Prius C :: Electronic Sound Coming From The Battery After 75 Miles Trip
May 24, 2014
I drove my car on a short road trip yesterday. We drove 75 miles to one direction, were there for 5 hours and then came back on the same 75 miles. Everything was fine.
Now when I got home I went to sleep. I got up 7 hours later and went to go check on my car. It was locked as I always leave it and the keys were not in the ignition. But there was a distinct electronic sound coming from the battery. Like a small motor running. It was odd.
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I've had this car for a couple of years now and I think this week is the first time I didn't 'fill up' when I got gas. So now the trip computer is all confused on miles to empty vs the almost half tank I have on the fuel gauge. I've tried resetting the trip & holding the button to reset when miles to empty is displayed. I'm a little nervous with the miles to empty in the single digits now.
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The oil was changed by a highly reputable shop 2 days ago, (45 miles ago). My wife noticed today that the "Low Oil Pressure" red message flashed 3 times in the last 5 miles of her 10 mile trip (45-50 mph). She stopped the car and called me. I arrived at the parked Prius and saw no oil on the dipstick. I poured a quart of synthetic in and looked under the car to see it pouring out. My finger discovered that there was No Oil Plug. I called the shop and they sent a tow truck, put a new oil plug in, refilled the oil and claim no damage since "the Prius shuts off the gas engine when low oil pressure is sensed". Looking for information about this "shut off feature?" What should I ask from the shop? What should be tested & checked for? How do you test for damage to the bearings? How about a compression test? The car has 100K miles.
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The past week I have noticed my battery cooling fan running constantly on all highway trips - 20 mile one-way trips going 65-70MPH.
The performance of the battery doesn't seem be degraded, but it seems like the battery is hopping more between charging cycle or whatever you would call it , where you watch the instantaneous MPG on the highway drop down for 10 seconds to 40-50, then back up to 60-70.
The car is a 2011 Prius III. It did not run like this earlier in the summer in the same weather conditions, I would hear the fan maybe once every few weeks in hot 90 degree weather. Now I hear it constantly. This is my first summer owning the Prius so this may be normal, but I wanted to double check with you all if this is a sign of premature traction battery death or something.
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If you remove the battery contact (effectively removing power to the car) does the trip odometer reset? Just wondering, as I plan on doing a relay install for my HID setup.
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2008 Prius gen ll.. I had to take an unplanned out of state trip this week. For most of the highway time (2 days each way at +/- 65mph) the hybrid battery was almost always fully charged(green bars). The arrow every few seconds pointed towards the battery indicating charging even though the battery showed all green bars. Every now and then, several times per minute it would out pulse a short blast of energy to the system but not enough to bring it down to blue bars.
MPG was down about 10% . P>G didn't seem to except when I was in town. Taking my foot off the gas pedal didn't always result in the 99.9 indication unless I was going down an incline. I went from Northern Michigan to South Louisiana so temperature wasn't the culprit. The only thing different is that my 12v ignition battery failed just before leaving and the dealership replaced it.
At normal speeds, when I pulled off the interstate for gas/food/sleep the system worked OK, blue bars charging and discharging and good gas mileage. P&G worked normally. I've had this car for 5 years now and only a few times over that period have I noticed the hybrid battery fully green.
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The battery gauge on my 2007 seems to be dropping much faster than it used to. I can back out of my driveway with full green, and be down to purple in two miles of <45MPH driving. It also seems to recharge faster, as if the 'window' of usable charge has become much narrower.
I took it in for the 45K service, and asked the dealer to investigate. The tech wrote that everything is fine, and that this behavior is normal because "this is deep cycle battery".
Two questions: If the main battery fails completely, will the car still be driveable or will I be stranded at that point?
The little 12V battery is still the original that came with the car. Could it cause the above symptoms?
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I'm new to this technology. I bought 2008 t spirit prius . The battery drains in couple of miles. I don't know what to check .
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First time I've ever noticed it at least. And she's been on 2 huge x-country road trips with much hotter temps than the other day.
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My battery had died and i purchased a new one. Once i had put it into the car i noticed the trip computer no longer worked. The time reset to 12:00 like expected but i can no loner change the time. Its still illuminated at night but i can no longer monitor gas mileage etc. I looked in the manual but could find no answer. Is there a way to reset it?
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Yesterday night I got back from a tired long trip and forgot the light nob on fog light position. This afternoon I went out to the car the battery is dead.
I asked dealer but they claim this is a feature to leave side lights on if I left light nob at fog/side position while key is removed. I used to own a 2009 Corolla with auto light, it always turn off all lights regardless light switch position after key is removed.
Car model is 2010 Tiguan Hightline / SEL
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My car is an 05 and currently has 219,000 miles. Runs great. Only things I've replaced are the 12 volt battery and the rack and pinion. Replaced the rack because I was trying to drift in the snow and tried to beat the traction control. Needless to say, I lost and hit the curb. Jammed the gear in the left side of the rack. Replaced the rack with a $75 used one and no problems since.
My issue is this, even if my battery is at 6 bars when I first take off, my hybrid battery drains down to even as low as 1 bar. It only got down to 1 once but is hitting 2 regularly. After about 3-10 miles it is back to the regular charge rate. I also noticed the other day with the window down, there was a slight whirring sound, almost like a gear or wheel that is a gummed up and is being slowed down. It also felt like there was resistance, almost like the brake was dragging. After a few miles, as in less than 5, the noise was gone and the car was going along just fine. I've checked the emergency brake to see if it's dragging by applying it and releasing it several times. Does not appear to be the issue. Today I put it in neutral to see if that changed anything but it did like it always does and just coasted along fine with no resistance. My thought is the transmission. I'm wondering if the fluid it so old and broken down that maybe things are gumming up. Either way, I purchased the tranny fluid and will change that out. I know people will probably gasp but I have never changed it. Actually thought because it's a cvt and there is no dipstick to check it, that it doesn't need changed. After reading up yesterday I discovered I was mistaken.
I think that's about it. I'll edit it if I think of something more. Once the battery is back up to charge it accelerates and drives like normal. I do want the car to last so my daughter can use it when I buy the new Prius Prime.
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Trying to figure out whether to fix or scrap our 2005 Prius with 193,000 miles and a mysterious 12V battery problem. What would you do in my situation?
We've had a recurring problem with the 12V accessory battery: I have replaced it myself three times. The last failure was the most mysterious, because after replacing the 12V battery for the third time, I conducted nearly daily voltage tests using the Prius' "secret" vehicle signal check. Voltage coming off of the 12V was normal, if not high the entire time in all of the Prius's various starting and ready modes. I wired up a solar panel to trickle-charge the 12V battery when we weren't around, and we plugged the 12V in at night to a trickle charger to keep the battery topped up.
Nonetheless the day came a few months after the latest replacement when we had our usual 12V failure symptoms: the time on the clock started resetting, the car didn't turn on on the first press, the Prius computer rebooted, and eventually the car wouldn't start without a jump start. This has been super-frustrating, and googling around, I haven't been impressed by people's reported experiences trying to have the dealer try to resolve such problems. My worry is that a dealer repair person will change the accessory 12V battery without fixing the underlying problem. I would suspect a parasitic draw somewhere, but voltage tests when the car was overnighted without any kind of charging did not suggest a serious voltage draw on the 12V battery.
Other details about the car: our keyless entry hasn't worked for several years (dead batteries in the key fob?) and we open the car manually using the key each time. We stick the fob in the slot each time we want to start it. MPG is comparatively low vs. other Priuses, perhaps 44-45 MPG, and lower when the 12V battery starts to die (37-40). I have had the car serviced (oil, etc.) like clockwork every three months; recently, I've noticed the engine is starting to burn oil a bit (level is reported low on each change).
Most of the driving has been done in the flats and the heat of California's Central Valley, and we've put something like 120,000 miles on it just in the last five years. Besides the fact that the 12V battery keeps dying, the car has been very reliable.
We just inherited a free Prius with just 60,000 miles on it, and I have a 1993 Camry with 150k miles on the chassis and maybe 60k miles on the replacement engine I had dropped into it a few years ago. The Camry just passed California's smog test and seems to be running well. We don't want or need three cars.
Our choice is to try to fix the Prius with 193k miles on it and donate the Camry (which gets about 20 miles to the gallon, the horror...), or keep the Camry and donate the Prius. My instinct is to not drop thousands of dollars into the high-mileage Prius, especially if these issues might be pointing to a dying main battery.
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We just bought a 2011 and are only getting 40 mpg max. I wonder if the 110 Arizona summer heat has something to do with it. Pretty bummed. I have read 50 with careful driving is normal? I let bicycles outrun me? 12 volt battery? New plugs? It has 107,000.
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I'm the loudest Prius in CT right now. My brakes doing that loud scraping sound. Is it normal to need brakes this soon?
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My red airbag light on the instrument cluster is coming on intermittently. Off to the dealer to try to solve the problem. Not how I envisioned my first full day of ownership!!
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I have had my '02 SC since 2007 and frequently when I turn the key to start, I hear an instantaneous "electronic click" sound. I have ignored it and no service person has ever mentioned it, nor have I requested a Lexus diagnosis.
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2008 r32. First time i opened it up on the highway, noticed a weird electronic whine under the back seat as soon as we slowed down that wont go away. It changes pitch when you shift and sounds like a weird electronic sys trying to mimic an exhaust leak. Id think fuel pump, but seems louder on the left side (fuel flap on right). Since i talked her into it and i apparently caused this noise, shes gonna kick my ass if I don't fix it. Its somewhat warrantied, so toss out whatever, I am not scared to go to the dealer with 500 things i want them to look at, but i need to know if their diagnosis is correct or total crap. Ive never dealt w 4motion (its incredible) and my newest dub is also a vr6, but its a 92.
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Took a recently purchased 2004 Civic EX to a mechanic to have it diagnosed. The diagnosis (separate discussion) was such that I decided to get a second opinion. On driving away, I noticed a constant spring-squeaky sound that had not been there before, so I took the car back. The mechanic explained that the front struts were bad (not part of their original diagnosis) and therefore, when they put the car up on the frame lift, air entered the struts hydraulic whatevers and that was causing the squeak. Several weeks ago, I had had the oversize wheels and tires that came with the car replaced - why wouldn't the problem have surfaced then, or in the 1000 miles I'd driven since? Btw, the tire place that had changed the tires and wheels had said nothing about struts needing replacing.
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I drive a used 2012 Nissan Sentra that I purchased six months ago. Today is the first time I've ever had problems with it. I was driving down the road this afternoon and it started making a noise that's very hard to describe. It sounds like it's coming from the dash and is comparable to birds chirping or a computer-like/electronic noise. It kind of sounds like R2D2 hijacked my car! It also started making a scraping like sound from the back wheel. I thought I was dragging something under my car, but there was nothing there when I checked. When I started it again later, there was a squeak when I backed up that was either underneath or the rear right wheel side. The sounds only occur when the car is moving.
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In Jan my radio began to make a static sound when I went over a bump, and then would go off. I discovered I could turn off the engine, and the radio would come back on. Eventually it stopped working altogether. A few weeks later, the turn signals stopped working, then the speedometer/odometer, then the cabin light, then the brake lights. Sometimes the windshield wiper goes on in the 'clean' cycle where water is squirted onto the windshield, and the wiper wipes. This feature has never worked before.
I have owned the vehicle (Mazda pickup 1998 B2300) for 2 years. I found soon after buying the vehicle there is a 'Timer Control Module' circuit board behind the radio in the dash which, when unplugged, will disable the functions mentioned above. Is this board the problem??
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