Prius C Fuel :: ICE Revs More Frequently
Oct 24, 2012
I've had the car a little over a month. First 1000 miles were smooth (55mpg), but I have noticed that the ICE kicks in a lot more frequently now. I might be driving it incorrectly, but I've noticed my mpgs drop to under 50 for the last 800 miles driving the same commute. For an extreme example of the revving: I go to the store. Get out of the car for as little as 10 minutes after the car has been driven 15 miles or so — and even though the battery is more than half way charged, the ICE kicks once I start moving from my spot.
Even if I'm just moving from one part of the parking lot to another going less than 10 mph. When I let off the gas, the ICE continues to run even after I come to a stop.
Now I know it's getting colder (highs in the lower 50s these days), so I expect this in the morning after it sits out all night. But I don't remember this happening when I first got it (granted, it was warmer in mid Sept here).
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So I have a 95 Legacy sedan, FWD. It's been a kind of problematic car, and the engine was replaced about 5 years ago (I assume with an old unit, but I'm not sure though because though I was in the family I wasn't driving it then). But, it's held up and has continued to be at least roadworthy. But recently, it's developed an issue where the engine will just randomly die while I'm on the road. All/most of the dash indicator lights come on, but if I shift it into neutral and turn the key, it'll come right back up. Occasionally it'll die again almost immediately, but usually it'll be fine for at least a while. And anecdotally, It seems to happen more frequently at lower revs such as idling at a red light (though will occasionally happen while I'm moving), and when the engine is cold - generally once I've driven around for a while, it's not a problem anymore.
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I understand the engine turns on and off frequently (coming to a stop it turns off, then when going it turns on). I have noticed that sometimes when at the stop it will turn off, then immediately back on, and off again, even with my foot on the break.
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I have a 2009 prius with 85k miles on it, bought it two weeks ago, right off the bat I noticed that the left headlight, while driving, will frequently go out. It comes back on when I turn the headlights off and on again, and goes out again later.
Sometimes it stays on, other times it goes right out. I took the headlamp off, disconnected all wires, and cleaned it of any corrosion that was found and reconnected it, and the light still went out. What would be causing this/ what a fix is non mechanic oriented?
Worth mentioning that I've noticed condensation build up on the inside of the headlamp occasionally, and one time both lights flickered and then went out, but that hasn't happened since.
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I have been noticing a more frequent failure in my XM radio. I sucked up the extra $2000 for the GPS and use the XM radio every day, but lately, the radio cuts in and out or does not come on at all. I have to restart the car and then it will come back. The FM and AM don't fail but the XM is failing more and more frequently. My problem is it will be very hard to recreate since it only does it every once in a while.
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I have a 2009 prius with 85k miles on it, bought it two weeks ago, right off the bat I noticed that the left headlight, while driving, will frequently go out. It comes back on when I turn the headlights off and on again, and goes out again later. Sometimes it stays on, other times it goes right out. I took the headlamp off, disconnected all wires, and cleaned it of any corrosion that was found and reconnected it, and the light still went out. What would be causing this/ what a fix is non mechanic oriented?
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The first part of diagnosis is to understand how frequently this happens and hopefully find any reproducible patterns. This is an open poll running to the end of October.
ZVW30 - 1.8L Prius...
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I have noticed that when I open the door to the driver's side after the car has been sitting overnight that the pump noise is longer than half a year ago when i bought it used. It used to last for max. 3 or so seconds, and now it takes 5-10s - depends. I can get into car and almost get it into ready and then it ends.
Also, every second or third time i press the brake (normal, like when stopping gently) i can hear the sound of the pump for around 2 seconds. I don't remember that happening before so is this or isn't normal?
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Recently, we had to change the 12V auxiliary battery on our 2010 Prius IV. Everything went smoothly and the entire procedure took less than 20 minutes. We thought everything was good, until we turned on the radio.
Since we changed the 12V battery, the FM radio (which is part of the NAV console) has great difficulty keeping any station tuned. Before changing the 12V battery, we could drive around and listen to our favorite FM radio stations; now, the radio frequently loses reception, and our music frequently gets interrupted with static.
It's been a couple months, and the situation has not improved. We took a look at the antenna, and nothing looks out of the ordinary. It seem odd that changing a 12V aux battery would cause this problem, but we have not made any other changes (not even an oil change) for several months.
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I bought a new Prius PIP 2012 ten months ago. I park it in the Airport parking lot a day or two when I am out of town. And this is the 3rd time my car is completely discharged.
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I have a 2004 Prius with about 50K miles. It is driven every day. I recently noticed that the motor doesn't shut off as frequently as it used to when I stop at a light. It then also shows the battery as almost empty (1 bar) on the touch screen. Gas mileage also seems to be a little lower than it used to be. Other than that the car drives fine. Could this be an indication of the battery starting to go?
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During the last week, or slightly less I suddenly started hearing the brake boost pump running much more frequently than normal in my 2008 and is also producing a "knocking" noise along with its run noise which increases in frequency as the pump speed increases. No problems with the engine coolant pump for the thermos, and the inverter pump was replaced yesterday along with a replaced "bolt" in the steering column for the recall.
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I used to get great MPG's in the beginning (>57 MPG in summer) that deteriorated as the engine started to run longer and more frequently after what I suspected to be a faint bump against a garage wall in the front. This was several months ago. I have since been averaging about 47 MPG overall (averaging winter, summer out). I forgot about the bump incident until last week when the engine suddenly started running shorter and less frequently. This lasted for a week or so, with no significant changes in the weather/temperature. And then inexplicably, it has started to run longer and more frequently again. By "more frequently", I mean when I bring ICE on, it doesn't easily quit, regardless of my prodding it to quit by going into regen momentarily. Also, the initial warmup is longer.
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I bought an 03 with 58K miles on it. shortly after I bought it the check main battery light came on, after the local Toyota dealer told me I needed a new main battery. I had a P3000 code, a high voltage leak. It turned out to be corroded buss bars and cables, with 2 leaking cells, $1,450.00 latter the onboard computer said the problem was fixed and my display read normally for about 1,500 miles before I started getting that code and the check main battery light again.
I took it back to the shop tat did the work and they ran the diagnostics on it again, checking the main power cables that led from the main battery under the car to the Toyota Hybrid system, inverter? Under the hood they checked all of the high voltage connections, they all checked out fine. The shop then took several days to do an online search for possible causes. This led to the CV trans axle with its electric motors and generators as the possible culprit. The car is running and driving fine, so I did the 60,000 mile transmission oil change, suggested by my mechanic ( apparently the fluid becomes conductive with age) the check battery light will go off if I remove the secondary battery terminal for a minute or so and stayed off for 2 tanks of gas after the fluid change but it did come back on.
I can reset the computer easily enough and it will stay off for 3 to 400 miles but I'm looking to get the damn light to stay off. I'm going to change the trans fluid again. Changing the drive motor or generator?, can this be done in the car? or at all? It may be that if this is the problem it may end up making sense to just put in a new CV transaxle.
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I just bought a 2004 prius with 187000 miles for $2,500 and it has a triangle with an exclamation point in it and check engine light on and another symbol on the dash. When I take off it revs like the transmission is slipping and it only will get up to about 50 mph.
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My 2012 prius C engine suddenly started reving up even after taking my foot off the peddle and it doesnt go back in to EV mode at lower speeds as usual ...it is something wrong with the senses ?? Do i need to my car to the dealership ?
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I have no codes on screens, engine revs and gas mileage has gone down to 30 mpg from 40s this summer. The toyota service adviser said the poor gas mileage was from running the heater since it is around 20 degrees these days in minnesota. My innova scanner shows no DTC's. But my question is do I need a scanguage II or other scanner to get the battery codes? Am I missing them using the innova scanner? What scanners are available for 2001 prius.
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The spring (or let's call it a few warmer days) has finally came to Ireland and my sensitive ear started to notice rather quiet clicking noise from the engine. The noise gets faster (you'd get more clicks pers second) when the engine revs up.
It is not very obvious, the two mechanics I asked told me that they can't hear anything and instructed me to enjoy the sun - but I definitely can notice when the ICE starts or shuts down just by presence of this clicking noise.
What's strange, when it has been raining for some time I don't hear it anymore, the engine runs very smooth and quiet. It will keep quiet in the roofed parking garage too - so it is not the rain just masking the sound.
It does not matter if the ICE is hot or cold too. I removed the serpentine belt and have run the engines for a moment without water pomp - but the sound is still there... The oil and filter has been recently changed too.
Apart from that the car runs fine. I get slightly below the typical fuel economy (5.9l/100km = 40mpg(us)) but I think it is still OK: I run only short distances (5-10 miles tops) and decided to ignore the pulse'n'glide technique as it kept my focus off the road.
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When I drive the PiP in EV Boost mode, the gas engine rpm stays very low, so is the engine sound. It sounds like it is just idling since it revs at 1,000 rpm.
When I am going 75 mph, the engine revs at very low rpm and I had a hard time keeping it below 80 mph. My mind is tricked into believing I am going slower than the actual speed. I think I am using the sound of the engine to judge the speed or something.
It felt like I am driving a different car, one with two more cylinders.
EV Boost is when you are in EV and go above 65 mph. ICE comes on and blend gas with electricity.
Is it just me? What are your experience in the EV Boost / Blended mode?
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I have a 2001 toyota prius. When I start the car and press on the gas pedal the engine rev's but nothing moves and there is some clatter from the engine. I can put it in B mode and drive it a short distance, but that's it.... The engine light has been coming off and on for a week now. It makes a loud audible tone and then I turn it off and back on and then it stops.
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Every time I turn the car on, the "from start" fuel economy reading resets to 15l/100k. After driving for a while it goes down to 4l/100k but then resets back to 15 once the car is turned off. Is there any way to get it to stay at what it finished at?
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