Prius C :: EV Mode Doesn't Turn On - Car Has Only Gas Engine Running
Jul 21, 2016
It happens yesterday when I passed an accident caused traffic jam. The day is hot, about 100 F and the traffic is very slow. It lasted for about 15 to 20 minutes, of course the battery had only 2 bar left. After the traffic jam, the battery is charge quickly, but I realized that the EV will not turn on, or the car has only gas engine running. I can feel the acceleration is different with only gas engine running, not as smooth as normal. I got home, turned off my car. After two hours, I tried to drive it again, it's still the same. Until this morning, it got back to normal. During the whole time, there's no any sign showing there's any problem.
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I have had my Prius v for almost 2 years and just recently realized that I don't understand why the oil pressure light doesn't come on when the engine isn't running. Is there something electric that provides pressure when the engine isn't running ?
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I've noticed the Prius V engine is running at very low RPM in ECO mode at steady speed of about 65km/h (40mph). Fuel consumption vary between about 4-5L/100km (58 - 47mpg) and RPM is showing about 1100+
I usually see RPM of about 1100 to 1400+ which is very good; so I'm not surprised this engine is very fuel efficient.
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I'm confused about my PIP. Every night, I charge my battery fully and have 11-12 miles of charge to consume during the day. However, I've noticed that at least 10-25% of the time I'm driving in EV mode, the EV indicator goes off and my gas engine just runs. It's not because I'm driving the car hard - it even does it when stopped at a light.
My only guess is that either Toyota wants the gas engine to run once in a while or else it's trying to charge the Hybrid battery (even though I'm not using it at that time). It's a really bummer because even though I'm rarely out of EV mode, I'm burning what seems like a fair bit of gas - after 300 miles of mostly EV, I'm down to half a tank of gas?
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When I'm leaving the house and I pull out onto the street, I have to go close up a very annoying gate which takes a good few minutes to do. The car is still in it's warm up mode so the ICE is running the whole time. I know just turning it off would save gas, but would it be bad for the engine, to turn it off with the key before it shuts itself off?
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I've recently noticed that every time I start up the car and drive, no matter how slow I go the car's engine running... and loudly. It seems to be revving high and low for at least 5-7 minutes into the drive even though it should be in EV mode at the speed I'm going and even when I stop. The battery is always juiced up too btw.
That issue seems to have only been for older cars that have driven quite a few KMs but mine has no more than 2000 KMs and is a brand new Prius C 2012.
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In a cold weather also noticed the EV mode doesn't stay on for a long time even with a 90% full battery and fully warmed up. The engine starts to kick in randomly.
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I have Prius 2007, base model + package 2 & no upgrades. Not sure if it came with HID. It does not have a fog light.
I parked the car in front of a restaurant and waited. Turned off the headlights while waiting with engine running. Fiddled with the interior panel brightness dial a bit. When I turned on the car again the headlights wouldn't turn on - both of them. Drove home with hi-beam.
Checked the fuses H-LP LO for both RH & LH sides. They seem fine.
Asked wife to turn on/off headlights from stick - I could hear the click in the relay - so DIM relay is ok. With stick knob set to headlights and car running asked for the stick to be pushed to turn on/off high-beam- Could hear the relay engage + high beam on/off.
I looked closely to see if the mirror is moving - no movement. Just found it is possible for the same bulb to be High & low beams when there is no mirror movement with dual filament bulbs.
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We've use the Auto position for he headlights most of the time since our 2008 was new. Not every time, but too often, the speedometer cluster lighting doesn't switch to dimmed setting when the headlights come on. It seems to happen most frequently when we are in a parade at night.
The backlight for the radio dims properly with the Rheostat, but not the Speedometer Cluster. To get it to work properly, you simply need to turn he headlights off and back on again. (or today, open the door). Sometimes the dim after a 5 second delay (after covering the sensor), and other times, they don't dim after a 20 minute drive in the pitch black.
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How to fix or solve front turn signals that are not working? I just realized that both the front signals on my Prius doesn't light or flash when making a turn, the rear are working fine. Is this an easy fix or should I bring it to the dealer?
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I drive a 2009 GS350 and I just noticed that when I start the car and decide to get out while it is running my Key FOB doesn't perform any of the functions suck as lock the doors or open the trunk. I wasn't sure if it was supposed to do this as when I leave my car running to warm up for a few minutes I kind of want to lock the doors.
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When turn on the start on my car the engine kicks in, how come the Ev mode doesn't turn on the I select it?
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I've had my nice new red Prius now for 2 1/2 weeks now, and I'm noticing a disturbing trend. Other drivers don't seem to see me! I'm not taking about drivers who don't look while changing lanes. I've now had 4 separate incidents where people have turned left RIGHT IN FRONT OF ME, causing me to slam on my brakes.
Now, prior to my Prius, I had a gray Matrix for 7 years. I would think the gray Matrix would have blended in more than the red Prius would have, but I don't think in the 7 years I had the car, I've had this many of this kind of close calls I've had in the past couple of weeks.
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So, I decided to re-code the car such that the radio does not shut off when I turn off the engine (KESSY) but rather when I open the door to get out. It's accomplished by recording the instrument cluster to think it's a UK cluster. Well, when I did that the area that usually displays the outside temp is displaying my speed in KPH. I changed the coding back to US and it didn't work. The temp is displayed if I choose to have the car stats displayed like miles till empty and such but that's not usually what I have displayed. Funnily enough, I do like knowing what the outside temp is.
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I always have my car in DRL, and just noticed last night to today that it doesn't turn on immediately when I start the car, however it does seem to turn on a few minutes after the car starts rolling. I'm sure before it turned on immediately with the car. Maybe 12v going weak?
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When I put the car in ready, the car will beep 3 times. It's like, foot on brake and press start button, then car shows ready, at the same time it goes chirp-chirp, then beep beep beep. I'm just wondering if the 3 beeps can be turned off? I didn't find any thread regarding this beep. I did find many about turning off the seat belt beep, reverse beep, etc. and I already turned off those beeps.
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I have clearly noticed that in PWR mode, apart from the obvious change in gas pedal response, the ICE tends not to shut down and burn fuel when releasing completely the gas pedal, especially - but no exclusively - at higher speeds (e.g. >90km/h).
In normal or ECO mode the ICE will turn off (though still turning, I know, if at "high speeds") and fuel consumption will show 0L/100km.
With PWR the engine spins and you see a fuel consumption not equal to 0.
My theory is that the engine management will be a bit more aggressive and tend to keep the ICE spinning with gas to make sure that when the gas pedal is pressed the reaction is immediate and there is no lag due to the MG1 spinning it first to turn it on. Moreover, the battery is charged more than just letting the wheels spin, but less than braking, in this way, since the engine can actively drive MG1 to generate energy for the battery (not very efficient, but after all this is PWR mode... ).
This would justify,BTW, in a more scientific way the statement on the User's Manual that says that PWR mode will tend to increase fuel consumption.
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RE: FORD PROBE GL (non-turbo). Last week suddenly car wouldn't start Thurs. night. Cranked but would not turn over. Heard click at ignition switch area when key turned to start position. (Although I could only hear one click from inside the vehicle with windows shut, I was told that clicks audible under the hood from standing outside.) Tried jump starting (from a good battery using proper connections) unsuccessfully, repeated tries several minutes apart, allowing longer and longer time to charge. About every third attempt, instead of cranking sounds, I would get silence, with only the click audible.
Temperatures decreased from approximately 50s to 20s when symptoms began.Battery is old but tests good/replace soon: 330+ CCA at 43 degrees, original rating CCA 530 (silver battery now at 7 years. Will replace, but garage did not have required size 56). At that point, the amps gauge read at the low end of the normal range (and today it read mid-way in the normal range).Had car towed to garage on Friday. Mechanic looked at on Saturday and decided it was the inertia switch, which he said had "tripped".I watched video for technicians on inertia switch but it shows on newer Fords. Mine is not located at the kick panel and does not have a red button on top. I am not certain from my experience whether the reset button would actually be in a different position when tripped or he merely surmised that is what had happened, despite my telling the shop manager that I had not so much as bumped a curb. Also, the trunk was not slammed or even opened prior to the car not starting.
Car presumably started fine at mechanic when they pulled it into the garage to put air in tires and back out to the lot, as well as when I started it to drive home on Sunday. However, on Tuesday it would not start. Just in case, I depressed inertia switch reset and tried cranking again several times, giving it some gas, until I was actually pumping it vigorously in desperation as a last resort (several seconds turning key each time), and on about the 5th try, the engine began to catch just as I was releasing the key. Reset the inertia switch one more time (just in case), and after a couple more attempts, it finally started, but when I was going in reverse to back out and then putting in gear to start out in first gear, for about 15 seconds total, I heard a bizarre loud, fairly high-pitched whistle/whine type of sound that seemed to come from under the hood coming through the central area of the dash where the radio is located.
Drove about 5 miles to my job, and about 2 hours later was able to start the car on the first try. Lately usually driven relatively short distances of 2-4 miles, with a longer drive of 11 miles broken up into 6 miles + 5 miles on the return trip the night before this started happening.
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I just found a nice Prius C for sale with little damage to the front right corner, no frame damage or anything, just some bodywork needed. So, after it was fixed up. I brought the car back and there is weird issue that I have - turn signals and Hazard lights dont work. When I turn it on, i can hear clicks from it, but I dont see lights blinking on the dashboard and my head/tail lights dont blink as well.
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I have an automatic 2006 GLS Accent that is having a few problems. The engine will crank, but doesn't turn over right away. It might take a few tries, but will always start. This happens intermittently. Sometimes it will do it first thing in the morning, or sometimes it will happen later in the day after several start ups.
It has recently starting stalling while coming to a stop or sitting idle at a traffic light. This is also an intermittent problem. Always starts back up after a few tries.
The check engine light is not on. I have not taken it to a mechanic yet since it doesn't always do it, and will most likely be tricky to diagnose. What the problem might be? I was thinking it might be a crankshaft sensor?
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It's a no crank, no start issue. Battery is only a few months old and tests fine (800CCA,) starter is only 2 months old and we've pulled it out a couple times to have it tested and it's fine. Positive and negative battery cables are also fairly new (last spring.) I've tested pretty much every fuse and relay in the truck that had to do with the starter, etc. My brother has tested the resistance on most of the cables and wires (battery cables, alternator, starter, etc.) Anti-Theft has been tested as well.
Now, here's the odd part. When the key is turned, the starter clicks, but it doesn't turn the engine... at all. About the only thing I haven't tested is to see if the engine is locked up (which would really, really suck.) Now, this is an L76, 6.0L engine. It has D.O.D and variable valve timing, so the issues may be different than the 5.3 or 4.8.
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