehicle in the shop? What is involved in repairing this problem?
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I have a 2006 Sentra that over the last few months on a few occasions (3-4) when driving on the highway would jolt into the next gear.
Last week, the car simply died on me waiting at a light and the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree. The car did not start again for about a minute. It did. When I drove it home, the car accelerated slightly on its own into the driveway. I took it into the local Nissan dealer. They found no error codes of any kind. They recommended a whole bunch of things that more or less needed to get done anyways but the pertient one is that they flushed and refilled the transmission fluid and replaced the filter.
I'm pretty sure this isn't a transmission issue but... not ruling anything out. Hoping it is not a transmission issue.
So I took the car home. A week of local light driving with no issues. I got on the highway yesterday to go to a meeting and the RPMs start fluctuating wildly from 1500-3500. I got off the highway and the car stalled out on me three times on the 10 mile or so drive back to the dealership. It did start on those occassions right away.
They claim they've had multiple people test driving the car over the last couple of days and no one is experiencing what I did. Still no error codes anywhere.
I absolutely do not feel safe driving this thing on the highway at this point. What do I do? They seem to be at the end of their diagnostic capabilities and short of randomly repairing every single part on a ten year old car that might be causing this seems... silly.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe with a 2.7 4wd. It has started fluctuating the rpm's and is shifting erratically. I have seen on here that it is possibly the TPS. Does the same in manual or auto.
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I have a terrible car. Honda Civic 2002 that runs alright but quakes and shudders after I start it. It also revs up for no reason at all whilst I drive around. Anyway two machanics have told me I have a headgasket leak that will cost a lot of money to fix. Two others have told me I don't or that it is so minor it needs not be messed with. The last one I saw decided I had a bad Coolant Sensor for the Computer.
I guess there is one for the computer and one, um, not for the computer. I bought both sensors and he changed them Friday. Today I took the car out and three times while I was out, my temp gauge shot up into the red hovered for a few minutes and sank back down. It has never done this before. Why this might be happening now? I am really sick of taking my car in and getting a thousand different stories, paying to fix things that are not wrong with it and watching it die a slow death.
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