Prius C :: 2015 - Front End Swap
Mar 28, 2015
If the 2015 front end is a direct swap for a 2013 C? Some A-hole backed into me, and jacked up my hood and front spoiler. The aftermarket front ends are pricey, so thought this might be a good option.
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On my Gen II Prius, I want to swap the Front Side Marker with the Turn Signal. Thus, the Front Side Marker becomes my blinker and the Turn Signal bulb as my Front Marker light. Since I do not have the money or patience to clear out the front orange reflectors, i decided to swap the light functionality. I plan to get some SMD 992 bulbs to replace the current halogen and make them my side markers.
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Putting in a locking axle to replace there non locking axle? Have a 2015 f350. And found a electric locking for a great price. Can this swap be done?
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Any success story on converting 2003 or 2004 f350 with leaf spring front end to the 2005-2007 f350 coil front end is it possible?
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What all is needed to swap to the newer style and how easy is it?
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Brought the truck home the other night after having the 4:88's and locker installed. At about 65mph plus I have a severe vibration that sounds like it's coming from the front. It's bad enough I can feel it in the floorboards.
After some research I'm thinking the drive shafts need to be balanced due to the increased speed they are now running at. The u joints are good and I trust the installer did a good job putting the gears in.
Factory gears were 3:73's. 7" of lift on 37's. Any other parts other than the drive shafts?
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After a 7 year love affair with our 2005 6.0L Excursion, we bought another 6.0L today - a 2006 F250 Crew Cab. It came with front buckets/console, and the used car lot (all diesel trucks...) was nice enough to let us swap the seats out with another 2006 F250 Crew Cab on the lot that had the front captains' chairs with the center seat.
Their upholstery guy did the work with the captains' chairs, but for liability reasons they wouldn't bolt the jumpseat in, since the truck we bought didn't have the studs in place. So, they sent it home with us and we're faced with putting it in. No problem, right?
Well... we found the place for the bolts to go, and thought we were home free. BUT... (see photo) - what have we done wrong?? The first photo (driver's side bolt of center seat) is fine, but the passenger side bolt hole is too close to where the front passenger seat needs to bolt in.
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So this may be a really dumb question, but here goes. I have a new to me 2001 v10 gas 4x4 ex. It has obviously been lifted in the past. The springs seem totally shot as the back end is quite a bit lower than the front and drops dramatically while towing. I am adding a helwig and have a wd hitch but have not set it up yet. So my question is can i do the spring swap? It would seem that i would need to address whatever changes are made from the stock ride but im not sure. I like the current lift and would be fine keeping it and adding the lift from the new springs.
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I have an 07 and replaced the HV battery. Before swapping battery, I had Red Triangle, (!), VSC, Check Engine (took car to dealer who diagnosed it as needing HV battery). Now new battery is in but error-icons remain. The LCD display shows battery as more that half-charged. I connected an old Actron ODB2 scanner (circa 2000), but it doesn't Read any codes and doesn't Erase the codes causing the problem.
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I know it's not necessary, one can just leave the old one in.. But I want to mount the new relay, and not leave it hanging off a harness (that's what caused me to drop the relay in the dash in the first place)..
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My driver seat is noticeably more worn out than my passenger seat. I would like to have them swap places, thus allowing me to have virtually a 'brand new' seat. I took a quick peak around the area and it appears to be something I can attempt, but I don't want to get in over my head. Not to mention reinstalling them wrong and having some kind of a safety issue.
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I have a 2006 Prius with 186,000 miles. The engine developed a knock. I swaped the engine with one from a junk yard. The swap went well. I reconnected the HV battery and the 12v battery. When I tried to start the car I recieve the red triangle with many other dash displays and (!) over the car in the upper left corner of the system screen. I checked for codes with a code scanner, all I can see is $7ea and $7eb. When I clear them the (!) disapears for about 5 seconds and the word problem displays and then tha(!) comes back. The 12v battery reads 12.4 volts.
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I have an 06 Prius. I bought it with a broken/leaking transmission about 3 months ago. I drove the car home and it sat for a few months, then I drove it into my garage to start working on it a few weeks ago. I just finished up with the trans swap this evening and I went to "start" the car to get the coolant circulating/blead, and the car would not start. I get nothing, I just get a blinking red light in the shape of a car with a key in the center.
I am pretty sure this is the immobilizer symbol. What can I do to reset/fix this? This is my first prius and I have not driven this one more than 50 miles so it could be something silly that I am just not familiar with. This is what I am doing...I get in the car, put the key in the key slot, and I push the brake, then I hit the power button...I get nothing, other than the blinking light on the dash.
I went back out to the car and messed around a little bit. When I put the key in the slot I get what I described above...nothing. But if I don't put the key in the slot, and just push the power button the display comes on but I am not able to shift into any thing other than park or neutral. When I am able to power up with out the key in the slot I get a red car with an explanation point going through it at the top left of the screen.
Then at the display just below the windshield most of the lights stay lit up. What does this point towards? Why would the car not try to go into Drive or Reverse? And what's going on with my key? The only two times I have driven this car i just put the key in the slot and it turned right on and I drove away, now with the key in it will not do anything.
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My 2015 GTI is making rattling noises over small bumps. It sounds like a loose ball joint or tie rod end. I had the sway bar link recall work done. It's definitely a loose metal part rattle. My dealer can't look at it until next Tuesday.
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I've been thinking about doing a 2015 conversion on my Ex for some time. Well today I rear ended a little old lady and it seems like this is as good a time as any to get it done. I have only seen 04 and earlier models getting it done. My first question is can an 05 be converted? Second, is there a comprehensive parts list of everything i'm gonna need.
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My front driver side wheel is making clicking, ticking noise whenever I turn right. I am not sure what it is. Other than the clicking and ticking noise when turning, the car itself is running fine.
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I have my car for about a month now and I noticed that the front park lights are not working. The turn signal bulb has 2 filaments and 2 contacts (1157 bulbs) and yet the only ones that light up are those for the turn signals. No park lights when the switch is in park position or headlights on position.
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I noticed earlier this afternoon that when I opened my front passenger door to reach in and get my phone out, the hinge creaked/squeaked. Everytime I would open/close the door it would make the sound. This door has only been opened about 5 times since I bought the car on April 30th. I have never heard tell of this on a new car, so it is disappointing. Had I had a passenger in the car and they heard that, well it would have been a little embarrassing on a brand new car. It sounded like a 30 year old car that had never had its door hinges oiled. It may just need some grease or something, but I would think this should have been lubed properly during assembly.
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Since I bought my F350 last Jan. I have several times had prolonged instances of a severe grinding noise coming from the front end, seemingly the left side. At slow speed in a turn (shallow or steep) a horrible grinding sound is apparent as well as a vibration in the steering wheel. At 9k miles a dealer said it was the wheel bearings and replaced both sides. I now have 12.5K and it is worse than ever. My local dealer says it is normal but that has to be bull. It is is worse after I drop my fiver after towing. It is a 4x2 with the 6.7 diesel. I love the performance but this front end issue is a real problem.
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My 2015 camry front dome light switch is broken. This is the push type light. I am not sure how but today i was trying to turn the light on and noticed it wasn't turning on. When i opened the lens cover to switch the bulb i noticed the button was missing and the other side has a button. I don't understand why the light will not turn on when i open the door either. I tried sticking some thing small in to the broken part where the button used to be and it turns on if i do that, but i would have to hold it in place which is pretty inconvenient. What can i do to fix this? it seems like i have to replace the whole overhead assembly. Is there a cheap fix? i would be happy if the light comes on when i at least open the door.
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Several times it would have been nice just to pull the plastic grills off and clean out the bugs. What are the details on how you can do this?
Using a tube to vacuum tube through the grill holes can result in bending the fins. Attached is an example hack at a coin op on a road trip. Need a better way.
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