Prius C :: 2012 - Revving Noise When Releasing The Accelerator
Sep 27, 2013
I've had my 2012 PriusC for about a year now and I'm loving it. As of a week ago the car has started doing this revving thing. I notice that the engine seems louder when I'm accelerating and it seems like I'm getting 30-40mpg instead of the usual 40-50 in cities (but it might just be me).
What worries me is that when I'm driving and I push on the pedal to accelerate, after I release the pedal there is a very loud whirring sound of the engine. It sounds like a MuscleCar or Racecar that is revving it's engine but not going anywhere. This sound happens if I accelerate lightly or severely and the revving sound is louder the harder I accelerate. I notice that if I accelerate and then ease off of the gas slowly, I don't hear the revving sound.
I notice that this seems to happen randomly, as in I start the car and it happens from the start, or I start the car and it doesn't happen at all for that drive.
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I noticed that when I'm stepping on the gas pedal, revving up, when I release the gas pedal I can hear the engine revving up some more instead of slowing down.
When I release the pedal even if the revolution light on the dashboard shows that it is slowly dropping, the engine is still making the noise as if I am stepping on the gas harder for about a second.
Example: I am at a stop, when I start going from 0 to 30 mph, if I release the gas right away that's when I notice this issue.
This doesnt happen when I'm cruising on the same speed and suddenly release the gas.
I wonder if this is an indication the my tranny is having a problem.
I have a 2013 prius C 2...
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After stepping over gas pedal revving up, when I release the gas pedal I can hear the engine revving up some more instead of slowing down.
When I release the pedal, the engine is still making the noise as if I am stepping on the gas harder for about 3 seconds. when this happened, EV mode will be always not available, and gasoline consumption is increased. Getting lower MPG.
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On releasing the clutch pedal, a creaking noise can be heard, which:
- sounds and feels like a rusty spring being unloaded
- occurs for the entire range of pedal travel, but worse near the bottom
- is louder outside the car than inside
- happens not only when driving, but also when stationary with the engine off
I don't think anything is wrong with the clutch itself, or any bearings, or major components... It just feels like something needs to be lubed. I've lubed the spring above the pedal inside the car, with no real effect.
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2013 accent auto My car rolls noticeably after parking unless the ground is completely flat. Parking brakes prevents it from rolling but I don't use parking brakes every time. Another brake problem I have is thump or clunk noise I get whenever I release a brake from stop.
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I have replaced the MAF sensor, TPS sensor, and fuel filter. Like the title says...if I rev the engine ...as soon as I let off the accelerator the engine stumbles and almost dies...then settles back down. I initially pulled codes PO121 so I replaced the TPS. PO103 so I replaced the MAF sensor. PO112..did not address directly as I assumed the MAF was causing. PO1123...again I hoped the parts I replaced would solve the problem. Initially the engine would just drop out while driving just for an instant and then be fine...also I had the 4 codes mentioned above. The only code that has returned is the PO121. I just got done replacing the fuel filter and things seem to be worse.
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I'm rolling down the freeway in stop and go traffic, so I have been EV stacking. Clicked from EV to HV several times over the course of 5 minutes. Then, I hear this fairly high pitched revving sound - even and constant rev up, not rev/idle/rev. I thought it was the truck next to me, so I turn down the radio and away from the truck but it happened again. I would stomp on the gas for a moment, and it would subside - not completely because it would start doing it again very soon. I'm not accelerating, but it would be like throwing it into neutral and revving. When I come to a complete stop, it would not go to EV - the light isn't on like when it is warming up the ICE.
My exit was coming up soon, so I would alternate pumping the brake and gas to get it to stop. Only when I was at the light that I powered off the car to reboot. Since then, it did not recur. Strange... Perhaps related, but I doubt it - I had bumped into a vehicle around 3-4 mph the day before. I was... drowsy.
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I bought a new 2014 Prius plug-in base model two weeks ago. No problems until yesterday.
The engine has started revving really loudly on occasion. It's much louder than the normal ICE noise in hybrid mode - 2 or 3x as loud (much louder than our regular Honda Civic engine).
When the revving happens when I'm in EV mode, the EV mode light on left side of dash stays on (but it's clearly not in EV mode). The EV and Eco symbols above the power bar go blank. The MPG won't go above 25 mpg, no matter if I'm not touching the accelerator. Switching from EV to Hybrid mode and back does nothing.
The only way to get it to stop is to stop the car, turn it off, turn it back on, and then it's fine - EV or Hybrid mode, it sounds normal again. I have not tried to drive more than a mile with the noise to see if it goes away. It occurs when:
-If the fan, heat or defrost is on when I turn the car on - turning them off doesn't stop the revving.
-If I switch the fan, heat or defrost on when stopped at a light - turning off doesn't stop it. (But it doesn't happen if I turn heat or defrost on while moving in EV or Hybrid mode.)
-If I switch from EV to Hybrid mode while stopped at a light.
The weather is cooler now and I'm fine with the ICE starting to warm up the engine, the compartment, etc, but the revving noise doesn't seem normal.
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I should probably arm myself with a sound clip, you can hear it with radio off windows up, but more prevalent outside or windows down. whenever I stop and release the brake, there is a metallic clank noise that is heard outside the car. now I didn't want to bring it up to the dealer, but at my last service interval, I test drove a brand new Prius C and I could not duplicate it. So I don't know if its something that developed after it brakes in and is normal.. The prius C I test drove was utterly quite going from brake to gas until the point the whirling sound starts. mine has a metallic clank and it usually is not immediately as I release but within a second, and I thought maybe it was a change in the regen system, but now I am more curious as a brand new one did not make that sound.
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I get a clunk noise when stepping on and releasing the brakes occasionally but not always. This occurs even with the engine off and the vehicle stationary. I also hear some other noise like some sort of vacuum servo thing is happening.
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I had 2 brake related issues. First was a honking noise when pressing/releasing the brake pedal (covered by T-SB-0363-10, attached below). Second was rear brake squeaks, particularly when backing up (T-SB-0102-11, attached below). I had the squeak issue repaired under a previous TSB a few years ago, but the noise came back after a while, and the updated TSB includes replacing the pads and other parts.
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Today while driving, I was declining down a rather steep grade. I had my cruise control set at 65mph. As I was driving, I heard an odd noise, almost like my Prius was "revving" in a neutral gear. The battery was at a full or near full charge when this happened.
I found somewhere "What you're hearing is the engine braking - just what you'd expect when using B. The engine spins (pumps air) to slow down. At some point, if you have heavily charged your battery on the descent, the engine will be spun by the electric motor just to bleed off that excess electricity."
Only problem being, I was not in the "B" gear, I was in "D".
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I've been having some issues with my car lately, 2012 Accent 1.6 manual transmission 36,000km aprox. The RPM climbs after I release the clutch, for example I'm going from 1st gear to 2nd, or 2nd to 3rd or any change of gears around 2,500rpm and when I release the clutch the RPM climbs to 2,800 or so and stays like that a couple of seconds, today the RPM climbed from 2,500 to 3,000-3,200 and stayed like that again for a couple of seconds.
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2006, 112k mi. there's been a whine-like noise that only happens when the accelerator is pressed ( and mostly noticed at highway speeds) and stops immediately when accelerator is released..
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2007 with 85000 miles. This noise appeaser only between 64 to 69 miles/hours, either manually pressing pedal or when crus control is on. A/C on or off. Noise goes away as soon as i let off the gas pedal. the noise is not very load it sounds like, when mechanical fuel pump stars going bad.
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My 2012 Hybrid engine will idle up after releasing the gas. The engine is sufficiently charged when this happens.
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So I was driving on the highway a couple of days ago in my 2012 GTI and I noticed that I was really having trouble getting up to speed. I was going 65 mph and the speed increased to 70, so I tried going faster, only when I pressed down on the pedal nothing happened.
The car just kept revving. Later when I got the city I noticed that the car wouldn't shift, so I put it in manual mode and shifted it myself. Couple of hours later lo and behold the check engine light turns on.
The car is at the dealership now and I just found out it was the fuel pump. My car has only 26,544 miles on it and I have had it tuned by APR but I don't know if that caused the issue.
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Today I started my car (in the garage so it wasn't too cold) and everything was fine. The car warmed up in a couple minutes and I was off.
As i was driving, I noticed that my shifting was horrible. It felt like i was burning the clutch and not releasing the clutch smoothly in general.
I then noticed that when i pressed in the clutch ready to take the next gear, the engine would raise the rpm's about 500-1000 revs before coming down.
I started to wait till the revs came down to shift and that seems to work.
Why would the engine be revving itself higher the second after i push the clutch in. My dealer can't take me until Wednesday so I don't know what to do.
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I'm looking at changing the height of the accelerator pedal so it's more inline with the brake pedal to make heel toe shifting easier, because at the moment I cannot get my heel anywhere near where the accelerator is.
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I have a 2009 Acura MDX. This morning I was sitting in my car for a few minutes after turning it on. All of the sudden I heard a very loud noise like air pressure being released. Then there was white smoke coming into the cabin that smelled like burnt rubber. I turned off the car then turned it back on, and again this sound began after it idled for a couple minutes. Then my husband came home from work to check it out, and of course it did t do it. But we think the exhaust smoke may be a little whiter than normal and has a slight burnt smell to it.
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I have a 2005 Silverado Crew Cab 1500 with a 5.3V8, discs in front, drums in rear.
Series of events:
2011- Grinding noise from passenger front tire. Sounded like metal on metal. Removed tire to find that inside brake pad was completely worn down. I thought, at the time, that the pad separated from the plate, and fell off. I noticed at the time that my caliper was stiff (not releasing). No other (apparent) problems at the time. Drivers side pads looked as expected when I replaced them.
December 2012- Grinding noise from Drivers side front tire. I pulled the tire and found that the inside pad was completely worn. All the other pads looked fine. Still noticed that both tires were difficult to spin while in the air.
Feb 2013- Fuel economy has dropped an average of 3 mpg, since December. Started hearing an intermittent squealing/grinding noise from the front end. Seems to only happen when turning left (that could also be from my proximity to the front tire). I had my dad stand outside the truck while driving in circles. He said he couldn't be sure it was coming from the drivers tire. Sometimes the noise is loud. Sometimes its faint. The majority of the time there is no noise. The check engine light came on and I had a C0035 and a C0055. They are a Drivers side front speed sensor and a Vehicle Speed Sensor. Decided to change the drivers side caliper. I used pliers (yes I know I shouldn't have done that) to pinch the brake line to minimize fluid loss. Bled the line.
March 2013- Brakes have partially locked up on me twice in the last three days. I thought there was an electrical fire in my truck based on the smell of the brakes. I couldn't press the pedal. It was like pushing on a boulder. They didnt completely lock, but I could tell they were stuck. The second time it happened I drove immediately home and jacked up the front end. I could barely get the drivers tire to move. I cracked the lines from the master cylinder and some fluid came out. At that point, after reattaching the line, I could spin the tire easier than I have ever been able too in recent history.
Now, Ive read that the speed sensors on my truck are problematic. I'm inclined to think, since cracking the lines on master cylinder released the caliper, that the master cylinder is the problem. I just have difficulty rationalizing that the master cylinder would cause this problem, as of recently, predominately in the drivers side. It could be happening in the passenger tire as well, but it is not apparent.
I also use the parking brake every time I park my truck, even though its an Auto. I don't know why, but its habit.
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