Prius C Fuel :: Brake And Gas Charging
Sep 7, 2012
Dude charges the battery in drive by pressing the brake and gas. Why would you ever do this?
View 9 RepliesDude charges the battery in drive by pressing the brake and gas. Why would you ever do this?
View 9 Replieswhy the engine keep running but no charging and no driving? the car was down hill, the battery was fully charged (green), I did not accelerate ( my foot was not on the paddle), but the engine sometimes keep running with a very low gas consumption. this become more often in winter, even when car stopped. I would like to know is this normal for Prius or there is any I can do to improve this?
View 11 RepliesProblem with my '86 Celica's charging system. Car has about 135,000 miles and original alternator and belt. It is usually driven once or twice a week, but after sitting about 10 days, the tail light, brake, and battery warning lights came on when I started it. The lights went out after a minute. This same sequence of events happened the next three times I started the car that day. The fourth time, the lights went out but came back on as I drove. I found that revving the engine to between two and three thousand RPM made the light go off, but it sometimes came back on. And the engine revving isn't a sure thing now. Hit and miss. My wife and I have been trying to diagnose the problem.
When the warning lights are on, the dash voltmeter is near the bottom of the operating range. After revving and the lights going off, the voltmeter jumps up near the top of the normal operating range indicating the battery is charging.
The belt is checkered on the inside but not frayed. It deflected about 7/16ths inch midway between two pulleys about 17" apart. The Haynes manual said 1/2 inch was maximum deflection for that span. No unusual noises from the alternator.
We ran a checklist from my Haynes manual but I think it has an error in it. Here are the two steps that don't make sense. I marked the parts that seem to contradict with asterisks.
h) Disconnect the battery cables (negative first, then positive). Inspect the battery posts and the cable clamps for corrosion. Clean them thoroughly if necessary. Reconnect the cable to the negative terminal.
i) With the key off, insert a test light between the negative battery post and the disconnected negative cable clamp.
1) If the test light does not come on, reattach the clamp and proceed to the next step.
2) If the test light comes on, there is a short in the electrical system of the vehicle. The short must be repaired before the charging system can be checked.
3) Disconnect the alternator wiring harness.
(a) If the light goes out, the alternator is bad.
(b) If the light stays on, pull each fuse until the light goes out (this will tell you which component is shorted)."
Well, we decided that the last instruction in Step h should be to reconnect the POSITIVE cable (but could be wrong). I did this and we did Step i as written. The light came ON (Step 2). Disconnect the alternator wires at two points. Light stayed ON. Pulled every fuse under the hood and on the kick panel by the clutch. Light stayed ON.
The battery is near the end of its warranty period--about two-year old DieHard. Voltage at the terminals is about 12.4V with key out, about the same with ignition on but not running, the same with engine running and the dash lights showing, and about 14.5V after I get the dash lights to go off and the battery starts charging.
So, we're at a standstill. Tests say the tension on the belt is okay. The test light testing indicates the alternator is okay and the test light stayed on as fuses were pulled. The key was out of the ignition during the testing, but there are circuits that work without the key (brakes, hazard, headlights, etc.). Is the belt maybe slipping even though it is within specs on tension? What about the contradiction in the Haynes testing?
I have a 2002 Prius with about 150,000 miles on it. A couple weeks ago, I noticed that the parking brake light on my instrument cluster didn't light up when I engaged it. Soon, all 10 bars on the fuel gauge started blinking. The seat belt reminder, open door warning, and headlight indicator lights aren't working, either. Any clues as to what could be causing all these malfunctions, or have I had more than one problem develop in close succession?
View 6 Replieswhat is the 12v charging amperage of the gen II Inverter?
i just bought a 07 Prius with 43k
i am into ham radio and i will be installing a handfull of ham radios, including one that on high power can draw as much as 20 amps from 12v system during transmit.
all the radios in receive mode together draw about 6 amps.
im used to traditional alternator ratings of 50 70 90 and 100+ amps but upon searching this site, i have found no info about the 12v battery charging systems amperage output.
any one have specs on the 12v charging system output?
I just got a 2004, it did have a bad 12V battery which I did replace, still not charging.But First it is making a loud noise under the hood sounds like towards the right side.when I accelerate starts at 18 to 20 miles per hour. Tried sitting still with car in gear and pushing accelerator can not get it to make the noise that way, without the wheels rotating.
View 17 RepliesPrius Five 2012 fully loaded in Blizzard Pearl. A/C keep changing mode from face/head only to feet every 2-3 minutes on its own. Auto button light is off and this continues..... I've stumped all the dealers, no one has a fix.
View 11 RepliesI am thinking of upgrading to a pip. I work in my car and was wondering if I plug it in can I still have the a/c running while it is plugged in or not? i read somewhere that if you turn the car into ready mode the systems won't allow it.
View 6 RepliesI don't own a Prius, but my parents own two identical 2002 models (each with 120k miles).
My mother's car wasn't driven for nearly a month (hip replacement), and when they tried to start it last week, the ready light would blink 3 times - but no cranking.
After taking it to the dealer, they were quoted $4600 to replace the traction battery and ECU. We did the mandatory research on rebuilt batteries, but with only a vague diagnosis from the dealer, we were not convinced that this was the (only) problem.
So, my brother and I decided to swap the ECU, then the battery from my father's working Prius to my mother's - thereby proving the issue. Upon removing the 'dead' battery from mother's car, I decided to open the module, and check each battery. We measured anywhere from 3.0 to 6.4V on the individual cells - and 7.0V to 11V on the paired cells. It was clear that the batteries had discharged unevenly. The total charge remaining was about 151V - still above the 40% SOC minimum I'd read about.
We then bought 5 x 10A chargers from Walmart, and connected each to a pair of modules. Set the charge to rapid (10A) and waited 30 minutes (or until the charger indicated full). After 2 hours, all 19 pair were charged fully - with each reporting 15.7V +/- 0.5V. The total power was about 295V.
We reassembled the battery, re-installed it, and the car started immediately. We let it sit running, until it cycled off on its own. About 5 min later, the ICE fired again to charge the 12V battery - but it threw a P3006 error code. It showed a PS + MAIN + battery icon on the MFD. Using an OBDII scan tool, we cleared the error, and drove the car for a few miles. The error code did not return during that drive - but did one more time after letting it cycle off/on automatically. After clearing the code a second time, it never repeated again.
My assumption is that the 300V HV charge was above the 80% SOC and it didn't like that. But after a few cranking cycles, and the tendency for the battery to discharge back to it's rated output, the error no longer repeated.
Is there anyway to charge a couple of batt cells by running the car.
Just replaced 2 packs and there voltage is 2-3 volts lower than the rest of the batt packs? the ones replaced are at 14.5 to 15 where the others are at 17-18 volts.
Have a 2009 with 25K on it, purchased in April when they were practically giving them away. Recently did an oil change and got snow tires, then left my husband in car with heat on for 20+ minutes, and now mileage is in the 30's and the battery isn't charging itself or regenerating. What could be going on?
View 6 RepliesI have got Prius 2004. I have got a problem. With MFD. It's showing the screen where it should show that the battery is charging but it's not showing the charging at all. Car is running fine and starts as normal. I have changed the 12V battery but it's still not showing the charging.
View 6 RepliesRight now my husband and I are driving from San Luis Obispo Ca to LA and back in a day. We noticed right before the grape vine on the I5 that the engine was really working, even on flat ground. Looked at the battery and it was purple. We have been driving for about 2 hours averaging about 70mph on mostly flat land. The battery finally charged itself on the big downhill of the grapevine (I5) but we're noticing we're running right through it again unless we start to break more. So, it's not getting any recharge during driving, just breaking. Can it be the generator? What causes this?
View 5 RepliesRecently we went on trip requiring a 3 hour ferry ride. Decided to keep it in READY to listen to the stereo and maintain a minimal level of heat. I noticed the engine kicking on and no arrows from or to anywhere. The HV battery gauge was mostly down to 2-3 bars but still no arrows. There were times that it kicked on and the arrows showed the batteries being charged too. Was the engine kicking on without charging just to maintain the engine coolant temp to provide heat for the cabin, or what?
View 4 RepliesIt appears as though my car is charging just slightly when I'm driving and my foot is neither on the accelerator or the brake. Is this normal?
Also, this light is on. I'm not sure what this is....
Meant to post this for a while but on both the Prii C's I have owned, I mostly only see the arrow on the HSI going towards the battery and not the other way to assist the engine. My wife watched it while I drove the last 2 days and it never went to the engine except when driving in EV.
On my regular size Prius I had, I saw it going to the engine way more than the C,
I set my charging time with the buttons in the car (dash) to charge from midnight to 3am. I plug in the car and the car will not charge until midnight. Perfect. I drive it. Then the next night I go to plug in the car and it starts charging right away.
View 5 RepliesI was wondering how I would charge my gen 1 battery cells and balance them with my IMAX b6 lipro battery charger. Every time I try to charge it or hook it up the thing keeps saying "input vol error". Now I don't know if that means I need a different ac adapter since I'm now using a 19.5 v laptop charger and most of the time they use a 12v ac adapter.
Most of the cells have a reading under 6v but we have 38 new cells coming in today. How we can balance them with this charger because I know it has a balance charge setting for the lithium batteries. That has a separate plug though. Should we just put the cells closest to their voltages and have them balanced that way?
How to connect the EVSE without charging? I'm planning to be away for a couple of days and I want to leave it plugged in but keeping the battery empty. Then I want to start the charging remotely so that when I get back, I can immediately drive off with a full charge. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to figure out a way to connect the EVSE w/o charging.
View 7 RepliesMy 01 Prius is not charging the 12V battery and I have error code P3001. Everyone on here said P3001 is the HV battery ECU. (which I replaced with one from the Junk Yard and still get the error code)
I charged the 12V battery over night and Autozone says that its ok. They tested it with a little machine. The only other thing I can think of is that the Inverter DC-DC converter part is bad. How I can test that? (is there a way other than replace the inverter?)
Had my Prius since Saturday. First charge on Sunday. Charged fully, when turning it on saw the Charge result prompt. But I charged it Monday, saw the orange light, went out 3 hours later, light was off, unplugged it, blah blah.
But when I went out and drove it today, it didn't have the charge result indicator (actually, I wasn't looking) but I know it wasn't charged cuz it didn't go into EV mode.