I just turned 3000 miles on my C. I started the car and the engine chugged and knocked like I have never experienced. I turned off the engine and restarted and no problem.
View 10 RepliesI just turned 3000 miles on my C. I started the car and the engine chugged and knocked like I have never experienced. I turned off the engine and restarted and no problem. What gives?
View 10 RepliesI have a f 150 2006 4.2 liter (basic truck standard) 60.000 km. Yesterday the engine just started chugging and quit I changed the fuel filter. I turned the engine over and the pump did not work when the filter was off so i pushed the emergency shut off button still nothing one question is i pushed the button in it didn't click or anything is that how it works? I have checked all the fuses and grounds what would cause the fuel pump not to work? Or what should I check next?
View 5 RepliesDriving home the other day I noticed some vibrations up front. Reminded me of out of balance wheels. Then the check engine light started blinking. Then it was on steady, then blink, then steady... Took it easy the rest of the way home. Code reader said P0138 Oxygen sensor circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 2, and P0304 Cylinder 4 misfire detected. At home is where I saw the engine shaking and extra noise from it (visions of piston rod slapping around in there). Removed plugs (original? tough to get out!), compression tested all 4 cylinders (130 to 140), new spark plugs (had they been in there for 196K miles?). Start engine and same, shake shake with some extra noises that weren't there before (car just sitting in driveway).
View 6 RepliesOne evening, I started my car but it shut off right after 2 3 seconds, then check engine light and battery light came ON.
Started again, it ran like normal with check engine light ON. After 2 3 miles, car started chugging & surging before the engine shut off completely. Started again, it ran just fine.
Next day, I took my car to the shop. They found out that P0351, 0352, 0353, 0355, 0356 codes. Then, they replaced 5 ignition coils for $600. But the problem was still there.
I took my car to the shop again, they replaced 2 variable timing valves. Cost $400. Unfortunately, it would not solve the problem. Third solution, they replaced my timing belt. Problem remained unsolved.
However, the check engine light turned itself off when my car ran fine. It turned back on again when my car started chugging & surging and stopped. It has been happening for 1 month. 2 3 times a day, especially in the early morning when the weather is cold and the evening.
At noon, my car just runs fine without any problems, even the check engine light turned itself OFF.
I have a 05 f250 with a 5.4 I'm having issues with I was driving along the truck started chugging along and the check engine light came on so I checked it with my bully dog the codes that came up were p0192 which is fuel pressure sensor circuit low the next one is p0452 is evaporative emission pressure sensor switch low also came up with p0191 tonight haven't dug into that yet.
I change out the pressure sensor switch from a buddies truck didn't make a difference put my sensor in his truck his worked fine I clean the throttle position sensor and The maf also put a new air filter on not throwing a misfire code but seems like it may be. A little background on the truck it's a 5.4 3valve with a bully dog tuner, mufflers been removed added straight pipe mechanically that's all that's done
I posted about this back when I bought it back in Feb. and I thought the problem worked itself out but its back. When the temperature drops below 55 degrees or so, coming from the passenger side of the engine there is a chugging or knocking sound, more so when RPMs are high.
I had no issues with it all summer, but now that the temperature is dropping I noticed its back. Is this something I should worry about? What could be causing this? I had the same engine in my 07 and it never did this.
So our 2012 with 55k miles started knocking and now it's really bad. Started about 5-10k miles ago.
View 14 RepliesI have 2012 Camry 4 cyl. Recently I changed the oil from 5w20 to 0w20 as recommended for this car. But after I put 0w20 oil in my car the engine started knocking as if there is a continuous slap in the engine. I had ordered this car from the USA but I live in Turkey. Some ppl say I if I put 5w30 oil the noise will disappear. Camry is not sold in Turkey so the mechanics do not understand the problem. What should I do?
View 12 RepliesI was driving the other day, and all of a sudden it started with this horrible knocking sound. I have never heard the sound before. I remember back in the day, with a 67 buick rivera, that if the oil got low, the engine would knock, and this kind of sounded the same, but more high pitched and clicky. I checked the oil first thing and there is plenty in there - in fact, I had just checked and put oil in it about two weeks before.
I have not always kept up with the oil changes, and sometimes the oil level was pretty low. My sons tell me that the sound seems to be coming from the top of the engine, and it's probably toast, a rod knock. I parked it, and figured i will get it looked at in a few months, when I'm better able to pay for diagnostics.
Last week, my van started chugging and the keydance code indicated random misfire. I changed the front spark plugs and wires and it ran a little better but still showed the error. Took it to my trusted mechanic and he changed the back 3 wires and plugs and the coil pack. Code now showed misfire on one of the back cylinders(I forgot which one). 2 Mechanics both confirmed good spark and gas at the cylinder. He is saying that there is a mechanical problem in the cylinder and the fix would be over $1k.
The van has over 250k on it so it's not worth the engine work. I asked about a compression test and was told that it's almost impossible to test the rear cylinders without doing a ton of work, and that they are 95% sure that it is a mechanical problem with the cylinder. I've known the mechanic for over 20 years and he is an honest guy, and knows that I won't do the expensive repair, so he's not trying to rip me off.
I don't have the facilities or knowledge to do the work, so it looks like I'm screwed. Is there anything else that I should be doing before I write the van off? It does run, but very rough at low speed, and no power at high speed, and mech says that the unburned gas will eventually screw things up.
I had a can of fuel at home that had been siting around a while but I put it in my 02 F350 with the 7.3. hind site being 20/20 I shouldn't have done that. The truck only made it about 2 miles then started chugging and eventually quit. So I pulled the truck home and this is what I have done so far. I assumed that I had bad fuel so I started with a new fuel filter. I did notice that the fuel in the bowl was a milky white color. Not sure what that means. But the new filter did not work as the truck will not start. So after reading some other posts I decided to drop the fuel tank and clean everything.
I did that including cleaning out the 2 screens in the fuel pick up. After re installing the tank I put new clean fuel in the tank and primed the truck. But before starting it I drained the first amount of fuel out of the filter bowl just to make sure I got all of the bad fuel out of the lines. So after doing this I put a new filter in and primed the motor again. I appear to be getting good fuel pressure and the fuel looks very clean now at the bowl. But the truck does not even attempt to start. It turns over just fine but will not start. Some advice I can get before I have it towed to a shop. Also, the truck currently has 305,000 on it and has run great up till now.
First post since I bought my powerstroke. I was looking for some diagnostics.
On my way to work this morning and the truck started chugging like it was wanting to die and had no power, the pedal was to the floor and I was barely moving. I was able to nurse it to a parking space at work and pulled the codes, using the Torque pro. This was what I pulled:
P0284 - Cylinder #8 contribution/balance
P0299 - Underboost
P0611 - FICM
P0401 - EGR
P0671 - Cylinder 1 glow plug
On the way home I didn't even hit 5 miles and started into the same symptoms. So I decided to call for a tow, because my commute is about 60 miles one way. In waiting for the tow truck I disconnected the batteries and reconnected them thinking that it might "reset" something. I started it up and the same thing occurred, so I tried revving it up, and starting it up and shutting it down on and off for about an hour. Thinking I picked up some bad fuel. Drove it for a short distance and found things were getting better. I was able to make it home and pulled the codes again. It came up with these:
P0284
P0603 - Internal Control Mod.
P0611
P1000
Also on the ride home I had excessive amounts of black smoke from the exhaust and found a couple of large drops of oil on the driveway where i normally park, larger than what I normally see.
So my question would be what is the cause of all of this?
A little about the truck. it is a F250 CCSB with about 139xxx miles on the clock. I bought it from my brother when he had it he had the FICM replaced (with the 58V option) and the Bullet proof EGR installed. I replaced the fuel spring with the blue one shortly after I bought it.
Lately, the ICE has occasionally been vibrating or knocking a bit just before it shuts off. It seems to be more noticeable when the car has just stopped at an intersection.
The humidity here is higher than normal for Colorado. The temperature is in the 80s F, so it's not a cold weather issue.
I've been driving through more water than usual due to the recent flooding here. I wonder if that has something to do with it.
After starting my Prius the engine was knocking and shaking. After running the engine for 30 - 45 seconds it operated normally. The car is always parked in our garage and the outside temperature was approx 32 degrees or a few colder. I have 30750 miles on the car.
View 1 RepliesJust DIY'd the first oil change on my new 2013 Prius at 2100 miles. When I first started the engine after the oil change, it was knocking and sounded a little rough for about 5-10 seconds.
View 19 RepliesI had a toyota prius gen 3 last year where it had an engine knocking sound, where I tried every TSB and changed the spark plugs, spark plug cables, intake manifold, engine knots..... etc., nothing worked except the following video which solved the knocking completely with no return.
View 12 RepliesYesterday, while at the store. I started my 2004 prius and the engine was making some crazy knocking noises. I went to auto zone and pulled the codes. It said random cylinder misfire and misfire on cylinders 2,3, and 4.
View 1 RepliesI took my car for the engine knocking at 34xxx miles to the dealer here in NJ. They mentioned it was the EGR that was clogged, so they replaced it. 2 weeks after that, the same incident happened whenever it wasn't allowed to warm up. This time the dealer diagnosed it with having a hole in piston #1? To make the story short, i received my car 2 days ago with a brand new engine from toyota. I tried to re-create the same issue, and it would not happen. Could this be resolved once and for all.
View 19 RepliesInitially thought that this was related to some water in the tank, since it started when the gas dropped to 1 bar (already put some stuff HEET when put the whole tank, did 60miles so far). ODB throws out multiple cylinder misfire (codes 300, 301, 302, 303 etc). It lasts up to 3 seconds. Sometimes the check engine pops up sometimes it doesn't. there was absolutely no problem under load. does it seem like a fairly common problem ? Intake manifold clogged ?
View 14 RepliesI started my Gen 4 Prius two yesterday and got out to adjust a bolt on the rear license plate and noticed a strange sound as the ICE in high throttle began the warm-up cycle- a sound like water sloshing around in the cat converter (or somewhere upstream?). Other new Gen 4 owners please check this and see if you hear this on startup. It is not regular enough a sound to be engine knocking, but literally like water churning. Not loud enough to hear from anywhere but right near the lower rear of the car. Hear this on new 2016? My Gen 3 never had this sound.
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