Prius C :: Engaging Engine Braking (B) Function Causing Brake Light To Come?
Apr 8, 2012
When engaging the engine braking ( B ) function on the Prius IV, do the brake lights come on to warn the driver behind me that I'm slowing down?
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Apr 8, 2012
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Prius (2004-09) :: 2007 - Brake Seemed To Engage Then Disengage Causing Engine To Stutter And Surge
Is there a correlation between a Prius sitting in the hot sun and the computer malfunctioning? When I came out from a movie yesterday, the temps read 106 degrees outside the car. The emergency brake light was on, though the brake was off. I pumped the brake on/off a couple of times, but the light stayed on. As I pulled out, the brake seemed to engage, then disengage causing the engine to stutter and surge. The service tech today tells me the computer is not communicating and at 50,000 miles. Is it worth the money to get the new computer? Will the car be safe afterwards?
View 2 RepliesSonata I45 (LF 2015+) :: Hard Braking Causing Engine Vibration / Buzz
I've been noticing that when I need to make a hard stop, I will feel a sudden engine vibration for about 1 second as soon as it comes to a complete stop. The same feeling you might get when the RPM drops too low. It only does it for like 1 second though. I am not sure if it is the gears shifting down that is causing this. I won't feel it if I am making a gradual slow stop. Only fast sudden stops.
View 27 RepliesPrius (2001-03) :: 2002 - Battery Causing False Check Engine Light To Come On?
I have a 2002 prius with 143,000 miles. On Friday, I went to start my car and put it in gear and the check engine light came on and the "triangle of death" lit up and car died. I turned it off and waited about 30 seconds and tried starting it again. It started and I drove 1/2mile home. Went into the garage and got the Actron/OBDII code reader. Pulled the code P3125 which when I googled it, it was referring to the inverter. I cleared the code and all was well.
View 6 RepliesPrius (2010-12) :: Brake Lights Not Consistently Lighting Up With Very Light Braking
On my way into work this morning I noticed that my brake lights don't always light up under very light braking. Noticed this on 2010?
View 3 RepliesPrius (2004-09) :: Intermittent Engine Light While Braking / Driving
I have a 2008 Prius. It has been giving me an engine light intermittently while I am driving. My mechanic could not get an error code to show. It mostly happens while braking or while driving a right hand curve on roads at speed. What might be happening?
View 3 RepliesPrius (2004-09) :: Extra Brake Pedal Travel Before Engaging Properly
I have a gen II Prius 2007 with 115,000 miles on it ...
When I use my brakes at low speeds under 15 mph, there is a bit of extra brake travel before they engage properly ...
Mazda - Tribute :: O2 Sensors Causing Check Engine Light To Come On
I have a 2001 Mazda Tribute with 141,000 miles. Recently, I've burned up both O2 sensors causing the check engine light to come on. My mechanic has replaced each and they've burned out again. The head gasket was replaced after that, to no avail. The check engine light continues to come on after being cleared in the computer. I have also noticed that on humid days, the car misfires on at least one cylinder., but any other time, it seems fine. What to check next? My mechanic is at a loss.
View 2 RepliesAccent LC (2000-05) :: AC Causing Sputtering / Backfire And Check Engine Light
2001 GL 1.5 Litre. Car occasionally hesitates a little with AC off, but runs pretty well. But with the air conditioner on?
Stalls about 50% of time when backing with A/C on. From stoplights, sputters all the way through intersections with A/C on, sometimes backfires. On a few occasions, the Check Engine light will blink on and off while it's doing this. After it gains a little speed/rpm, though, it's all good again, light goes back off.
Had full tune-up just before we bought it 4,000 miles ago. Air filter clean. Not sensors, because the CEL goes back off by itself. What the heck? How could the A/C cause a backfire?
Dodge - Neon :: 1997 - Check Engine Light Has Been On And Causing Random Misfire
I have a 1997 Dodge Neon with about 153,XXX miles on it. My check engine light has been on and i know that is caused by a random misfire. But more recently i went to start my car and it started but ran for less then 10 seconds and died. I tried to start it again and it wanted to but wouldnt make the final step i guess. We checked my spark plugs and i had oil sitting in 3 of the 4 there are. We have tried starting it again after cleaning the oil out and it started on the first try, I am just afraid of messing anything else up so until we figure out why it did this to begin with the vehicle is off limits. My Fiance said we need to replace the spark plugs and a gasket.
View 4 RepliesSonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Cylinder Misfiring Causing Bad Vibration And Check Engine Light
While driving up a long hill on the highway, one of the cylinders quit firing causing a bad engine vibration and check engine light. I turned around and drove home, pulled the plugs, and found the plug closest to the passenger side had bridged. I'm not sure why; it almost looked like it melted or had some sort of physical damage. This was on a 2013 Sonata Limited 2.0t with 45000 km / 28500 miles.
Pictures here: Spark plug failure - Album on Imgur
Prius (2004-09) :: Cruise Control Light On Dash Flashes But Won't Function
About 2 months ago ('06 Prius - 386K) 12v battery was replaced - red triangle disappeared and everything has been fine. ( I have driven the car about 7K since replacement).
Now on my 2800 mile trip, the following is happening. With Cruise Control on and functioning - freeway traffic comes to an almost halt (5-8 mph) after traffic picks up Cruise Control light on dash is flashing and will not function. (Pull over and re-boot the Win95 machine - and everything is back to working until next slow down).
I am now driving on a service road to my hotel at approx. 25mph and as I go over every patch in the asphalt my Traction Control light comes on and then off and it makes the car act like it is on ice ( and yes the Cruise Control light is back to flashing).
On my journey on this 5 miles of access road then my stereo volume starts going up and down all on its own. If I try turning the volume knob nothing happens. I push the knob in and then push on the knob to come back out and then the volume knob works and then the volume control on the steering wheel starts to work as well.
Prius (2001-03) :: Won't Start / Multi Function Goes Off / Ready Light Doesn't Come On?
Multi function goes off and ready light doesn't come on when turn key to start.
View 1 RepliesGolf IV / Jetta IV :: 2005 TDI - ABS Engaging During Slow Speed Braking
Mk4 2005 TDI 190,00 KM
Background: Purchased this car couple months ago. Did a bunch of maintenance, including rear pads/rotors, fronts still good. Also decide to bleed the system while I had the car on jacks. Followed Bentley procedure as I have previously, using a pressure bleeder making sure to stay at 12 psi and kept the reservoir topped up at all times. First I did the clutch slave, brakes and last I did VAG com procedure to bleed the ABS unit. Upon completion pedal felt good and I took it for drive ..
Brakes worked fine under normal braking force but when the car was slowing down and coasting to a stop with my foot on the brake (light pressure) the ABS engaged briefly(speed around 10-15km /h) right before the car came to a stop. Assumed maybe air in the system so re-bleed the ABS pump again .. Nothing same ABS kicks in right before stopping .. Cleaned all speed sensors and rings .. Nothing, still happening.
Recap:
-ABS does not engage under regular braking force, brakes work fine.
-ABS engages under light braking pressure right before complete stop. (ie parking car or pulling into a drive way)
So my question is, is it possible an ABS sensor out of the 4 is causing this? How about the brake switch? I know that on older VWs used to be 2 pin but this one is 4. Is it possible there is ABS pump problem? Air still in the system? Master cylinder?
Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: Transmission Started Going Into Limp Mode And Causing Check Engine Light To Come On
2002 Santa Fe, 2.7 AWD
The transmission has started going into limp mode and causing the check engine light to come on.
The codes given are p0750 and.... I think p0751, for shift solenoids C and D. There is also the generic Transmission Control Module code.
Limp mode only occurs at higher speeds although shifting feels a little rough at times in lower speeds.
If operated in manual mode the vehicle can be driven normally at all speeds without going into limp mode.
Fluid levels are fine.
With limp mode occurring in automatic but not occurring in manual mode, is it more reasonable to believe the solenoids are malfunctioning or the control module itself? I'm inclined to replace the solenoids but find it odd that the vehicle operates normally in manual. Also, can the solenoids be replaced without removing the transmission? It looks like I could get the pan off but am unsure if there is room to get the work done once it is removed.
Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Overfilling Trans Causing Hard Shifts - Check Engine Light Came On
Will overfilling transmission fluid cause hard shifts? I used ~4.3 quarts to refill. How much should I drain out? My check engine light came on.
Basically, I am having hard shifts from 2-3 and 3-4 in tip mode and auto. more tip mode tho.
-I did a complete solenoid change b/c of cold start problem with n92 solenoid.
Fixed the cold start shifting out of first.
-Did a trans fluid change with Mercon V ATF Fluid works fine.
-Just changed oil on 4th of July last week.
Yesterday my check engine light came on. It's been about 500 miles since the solenoid change/trans fluid change, and 100 miles since the oil change.
Now my Mk4 is having this obnoxious shifting. I am thinking I possibly added too much trans fluid into my system as I do not have the VAGcom tool.
I drained out (bone dry drain till no more dripping from check/drain plug), roughly 4 quarts. I added 4.3 give or take 0.1 quarts back into the car.
Now I'm worried because everywhere I'm reading says anywhere from as little as 2.1 quarts to 3.5 quarts.
Should I drain out 0.5 quarts (because I know theres over 4 in there now) to make it 3.5 quarts?
Or should I just redrain the whole thing and start by measure one quart at a time?
Prius (Gen 2) :: Spark Plug Porcelain Broken Up - Engine Is Causing Rattle Sound
So I was changing my spark plugs and 3 of 4 went smooth. but one of them was very tough to get out. after a little while it came out, but.... porcelain was broken up. looked down the hole and saw some pieces. Vacuumed it up with a small hose. saw the pieces come into the vacuum, but i don't think i got them all.
Started the engine and made a terrible rattle sound. turned it off and researched a bit. one hit was on here from a few years back, saying the car ran rough for a sec and then cleared up. Hoping it was kicked out the exhaust. I started it up let it run and it cleared up and idled smooth.
Drove it today and seems fine. Slight click noise when accelerating but not sure if that was there before or I am just being paranoid now. Called some places and they all said same...could have cleared through exhaust, stuck in catalytic converter, damaged the interior walls etc etc.
Camry :: Brake Light Works For Night Time But Not When Braking
2009 Camry LE: my rear brake light doesn't work when braking (fully lit), but it works okay for night-time mode (dimly lit).
This problem is affecting just the right side. The left side is okay for both braking (fully lit) and night-time mode (dimly lit).
Troubleshooting: my deduction led me to believe that my bulb is not burnt out and the wiring harness and fuse are okay because the bulb can be lit during night-time mode, just not when braking. I also think that my brake pedal switch is okay because my left-side brake light is fully lit when braking. I can only speculate it's a circuitry/logic board problem of some sort; I'm just not sure where I can locate the problem.
Nissan - Frontier :: 2001 - 3rd Brake Light Going Out / Dim And Flicker While Braking?
I have a 2001 NISSAN Frontier that the hi-mount third brake light appears the be going out. I've trie to remove the plastic light bezel but a clip is holding in the connector. I'm afraid to use too much force while pushing in the clip with a flat head screwdriver but that is the only thing I know to use. The lights are dim and seem to flicker as the brake pedal is pressed.
View 1 RepliesPrius (Gen 3) :: Hard Braking / Brake Rotors Become Rusty
I have never experienced what others have described as the brake delay issue, neither before nor after the ABS recall. I have even purposely driven over rough patches of road to try to duplicate.
After two days of rain, I noticed yesterday that my brake rotors were rusty. I remembered a comment from qbee42 about putting the car in neutral while braking in order to remove regenerative braking and to force friction braking to clean rusty rotors.
Yesterday I was approaching a stop light with plenty of distance and no one in front. I started braking around 45 mph with regenerative braking and then pulled the shift lever to neutral. When in neutral and with the regenerative braking removed, I felt the decrease in braking when transitioning to friction braking and I had to brake a little harder in order to have the same amount of braking as before in regenerative braking.
I can see where someone can "perceive" this as a surge forward but I only interpreted this as a decrease in braking force, as others have stated here many times.
I tried this again at the next stop light and felt the same "sensation" again and had to brake slightly harder when in neutral in order to have the same braking force. It was apparent to me that for the same brake pedal position that the friction brakes do not exert as much braking force as the same pedal position with regenerative braking.
Is this similar to what others are reporting as "brake delay" or "surge forward" issues?
Subaru - Brakes - Outback :: Anti-lock Braking System Engaging Noise When Speed Gets Low 5 - 15 MPH
I recently had my wheel hub and bearing replaced. The mechanic said I might hear a little noise with the brakes but they'd work. Turns out that noise is the Anti-lock braking system engaging every time I use the brakes. It happens when the car speed gets low, maybe 5-15 mph. Also, if I'm driving slow in a parking lot or something, and let off the gas, that change in speed sets the ABS system on too, without my foot being on the brake pedal.
I've also noticed sometimes when the weather is very cold, the ABS light will go on and the ABS brakes won't work; just regular brakes. Is this something that I'd be able to solve at home? Could I possibly bleed the brake lines to check for any air ( although braking seems fine ) , busted fuse for the system, anything else to check before asking the mechanic?