Prius C :: Check Engine Light Due To Fill-up With Engine On?
Aug 31, 2013
Had my C4 now for 3 weeks. About a week ago filled it up for the first time. Three days later the CEL came on so took it to the dealer (checked gas cap first and it seemed fine). Dealer told me that the code indicated that I gassed up with the engine on. This is my first car with push button start. I pushed it once, car said "see you" and I filled up. Am I not turning it completely off? Is there something more I should be doing?
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I have a 2001 Prius with about 175K miles on it. I was headed to the beach this past Tuesday and had an oil change done right before I left. The trip here from NC to Myrtle Beach was about 200 miles. On the way back today, after I stopped to fill up on gas the 'check engine' light came on for the rest of the trip back home. I went tonight to Autozone and got back all the codes that are P0420, P0300, P0301, P0304, P0440 ....
My question is...Is it possible that all of those codes are somehow the result of my recent oil change? (Oil overflow?, etc.) I've been doing some searching in the archives for those codes and oil/fluid changes appear to be a possibility with all of them.
Just a little background, I've already had the hybrid battery replaced in this car a little more than a year ago. I've had no more warning lights come on since that time until today.
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I have an issue that keeps recurring intermittently that I cannot seem to figure out. The car is a 2006 Sonata with a 4-cylinder and about 130k miles. It started about 6 months ago when the check engine light came on 25 miles or so after a fill up. The code shown was P2097 (Post catalyst system too rich.) I reset the light by disconnecting the battery. I tried adding some gas dryer and premium fuel and that seemed to work, but the light would intermittently come on. I also replaced the spark plugs (put dielectric grease on the boots) and had the exhaust system checked for leaks. I also put in fuel injector cleaner several times and cleaned the MAF sensor. In April, the light was coming on quite often, so I replaced the post catalyst oxygen sensor and reset the light.
The light stayed off for 600 miles or so and then came back on. This time the code is P0420 (catalytic converter efficiency). An exhaust system shop said that there does not appear to be anything wrong with the exhaust system including the catalytic converter itself. The car does have a slight miss at idle, but performs fine other than that. Also, if the car is not driven for a few days, there is some valve train noised when the engine is first started which lasts about 5 seconds.
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I have 2007 explorer 4.6 v8. The check engine light is on, and i can only fill the gas tank about 3/4 full, after moving the gas nozzle all around and taking about 15 minutes. I read a few different things while searching. Like vapor canister need to be replaced. or the vent hose needs to be replaced.
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Recently there has been a series of problems popping up with the Prius. Its a 2003 model year.
- About four nights ago the warning icon and check engine light (picture below) popped up upon engine start-up and i noticed a weird idle. It seemed to idle rough. After about 20 seconds of idling the engine would shut off. After about 10 minutes and 6 or 7 attempts to restart the engine the warning lights disappeared and idle seemed to be restored.
- The afternoon after that the same warning icon and check engine light popped up along with the rough idle. After about 10 minutes and 6 or 7 attempts to restart the engine the warning lights disappeared and idle seemed to be restored.
- After this incident it seems like the vehicle is getting bad gas mileage. The picture below shows me getting an average of 25mpg. I was driving very conservatively. Driving the same way i usually do, i usually get 45-50mpg. The vehicle seems to be charging the battery more than usual.
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2006, 2G, 43000K. This has happened twice now. Both times on an extended trip of 3+ hours in hot weather: Cruising along at about 70 MPH, the engine just quits. RED Triangle; check engine light; and vcs light. Turned everything off. Car would not restart right away, but after waiting 15 minutes or so, the car restarts and runs fine. All warning lights off except check engine light.
Immediately drove to a Toyota dealership where the following codes were found: P0AOF info 204 (Engine failed to start); and P3190 (poor engine power). The Tech checked the EFI relay; checked for oil puddled in intake; and checked for a contaminated MAF sensor. "No problems found"!
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I got my oil changed today and thought everything (10 am) was fine with my car. I drove it straight home after the oil change. About 4pm I drove it to work and no problems still. Finally tonight on my way home right as I turned on to my street the car at first seem to hesitate. Slow a bit and I pushed the accelerator. Then suddenly as I pulled in my drive way the engine began to shake as though I was about to stall and the check Engine light came on as well as the big red triangle.
This has happened before. The display being lit up like a christmas tree so but this time the engine shook. I turned the car off, check the oil, which is full and the coolant which is full. The engine has not shook yet ( but I wont leave the car on for a long time to see if it happens again) the Red Triangle has turned off and now only the check engine light remains.
I am going to call Firestone, that is where I got the oil change all I know is that they did a routine check up (unauthorized by me) and told me I needed a new water pump drive belt and tires and a air filter..... So I am hoping they didn't touch something by mistake. I told the man that I would much rather have that done by the dealership.
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Started my 2010 gen 3 Prius 3 the other day and got a bunch of what I thought was engine clatter and the check engine light came on.
The next time I started it, no noise. Anyways brought it to dealer and they diagnosed it and ordered a new manifold.
The next day when the part arrived, I brought in the car. Talked to the mechanic, a great guy, and he explained what happened. Apparently, the clatter is actually the springs rattling in the clutch mechanism of the starter motor/electric motor and not the valves like I thought.
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I put 4 qts Mobil 1 motor oil in, with a new Mobil filter. Drove 400 miles no problem. Parked car a week. Drove car to find CEL on. Can overfull oil cause this? (I heard it can cause lower gas mileage.)
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My car has 120.000 miles and regular maintenence done on schedule. Yesterday, after a 1000 mile / 4 day trip, after a break at a service station, the engine srudded violently (for being a prius, it felt like a diesel) while cranking up durin acceleration.
The check Engine light came on.
Using Can-view, I noted these DTC codes: P0101 C3100 P0000
And cleared the memory.
The check Engine switched off.
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata with a 2.4 liter 4-cylinder engine. After filling the gas tank, the car idles roughly, but accelerates and performs fine at higher speeds. The rough idle lasts about 5-10 miles and then goes away.
Six days ago, I changed the spark plugs and air filter. Four days ago, I filled up with gas (and had the same issue with the rough idle). This morning, I started the car and idled it for 2 minutes while I scraped ice off the windows. I drove the car about 5 minutes and the check engine light came on. I took it to Autozone and the code given was P2187, System too lean at idle bank #1. "
Autozone suggested that it could be an air intake fault (MAF sensor), fuel pressure, or vacuum leak. They also said they have a MAF sensor cleaner to try. I am not sure if the rough idle after fill-up and check engine are related. Also, I don't know if the spark plugs or air filter could be related to the check engine. I was planning on making some easier checks first such as hoses near where I worked last weekend, especially near the air filter. Cleaning the MAF sensor is easy too. I was also going to check for vacuum leaks (incl. intake manifold) and recheck the spark plugs.
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my friend has a 2005 Toyota Prius w/ 22,000 miles the check engine light came on and has not gone away.. What I wanted to know is how can I reset the Check Engine Light with out the scanner. I know some cars you can just disconnect the battery others you disconnect and tuch the terminals..
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A demonstration of how the Airlift tool spares you from the hassle of burping the system and attaching a hose to the top air vent on the engine. Done on a 2010 Prius but it applies across the board.
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This morning I tried to drive my 2008 Prius and the "check engine" light quickly blinked and the dashboard didn't light up. The monitor did turn on and I could hear the engine running. The monitor showed that the hybrid battery was almost full. While trying to go in reverse, the camera did not work. We just had an oil change done. The 12V battery was replaced almost 2 years ago. The car has almost 150K on it. I also tried tightening the gas cap. It's obviously winter and it snowed last night (in case that might be a factor).
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I have a 2007 Prius which today, for the first time ever, refused to start. I pressed the Start button and all that happened is the "check engine" and "airbag" lights came on (dimly), and the green LED on the "P" (park) button began blinking. I pressed the "Start" button again but nothing I can do will change this. The car is sitting in my garage now, in this condition. I turned the dome light on briefly and it was very dim, so I suspect the 12v battery is dead. Only problem is, to access it requires opening the back hatchback door, which won't open without 12v power. Meanwhile the tiny bit of power that's left is being drained by the system in it's half-on condition (above). If I could get to the battery I could connect an external charger to charge it up enough to start it but I can't. What should do?
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I was wondering if this seems reasonable. I just bought a used 2008 Prius top trim package with 107,00 miles on it this last month. The first day I owned it a check engine light was triggered. The guy I bought it from hooked it up to his computer and cleared it to then try to trigger it again. This happened when I first turned on the car. I started backing and then it turned on. I didn't know what caused it as we couldn't trigger the response again. It's been a few weeks now and 1 trip to the shop for some repairs. There have been no problems what-so-ever since then and my Prius just started getting close to the 50 MPH as advertised after a tune up.
Today when I'm driving, as the seller did mention before could happen, the right headlight turned off. As he had told me before, just turning the lights off and turning them back on will get it working again. I did this and as soon as I did the check engine light came on. I go back to the night I originally had it happen and I was probably in the process of turning on my lights.
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My wife and I own a 2006 Toyota Prius that we bought used 2 years ago. a couple of days ago, the master warning light (red triangle exclamation point) and check engine light came on. I took it into the dealer and of course, our hybrid battery was dead - battery and a new ECU required.
Our car is at 99,000 and 32 days out of warranty. Went down the road to atlanta hybrid repair. they were incredibly nice, and said that my computer was fine, but the battery would need to be replaced.
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I have had two CEL issues, both involving my gas cap. First time, I didn't have the cap on tight enough. Second time, the cap was bad and needed to be replaced. Today, I ended up getting lost in the country, couldn't find a gas station and was dangerously low on gas. I was on the low bar for about ten minutes and then the check engine light went on.
Given my history with the CEL light and gas, I'm wondering if this could be related? I filled up the tank and the Check Engine Light is still on.
I have a 2001 Prius (1st gen).
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A little less than a month ago the "check engine light" came on and I panicked. Lit up orange, not red and it was flashing, just a stagnant orange check engine light. I tried do some research and found that the gas cap was the majority reason why it tends to go on.
I checked my gas cap, and I thought it seemed lose by what it seemed like a simple screw off. So I screwed it back on and made sure I heard the couple clicks. After about 2-3 runs and turning the car on and off the light disappeared.
The next day, was driving and it came back on. I didn't even mess with the gas cap. Over the next period of days, it turned off, then turned on again.
I have a check engine light that doesn't know what it wants to do.
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My '05 Prius check engine light has been on for a while now, at first it would turn on for a while then turn off but now it is staying on. I took it to AutoZone and they ran a diagnostic and it returned the codes P1121, P1123, P1150, P1116.
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Our 2005 prius has logged 170,000 miles (we purchased it used with 90,000) and this is the first time we've ever ran into any issues with it, love the car. Well, a few weeks ago the check engine light came on and we just happened to have an emissions inspection that week, which was failed because the check engine light was on (they didn't even test the exhaust).
After taking it to a local dealer to see what the check engine light was all about, they came back and told us it was related to the Coolant Heat Storage system and that the CHS temperature sensor would need to be replaced. They also told us that the water pump had a minor leak and would need to be replaced. Another non-related but related issue is that the driver side wheel liner was ripped out when my wife decided some off-roading... and after seeing where the CHS is located this might be a factor.
Could low coolant levels (related to the water pump leak) be causing the CHS temp sensor alarm? I'm making an appointment with the dealer to have water pump replaced (or may DIY if the job isn't too bad), I'm just wondering if I should hold off on the CHS related parts until that has been fixed. I checked all the connections and everything seems good, no corrosion yet. The temp sensor is on the front side of the tank so it wouldnt be getting splashed too much by the wheel even without the liner.
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