Prius C Fuel :: How ICE Shuts On And Off Efficiently
Dec 16, 2013
I've only had my Prius C for a few days.
I'd like to know more about how the ICE shuts on and off efficiently. As a teenager, I was told it was a waste of time to turn a car's engine on and off to save gas. Now, I've got a car that turns its ICE off every minute or two!
I did some searching on YouTube, but couldn't find anything that talked about this. I suspect there is some special injection scheme to pull this off.
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I can't quite owkr out what is going on, but my A/C sometimes seems to be working too well and other not so good. For instance, last night I got in the car, 95 outside, and inside the A/C was going flat out (set to 65). The air from the middle vent on the passager side was very cold, from the drivers side it did not even feel cold and in the back also not cold. After 10 minutes of driving the car was barely acceptable. Went flying for 2 hours, came back, now temp outside was down to 90 and the car got cold very quickly (<5 mins).
In summary it would appear that if I do a lot of stop start driving, the A/C looses efficiency.
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for the past week we have been trying to figure out what is wrong with our truck. We recently bought it and it ran fine. Then got in a minor accident just a fender bender and it started acting up so I got towed to garage. First it would run when cold, but when hot fuel pressure would drop to 28 psi.
So I put new fuel pump, it started but still did the same thing hot 28 psi fuel pressure shuts off. So I put regulator on it, then had 0 fuel pressure won't even start. So got a another regulator thinking I got a bad one, still 0. Checked relay, there fine. I'm gonna check lines and see where fuel stops at but everything is new on it.
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06/2003 Touareg V8 Driver side fuel pump shut off after 15-20 sec after start is that normal? I know that the passenger side is stuck and needs to be replaced but just wanting to be sure that the driver side pump is supposed to act like this.
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Ever since i have had my car i have had a slight problem re-fueling. The pressure inside the tank doesn't seem to vent correctly and the filler neck seems to back up with fuel and shuts off the pump (too much back pressure) when i'm only ~30% full. I can elevate the problem by re-fuelling slow enough so that the pressure can vent back through the filler neck but it gets rather annoying to sit at the pump for 10 minutes re-fueling.
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So it has happened twice now that gas will NOT go into the tank on my 2001 Saturn L200. The pump immediately shuts off and gas spills out. From some research I believe there is a kinked hose but where and why did this happen 2 months ago and then now after several fill ups between. The first time it happened the problem fixed itself after sitting for a day, I guess I'll find out today if that is the case.
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Lately, the ICE has occasionally been vibrating or knocking a bit just before it shuts off. It seems to be more noticeable when the car has just stopped at an intersection.
The humidity here is higher than normal for Colorado. The temperature is in the 80s F, so it's not a cold weather issue.
I've been driving through more water than usual due to the recent flooding here. I wonder if that has something to do with it.
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My headlights (mainly right, but sometimes left) would sometimes turn off by itself... if it turns off, I would then manually switch off the headlight and switch it back on (right away), and both headlights would come back on... I'm not sure what is causing this, and had thought it was a defective bulb. I went and bought new bulbs, but it doesn't seem like it's the bulbs that are causing it.
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We have a 2008 Prius with 11,000 miles ,which is new to us for about 2 months now.
My wife and I both have noticed a "shudder of the car - when the motor shuts down" at a stop light or whenever needed. It seems a little bit more noticeable than in the previous two months of driving it.
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Our 2012 prius three is a huge hassle to refuel because the auto shut off on any gas pump is triggered repeatedly regardless of how much fuel is in the car. This happens anywhere I fill up and the only way to get gas in is by slowing the flow to a trickle and restarting the pump each time it shuts off (perhaps 30 times per refueling).
The dealer says it requires a complete replacement of the tank but I'm still not clear on what's causing the problem.
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It will sync for about 10-30 seconds, then the car's Bluetooth just shuts off. It's not my phone, as the BT on my phone is working with everything else. I have unpaired, re-paired, shut everything down. It starts up again for that 10-30 seconds, and then it shuts off. Do I need to take it to the dealer?
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I've been experimenting with 'B' mode while commuting. While stopped at a light, the ICE never shuts down. Is that normal? It seems like it should, regardless of the drive mode. The ICE was fully warmed up (190 F). I believe the battery was fully charged, as well. It tends to stay charged while in B mode.
If I switch from Drive to B while stopped at a light, the ICE stays off until the car starts moving. But if it was in B mode already, it never shuts down when the car is stopped.
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I haven't been able to successfully jump my 2010 Prius. It sat for about a month and the 12v battery is dead. I've connected everything up as described in the manual. I've kept the second car at about 2K RPM for about 5 minutes to charge the Prius. I am able to get the Prius to start up just fine, but as soon as I disconnect the jumper cables, it dies right away. I've tried getting the Prius engine to come on for several minutes, but as i understand it, there's no alternator, so that's probably not charge the 12V battery.
I've gone through this cycle about three times now with the same results. Every posting I've seen doesn't indicate anything special needed after you disconnect the cables. Is there something I'm missing?
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I rebuilt the HV battery w/(tested) Gen II cells on a 2001 that I purchased cheap knowing that the HV was bad.
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The inverter failed on my 2010 Prius. Toyota had recalled this on previous models, but not the 2010 Gen III.. When it fails the car shuts itself off while you are driving. Luckily I was not on the freeway but was still nearly rear ended and was lucky to get off the road with no power.
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Since I cannot program addresses into the NAV system while my wife drives the car (or vice versa), I tried to just program them in while the car was parked on the driveway. However the car shuts itself off after about 2 minutes regardless of what I'm doing. I figure if I put the car into drive it would work, but I was charging at the time so the car wouldn't let me.
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I have a 2012 Prius. It has twice shut down spontaneously when idling while in traffic. I have explained this, the Service Advisor said he had never heard of it. My question is: why is this happening? The car has been properly serviced. It never happened with my 2006 Prius.
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My girlfriend has a 2010 prius with the navigation package. We go to the drive in movies quite frequently because it's cheaper and close to us. Every 30-45 minutes the prius will automatically shut off the battery. The interior lights turn on and the sound goes off.
We are kind of getting tired of getting dirty looks when this happens. So we're wondering if there is a way to take this setting off.
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It appears that my drivers side low beam on my 08 prius shuts off from time to time. It seems to be during the rain, or damp weather. how can i figure out where the break in the wire is, if it is not clearly visible, OR is there a common site that separates in this model.
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This morning I realized that there is a pattern to our Prius incidents. What Sarah experienced last week is the same that Amy experienced when she drove the car the first day we bought it.
1. January: Amy had driven 20 highway miles with no problem. Park for 10 minutes. Started and crossed to the median of a two-lane Highway. stopped to wait. When tried to go, nothing. Will not move. 10 minutes later tried again and car worked fine for a long time after that.
1a. The car still had the original auxiliary battery. tested and found 12V battery weak. Replaced original battery with Duracell AGM vented battery for Prius. Car drove fine for weeks after this.
2. May: car sat all day. Turn on. Drove across parking lot. then noticed red triangle, VSC, brake warning lights all on. Lots of codes including high-voltage battery, transmission, and others.
3. drove fine for one week. Then going 60 miles per hour up a slight hill. heard the internal combustion engine shutdown. Red triangle, VSC, brake warning light came on. Reduced or no power steering or brakes. Coasted off the road. After 10 minutes, it drove fine again.
3a. I cleaned high voltage battery cooling fan. Drove fine for 10 days.
4. June: Sarah drove 10 minutes. Drove to stop sign. Had to wait 5 minutes for lots of traffic. When ready to pull out, push the accelerator, internal combustion engine shut down and the car would not move. Would not go into reverse. Put in neutral, and enough slope to roll backward to side of road. waited a few minutes, and it drove fine again.
Codes WERE P0A0F engine failed to start and c1300 anti-lock brake. the same codes were thrown in the previous incident. Noticed engine coolant a little low and added more.
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How do you warm up? I turn it on and it might start the engine for a few seconds then shut off... How do I know it's ready and warm?
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