My 2012 prius C engine suddenly started reving up even after taking my foot off the peddle and it doesnt go back in to EV mode at lower speeds as usual ...it is something wrong with the senses ?? Do i need to my car to the dealership ?
View 5 RepliesWhen I drive the PiP in EV Boost mode, the gas engine rpm stays very low, so is the engine sound. It sounds like it is just idling since it revs at 1,000 rpm.
When I am going 75 mph, the engine revs at very low rpm and I had a hard time keeping it below 80 mph. My mind is tricked into believing I am going slower than the actual speed. I think I am using the sound of the engine to judge the speed or something.
It felt like I am driving a different car, one with two more cylinders.
EV Boost is when you are in EV and go above 65 mph. ICE comes on and blend gas with electricity.
Is it just me? What are your experience in the EV Boost / Blended mode?
I bought my Hyundai new in late 2011. No problems with the car (other than no spare tire???) until just out of the warranty (63,000). Had a noticeable drop in power on the highway. No warning lights. Drove another 100 miles with power intermittently dropping. Next day engine light comes on. $800 later I have a new high pressure fuel pump. All seems well. after a few weeks, I notice that the car seems to be revving when I depress the clutch to change gears, like up to 4000 rpm's. If I leave the clutch in for a few seconds it will begin to decrease. But if I shift right into gear as I have done for the last 35 years of driving, it is not smooth, jerky. This seems to happen mostly going into 2,3, and 4th gear, always going up. It never happens when downshifting. I tried tapping the brakes when shifting up, and sometimes it does seems to drop the rpm's. What it might be. It probably is related to the work that was done, but I don't really trust the dealer and want to have a little info going in.
View 1 RepliesAfter the car has been sitting for a while (say about 8 hours or so) I will turn the car on and I will always wait about 30 seconds or so before moving off just to let the oil start moving around. If I go to take off the engine shudders and sounds like its about to stall and the engine revs drop to almost around 300-400 revs then suddenly come back up.
Now I drive a manual car and I know there will be people there that will say I obviously cant use the clutch very well. This happens from anywhere from a flat to a decent incline in rain or sunshine, night and day, and all different external temperatures.
But that isn't all, the kicker is if I give the throttle a quick jab to bring the revs to around 1200-1500 revs, go to take off and the car is fine. ONLY happens once after sitting around for a while, basically after the engine has a good time to cool off to completely cold. Little side note, this has been getting more frequent over the last 3 months.
Just got the 2012 Prius in June and have put around 12,500 miles on it. I have loved the car so much but last Wednesday night I came out of work and the car would not start. Thinking maybe it was just the 12v battery I called Toyota care. After attempting to have it jumped it still would not start. It was towed to the dealership located in Carlstadt, NJ. It has been over a week now and they still have not been able to fix it! They say they have run a diagnostic test on it and nothing comes back fine but they still can’t get it on. They say they are now testing each wire individually.
View 6 RepliesI have no codes on screens, engine revs and gas mileage has gone down to 30 mpg from 40s this summer. The toyota service adviser said the poor gas mileage was from running the heater since it is around 20 degrees these days in minnesota. My innova scanner shows no DTC's. But my question is do I need a scanguage II or other scanner to get the battery codes? Am I missing them using the innova scanner? What scanners are available for 2001 prius.
View 5 RepliesI've noticed when encountering a moderate hill at 60 mph in cruise the revs might suddenly increase from 2200 to 2700 rpm, then back down slowly as I crest the hill. If I'm in manual mode it stays in 6th gear, but almost feels like a downshift. I also feel no accelerator pedal movement. Is this a two stage intake at work?
View 3 RepliesThe spring (or let's call it a few warmer days) has finally came to Ireland and my sensitive ear started to notice rather quiet clicking noise from the engine. The noise gets faster (you'd get more clicks pers second) when the engine revs up.
It is not very obvious, the two mechanics I asked told me that they can't hear anything and instructed me to enjoy the sun - but I definitely can notice when the ICE starts or shuts down just by presence of this clicking noise.
What's strange, when it has been raining for some time I don't hear it anymore, the engine runs very smooth and quiet. It will keep quiet in the roofed parking garage too - so it is not the rain just masking the sound.
It does not matter if the ICE is hot or cold too. I removed the serpentine belt and have run the engines for a moment without water pomp - but the sound is still there... The oil and filter has been recently changed too.
Apart from that the car runs fine. I get slightly below the typical fuel economy (5.9l/100km = 40mpg(us)) but I think it is still OK: I run only short distances (5-10 miles tops) and decided to ignore the pulse'n'glide technique as it kept my focus off the road.
I have a 2001 toyota prius. When I start the car and press on the gas pedal the engine rev's but nothing moves and there is some clatter from the engine. I can put it in B mode and drive it a short distance, but that's it.... The engine light has been coming off and on for a week now. It makes a loud audible tone and then I turn it off and back on and then it stops.
View 5 RepliesI'm having a bit of a problem with my 09 Prius. I've got 120K miles on it, and I have multiple codes on the hybrid battery. I don't know exactly which codes they are, I will see if they are on the paperwork that I have and post them if I can find them. Either way, the battery will be replaced.
But it's the problems I'm having in the meantime that have me concerned. While I am driving, and seemingly under any condition, my engine will suddenly start to race with no effect on acceleration. In fact, when it has happened on the interstate, the car will decelerate. When I pull the car off the side of the road and power cycle the car, it temporarily clears up the problem. The frequency of this occurrence is increasing. The first time I experienced the problem, last week, it happened twice during a 3 hour drive. 2 days ago it occurred 12 times during another 3 hour drive.
I own a 2009 Prius (4 years and 4 months old) with about 33K miles on it. Last Sunday while driving the Check Engine Light (CEL) suddenly came on. I made it home and started digging for possible causes - everything from a loose gas cap to a failure in the water pump for the inverter to a 12V battery nearing the end of its life. I've eliminated the water pump for the inverter as the source of the problem since, when I put the Prius into "Ready" mode, I can see movement in the fluid reservoir (when the gas engine is not on) indicating that the pump is working (it had also been replaced under a recall on that water pump a couple of years ago).
I'm down to a loose gas cap (which I checked and tightened) or the 12V battery as possible problems. I've tightened the gas cap but the CEL won't go off and I'm about to replace the 12V battery. Will that clear the CEL? I'm going to take it to a mechanic on Friday morning (my first opportunity - until then it's sitting in the garage) to get a code readout. Could this be something more serious? I mean the car is under 5 years old and has only 33K miles on it! What else could be causing the CEL to light up?
I don't have a Prius with a built-in bluetooth function, so I purchased the Blackberry Bluetooth Stereo Gateway that gives me audio just by plugging in my 3.5mm jack.
Unfortunately, when the car's engine revs up, I get a very high-pitched audio interference noise. This does not happen when I am connected directly into my phone.
Today, on the way to the Lego User Meeting in Virginia driving at 65 mph in the morning on 495 - the oil change access door of my 2010 Prius III engine cover/ splash shield ( part 51410-12101) popped off - it made a popping noise when it broke. Couldn't stop because I was in the middle of a superhighway. It was half way off when I got to the meeting in VA. The Prius is so low - the shield was impossible to reach without a lift. On my way back home to Maryland, the oil change access door fell off completely albeit I didn't see or hear it fall off. My 3 year warranty is up and I have +38000 miles on the odometer so I'm pass the TSB 0032-11 coverage now. I've raised my car on Monday _ nothing else is damage - san a missing oil change access door.
View 19 Replies2008 Prius. I just passed by 5K oil change by a 50 miles or so, so my maintenance light was on, but when I was driving it on the expressway today suddenly the red triangle light and check engine light came on, I immediately pulled over onto the shoulder and had it towed. These are the error codes that were showing up:
View 1 RepliesI don't like the way my transmission switches gears, is it possible to make the car change gears with 0.5 revs more then what it is right now... I feel like Hyundai only considered gas mileage for this car and didn't even think about the stress on transmission and engine...
I want the car to switch gears on higher revs then it is right now..
2012 Accent GS hatchback... Automatic transmission
I have a Toyota Prius (2010), and the car has run for about 2800000 kilometers. One day when a was driving my Prius the engine light suddenly get on. So I went to a car car mechanic, he checked the car and told me there was an error code (error code: P0401, exhaust problem (exhaust recirculation flow).
So I bought a liquid that I put in the gas tank, the liquid would clean the exhaust pipe, but the engine light was still on. The engine light is usually on at least 2 weeks, then disappear for about 2 days and come back in two weeks…The car is driving normally without any problems.
Suddenly today, I get a "Check Engine" light while driving. Scangauge II says it's a P1430 error. I found two different suggestions, but where these are located on the car.
P1430-Electric Air Pump secondary Failure
P1430 -Vacuum Sensor for Adsorber and Catalyst System Circuit Malfunction
While my car was idling in a CVS parking lot, the VCS, Red Exclamation in a triangle, Yellow Exclamation in a circle and the check engine lights all suddenly turned on.
In reading the forums, it seems the two most likely issues would either be the inverter pump (which I had replaced as part of the recall, and I see the fluid moving in the reservoir), or possibly a bad 12v battery (which I had replaced last year with the forum recommended Optima Yellow Top).
I checked for error codes, and there were numerous ones there at first, but I think that might have been related to the old 12v battery dying (I never reset after that). I cleared the codes, and no new codes are generating.
-Thought I'd post a quick update on the reliability of my 2012 TDi SEL:
A few weeks ago I noticed the cranking speed had started to slow and then suddenly one day, after driving the car for an hour, it refused to start. AAA jumped it and it of course started great. Did some testing to isolate the issue to the battery and I finally took the car to the dealer who confirmed that the battery was bad and replaced it for around 200 bucks including labor.
The car reached 60000 miles around the same time.
After the battery was replaced, the car is back to its normal self and all is well now.
Edit:I should add that I am not *really* disappointed in the somewhat short lifespan of the battery. I live in a hot area (SoCal) and this is not the first car I've owned where the battery only lasted 3-ish years.
2012 Accent Hatchback. ~57k miles. (not yet done the 60k mile service)
So at about 1.4-1.7K rpm I hear a slight squeal and the engine's rpm suddenly jumps down for a second, and you can feel the car shake, then comes back up.
I was able to see it while idling, where the engine simply shook a little, like it's stuttering/sputtering and about to stall, but then immediately recovers and continues to idle normally until it happens again (not very often when in idle, usually more often when getting out of idle and slightly depressing the accelerator)
If I press the accelerator more or harder then I don't get any of it. I'm coming up the 60k mile service, and the schedule recommends inspecting and replacing the belt.
I am wondering if the belt slips on the alternator would you be getting similar symptoms or should I be looking elsewhere? I don't think this matters, but I'll mention it anyways, I'm about 1K miles overdue on an oil change. But I don't think 1k is that big of a deal.
Owner of a 2013 Camry, So about a year and 3 months ago my radio killed itself. I had installed front door speakers and I guess they over drove the radio's amp and it fried itself. Saw the whole works, smoke, static from speakers etc. Well in Feb of 2015 I got another radio off a junker Camry and installed my factory speakers back in and it was working wonderfully... until now.
Yesterday after work I was driving home and suddenly the audio cuts out, usually i thought it was my Galaxy Note 4 because it has issues with Bluetooth but that wasn't the case this time. No sources would play audio. The radio turns on and everything. It accepts Bluetooth connections and plays CD's but there is no audio coming out. I checked all the speakers and none of them are touching metal.