Prius C :: 2015 - Traction Button Can Be Retrofitted?
Nov 29, 2014
2015 c has disable TRAC button, can it be retrofitted? it's all software and ECU. So can my 2014 be retrofitted with the disable TRAC control like the 2015 .
View 7 Replies2015 c has disable TRAC button, can it be retrofitted? it's all software and ECU. So can my 2014 be retrofitted with the disable TRAC control like the 2015 .
View 7 Replies2012 Golf R ; only mod is APR software with launch control and no lift shift. When i shift hard into second power is cut like traction control is being activated. To be clear the instrument cluster indicates ASR is off. I have two codes that pop up in VCDS (no check engine light) these codes have popped up at least twice now. They are below.
005634 - Power Supply Terminal 30
P1602 - 002 - Voltage too Low - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 2
[Code] ....
My 09 camry didn't come with the traction control button. I don't want to do the pedal dance every time I want to turn it off. Is there any way to install a button to turn it off just like the factory one would?
View 1 RepliesAlright so I have an 09 Corolla sport and cannot find the traction control button. I feel extremely stupid but I just can't find it..
View 2 RepliesI've struggled all day in my tiny inspection pit fitting the catback, un-resonated A'pexi system which looks and sounds fab. Problem is the engine light and trc off light are now on?
I don't know why given the cats are still there? Have I upset the lambda sensors somehow? How to clear it? Can the fault codes be cleared a certain way?
I've got and love my 2015 GTI w/PP 6MT. Under heavy throttle, as the car loses grip, I experience a rather violent knocking, it's really violent and feels as if it's damaging the car. I'm sure it's one or more of the assists kicking in, but which one; ASC, ESC, XDS+, or is it the VAQ? I'm concerned I'm damaging my car. which systems are the culprit, how do I defeat them, and is this damaging my car?
View 14 RepliesIs it ok to turn off traction control all the time? will it make me slide around more in wet conditions? will it affect fuel economy?
View 2 RepliesDoes the traction control turn off and stay off when you push the button? I read an owners manual and the way it is written makes me wonder. It makes it sound like the traction control reengages when you put the truck in reverse. Even when you had it turned off.
What are the facts? What is the real difference between an F350 SRW at 11,200 or 11,500 GVW and one with the 10,000 GVW. Is it just paperwork or do they change springs?
I'm just under 1,000 miles on my 2015 GS350 F Sport RWD and starting to get on it a bit more now that I feel it's broken in. Tonight I put it Sport + mode and got on it from a 1st gear roll. The traction control light came on and I shifted to second and it still spun a bit more, after shifting to third and fourth I down shifted because I was turning into the neighborhood. Once I down shifted a bit more I got a few quick beeps. My wife and I were like what was that? Was it a warning that it's cold out or that I lost traction or something? When I downshifted it revved up to around 4K rpm but nothing crazy. Just wondering what these beeps were? Seem to come from the cluster area behind the steering wheel. Temps were around 38 degrees at the time.
View 2 Replies2015 AWD. How do you fully turn off the traction control?
Seems like i can press the button and it comes back in a minute. I tried holding it down.
Also, the seat belt chime. I take off my belt once I get in a parking lot, and the chime is annoying as hell.
My Pris 2010 would not start this morning. My wife tried to start the car this morning and it would not start. All the symbols on the display light up and would not go. She then tries to turn off the car, but the Triangle symbol with the exclamation mark within it lights up. The Start button light is red and the Park button flashes green. Added to that is the constant beep that you hear when you try to close the door with the keys in the car. I cannot even turn the steering wheel. I had to get it towed to the Toyota dealer and am was told that i would hear back tomorrow.
View 19 RepliesParked my car in freezing temperatures overnight and noticed the door handle's unlock button is frozen and does not work. Was still frozen after my 45 minute drive to work. Try spraying it overnight with windshield washer to prevent freezing and ice damage?
View 9 RepliesLock/unlock button on door handle failed? Over the past couple of weeks mine has iced up a couple of times. I'm pretty sure water is getting behind the button and freezing. Now it seems like the button only works intermittently, and it definitely has a spongy feel to it when you press it. Off to the dealer I guess. Though if it's because of ice it's probably going to fail every year.....
View 3 RepliesJust wondering if RC owners have noticed if the memory setting buttons on the drivers door panel forward of the door lock illuminate in low light conditions. I could swear they were illuminated at one time but now are not..
View 5 RepliesI need to troubleshoot a problem with the ABS & Traction control lights on a 2006 Mountaineer Premium with 126,000 miles. During the year that I have owned the vehicle this problem has occurred every time it is driven on a long trip. The previous owner never drove on longer trips so has no experience with this problem.
When you drive the vehicle around town and on shorter trips (less than an hour) there are no indications of problems. The ABS and Traction control lights come on as part of the start-up check cycle and go off. The ABS and Traction control work in low traction conditions and the lights function correctly when either one is activated.
The unusual behavior occurs on trips longer than an hour. Typically after about 1 1/2 hours at highway speed both the ABS and Traction control lights come on as well as the Wrench symbol in the message panel. It you hit "Reset" the Wrench symbol goes away but the ABS and Traction control lights stay on. The brakes work normally. I do not know if the ABS and Traction Control will work. I have never been in a low traction condition when the lights are on.
Both lights stay on until you stop the vehicle and turn off the ignition. When you restart the vehicle the ABS light is on but not the Traction Control light. When you start to drive the vehicle the ABS light goes out immediately.
After about 1/2 hour of driving both lights come on and the Wrench symbol displays in the message panel. Whenever you stop the vehicle and restart during the trip the cycle repeats. The day after you finish the long trip everything is normal for driving around town and on short trips.
After going through the Prius v manual, I just realized that there is no way to turn off traction control. Now, 99.9 % of the time, traction control is a good thing. But sometimes, it is useful to be able to turn it off.
View 15 RepliesHad the ABS light and traction control light come on and I wasn't getting regen when I braked anymore (which is a weird feeling). So of course I pulled over and tried restarting but the same thing happened about 10 seconds after I took off.
View 6 RepliesThis is my first year driving my prius during a hot season, and for past 3 weeks my mpg has dropped from 49 to 41-43 mpg, and the reason is my traction battery keeps getting HOT! I can hear the battery cooling fan turning on constantly at max when i reach 20 mph, my car doesn't want to start in EV mode the engine just kicks in no matter how light you press the throttle, the EV motor is not assisting with the engine, the infamous slow rpm drop keep occurring and I when to touch the traction battery case and it its HOT, Ive open up the case to check for any dust on the fan and ducts but so far its spotless. I really wished they place an AC vent for the battery because the back passenger area with full A/C doesn't t get as cold as the front dose which doesn't cool off the battery.
View 19 RepliesI don't own a Prius, but my parents own two identical 2002 models (each with 120k miles).
My mother's car wasn't driven for nearly a month (hip replacement), and when they tried to start it last week, the ready light would blink 3 times - but no cranking.
After taking it to the dealer, they were quoted $4600 to replace the traction battery and ECU. We did the mandatory research on rebuilt batteries, but with only a vague diagnosis from the dealer, we were not convinced that this was the (only) problem.
So, my brother and I decided to swap the ECU, then the battery from my father's working Prius to my mother's - thereby proving the issue. Upon removing the 'dead' battery from mother's car, I decided to open the module, and check each battery. We measured anywhere from 3.0 to 6.4V on the individual cells - and 7.0V to 11V on the paired cells. It was clear that the batteries had discharged unevenly. The total charge remaining was about 151V - still above the 40% SOC minimum I'd read about.
We then bought 5 x 10A chargers from Walmart, and connected each to a pair of modules. Set the charge to rapid (10A) and waited 30 minutes (or until the charger indicated full). After 2 hours, all 19 pair were charged fully - with each reporting 15.7V +/- 0.5V. The total power was about 295V.
We reassembled the battery, re-installed it, and the car started immediately. We let it sit running, until it cycled off on its own. About 5 min later, the ICE fired again to charge the 12V battery - but it threw a P3006 error code. It showed a PS + MAIN + battery icon on the MFD. Using an OBDII scan tool, we cleared the error, and drove the car for a few miles. The error code did not return during that drive - but did one more time after letting it cycle off/on automatically. After clearing the code a second time, it never repeated again.
My assumption is that the 300V HV charge was above the 80% SOC and it didn't like that. But after a few cranking cycles, and the tendency for the battery to discharge back to it's rated output, the error no longer repeated.
Over the last few weeks I have noted the following when I first start the car in the morning : I turn on the car, and turn on the A/C (this is Arkansas, remember, and the sun has already heated the car up pretty good). The Traction Battery is usually at 6 bar+/-
Over the next few minutes (driving uphill, maybe stopping for a minute to put trash in our trash cans, A/C on all the time), the Traction Battery goes down to 2 or 3 bars quickly. Then over the next few minutes it pretty quickly comes back up as I start driving faster (40-45) on a main road.
I am guessing this is happening now because of my A/C use. But I don't remember this happening so much in previous summers, which were at least as hot.
BTW, I start driving as quickly as possible after turning the car on (little or no warm up). So maybe some of this has to do with the car using battery energy while the engine is warming itself. But again, I never noticed this before.
Is it possible that a cell or something in the battery is going bad? Or is it just completely normal and I just never noticed it before and I'm having Traction Battery Paranoia?
I am a new owner of a 2007 Prius and as the snow will soon be here, will driving in B mode rather than D provide greater traction?
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