Prius C :: 2012 - Shakes Violently - No Check Engine Light Came On
Mar 5, 2014
My boyfriend and I took a trip up to Mount Hood from Portland, Ore. When we got to the campsite we unpacked, had campfire, beer and relaxing lakeside walk. The evening was warm and balmy. The next morning when we were headed down the mountain we started up the car and it shook so violently from the front right side my boyfriend and I bailed out of the car almost in James Bond panic. We looked under the hood and found nothing (expecting a squirrel).
We waited about 20 minutes and then restarted the car having no access to the greater world (no reception). The second time nothing happened. We coasted down the mountain most of the way. I then took the car back to the Broadway Toyota and they had no idea what had happened. Mind you I took her in for 5,000 check up 5 days before going up the mountain. I am wondering if it could be gas related? Altitude related? No check engine light or anything.
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I remember the days when we experienced flat spots on our tires. I have been told by several dealers that it no longer occurs. well then there is something else wrong then. Starting the day for about 15 miles the front end shakes-sometimes violently. after 15 miles or so then things are ok. the dealer cannot reproduce the problem. he is 25 miles away.. i have 30 thousand miles on the tires-they are original..need an answer-really don't weant to buy new tires..my car is a 2012 Hyundai santé fe
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I have a 2012 with 2500 miles. Everything feels fine, but the check engine light came on today. It is a holiday weekend and tomorrow, Sunday we are supposed to hit the road for a 500 mile trip. I checked the gas cap since I filled 60 miles ago and this forum indicated that can be the source of the light. Sure enough it was on but not tightened. The light is still on. Dare I drive?
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My son got this for his '05 Prius, and I plugged it into my PiP for awhile. I am learning to brake more slowly and accelerate more gradually, but the mileage is obviously way off. That seems to be about all it's good for, unless a check engine light comes on.
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The engine check light is ON this morning. It said that there are problems for the hybrid system on the display. I sent it to dealer immediately.
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I have run into a bit of a dilemma with my recently purchased 2010 Camry SE.
Whenever I shift into reverse, the car jerks or shakes for a moment. The engine light is also on.
Before, when I put the car into reverse,there'd also be a knock sound along with a vibration, but the engine light was never on.
Now today, when I put the car in reverse, the vibration/shake/jerk is VERY noticeable and the car almost rocks back and forth for a brief second when this happens and the Engine light stays on.
note that this only happens when I put the car into reverse.
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I drive a 2003 Honda Accord and it shakes violently whenever I'm accelerating between 55 and 65 mph. If you put a shaker on the passenger seat, you'd have a martini. Approaching 55, it's fine, and then it shakes as I go up to 65 and then smooths out when I pass 65. If I am cruising, but not accelerating in between 55 and 65, it stops shaking, but once I hit the gas, it shakes.
The same phenomenon occurs in both third and fourth gears, so it doesn't appear to be related to what part of the power band the car is in. This model Accord had a recall on the engine mounts, which I had replaced at no small cost already.
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My 2004 Acura TL with 6 speed manual transmission has an issue. When the RPMs go between 1200 and 2000 the car shakes violently as if the engine isn't attached or is trying to get away. At idle it's silky smooth and after 2000 RPM it feels fine too. The gear I'm in doesn't matter and this shaking happens whether I'm standing still or driving... it just happens in the 1200-2000 RPM range. Again, this is not a small amount of vibration, I'm talking about seriously shaking the whole car.
This is what I've done so far:
1. Replaced the three engine mounts two days ago, and double checked the transmission mounts and they seem fine. At the same time my mechanic discovered a few bolts on the subframe that were loose, and we tightened those.
2. Replaced O2 sensor that was causing check engine light and it's fine now.
3. Timing belt, clutch and power steering was done by previous owner maybe 3-4 months ago.
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My 2001 Accent doesn't give me any power when its cold in fact when I try starting it when its cold, the car will start and then after 1-2 min would violently (may be that's a little too strong a word to describe it) shake and then stall. This happens about 1-2 times and then the car finally starts.
If I drive my car uphill (not a very big), after heating it up, car would just start moving along slowly (or stall) even on the first gear and full gas. And sometimes while driving the car loses all power. It just trudges along no matter how much gas I press,
I no nothing about cars, so I am not sure if I conveyed my problem correctly. I just hope that the problem is fixable and wont cost me my entire salary to fix.
P.S: I always thought that the problem was me and that I couldn't drive a manual. Today a friend of the mine, who has been driving manual for 20 years also had the same trouble.
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I occasionally experience steering wheel vibration no matter what speed I'm traveling. It starts out as a small shake and eventually becomes nearly impossible to hold onto the steering wheel. On two separate occasions, the brakes have gone out.The car has passed PA state safety inspection and I have taken it to 3 different mechanics and no one can figure out what the problem is. I have had new tires and spark plugs installed, keep up with regular oil changes, etc.
2004 Toyota Corolla S, 4 cylinders, 1.81 l engine, 240,000 miles, manual transmission..
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2001 F150 4x4 harsh shaking. When driving at consistent speeds the truck begins to shutter and shake, begins as a light shake and becomes extremely harsh fast. This is not like a vibration that can be felt, but a really harsh shaking of the entire truck.
The truck continues to shake after taking foot off gas and braking. It will shake harshly even when braking and slowed down to 5mph, but instantly goes away once at a complete stop. Accelerate immediately after coming to a complete stop and it completely goes away and drives normal for a day.
Check Engine light has not come on. Tachometer stays consistent RPM. Shift into neutral does not stop shaking. Only coming to a complete stop ether in drive or neutral does the shaking stop. It happens driving at consistent speeds going 35mph & 65mph, etc. Any thoughts on what the issue could be?
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Problem: 55-60+ mph hit a bump front end shakes violently. Slow down to 40 mph it stops. DOES NOT happen every time, and may only happen once a week, but when it does my whole front end feels like it will come loose.
Solutions to date that have not worked:
1. Rotate and balance tires. (tire shop)
2. New shocks. (me)
3. New steering stabilizer. (me)
4. Changed ball joint and bushing in track bar. (Dealership)
5. Check ball bearings and seem to be ok. (me)
6. Check tie rod ends and are ok. (Dealership)
The only other options people have given me:
1. Dual Steering Stabilizer. (Have had truck since Jan and hasn't done it in about 19,000 miles. Why would it need it now? Truck has 109,000 miles on it.)
2. New tires. (If it were the tires wouldn't it do it all the time? )
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I have a 2000 f350 v10 ext cab 8 ft bed 4wd,i replaced all 10 plugs all 10 coils at 40 mph the truck violently shakes an vibrates read on a few things that could be crack cylinder or bad pistons,i did a test on it an says low compression in 2 cylinders 1&2 what can I do an what is the best option for me as I just got the truck not even a month ago...
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My check engine light just came on while driving home tonight. And there seems to be a weird rattly engine noise on the passenger side.
Just took the car to the mountains (800km round trip) all highway and got back Thursday night. Didn't drive yesterday, and today I took it out for a bit and it felt sort of loose... I don't know how else to explain it. Throttle didn't seem as responsive. I've only just hit the 6000km mark on it, and had the flash done at 4000km.
What in the world is wrong with my car? And now I can't even take it in til Tuesday because of the holiday.
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I have a 2010 camry and I am coming up on 15000 miles so i know im going to be due for another maintenance. accordingly, the "maintenance required" flasher started going off, so i thought it was all good and i should just take it to the dealership soon. well this morning when i started it up, it started flashing the "maintenance req" but once i backed out and put it in drive, the check engine light popped up as well as the traction control light (car with squiggly tire marks behind it).
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Was trying to change my reverse light on my 12 camry. I wanted to make sure the bulbs were working before I put everything back together. I put on the emergency brake put the car in the on position and put the car in reverse. Went to check the bulbs and nothing. Put the old bulbs in, nothing. Started the ignition and noticed that the the check engine light was on and also the P, R, N or D was not showing in the display. Let the car sit for a while and still the the same thing. What happened. All other lights work fine.
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Today my check engine light turned on, not sure why car is still running perfectly fine ( from what i can tell ) .
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My Toyota Corolla has 210,000. The check engine and air bag lights are on and my mechanic has explained that the issue with the check engine light can not be fixed. Therefore, the car will not pass its next State inspection. I wish I could wait for the late 2014 re-design of the Toyota Corolla wagon but it looks like I can't.
I need a hatchback this time. I am a Realtor and have to shlep a lot of signs. I also have to have space for my father's wheel chair. Further, I have to clean out 50 years worth of stuff from his house. The regular compact hatchbacks (Focus, Matrix, Impreza), etc. do not have enough space. This is the only reason I am deciding between two much bigger vehicles (the Prius V and the Honda CRV).
I would definitely lean towards the Prius V because of the 16 mpg difference in its favor but have CONTINUOUSLY heard that it is very unstable in heavy rain and snow.
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So I have a 2012 Toyota Camry SE V6. Back in december I got into a front end accident, had the front repaired, (they did remove the coolant container and refilled it etch) Got my car back on December 22, coolant was full. A few days ago, checked again and i noticed the white coolant container was empty (there were some pink at a corner, i guess because the hose doesn't reach that low), i checked the metal cap, it was not "completely" empty just had a very very low layer of pink coolant. (i would say just some coolant at the surface)
I do recall a sweet burning smell maybe a month or 2 ago, but my engine light did not ever come on. When i refilled it, (my dad recommended to refill just half) I did that, a day later, i checked the levels again, it was empty again. so i refilled it to half again. i drove this morning for about 10 mins, its still at the same level (maybe i didn't drive it long enough?)
I'm freaking out whether i have been driving the car without coolant for that long, and whether there were any engine damage done (even though the engine light didn't come on) I have driven the car alittle over 5k since i got the car back.
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My check engine light came on about 4 days ago on my 2014 toyota camry. Found the gas cap was loose that same day it came on and tightened but light is still on and Eco mode not coming on. Is it possible the problem is something else or does it take longer for the light to turn off.
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My check engine light is on. I have a 2013 Camry LE with only 13,000 miles. I immediately checked my gas cap and found that it was extremely loose. My spouse put gas in my car a few days ago and apparently did not tighten it afterwards. I tightened the gas cap after discovering this but the check engine light did not go off. Does the light will go off eventually if the cause of was a loose gas cap? If the light isn't going to go off on its own, is there anything that I can do to reset it myself?
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