Prius 2016 (Gen 4) :: 2016 - Shifter Knob Seems To Be Not Illuminated
Jan 26, 2016
Loving my 2016 on day one, When I picked the car up last night I noticed that the shifter was not illuminated either by a spotlight like on my wife's 2010, or internally. The knob is a pretty blue plastic that sure looks like it should be illuminated from the inside.
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I have a 2010 Prius no frills model with 5500 miles on it. I've started hearing a noise that sounds like loud burst of radio static. I hear it with the radio off or on. It's very intermittent, but seems to occur only at freeway speeds. Seems to be coming from underneath the shifter or underneath the dash in the same area.
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The only serious problem i can't quite figure out is how to attach the shifter "knob" to the stalk. I see how the stock knob is attached, but i will be using an aluminium rod so clamping wont be a great idea. I have thought of removing the stalk and drilling a set of holes through it and running bolts to hold them together, but it isn't that big of a diameter and also i don't like the though of one of those nuts coming loose and messing up my shifting. My nest idea was epoxy, but I still would like to remove it if perhaps one day i wanted to. So there's my dilemma.
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I have a 2015 is350 f sport. I don't know if this is normal, but my shift knob is very loose. I can literally take my thumb and pointer finger and turn it either way with almost any pressure. When I turn it, the leather seems to be attached, and turns with the shifter when I turn it to the right to tighten it.
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I have my GTi, a week ago I broke an axle. I was then convinced by friends the clutch went out. So I said screw it and bought a Southbend Stage 2 Daily. When I get it I go to install it, then find out I have a Broken half shaft. So after taking the tranny out to install the clutch anyways and everything goes alright for the most part. (250k miles so that's why I never returned new clutch)
SO I get everything together. Tires spins. Car goes all is good.
Clutch is super spongy as I need to bleed it. But my problem is the shifter knob is super sloppy. Feels like is a whole section lower. It's hard to engage second as I have to double tap it in with a good throw. Everything is right on the shift tower. And seems like it clicks right into all the gears. But the physical knob feels super sloppy and out of place. First, third and 5th are all super far up and seems like it double clicks after putting it into gear. Like if there was a gear above. Kinda weird to explain. I've done the home alignment on the tower and nob, but only have a bolt that was 4.71 mm. So the cables should be really close to being aligned right. But I can't grab second at high Rpms.
I also need to do my drain and fill. So would it be a drain and fill and clutch bleeding will fix my sloppy shifter? Before I did everything it was tight. Felt right.
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Ok. I replace my alternator on my 1995 Subaru Legacy Ls. Everything went great. Last thing I did was to connect the positive cable on the battery. When I did it sparked alittle. Well when I got into the car to start it nothing. Turn the key nothing. The knob on the shifter won't go in to get out of park. Neighbor checked my battery said it was fine. But nothing will come on. Nothing.No lights. I had problems with my ignition before. Do you think my ignition went out? Honestly don't know what to think. Some one told me that these cars have a secondary security system. If it goes on you cannot move the knob on the shifter and when you turn the key on nothing?
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The battery light is on on the dash. I checked both batteries with the ground wire removed, and they show 12.85 and 12.84 volts, they are clean and not in need of water. The battery light will go out after around 15 minutes on the highway, but not around town, and if I shut off the truck in town, the next start is at a very reduced amperage. Alternator packing it in?
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2004, cc/lb 6.0 ... I get in the truck and the dome lights come on, key the ignition and they stay on though they should go off, start truck and they still stay on until I reach 5 mph. Door ajar light is illuminated on the dash. If the truck is off and I open the drivers door, the domes will come on, they will not come on if I open the other three doors. I just replaced the switch on the drivers door and no change.
I held the trip button and started the engine. I kept tapping the button until "door 40" came up. When I opened the drivers door it would change from 40 to CO. When I opened the other doors, it would stay at 40.
I did notice that once I had the drivers door open and completely off the latch and my hands off the door handle, I would move the door and it would then change from 40 to CO. At this point the latch switch is out of the picture. So if i move the door slightly open/close it would switch from 40 to CO when the door is nearly closed. Is there another switch or sensor somewhere near the hinges?
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So we had a subzero weather week last week and on one of the below zero days by low tire pressure light goes on - on my dash. I've checked all 4 tires and they are not low. Do I have a bad sensor? Or is the cold causing this?
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Driving my new to me 2010 Super Duty this morning in the dark and noticed that the mirror controls are not illuminated. Is this normal or are they suppose to have illumination?
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Drove to work had no issues, went to leave & noticed that the dash lights didn't light as normal when I turned the key over, then tried to start but it just cranked, checked the fuses all good under the dash & hood.
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I tried searching and googling but came to no results, unless its like similar trucks. How do the 4x4 shift remove? I have an 04 F250 and someone decided to put the shift on sideways so the 4HI and etc read upside down before I purchased the truck. Do I just rip the thing off?
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I have a 2001 for f250 with the electronic shift on the fly and when I turn the switch to put it in 4hi or low nothing happens I don't hear a click and the lights don't come on but the 4wd light works it comes on when I first start the truck and I put different relays in that we're good and still nothing I tested the the relay box itself for power and there wasn't any.
I used the truck last year for plowing and it worked sometimes it wouldn't go In or come out but after a few tries it would end up working but I've tried everything I could think of I'm starting to think it's something electrical because the relay box isn't getting power to it but idk if a vacuum leak would do that or a bad transfer case motor or iwe solenoid or if it's something more like a broken wire some where.
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I've put about 500 miles on my new to me 06 F250 4x4, CC, SB, V-10. One thing that is slightly annoying is the shifter position in R, L, 1 and 2. Shifter is against my knee in those positions. Re bent the shifter to place the more to the right? I have buckets with a console so I don't need to worry about a center passenger's legs. I have plenty of benders and metal working tools at my disposal, just asking for some guidance.
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Should the indicator above reads "4x2, 4x4 hi, 4x4 low" light up when the driving lights (i.e. at night) switch is on?
If yes, how to change the light bulb?
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Today I put a new shifter tube in a 02 f450. Everything works well, but the key won't come out and the steering wheel won't lock. Was told there is a button to push by the turn signal side but don't see any. Looked around top and bottom of column and didn't see anything out of place. Also found a black wire with a pink strip not connected to anything. Touched the wire to the column and key dinger sounded. Where should this wire be connected?
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I've been having an ongoing problem with the gear shifter jammed in park after startup. I changed the brake switch and installed a new ignition switch to try fix the problem. Later, I noticed the battery indicator gauge was flat lined even though the truck was running. Out of sheer frustration, I banged the bottom of the steering wheel and suddenly the battery indicator jumped to life and the truck went into gear again.
I took off the panel beneath the steering wheel off to look for any obvious loose wires but found none. This sounds strange but at first, the problem occurred more in the mornings when the weather was cold outside. No, it seems that the battery indicator will flat line while I'm driving in all weather conditions but jumps back up when I tap the steering wheel. I've included a video on youtube to illustrate the problem.
Youtube Video .....
2001 F250 Lariat Superduty 7.3Lm
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1999 F-350 . My shifter lever is extremely loose, it will not go into park at all. I tightened the two torx bolts, adjusted the needle but its still bad. Im thinking the cable is loose, I saw that there is a small rod attached to the end. Is there a way to tighten it or do I need a new cable assy.?
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2015 F-250 4X4 CC gas truck. 6R140 Transmission..
My truck has 6500 miles on it and since day one when I put my shifter in (D) there is a 3-4 sec delay in the transmission to engage every morning when I start out, rest of the time there is no delay even when the truck sits all day at work (about 9 hours). I have read in 2011 (?) that the transmission was loosening it's prime and would cause this problem, so how it's got me thinking.
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Today I put a new shifter tube in a 02 f450. Everything works well, but the key won't come out and the steering wheel won't lock. Was told there is a button to push by the turn signal side but don't see any. Looked around top and bottom of column and didn't see anything out of place. Also found a black wire with a pink strip not connected to anything. Touched the wire to the column and key dinger sounded. Where should this wire be connected?
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I started having a issue with getting my 00 f250 power stroke to start. It started out I could move around the gear shifter in park and get it start and today I had several times I had to put it in neutral to get it to crank. I did notice that my shifter on the column seemed to have some play when in gear but then again my 99 F250 V10 also has some free movement when in gear. Is there a neutral safety switch I could replace or any way to adjust the shifter?
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