Prius C :: Audible Ongoing Clicking Sound Whenever Radiator Fan Turns On
Mar 25, 2015
I recently got rid of my 13' Si and joined the Prius C family a few days ago. It was a big change change going from a high revving engine to a hybrid.
Over the last few days I've been figuring out all the different noises the engine makes. At this point I've figured out what all them are and that they're pretty much all normal sounds from a hybrid. There is one noise in particular that I have not been able to figure out if its normal or not.
Whenever the radiator fan turns on there is an audible ongoing clicking sound. It almost sounds like the fan is hitting something yet when the motor stops running and the fan is winding down the noise isn't present. You can't hear the clicking from the inside the cabin or even outside the car, the noise is only audible when to hood is popped.
I'm aware that I can drive to dealer and test one of their Cs but the drive is quite far. 2014 Prius C...
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I have a clicking sound that seems to be coming from under the middle to rear of the car. Its audible with the windows down at anything over 15 mph. It sounds like some ball bearings are clicking around randomly and it's driving me crazy. I have continued to drive and nothing has hard failed yet after 2000 miles. My thought it was a front inner cv that went (grease all over) so I replaced that today, but no affect on the noise.
Other than wheel bearings, the only stuff back there is the haldex and shaft which could be big money. I know the shop I used had to remove the drive shaft to put in the exhaust- anything I can/should check on that?
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I recently bought a 2012 Golf 2.5L, and I absolutely love it. There is, however, a very annoying clicking sound that's audible in the cabin. I think it's coming from the overhead console area, where the lights, bluetooth, voice command, etc. are located.
Basically, it sounds like two plastic parts rubbing against each other. At first, I thought it might have been the latch on the sunglasses compartment. Then, I thought it might have something to do with the plastic reacting to changes in temperature. Ultimately, though, I can't figure it out. I've heard this sound when the cabin is both cold and warm, on bumpy roads and smooth roads, etc.
I don't know if I'm being excessively anal, but I find it really distracting. Is this something I should bring up with the dealer, or is there a quick fix/common sense solution? I feel a bit silly complaining over something like this, but it's beginning to drive me bonkers. Other than that, the car drives great.
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I have a 2000 Suburban with about 170,000 miles on it. I'm getting an audible clicking sound at slow speeds which increases as the vehicle speeds up and also a fairly severe vibration which becomes noticeable at about 20 mph and becomes worse as the speed increases. I thought maybe driveshaft but things seem fairly tight. Also, this has gotten gradually worse over time.
Ok I figured out where the vibration was coming from...U joints in the front driveshaft are shot. Now I have another problem...I've removed the fwd u joint straps and according to the book, the driveshaft should simply slide to the rear into the transfer case so I can lower the fwd u joint but the problem is that the part of the shaft (which slides into and out of the transfer case) seems to be frozen/stuck. Do I simply beat on it with a hammer to break it loose or am I doing something wrong?
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My 2006 package 6 just developed a ticking sound. Audible at stop without the gas engine operating. All gear positions the same. Sounds almost like a slow, little plastic fan that one blade is hitting something. Sound system off, climate system off.
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I have 70,000 miles and this weird rattling somewhere in front, probably drivetrain, only audible at 60-70 mph, medium load, so no pinging. worse on high speed right turns, like highway entrance, and in this circumstance audible at about 50mph.
I recently did cleaning of intake manifold, EGR pipe, and TB and an oil change and no change. The noise is totally absent in city/suburb style of driving with speeds up to 50mph. what could that be? It's clearly getting worse. could it be connected to the CV clicking noise i have at slow speeds?
I searched some more and there are few threads about noise that sounds like pinging, but doesn't behave like pinging. no resolution except for the standard advice about higher octanes and gas additives:
-Engine ping under load
-Higher octane gas for fuel pinging
-Engine pinging
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I have a 2009 Ford Escape XLT, 4 cyl. and in the summer I had the vehicle in as the speed sensor failed. Since that time I have an ongoing ticking sound (sounds like a diesel vehicle). I had the vehicle into my local dealer and after looking over the vehicle they stated that it was "normal". However, my warranty is up in January 2014 and this sound is horrible. Below is a video of the sound.
[URL] .....
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I have got a plug in supply phev kit, and I live in the uk. As the software on the kit is written for the American market, I'm assuming our speeds are a little different, ie, the phev kit always wants to enter ev mode automatically below or at 30mph, and the kit does do this, but our 30 mph speed must be different to the usa, as the kit tries to enter ev mode when I'm doing speeds of over 30mph even up to 35 mph, the the cars software stops this from happening and the audible alarm sounds, 4 beeps, and words on the led state ev mode not allowed because we are of course going too fast.
This is of course quite annoying sometimes when the kit is constantly trying to get into ev mode and alarms are frequent at speeds between 30 and 35 mph, over this speed the kit stops trying to go into ev mode.
The kit is working really well to be honest, and I am very pleased with the way it works. One thing I would like to do is to try to stop the audible alarm when the ev mode is not allowed, is there a way of disabling the cannot enter ev mode chime / beep alarm with software, I do own a techstream light.
I wish the PIS program and software was open source, I could alter the parameter myself then.
One more slight thing that could be addressed is sometimes, but not very often, when I am driving in mixed or blended mode, the oem hybrid battery gets too full of charge and the engine starts to burn off the Excess charge in the battery, again if the PIS program was open source, I could adjust the point at which the kit battery adds into the oem battery, I would drop that parameter a volt or 2 to stop the oem battery going into excess and burn off process.
I must say though, apart from these 2 slight annoyances, the kit is awesome.
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Due to the clicking-ratcheting sound my 1997 Civic makes when I make hard turns or U turns, two mechanics (one drove the car) say that I need two new front axles at a cost of $400 ($200 each). I have driven the car like this for maybe a couple thousand miles before I looking into it. How much longer can I drive it like this before it gets dangerous or fails? I now only make gentle turns and so minimize the clicking-ratcheting sounds that happen only on hard or aggressive turns. The car only has 76,000 miles on it. Is it dangerous to keep driving it?
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Last year, when the passenger's side CV boot ripped and all that grease few around, it started to make that familiar clicking sound when making turns. I had a heck of a time replacing it. Did not like to doing the work.
Now, the driver's side boot is ripped. Grease everywhere. The clicking sound is just starting to be noticeable. Can I just wash out the CV joint and repack it with grease and a new boot? Or, should I just replace the CV joint?
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My wife's 2007 Mazda3 is making a very slight clicking sound every while coming out of left turns. It's somewhat intermittent, only happening every few turns. I did a quick visual inspection and noticed that there was grease around the CV boot. The problem started about five days ago (or at least the noise started appearing five days ago). Three weeks ago I had the struts replaced, so I'm wondering if they could have torn the boot while replacing the struts, or if they didn't notice the issue.
Is the CV joint shot, considering this is only an intermittent sound, or is there something else that could be happening? Also, what is a typical repair cost for a CV joint (or half axle replacement) on a 2007 Mazda3?
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Have a 2007 Avalon, original owner. For past 3 winters, when temp is 10F or less, there is a loud clicking sound when the car turns left from a stop. The frequency of the clicking sound increases as the car accelerates. Once the car makes the turn, the sound stops. In extremely cold weather (0F or less) the noise happens when turning right, but less intense. The clicking usually goes away after driving several miles and will return after sitting outside overnight or for 4 or 5 hours if the temp is below 10F. Dealer claims all of the CV joints are good. I drove it with a tech this morning and it was clearly present.
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My 3003 Santa Fe AWD has an issue with the blower fan. It stops, then starts working and clicking can be heard behind the dash when this happens. The clicking seems to increase when the climatization switch (the one that switches the air to the front vents, foot wells, windshield, etc) is turned off. When it clicks while the switch is on the off position, the blower blows for a split second every time the click is audible. It kind of turns itself on/off. Before I start replacing parts, I suspect the fan relay to be the culprit, but I'm not sure.
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Its a fairly quiet clicking noise. Not constant and starts randomly. I can really hear it when i am in the fast lane next to a barrier or crub? I recently started autoxing. So maybe i beat up something - what it would be though. I checked all my fender liners and splash guard. Everything looks good, but this noise is driving me nuts.
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2004 PSD 4x4 72k. I thought I would be proactive so I bought the front ball joints and have plans to install them but recently I starting hearing (and feeling) a clicking sound in the front LEFT when I make sharp turns to the left and hit small bumps now and again. I jacked up the front end and am able to get 1/4" of movement front to back (top to bottom so not steering) in the wheel.
I narrowed it down to the hub. I took it apart and it is most likely a sealed unit so no adjustment is possible....that I can see.I pulled out the locking hub and got as far as I can to know there is not an adjustment. Need to confirm that it indeed is a sealed bearing and if so what are the part number(s) I may need to repair it.
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New GTI with PP. Less than 400 miles. When I brake at low speeds, I can hear the sound of the pads and rotors rubbing, bringing the car to a stop. It's a light grind/rub sound. Nothing disturbing - just not silent. Is this normal? Perhaps just the brakes and rotors breaking in?
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So, last night I was driving with radio off and a "whirring/fan" sound was audible in the rear of my 2002 SC430 - a sound that I have never heard. The sound seemed to resonate from the driver side, access panel (which I believe holds fuses and other systems for roof). After the vehicle was stopped and restarted the sound continued. Now today, I insert the key into the ignition - no sound; turn to accessory - sound is audible; started vehicle and did not hear sound. Second time I repeated and sound was heard; started and did not hear sound, Third time I repeated and no sound heard in accessory start position. What the heck is this? Any diagram of the trunk and what components are housed in the center bay? Does this vehicle have any auto-leveling function that activates?
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During the recent cold snap I have noticed that one of my HVAC fans has become audible and makes a squealing sound as it spins. If the radio is on loud enough you cannot hear it, but without if is ANNOYING to say the least. I know it is the HVAC fan for sure cause when it is switched off, it slows and stops with the fan. Should I wait it out and see if it disappears during the eventual return to warmer weather or have it replaced? If so, what is involved? Is it an easy fix or does the dash have to be removed to get at it? If it is the latter, I am inclined to wait and see if it goes away on its own..
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Do the parking brake make an audible sound when engaged disengaged. I noticed this for the first time but only while the drivers door was open. Sound like a motor running for about 3 seconds when you turn the break on and off. Is this normal?
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The problem is an audible surging sound coming from the engine. It's only after driving for a while.
My girl friend told me she heard a revving or surging and I thought it might be an idle surge, IACV or FITV but the RPMs aren't moving or bouncing at all. It has no effect on drive ability or anything else, that we know of. It's just an odd sound. Thought it might be an alternator or belt but I'm no professional..
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I have a 2001 f150 4x4 5.4 Liter 72000 miles. There is a rubbing sound that is only audible when the brakes are applied. And only when applied with light pressure. The noise will continue intermittently until you come to a complete stop. If the brake is applied aggressively there is no sound at all. I am not sure if it is a brake issue or some thing in the front end that is flexing when slowing down.
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