Prius C :: 2012 - Horn Honking At Random Times
Aug 24, 2012
My wife was driving our 2012 Prius C that we bought new three months ago and as we were backing out of a parking space the horn sounded in a stuttering pattern. She stopped and the horn did too. As she continued to back up the horn stuttered again, this time I was watching her hands and the steering wheel. She was not touching it except in a normal driving manner. Nothing touching the center of the steering wheel. Looking over the dashboard displays we saw nothing abnormal.
As we drove out of the parking lot the horn fully sounded for a split second then stopped. We turned left onto the street and as she straightened the wheel the horn started blowing like it was in alarm mode; on-off-on-off. We pulled into a parking lot, shut off the car and the horn stopped. Drove 12 miles home with no further problem.
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Yesterday my horn started honking when I turned the wheel. At first I thought I had brushed the horn with the heel of my hand, but then I was careful and it continued to honk when I turned. My temporary solution was to disconnect the horns until I can get it to the dealer.
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When I drove my 2012 Prius 3 today, the fuel indicator was flashing as I had about 20 miles until empty. I was on my way to get gas when suddenly, the horn was honking as if the alarm was going off. Nothing I did seemed to stop the horn, even clicking the unlock button on the key fob. Intermittently, the horn would stop, then start up again in a stuttering fashion, only to be followed by the incessant honking I mentioned earlier. I have a video of this but it must be too large to upload.
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I have a 2010 Prius IV and set the doors to all unlock when I touched the driver's door handle. Annoyingly, now when I touch the raised spot on the handle (either driver or passenger side) to lock all the doors the car does the beep but also briefly toots the horn. The horn also toots when I touch the handle to unlock.
My old 2005 Prius VI just did the beeping (which my neighbors and I can live with) but the addition of a honking horn, however brief, is pretty annoying. I can't seem to find a place to disable this unwanted feature...
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I have a 2010 Prius V that is honking the horn in the middle of the night and sometime in the middle of the day ( 5 short honks of the horn). This has been occurring over the last few months.
1. Only one key FOB and it is stable ( not in a pocket or something pushing a button)
2. Car is confirmed to be locked before this occurs.
3. No alarm issue from what I can tell ( I get up right away and no one or animal is around the car)
3. Cannot find root cause on a current thread although one person stated that it might be that the 12 VDC battery is starting to go bad???
No other issue with the car.
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A few months back on a really hot day my horn randomly started honking while driving. I pulled the fuse as a quick fix and brought it into a body shop. They initially thought it was something to do with the airbag part and ordered one, but ended up making new bushings instead. The center of the steering wheel was a bit off-center and the left side was pretty sensitive but it worked for a couple weeks. When it started happening again I used a couple pieces of gorilla tape to dampen the vibration and that worked for about a month and a half but last week it started happening again. Now it's only during right turns and when it gets bumped just so. Applying light pressure to the left side of the steering wheel seems to work but sure makes my commute a pain. My first instinct is to take the air bag module out and reattach it but I'm worried about messing with the airbag.
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Occasionally, when I use the key (not the key fob) to open the driver door, after turning the key, the horn will beep-beep-beep-beep.
Then, I put the key back in the keyslot, lock the door & unlock it, and it stops. Why that happens?
2014 Elantra with Preferred Package. (My key fob is nowhere near the car. It is just with the key).
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My car horn starts honking and the lights start flashing, spontaneously. The neighbors are going to kill me if I don't die of sleep deprivation first. The problem started a few minutes after 6 a.m. yesterday, and stopped when I turned the car on I left the car running in the driveway (illegally) and then cut it off after about 30 minutes, and all was quiet until around 8:45 a.m., when it started again. The only way I can get it to stop is to press the UNLOCK button on the car's remote; but that doesn't make it quit for good, sometimes only makes it quit for a few seconds.
Anyway, I drove the car to work and it was nice and quiet all day. (I went by the mechanic's on the way to work and had to set an appt. for Monday but I don't think I can stand it until then. This morning the honking/flashing began at 1:52 a.m. I pushed the remote. It stopped until 2:08. It kind of went like that until I finally started up the car. It is now emitting carbon and I am a zombie. What can I disable or override until a mechanic can take care of this? Is it a mechanical problem? A goofed-up sensor? Is this tied to a computer chip problem?
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I have a 96 explorer XLT 4.0 4 wheel drive. The alarm will start honking the horn after the alarm has been activated. It usually takes a few hours then it goes off. I was in extreme temps and was thinking that was it. I am in another state now and it's not that cold here. Could it be a battery in the fob? I have gone to each door and rear hatch to make sure nothing was left open.
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I have a 2001 F250 V10, 150,000 miles, gas, very basic truck (no power windows, no cruise, no security system, no power locks, etc). In it's previous life, it was an IDOT highway truck I purchased at auction in 2005. Used primarily to pull horse trailer, less than 2000 miles per year. Stored under cover when not in use. Windshield leaks very little, but generally not used when raining.
Last week, 9pm, horn starts blaring solid tone. I go out and unlock door, open door, it stops. I start truck, still fine, turn truck off. Lock door, close door, starts blaring again. I reopen door, leave unlocked, close door, then get intermittent beeps. I reopen door, disconnect battery because it's late, I was going out of town, and felt bad for my neighbors. Just got back in town, too afraid to reconnect battery and not be home in case it starts going off again. I had last used the truck about 36 hours before the horn started going off, weather about 70 degrees overnight.
I've read other threads, but can't find one that fits (I have no cruise, kept out of rain, not freezing cold, not diesel).
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My Prius's horn goes off intermittently few times during the day and night. It is happened every hour and the horn goes off repeatedly 6 time "Pi-Pi-Pi-Pi-Pi-Pi". I don't know why horn goes off intermittently. I checked my car, but I cannot aware any problem so far.
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I have a 1998 VW Passat station 1.81 Turbo that has started to do something weird. After driving the car, after the car has been parked for 1-2 hours, the car's horn starts honking and the lights start flashing- all this for 20 seconds (approx). We don't have a remote clicker to the car, or after market alarm, so it is not an accidental hit on the button. This started a week ago, and was once a day, now sometimes it is 2 x a day. We purchased this car from our landlord who will buy it back at the end of our stay. We have already replaced clutch and fixed numerous oil leaks. What could cause this?
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It seems like there are a few instances where the HSI doesn't really act like it does the rest of the time. The first case is going from EV to HV during that warm up period. Another is when you are out of EV range but the HV battery shows full bars. The HSI seems to jump around a lot more and not necessarily follow what your foot is doing. It's perfect the rest of the time.
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I have a 98 Grand Prix 3.8 with about 170,000 miles on it. Yesterday I tried to start it, and it would crank but not start. Let me provide some background info . . . We had received cold temps and snow recently and the vehicle is parked outside. The car ran fine the day before in colder temps. Yesterday morning I was scooping the snow next to the car and I bumped into it causing the alarm to go off. The horn honked 4 or 5 times and then stopped. Later when I tried to start it, it would just crank. At first I thought it was the fuel pump since I could not hear it. The fuse was fine. I then noticed the DIC was flashing 0 on all modes.
On another thread I saw that is often due to a loss of data between the DCI and PCM. I thought perhaps I tripped the security system when I bumped into it which is preventing it from getting fuel, and perhaps was also causing the DIC to show 0. A GM service tech said to put the key in the run position for 10 minutes then turn it off, and then do this two more times and that should clear the security system and the car should start. I tried it and it did not work. I am starting to think it may be a bad PCM. Stopped at my local Oreillys to check out their code reader, but they no longer check them out to take home. It must be used there.
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I have had this happen two or three times and don't know how to reproduce reliably. With my FOB in me, car beeps a few times when trying to open the driver's door. This is repeatable when in this mode; that is, trying to open the door produces few beeps but door will not open. The last time this happened, I clicked the open button in the FOB, and this produced the few beeps without unlocking the door. The passenger door opens, and my wife can unlock driver's door from the inside, and then I can turn car on and go as if nothing had happened. The best I recall this has happened in the garage. which is why the passenger door is unlocked, but don't know why driver's door is locked. Again, this has not happened enough to recall the pattern.
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I have a problem with my wife's 2010 Corolla where the AC only comes on at random times. The blower blows constantly, but only blows cold air every once in awhile. When it blows the cold air, it feels perfect. We had it checked at three different places and they still haven't found out what's wrong.
The first place refilled the coolant and got it working, but it only lasted a day. When we took it back they said it worked fine for them, but took it home and again it crapped out the next day. Took it back to them and they couldn't figure it out.
Second place said it needed a new or refurbished compressor, but that didn't make sense to me since when it's working, it works great. Also pressure was normal on hi and lo.
Third place took a look at it today and said they got it to work briefly by turning on the heat??? Doesn't make sense. They're closed on weekends so we'll take it back to them on Monday and they'll continue to troubleshoot.
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I have a 1999 Buick Regal GS with a supercharged 3.8 liter engine and 161,000 miles. I bought the car off of my uncle and he said he would have to change plug wires every month to month and a half because it would start missing so bad. When I first drove the car it would quit on me at red lights and in parking lots, it only seemed to do it at low idle speeds. I live on a hill with a blacktop road and I had to give it a lot of gas just to pull the hill it was missing so bad. The plug wire had a lifetime warranty on them so I replaced them and it stopped quitting on me but I still had a bad miss at random but not as bad it would just be like hard jerks. I added sea foam fuel injection cleaner and had the fuel filter replaced. The mechanic checked the spark plugs and he said they were like new AC Delco. I also cleaned the MAF Sensor (the mechanic told me to and how) because the engine did not run steady at idle and it seemed to work that, but not the miss. Could my problem be the plug wires? They are carquest brand 7mm wires.
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I have a 01 wolfsburg jetta with aw engine code .. I have replaced and gaped spark plugs all 4 coils , DV. As well as fuel filter . Sometimes it runs fine . It misfire at random times most often at WOT. ..and I've noticed almost always when fuel level is low.. installed a boost gauge .. after disconnecting battery to reset ecu it boosts 10psi and runs strong .. however 1 or 2 WOT and it will misfire and then I won't boost over 4-5 PSI .. worst of all I get no CEL not even blinking .. I have also located a leak in the brake booster line . Does this affect it at all? ..
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I have a 2003 Passat and it won't start at random times. The battery would loose all it's charge but has the battery tested and it was fine. Hooked a voltmeter to the battery and with engine off got 12.4v. Right when I start it it would drop to about 10.6-11.1v. While running it would show 14.1v and with all accessories on and running at about 2000rpm it would read 13.6v.
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I have read all the answers about the alarm going off at random times, mine just started tonight and dealership is closed. Is there anything that I can do to keep it from going off and waking the neighborhood?
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I recently brought my 2000 chrysler sebring in because the alarm was going off at random times (3:00am). Also when I was driving the interior lights would turn on and off and the dash readout would say "DOOR" as if I had opened the door, there was a relay clicking sound under the dash and the car would also try to relock the doors. This was an intermittent problem, occasionally the car would be fine for a while then the show would begin. I took it to a local Chrysler dealer and they diagnosed the problem to be the BCM or Body Control Module.
My conclusion is that this whole problem was caused by a shorting door switch and that either they misdiagnosed the problem and when the new BCM did not fix the problem they found the real problem in the door switch or they just scammed me from the start. I think the "part exchange program" is a scam. Why don't I get the part back or why don't I get two prices, one if I exchange the part and one if I don't.
Could a faulty driver door switch damage a BCM? (I never heard of this before. In fact another dealer told me all he needed was the VIN to see if the part was in stock).
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