Prius 2016 (Gen 4) :: Using AC / Heat While Parked For Extended Periods
Jun 7, 2016
I've read other posts where owners report using previous gen for camping trips and leave the car on all night for AC/Heat. I have a similar but much shorter timed use case. When my wife is in shopping, I use my car as an office with laptop and phone going, and usually just bear the very hot days while parked for an hour, sometimes two. Would the 2016 Prius provide the opportunity to keep the car on in this way, and is there any detriment to its motors or electronics when keeping it on like this for extended periods of time.
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Is it common for the batteries to die if the car sits for extended periods? I just got this car and was told they disconnected the radio to keep from killing the battery. This car belonged to a school that drove it maybe once a month. I put a new battery in 2 months ago but just replaced the fuel pump yesterday and drove it home. However the battery had died sitting for the last 2 months and needed to be charged. I want to re-connect the radio. I took this car on a trade for some work I did and plan to re-sell it.
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I have noticed that my car makes a hot rubber smell when under periods of extended boost. I live in CO and there are sections of road where, just to maintain highway speeds, my car will hit and hold 5psi as I motor up a mtn pass or very long/big hill...that could be a few miles with periods where it might just drop to 0 for a minute or two depending on traffic or a spot where things level out for a sec. (Downshifting doesn't really change this, only the rpm range...the hill/load stays constant)
Anyways, I don't notice this any other time. No visible oil leaks. The catch can is emptied. No smoke from engine or tailpipe. So I am fairly certain this is rubber I am smelling.
I am wondering if perhaps it's just the turbo getting hot enough to make the stock boost hose smell? It seems obvious to me that it is directly related to turbo heat. All searches I have done lead me to crayon smells or burnt oil...this is neither. Car runs fantastic otherwise, but this smell just sucks.
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I have a 1995 Lexus ES300 with 130,000 miles. This car is basically a rebadged Camry of the same vintage. Occasionally, when the car sits for extended periods (overnight or while I'm at work) and I try to start it, I get nothing. Not a click--nothing. This will never happen if I pop into a grocery store or other errands that are an hour or less.I've tried jiggling the floor shifter to see if it was the neutral safety switch and no luck. I've also tried putting the car in neutral with no results. I can also move the steering wheel rapidly left-right and push hard down onto the brake pedal with no obvious results. Eventually after 10 tries or so the starter motor will engage and it just starts. Could it be the ignition (where I put the key in)?
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I have a friend with a 2012 F250. The truck has 100K miles and it does idle for extended periods. The other day his check engine light comes on so he took it the shop. They had not told him anything yet, but they did tell him that he had about a gallon to much oil. They said it was fuel.
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If I leave my 2013 RX parked for longer periods (5-14 days) w/o starting it does not want to recognize my key for starting oftentimes. I end up having to remove from my pocket and hold it up to the ignition button so it recognizes and then it will start.
I have had the battery checked in the remote and it is fine. The dealer tells me this can happen as the vehicle battery can run down in that amount of time since there are electronics within the vehicle still functioning that will draw from the battery.
I have no problem if I drive the vehicle every day or even every 2-3 days. Vehicle only has about 6,000 miles on it.
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I have had the red triangle after having the car parked in extreme rain/heat pop up when I start the vehicle 3 times in about 6 months. The first 3 times I did not have Techstream so I just cleared the codes, but the third time I finally read it and had those 3 codes, the first two I assume being most important. I clear the codes each time I see them and they stay off 1-2 months. About 140k miles on car. New 12V battery. No driveability issues. Car still gets decent 60 mpg in summer, 50 in winter. P3000 P3009 B2799
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I am having issues with my air conditioning on the 05 prius. For some reason when I leave to go somewhere its fine, but if I stop for long periods of the time the a/c stops cooling, the fan is still blowing. Once i take off it cools somewhat better but still not cold as it should be.
I have already had the car checked for DTCs and there are none, plus I had the a/c vacuumed down and recharged to factory specs, it still has the same problem.
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I noticed yesterday after using my drivers side rear door that i really have to force the door shut to have it latch properly. It has always needed a little more force than usual to shut but not I never had to grip the side of the door and force it like I'm gonna punch the side of the truck. After its latched the top is solid and doesn't budge but the bottom seems to be able to move a little if i grab it and try and wiggle it.
I am not sure if it is misaligned or what but its driving me crazy, is there something I should look for in particular? The passenger side shuts like an average door and doesn't really require a lot of force to shut but the drivers side has been like that since the day my dad picked it up new except now its really bad. I tried the search function but I could only find threads about door stuck shut not doors that wont shut.
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I have a 2010 Prius that I've owned for a little over 2 years. I know basically nothing about auto mechanics. When i purchased the Prius, I was told by the salesperson to use engine braking "B" as often as possible to extend the life of my brakes.
Although I don't live in a mountaineous region, I have found engine braking to be useful in the snow, in the occassional steep hill i come across, and also in my daily commute where travel is at 55 MPH with a stop light every half mile or so.
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1999 F250 extended cab back doors won't open. The passenger side stopped opening right after I purchased it a few months back (168K miles). I removed the door panels and reached my hand in feeling around. I know the latch releases are activated by cables but cannot figure out how they work. While feeling and pulling on the cables one became dislodged from its holder. The driver's side stopped opening yesterday . Do the cables stretch, break, or what? Or are the holders the issue? Is there an illustration that shows how the cables are run and connected?
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Tonight I needed to stop at a red light. The distance to the light was on the short side, so I braked somewhat firmly - but not hard like a panic stop. The road was dry but somewhat bumpy (I think it had some patches across it from some digging that'd been going on.) But it wasn't so bumpy that you wouldn't just drive normally on it. When I braked, the car kept on going. I saw the traction control light come on, and eventually the car stopped at the light. But if there'd been another car ahead of me, this might not have ended well.
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My brothers truck has unusual problem of when parked the horn randomly comes on and stays on? Why?
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Bulbs, wiring and fuses are fine. Backup lights sometimes work for short periods of time if you jiggle the socket on top of the PNP switch. Tried spraying the sockets with wd 40 but did not work. know if cleaning the PNP will resolve this?
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I'm trying to think of what gets affected on a vehicle which is driven about 20 to 25k miles a year. I'm looking to purchase one with the following description.
2006, 4.7L V8 is bulletproof, but with 165k miles already, what should I look for when inspecting the vehicle?
It's been dealer serviced. Is there anything other than normal wear and tear items that might be negatively impacted by doing so many road trips (lets say 300 miles at a time) That would be around 550 trips of 300 miles in 6 years.
The reason I ask this rather than just looking at the truck is because I'm in Dallas and the truck is at a Houston dealer... So before I drive out there, I wanted to "assume" what affect this kind of usage would do to an engine.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe Limited and recently the main AC blower has been cutting on and off for long periods of time. The rear blower has not had any issues and has always worked. The main blower cuts off randomly and stays off until I tap under the glove box and then it normally kicks back on. Recently that has stopped working and I need to figure out what the problem is. Having the AC on or off does not effect this issue.
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I have a 2001 Ford Escape XLT V6 4X4. About 3 months ago I started to experience rough idle in the morning. It went a away for a month or so, but it is back now. I noticed that it occurs primarily after the vehicle has sat for long periods of time. More than 10 hours, give or take, and it happens, less than 10 and it generally doesn't. When the issue does occur it sometimes almost stalls. I can tell the computer attempts to make up for it usually. The check engine light came on originally but hasn't since, a mechanic could not pull any code and could not reproduce. The issue disappears within 3 to 5 minutes usually after everything seems to warm up. I'm had regular maintenance and I am an 75k. I've even tried using gas additives and tried a high grade of gasoline to no avail.
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My Toyota Corolla, 2006 keeps dying after long periods of sitting. Coincidentally (?) the issue has only occurred on weekends, after my 8-hour afternoon work shift. The first 2 occasions it made a quick clicking sound when I tried to start it (6 and 5 weeks ago, respectively). I replaced the battery; it was old. Then, the same issue happened two weeks ago. I had the battery checked at the site of purchase, where they also checked the alternator. Both reps advised me the parts showed up good on their meters. It died again the next day. So, I had a mechanic check every fuse and relay in the car to look for a draw on the battery using an amp meter. Readings indicated no significant drop in current draining from the battery while any were unplugged. . . I don't use a remote control unlock button (one professional seemed to think this might be relevant), and I have checked to make sure no lights were left on, even in the trunk. (Also note - I have seen no drop in performance when driving vehicle, nor any change in air conditioning or light brightness). I'm lost where to take it from here.
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2005 Prius w/90,000 miles.
This morning I got in my Prius and started the car. I was waiting for my son and almost absentmindedly I put my foot on the gas enough to get the ICE revving up. The car was parked with a very slight incline forward (a few degrees at most). After a few seconds the car thumped backwards. It then continued to do that continuously with a thump about once a second. It's not a hard thump, but it's very noticeable.
It is almost as if a very small amount of power is being applied in reverse and then released quickly. I shut the car down and was able to replicate the issue. There are no error codes on my OBD2 and no unusual engine lights. Is it normal?
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Normal to have a buzzing sound from the car while parked with the ac on? Its not terribly loud but can be heard inside the car with windows up.
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So, I went to a hotel tonight and gave my car (2010 Prius II) to the valet. When I came out about 4 hours later, a different valet guy said they had a problem with my car and that it had no power. But, somehow, they were able to drive in reverse and park it near the entrance. This must have happened shortly after I left the car with them.
The car would not start, but a dash light was blinking that looked like an outline of a padlock (it was blinking too quickly for me to tell). Also, strangely, the vents were blowing air (albeit, at a very low setting).
Someone with the hotel came out with a battery charger and we hooked it up to the terminal in the front engine. As soon as the battery was attached, everything in my car lit up and I was able to start it up.
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