It was the first really cold day since I got my car--40 degrees F. outside. I hit the Auto button and bumped the temperature up to 78 degrees. The A/C light came on. I tried turning the system off and then on (now that the temperature is set higher), and I got the same thing: the A/C light came on.
Is this normal or should I have this looked at next time I take my car in for service?
I would like to be able to use the fan to bring in outside air with no heating or cooling. What I have been doing is turning the temp setting to Low and controlling the Fan Speed manually.
This seems to work unless the outside temp is too low, then it seems to be heating the air a bit, which I don't work. Is there a different way of doing this? I feel like I am missing something.
I cannot figure out what to do when cold weather comes and I want heat in the car. I've never owned or driven a hybrid. Looks like there are two alternatives:
Set the internal temperature setting to whatever warmth I want, disable the "Automatic" setting, and assume that outside air will be drawn in and warmed by the engine and circulated inside.
Use "Automatic" and let the A/C setting automatically run to warm the air to the temperature I set.
My 2007 has 160k miles and at just over 100k I had toyota change all the fluids. That was about 3 or 4 months ago, it's a taxi. I started noticing the heat was only hot above 83, and sometimes not even hot at high. I thought I was out of fluid so I added to the overflow not wanting to open the cap on a hot motor. It didnt take much, but made the heat come back on above 80 degrees so I did nothing else.
Last night I had no heat again after driving about 200 miles. The heat came back after turning it off for a few minutes, but I stopped at a gas station anyway when I got off the freeway.
The overflow was full. It was also cold. So were the radiator hoses, but not what looked like power steering hoses next to it.
I check that belt pulley was spinning when the engine was running, it was. It a new belt put on by dealer.
The car doesn't show any signs of overheating, and is driven 300 or more miles a day in town and freeway. The motor was of course hot, but not overly so. None of the connected components were hot like I would expect if was overheating.
after owning my car for a week now I've noticed a few issues.
1) Passenger seat-heating doesn't work. Is this a common issue? is there an easy fix for it? I searched but didn't come up with anything. Is there a place I can check the voltage output at?
2) The bumper alignment is off, way off. I think the previous owner hit something :/ my rear bumper is totally mis aligned. Is this an easy fix? can I just take it off and re-align it myself? Or am I going to have to buy new front and rear bumpers?
3) When I drive I have a wur wur wur like described in the other recent post. I'm not sure whether the wheels are off-balance or off-round; however I'm taking the car to belle tire soon to find out.
Just want to get the car back to 100% the previous owner didn't treat her well at all. When I got the car there was so little power-steering fluid it wasn't even reaching the dip-stick and the coolant anti-freeze level was below minimum.
I wonder why the AC takes time to start heating on cold mornings. Actually. It gives warm air after about 5_10 minutes of driving. Is that OK?
View 9 RepliesMy girlfriend's sonata was heating up. I stopped to check the coolant and saw it was all gone. I refilled it just 3-4 weeks ago.
I've checked the most probable stuff;
-There is no white smoke coming from the exhaust
-The oil looks and smells fine
-The colour of the coolant hasn't changed
-I couldn't find any leaks (looked with a flashlight for a few minutes with the engine running, there were no obvious leaks)
I really can't find what's wrong with it.
Today we have 25F in MN and after turning on the car I noticed some weird sounds from the AC/Heating fan inside the car, like turning on and off, then I looked at the temperature in the dashboard (small display behind the steering wheel) and it was 136F. Tried to manually force the heating system, no way, 100% dead, no warm air. As a last resort I connected the VAD tool and got the following errors:
08 AC/Heating Electronics
Climatronic D1 1132
DTCs: 18
P/N: 3D0 907 040 G
Coding: 0000002. WSC: 0000
01273 110
Fresh Air Blower - V2: faulty [static]
[Code].......
Clearly seems to be something big related to the heating system, maybe the controller died ?
My car has been having issues lately, I'll have the heat or air on (doesn't matter which), and I'll hear a click (like a pen click) and it will go off, then it will click again and go back on. Last year it only did this a couple of times and I solved the problem by hitting the dashboard, obviously. But now it's doing it every time I drive, and since it's winter I kind of need the heat to stay on. What is the problem?
View 3 RepliesSo my radiator fan isn't working my ac fan is but not the other one. I knocked on it a few times and got it to spin? Also I was wondering where I could buy silicone hoses for the cooling and for my turbo the hoses i think have holes that's why the check engine light is on something to do with vacuum leak/high idle.
View 1 RepliesMy BMW is heating up very quickly within Min's it goes right to the middle but never overheats. I just noticed I have a bulge in my upper rad. hose. Yes I know replace asap. My question is it common for these BMW's to heat up so quickly? I was thinking about changing the therom.
View 2 RepliesSo this morning I replaced my puddle lights with some leds. After a pretty simple install I was driving around and notice one of my mirrors vibrating so I reached out to pop it into place and noticed that my mirrors are hot (not from the sun but def the heating element).. Could have done anything diluting the process of changing the puddle lamps to make it where these heaters stay on all the time. For all that I know they could have been on all the time even prior to the install as I don't touch the mirror very often.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2007 Saturn Relay with what seems like a bad seat heating element in the lower part of the seat. Is this something that an average mechanic can change out or is it something that must be changed out by an upholstery shop?
View 2 RepliesI've been enjoying my new 2013 ES300h for the last 3 months and recently noticed that the auto temp settings go from 18 C to 32 C. I find this very odd as in the summer I would very much like it to be cooler than 18C and in the winter it would be extremely uncomfortable to keep the thermostat past 28C (once the car has warmed up).
View 3 RepliesThis morning I turned on the heat in my 2014 Sonata 2.0T and there was a clicking sound coming from behind the dash. Heat is now only blowing out for the window defrost mode and when I will not blow out of the other vents.
View 3 Replies2002 Nissan Maxima with 118K miles. Heating and A/C buttons that turn the fan on different levels doesn't work. It will cut on/off but the setting can be on low and it always blows on high. The temp. is correct(heat or cold) on what we set...it just always blows on high no matter what we set. It is a bush button kind of setting not a dial that you turn.
View 1 RepliesCar: 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe
Problem: We have a sweet burning smell like antifreeze or oil coming from the vents when the heat is on.
We have taken it to 3 mechanics and they can't figure out what it is. We expect the heater core is going bad, but the symptoms do not fully match what we are experiencing. We do not have any leaking antifreeze, nor do we have any windows fogging. They also ran a pressure test which came back normal.
My rear passenger hub and wheel have been heating up much more than the others. Sometimes too hot to touch more than a second when you can basically grab on the others. I have taken the tire off, rebalanced it, made sure it and the wheel were normal, taken out the axle shaft, checked inside, regreased the bearings and replaced the inner seal. Everything looked good.
Plenty of fluid in there and the bearings looked perfect. Before I did that I checked the e brake boots to make sure they weren't eating into the rotor. They looked normal, no abnormal wear and the inside of the rotor doesn't look scored or anything. Yet after all of that, even with the mechanic from the auto skills center there with me looking at all of it, we cannot figure out why its still heating up.
1997 AWD 4.0L with 112k
Background : Last year van suddenly overheated (almost to red). Turned on front and rear heat full blast and drove home - about 5 miles. Tested thermostat in boiling water and found that it would not open.
Fix : Pressure-washed radiator fins. Flushed system with Prestone kit and cleaner. Replaced thermostat and temp sending sensors (gauge and ECU) with Autozone parts. Added 50/50 coolant and correct amount of Bar's leak. Temps returned to normal.
Problem : As outside temps warm, the van now consistently runs between "A" and "L" in "NORMAL" on the gauge. AC on/off makes no difference nor does sitting or highway speeds.
Initial Fix : Suspecting the non-OEM Autozone thermostat to be the cause, I replaced the thermostat with a 197 degree Motorcraft unit from the dealer. The van still runs at the same temp.
My Thoughts :
Fan Clutch - Unlikely. Resistance when turning by hand. No fluctuation between sitting and highway speeds implies airflow is adequate
Thermostat - Unlikely. New OEM unit.
Temp sending sensor for gauge - False high reading a possibility. May try to measure temp of radiator supply hose directly to see if it's accurate. May also try to measure sensor resistance to see if it's within specs.
Radiator - Likely? Older van, so scale may be causing blockage. Temps have increased with time. No fluctuation between sitting and highway speeds supports blockage. No issue when outside temps are colder also seem to support blockage theory.
Conclusion : Radiator is okay with winter temps, but reaches it's cooling capacity with summer temps.
Recently i changed my alternator, then all of sudden when i drive for about 15 mins it starts to overheat i pull over by a shop. And the guy let my car cool off, vacuumed pumped the air out and added water , before i could get hm , in overheated again , i let the car cool off, tried to re burp my car to no avail a diy, turned the car, my drive way is slated so that was an advantage, turned the heater on full blast but a funnel in and started to add coolant, frustrated for over 30,45 mins still nothing so i came in to toyota for them to find the problem first thing the next morning been here since 8.30 now its 12.45.. so they burped the system ,clean my ac system, oil change etc... so I leave excited, i get down the street and it overheats again ! I turn around and bring it back with the needle past the hot red line. No smoke or leaking anywhere....
View 3 RepliesThe driver and passenger hip bolster (side facing the door) had a fold under the leather... When I took it in for warranty they said the heating element in the seats came loose. It's probably from getting in and out of the car, and they replaced the entire element, but the GX only had about 12k miles and is 2 years old.
View 1 Replies