I know with the regular Prius it was accelerate briskly to speed. but just what is "briskly" ? for some it could be at the rate of zero to 60 in 3 seconds, other it would be 20 seconds. So what would be the best rate of acceleration for the C to get best mileage? how about best acceleration to speed, say 50 mph, and still get good mpg without pissing off the rest of the road?
View 19 RepliesI have read that when accelerating from a full stop, it is better to accelerate briskly, but keeping the bar graph in the ECO zone, to cruising speed is better overall for gas mileage compared to accelerating slower and taking more time to reach cruising speed....
I have also heard that it is better to accelerate using the bar graph and making sure it only goes half an inch past the ECO display above it. This way uses less RPM.
Driving home last night I noticed this strange noise coming from the back seat area. not very loud, just a faint electrical motor sound emitting from the passenger rear side of the vehicle. It was strange as in i've never heard it before, I eventually narrowed it down to what I think is the battery fan. When i stopped and got out with the car still running i went to the back seat and listened under the seat and could hear the fan running.
What I thought was strange though was the noise when driving. I would only hear it at speeds above 20 km/h. When I would pull up to a stop and slowed below 20 the noise would switch off, no change in pitch, it would just stop. Then when I would accelerate above 20 the noise would "switch on again". I was only driving through an urban area at the time so never got speed up to anything faster than 50kmh. I'm used to the typical regen braking noise, inverter whine, brake popping noises, etc but this one has me a little worried as it was a new sound and it was coming from the battery area.
I do live in a very hilly area with lots of short steep hills that usually gives me full bars on the battery at least once a day. Also rush hour traffic can be horrendous around here which can bring the battery down to 2 or 3 bars sometimes.
After one hour of freeway speed (60-80) the car slows down to a stop and red !triangle! light comes on. After coasting to the shoulder and waiting 10 minutes, car restarts. This has happened 3 times in the last two months (very frightening, but luckily it was light traffic). Dealer says 'no codes' and that there is nothing to fix!!!! What now? I can't drive a car that could lose power at any moment. Big safety issue....
View 6 RepliesI have a 2010 Prius and have been driving several for the past 7 years.Yesterday, I was driving on the Expressway at 60 mph and all of a sudden I was momentarily stuck at 60 as if I was in Cruise control which I wasn't. Gradually, I was unable to accelerate when I pressed down on the pedal, lost speed and cruised over to the side of the road as if I was out of gas which I wasn't. I shut the engine off, waited a minute and started up again. I continued on my journey without a problem. When I reached my destination I shut down the engine and re started 4 hrs later and drove home 120 miles without a problem. What is the cause of this and is it still under warranty. I have 50,000 miles on the vehicle. May I add, this is the first problem ever encountered.
View 13 Replies02 camry 2.4 I4 LE ... before, around 100K miles ... engine light on cause by Catalytic Converter issue, used magic way in this forum,the engine light has been solved successfully.
right now, 175k miles
problem:
1. engine light always keep flashing when driving.
2. low idle speed <500 at any gear except "Parking".
3. gear "D" at stop, start, reverse, accelerate around 50 mph, whole dashboard was vibrated
action made:
1. "dogbone" motor mount was broken and has replace brand new.
2. throttle body cleaning has done.
Lexus LS460 2008. My AC compressor cuts off at low speed if i accelerate or turn it off and then on it comes back. It never happens at highway speed only in town could it be relay problem? where is the AC compressor relay located?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1990 celica hatch automatic with 33x,xxx miles on it. the cars always had problems like it would suddenly turn off or the rev would go high but all of thats been fixed
recently the car started losing power and it cant really accelerate to a high speed and speed past 30 and the car will start to shake a lil as if it was gonna turn off and even if i floor it at high speed it doesn't really go anywhere and if i use overdrive the rpm shoots way higher then usual.
Do i need new engine or is it other problem? my friend said it could be distributor?
I have '98 Transport Montana and I took it on a trip last weekend on the expressway. I would be doing 70 MPH and approach a hill and start depressing the accelerator to maintain my speed and I could feel a chugging. Also, I could hear the engine seem to make a change in its sound coincident with the chugging. The RPMs at this point were around 2K. It's a 3.4 and all of the normal stuff has been maintained properly (spark plugs, filters, etc.).
View 2 RepliesWell my 05 Touareg V6 is at VW waiting for a new tranny. It has approx 55,000 miles. The problem is, when i'm decreasing my speed say at 55 mph due to traffic or whatever, then begin to accelerate at approx 30mph, the engine revs slightly and the transmission kicks into gear very hard. VW test drove my VW and acknowledge that there is a serious problem with my tranny, but after 4 days, could not figure out why my tranny was doing this. So they are going to install a new tranny this week. I've already experience the hesitation problems and VW has attempted on fixing that too, but it still does it but i/wife have both have learned to live with it.
View 12 Replies2004 Mazda M3 . My auto is making grinding sounds at first-slow speed until it accelerates. It has 70,000+ miles.What could this be? What should-could be done for this concern.
View 3 RepliesI got an automatic VW Golf 3 1995 75ps for my wife, Basically it was a gift, the car is in OK conditions, motor works very decent and for my own amusement the thing actually drives great! The only problem is in 3rd gear, the car change between gears clean and very tight, the problem is when the car accelerates the revolutions goes up buuuut the speed stays basically the same, until I put my foot out of the pedal and reaccelerate, then slowly it works fine but as soon as I put some power on it, it slip, very frustratingly BTW! There is no worrying noise, no smoke, no leak, I haven´t measure the ATF mainly because it is impossible in this car! It is supposed to stay closed forever! (?). My main question is if the ATF can be related with this issue or is it other component of the Transmission? Second question is if the ATF is not related then what can it be?
View 13 RepliesI have a 98 Silverado, 2wd, 5 liter V-8, 180,000 miles. Occasionally, my truck will lose power. Driving down the road I lose speed and cannot accelerate. When I depress the accelerator the motor does nothing. This happens at any speed from take off to highway speeds. When it begins to happen I lose speed slowly for maybe 30 seconds then the service engine light comes on and the problem gets much worse. Sometimes it will sound like it's back firing but the sound is muffled. This seems to happen more often in damp weather but it can happen in dry weather too. And it doesn't always happen in damp weather. It happens in the morning or afternoon. Auto Zone put their tester on it and a code comes back for O2 sensor but the guy didn't think that would cause the trouble I'm having.
View 4 RepliesMy 2000 Chevy Astro van started having problems whenever I accelerate, hesitating losing speed, and all I can possible tie it to is a new gas station where I filled up which said "May contain ethanol". I think the "service engine light" flashed on for a second but does not stay on.
Could bad gas or the ethanol be the problem? Would getting the problem codes read at a parts place work?
I have a 2001, 2wd, XLT, Super Crew with 4.6L and 180000Kms. I am the 2nd owner and have owned it for roughly 6 years. Since owning it I have towed the following: a 1500 Boat, 1000lb full utility trailer, a 2700lb boat, and most recently (Last summer) a 3500lb dry weight/4000lb full 22 foot camper trailer. None of these items ever caused me any problems til mis summer with the camper.
I have always got check engine lights for the stupid coil packs. It seems like I would replace one and a different one would go. I was camping one weekend a short hour distance from my home when I pulled onto the main highway and began to accelerate up to highway speed but it was feeling sluggish picking up to 100kph. When I merged onto the highway it was not a flat piece of ground and was a small grade of a hill, but nothing big. Before getting to the top I started to hear a strange noise, almost like a rattling, and the check engine light started to flash. After breaching the hill, it picked up speed, the light went out, and everything seemed fine.
This happened twice last summer with no other problems. At the end of the summer I once again had a check engine come on...I had blown out a plug, had it fixed and replaced 2 more COPs but still had codes showing for CC, M, F, O, OH, C, E and EV. My reader also said Freeze Frame, and MIL on. I had the truck in in Nov/Dec for an emissions test and it was given a conditional pass due to codes reading but no Check Engine light at this time.
I want to keep this truck...I will be towing the camper again, buit I'm considering getting a different truck. As it is I know I already have to have air bags installed in the rear to level out the load when towing. Hopefully that will cut back on some of the acceleration drag. At present time I have a check engine on...I'll check it again and post what its reading but most likely the same stuff.
This happens to me again on a very hot day. The symptom is: all of sudden, the brake pedal becomes stiff. I mean I can only depress down the pedal just a little bit. Then when I want to accelerate, the engine works very hard and speed picks up very slowly. RPM will shoot to 3000. When I remove my foot from the gas pedal, the speed drops very fast. The car slows down much sooner than usual. So my feeling is the brake is dragging the car. The dealer cannot duplicate the problem during short test drive. So what can be wrong? The brake booster was replaced a few months ago. Is it possible it provides too much boost?
View 17 RepliesOur 1999 automatic Rav 4 (157,000 mi) occasionally won't accelerate from a full stop or from a low, in-town speed. You step on the accelerator and the engine just flutters at low rpm, stuttering. If you drop it into neutral and start revving it will eventually "catch" and be fine. Very dangerous when entering roadways. We have a new timing belt, cleaned up throttle plate, new sparks, water pump, oxygen sensor.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2010 Prius. In the last few months, the radio has started acting strangely.
Sometimes it will increase I speed when you speed up and slow down when you slow down. And play normally when at a stand still. Sometimes it locks up, you can not change the volume or station. Sometimes it does not work at all. Other times it works just fine.
When I called the dealership, they will only replace the radio and not investigate the issue. Replacement could cost 300-400.
My f350 6.0 has seem to have lost its power, while I was driving home it would only accelerate at one constant speed, and driving up hill it would not accelerate at all, I also noticed an elevated exhaust temperature.. There are no warning lights or dash lights indicating any problem.....
View 8 RepliesNot very car service oriented.....but changed my own spark plugs tonight. Now, check engine light is on and engine will not accelerate. My wife leaves for work in 7 hour and I gotta get this car back running if at all possible!
View 11 RepliesCar will be running fine, then intermediately when trying to accelerate car will stall out. When this happens on my screen I get a warning PS+battery that says main+the red ! with the car. I also get a red triangle with ! on the dash display along with check engine and brake light comes on. When the car is restarted, sometimes it won't have any power when trying to accelerate then after a few times of restarting car will run fine.
I have done the maintenance to the throttle body and cleaned the MAF sensor. Since I have done this, it has happened less frequently. And now it hasn't been stalling out, but when the errors flash on dash screen the accelerator has no power.