I've bought a brand new 2012 Prius C 3.
This morning I was trying to back out of a parking spot and put it on a reverse after starting my car. As soon as I my car started moving forward and hit the curb right in front of the car. I couldn't believe my eyes so I put the gear back to Parking and back to reverse, and as soon as I touched gas, it again accelerated forward.
Ok, did an intake manifold cleaning on my 99 Accord the other day, and now I have problems...
Long story short, some time ago my car started to have a very rough idle. Took me awhile to find the problem. Turned out the air hose, between the filter and throttle body, had developed a big hole on the underside. So I replaced it and while I was at it used some throttle body cleaner, spraying into the intake manifold chamber. Lot of junk blew out the tailpipe. The car ran much better, but the idle could still be a little rough. I ran it that way for awhile, and finally the other day decided there was probably still some junk in there and it was time to really clean it out. So I took ff the throttle body and intake manifold housing. There was a lot of junk in there! The small intake on the passenger side was completely clogged shut. (I understand this isn't surprising on these cars.) I used a bunch of rags and 2 cans of Valvoline throttle body cleaner and a lot of elbow grease and cleaned it out. I was thinking to myself that whatever I didn't get with the rags flushed through OK, but I didn't want to take the whole intake manifold out.
So I put it all back together. (I took a video before I started, so I'm pretty sure it's all back together right.) But now I have problems. The car starts. It idles fine mostly, but can be a bit rough. But the trouble starts when I put the pedal down. If I do it in Park, well, if I push it quick the engine just dies. If I push it slow, the engine revs then quits, revs and quits, over and over. Similar if it's in gear. If I push it hard, the engine stalls. If I push it gentle, it revs up, but chugs along a bit.
I've run some seafoam through it, thinking it was clogged up with all that junk, and sure enough, lots of smoke comes out, but nothing is improving so far. What have I done wrong?
I was wondering if this problem is the "Barking" noise that keeps coming up the search or is it another problem. I will include a link to the video down below.
To start off, the Prius is 2010 Prius II and has 120k miles on it. Great Car. Only other problem was AC compressor dying at 90k.
The chirping noise happens when the brake pedal is pressed and does not go away until the release the pedal. It makes the noise regardless of whether the car is on or off.
It makes the noise when the car is stopped and or when the mechanical brake engage at between 0 and 6 mph.
Noise does not occur when the brake switch is removed. Not valid solution since the brake lights will stay on. It does not affect the performance of braking.
Here is the link to the video .... .... ....
Today I faced another problem i just try to start my car but, due the dead 12v battery it didn't start so i pressed the BRAKE PEDAL until it reach the bottom, again i tried to press but its not going to the bottom why was that, is it due to dead battery? And last time i called an automobile expertise to jump start my car. They check the voltage with a digital multi-meter and he said me if you jump start even you will get this problem again until u replace the new battery. but i said him it doesn't matter do a jump start and finally it was ok . Now again I faced the same problem and this time i am going to change the battery.
View 1 RepliesI purchased a 2001 Prius with 123K miles about two weeks ago. I knew the HV battery was shot when i purchased it. I decided to see if I could rebuild the HV battery on my own.
I'm very mechanical but not the brightest bulb in the room when it comes to batteries and anything electrical.
So here is where I'm at so far:
- I removed the HV battery.
- safely rested it on 2 horses (I used horses because it would give me easy access to the bottom to remove the bottom screws)
- Removed all 38 modules from the battery pack
- cleaned the busses in vinegar
- inspected each wire that connects between buss and the nut.
- tested each battery ( one of the batteries tested at -0.1, the others tested at 6.8)
- I don't know how to load test the modules, so I couldn't tell if they would drop dramatically under load, so I ordered 38 used replacement batteries off of Ebay. (Gen II)
- these replacement modules were about a half inch longer than my original modules.
- The replacement modules arrived. I cleaned the terminals, tested each one and installed them.
- Connected the battery back into the prius.
- Installed new 12V battery from the Toyota dealer.
- The Prius started right up.
- Drove it around for the first time for about 10 minutes.
- When i was driving it, the monitor in the Prius would show the engine running most of the time but sometimes it would show it charging the HV and other times charging the 12V. the engine would shut off at stop lights and resume when I pressed on the gas pedal.
- while driving back into my driveway, all of the warning lights came on and the battery fan kicked into high gear,
- I can't remember the code I pulled but it was in reference to the cells being out of balance I think. I'll have to check it again tonight when I get home.
- I removed the HV and tightened the nuts around the busses hoping the issue would be resolved.
- I was able to drive it only a few minutes before the issue returned.
other issues I noticed.
While waiting for the replacement batteries to arrive, I did the following:
- changed the cabin filter
- did an oil change.
- changed the tranny fluid and removed the tranny pan to clean out the slime and clean off the magnet.)
- changed the rear brake shoes.
- changed the front brake rotors and pads. ( they were in awful condition due to sitting so long)
***when I pressed on the brakes, only the rear brakes seem to engage, not the front. I never attempted to bleed them because I know only the dealer can do that)
Its a 2005 model with 45000 miles on the clock, so low mileage for the year. The problem with it is the engine starts up ready fr a journey, and as soon as the accelerator pedal is pressed, the engine cuts out.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2010 Prius and have been driving several for the past 7 years.Yesterday, I was driving on the Expressway at 60 mph and all of a sudden I was momentarily stuck at 60 as if I was in Cruise control which I wasn't. Gradually, I was unable to accelerate when I pressed down on the pedal, lost speed and cruised over to the side of the road as if I was out of gas which I wasn't. I shut the engine off, waited a minute and started up again. I continued on my journey without a problem. When I reached my destination I shut down the engine and re started 4 hrs later and drove home 120 miles without a problem. What is the cause of this and is it still under warranty. I have 50,000 miles on the vehicle. May I add, this is the first problem ever encountered.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2001 toyota prius. When I start the car and press on the gas pedal the engine rev's but nothing moves and there is some clatter from the engine. I can put it in B mode and drive it a short distance, but that's it.... The engine light has been coming off and on for a week now. It makes a loud audible tone and then I turn it off and back on and then it stops.
View 5 RepliesWe have a new 2015 Prius with 6k on it and we are noticing one solid brief single click when the brake pedal is pressed and/or released. It doesn't happen every time (just some of the time) but it is only noticeable at slow speeds.
View 19 RepliesOur Prius is only a year old with less than 9,000 miles. Everything has been fine with it and then yesterday I took it out of the garage and started to drive and there was the most horrendous grinding/squealing/scraping noise as I started moving from the front passenger side (UK passenger, so left looking out).
I stopped the car and had a look, as at first I thought I was dragging something, but nothing to be seen. Checked the parking brake was definitely not engaged. I then thought perhaps something is caught in the brake pads and it will go in a bit, however even hard braking didn't seem to change the noise at all.
Carried on (I was going about 7 miles), and as I drove it would gradually get quieter, and then get louder again, with the occasional "clang" sound almost like a spring under tension suddenly moving.
Towards the end of the journey it had started to go quieter again, but with the window down you could still hear constant squeal/grind.
Parked the car, was away for an hour, came back and set off home and the noise was totally gone. Entirely silent all the way back home! Now I don't know what to do - whether it will come back, or whether I should take it in to garage for them to look (even though it's now not making any noise).
While pressing the brake, the green light never comes on. The car is less than two weeks old and this is happening.
View 19 Replies If the remote AC button is pressed in middle of winter does it turn on the heat and if yes, does it stay on long enough to actually get some heat going.
For example, if I press it while car is in the garage and it turns on (auto temp set to 70 when it's maybe only 25 in garage), if I go out in 5 or 10 minutes will it have actually heated things up a little? Hope so because that would be better than going into garage, starting it up and going back inside.
I just installed new coils, front and rear control arm bushings, and ball joints. I had some noise before the install, but after it was all good and quiet. Now, I have a clunk during braking hard, and I've noticed a clunk upon moving forward. In my mind I would think the mounts are going bad. 140k, and i'm not sure if they've been replaced before. I do know the dog bone has an insert.
View 6 RepliesI purchased a 2009 Hyundai Accent Automatic with less than 50000 Miles. I recently had to replace spark plug connector due to rats. Now, having issues with getting it to drive in the mornings. Description;I let the car warm up about 2 minutes before putting it in drive. Once I let my foot off of the brake the car begins to jolt forward and won't stop until I put my foot back on the brake. Even while holding the brake the car jolts but won't go forward. I have to put the car back in Park before it will stop. This goes on for about 15 to 20 minutes. Then, as if there were never any problems, the car drives as it is supposed to. *I have turned the car off and restarted but the car still jolts forward until it decides not to.I have checked the transmission fluid and it doesn't appear dirty but maybe low. Would low transmission fluid level cause this type of behavior? I am on a budget and a huge transmission bill is not really something I can afford right now. But I need to be able to get to work everyday. I can't imagine that the transmission is going up when the car has less than 50000 miles on it. I've had it since the middle of January.
View 4 RepliesI noticed since day one that my 2014 PiP radio is more static than my 2006 Prius. I also noticed that when I started moving in ev only, the radio volume level would drop. Well, I never really thought about it why till I got LED headlights. Now, the static is worst due to RF interference from the LED. So, it looks like there were more interference due to the ev electrical system. With the LED headlight, it made it worst. I have put a choke on the leads of the headlight, but it does nothing.
View 12 RepliesMy Santa Fe has roughly 120,000 miles on it (v6, fancy version with the sun roof). Today, I got in to go to a meeting. Noticed the car was shimmying and having trouble moving forward. Then noticed my check engine light was on. Managed to drive 5 miles to the meeting, and an hour later, the light and the shimmying were gone. What's going on? (Or even wildly speculative guesses?) ...
View 1 Repliesi am wondering if any other touareg v-10 owners have experienced what i call "slop in the drivetrain"?symptoms: when just crawling off from a dead stop and then letting off of the pedal i can both hear and feel a little clunk whether forward or reverse. its real subtle but its always there if you listen for it. Is this just what they call normal "slash" of the worm gears in the differentials? i would hate to find out later once warranty's gone that i should have done something about it earlier? i have 19,000 miles on it, 70%highway and 30% city driving.
View 5 RepliesYesterday I reversed my 1996 Subaru Outback (manual transmission) out of a perpendicular parking place on a hill, swung around forward and coasted down the hill. Near the bottom, I let out the clutch out without realizing I was still in reverse gear. It made a not-so-awful noise (sounding rather like engine braking) and I very quickly put it in neutral. I immediately smelled a fairly strong gasoline/exhaust aroma and the engine stalled.
The Subaru restarted without trouble, but the check engine light was on. Everything appears to function normally now, and I've reset the engine light by disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery for a few minutes.
Have I likely damaged anything? Is there anything I should check? Should I have tried to read the diagnostic code?
I think this is dangerous. Several times I've stopped and hit the turn off button and had the car creep forward when I actually didn't shut off the engine. I had taken my old 07 Prius to the dealer to see if they could fix this and they said they couldn't.
View 19 RepliesSo It's been a while since I've noticed this wearing rusty sound when moving the driver seat forward and back. It only happens at a certain point where I feel most of my family members are positioned when driving.... I took a look it seemed a bit rusted... Will post pics later.
View 3 RepliesOK, this is the second time I noticed this. I'm at a stop light, looking around, suddenly, I notice I am slightly moving forward. Is my foot (on the brake) just too relaxed, or what? I have never experienced this before in any vehicle.
View 14 Replies