Prius C :: 2012 - Can Monitor Transmission Fluid Temp With Scan Gauge
May 4, 2014
I have 2012 Prius C, I want to monitor my transmission fluid temp with my scan gauge II. I watch the MG1 and MG2 temps, which can get very high, like 215 F. I hope this isn't the trans fluid temp as well.
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I have googled for this and searched the typical sites but cannot find the PID to monitor the MAF with my scan gauge II. Am I blind or does it even exist?
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Okay, I was driving down the freeway and suddenly my temperature gauge zoomed to Hot and steam rose out of the car. I stopped the car and let it cool down, then drove the 5 miles very slowly to the mechanic-stopping twice to let it cool completely.
I got it to the mechanic and a huge crack appeared across the top of the radiator when the car was on. New radiator time-gotcha. She has 235K miles on her and before this ran like she was brand new.
Now not a couple days later, I started noticing that transmission fluid was leaking about 1/2 cup of fluid a day dripping down from the axle. Can I use a stop leak for transmissions/transaxle? Would it fix the issue temporarily...
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Can I read oil pressure on my scan gauge II ? If so, how do I do it?
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My scan gauge has begun to go blank every minute or so. Any fix?
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Scan gauge II keep going blank !
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I have a 2012 Crew cab Silverado 5.3 V8 with the towing package. When I pull my travel trailer (approx. 5000 lbs), the water temp stays 1/2 guage and the tranny temp is 170-190, however, on steep hills the water temp guage goes 2/3 to 3/4 guage for a short time and the tranny temp reaches 200-210 degrees. Is the elevated water and tranny temps okay or should I try to reduce them back to the normal range. What is the max temp I should keep the tranny at?
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I could have sworn that I read somewhere on here how you can use the Scan Gauge II to change the reverse beep, but like they always say I cant find it now.
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02 6.8 4x4 excursion. When I start the truck cold, the trans temp gauge immediately moves to "running" temp. Not really sure how this happens, I'd figure that if the xducer was trash it would ride all the way high or all the way low. What's happening here? I'd sure like a functional gauge...
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I am about 50 miles from El Paso and 350-400 from home, broken down on hwy right now, all the dash lights lit up and my scan gauge says p0a93 the inverter pump thing. Nothing has been worked on or messed with so i should have no air in the lines etc
Can I drive it like this to El Paso or home? Car seems to be running fine. Car is under toyota warranty so i don't want to screw anything else up.
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Purchased a used 2005 Prius with 30,000 on the clock. Have put 5,000 miles on the car with no problems. Recently the check engine light came on and my Scan Gauge indicated a trouble code of "P0000". Cleared the code and four days and 500 miles later the check engine light returned with the same code. Car runs great even with the light on. Have check the fuel cap which was and is tight.
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I have a 2007 Camry with the 4 cylinder engine and about 90,000 miles. I just changed the oil and took it for a test drive only to notice about 1/4 mile down the road it was running very hot. My a/c began to get warmer and my temperature gauge was at the "H". I pulled over and it immediately cooled back to normal operating temperature (in the middle of the gauge). The car was left running this entire time and I began my way back to my destination. It never ran that hot again but when I would slow down to an idle I noticed at times it would go up in temperature, but not as hot as before, and go back to normal temperatures. Sometimes during a drive it would fluctuate a little bit, but nothing as much as it would on the very start of running this car cold.
So I opened my hood and looked at the reservoir and noticed I do not see any fluid in there. I guess I should add that I have never flushed or changed the antifreeze b/c I did not know I would need to change it until recently at the 5 year mark. I also notice a little but a pink crystals (about the size of a pencil head) on a bolt at the top left of the engine, right under were the oil cap is. But that is all I noticed. No leak in my driveway or other areas of the engine. I must note that I did the oil change myself and it was nice and black, so from my experience it does not appear to be a head gasket, b/c I would assume it would be milky in color if that was the case.
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I rebuilt the engine on my toyota celica. After putting everything back together there are a few bizarre symptoms I am hoping to get sorted out.
1) It only starts with starting fluid, but once it starts it will run continuously without dying.
2) The temperature gauge goes up relatively quickly, and also moves with the throttle. For example if it is as the 1/3 level and I apply throttle it will bump up. It continues to jump along with throttle play.
3) When I remove the coolant sender and/or sensor plugs, the gauge still reads the same (is this normal).
4) The fans don't turn on unless I remove the sender cable (the one with one wire and not two)
If I understand correctly the sensor with one wire is the sender and the sensor with two wires is the temp sensor. I am having a hell of a time determining the difference. The one with a single wire contact is plugged into the thermostate cover/pipe. The one with two wires is in the thermostat housing.
Did I fry the ECU somehow? What is going on?
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Recently I changed the 12 volt battery of my Prius 2012. Now the Energy Monitor arrows are missing. When the car is moving there is not arrows displaying. The only thing that appears is the battery charging, I can see when is low and full, but that's it. How can I turn on the animation?
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My son recently bought a 2012 GLS. The temp gauge was fluctuating and I noticed the overflow was really low. I added coolant and warmed the car up with no change. After it cooled a little, I cracked the radiator cap and heard bubbling air. Upon complete removal of the cap, I saw no fluid, however, the cap is above the radiator where the hoses connect. I added coolant directly to this opening until I could see it. Closed everything up and warmed up the car. Temp gauge is now steady 1 mark below half way. The question is, did I add enough coolant? and should I see coolant inside the radiator cap when the vehicle is cold?
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I have a 2011 Sonata with 30000 miles. It started shifting funny. It would jump when you put it in drive and shift strangely in all gears. Called the dealer to make an appointment, cancelled as I couldn't get off work. In the meantime, car stopped doing this.
After a while, this started again. Stopped by a shop that offered free code check, the code is P0711 Transmission Fluid Temp Sensor. They said your fluid is overheating and we don't know why, we have to take the transmission off to find out the cause.
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I am going to install an aftermarket gauge on my Excursion. Just would like to know the best place to install the probe. Hopefully it isn't that hard.
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I have a 2002 F-350 6.8L, 4x4, crew cab, 8' bed, SRW, trailer tow pkg. I purchased it new in the fall of 2001. The truck currently has 54,000 miles on it (only gets used when I need to tow/haul something). It's kept in the garage and is in near showroom condition.
Everything on the vehicle is 100% functional except the transmission temperature gauge. Even when the truck sits for weeks, the needle will move to mid scale as soon as the key is switched on - haven't even started the engine yet! Put the scanner on it - no codes stored.
I'm attempting to trouble-shoot the TFT (transmission fluid temperature) sensor. Found some documentation online on the 4R100 transmission. It shows an electrical connector on the solenoid body with pins for the thermistor (so I can measure its resistance). However, I can't find a connector anywhere on my transmission that even remotely resembles the diagram I found online.
Question 1: When you first get in your vehicle and turn the key, does your tranny temp gauge read "cold" just like the engine temp gauge?
Question2: Does my truck have the 4R100 transmission? How can I verify that?
Question3: Looking for documentation on what connector and which pins are for the thermistor?
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My ScanGauge just went blank, which was nuisance because I like to monitor it in the mountain climbs. It felt like a 'naked' dash without it. My separate pyrometer was the only additional info I had. The ScanGauge only has a few thousand miles on it. Wondering how reliable these things are before considering getting another, or inquiring about a fix I know I will first have to double check that the OBII port is still OK, but I expect it is.
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I have an 02 F250 V10. Ive always wondered about the transmission gauge. It seems to always point to the middle of the gauge range. This weekend I was pulling my car hauler up and over the Ozark mountains, and when I stopped for fuel I noticed the transmission was vomiting fluid underneath the truck (and on my exhaust creating a nice smoke bomb for everyone around me). The gauge indicated normal temps. It kind of gave me a sick feeling. I have ordered the 6.0 Trans cooler from Rock Auto and a new temperature sending unit. Do the trans temp gauge is supposed to move or is it pretty much useless?
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I'm trying to chase down a couple of issues and I need to be able to monitor the coolant (and oil) temps. I've downloaded the manual and the specific 6.0 X Gauge commands but don't see the coolant temps listed.
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