Prius :: 2010 - How To Clean Out Charcoal Canisters
Sep 6, 2013
I was having problems with my 2010 Prius, when I would try to put gas in it the pump would cut off after a small amount of gas. It would take quite a while to fill up the car. I took it to a Toyota Dealer and the problem was a plugged up charcoal canister, which they cleaned out. I live on a gravel road.
My question is, how to clean out the canisters? Can you just use an air hose? I'm sure running around with a plugged up canister can not be good for the car.
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I just took the car to the dealer, for a recurring Check Engine light, and after changing the gas cover 2 months ago, now they tell me that it needs to replace the Charcoal Canister pump . I have a 2008 Prius, bought used 18 months ago, with approx. 70k miles
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I wanted to know what do you use to clean the interior of your GX? For example the wood, the chrome parts, the display, the plastic around the door switches? I am using the Meguiars Gold Leather spray for the leather which is doing a decent job, but I don't know what's best for the dashboard and the other parts.
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I'm looking at 2010 Prius III. It doesn't have the Nav package.
What options are there that could add a good, clean backup cam and Nav system? Also, are there any aftermarket solutions for a "whiter" headlight?
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When I did the PCV valve on my wife's car it looked like nothing more than a metal housing with a ball bearing rattling around inside. That left me wondering, why not just clean and reinstall the original valve? Is there a reason why that wouldn't be nearly as good? I realize it's a $10 part but I have to ask the question before I go buy another for my own car.
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I'm conflicted about the white console--not sure I like the looks, but I'm very concerned about keeping it clean. Would love to hear from those of you who've owned it for a while. Also am wondering how hard is it to keep the moonstone cloth or softex clean.
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my dealer said the fuel injectors needed cleaning on my 04 toyoto prius (77000mi). this service is not in my maintenance schedule. Is it a come on ($55) or a good prevention item?
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I'm thinking about removing my perfectly functioning HV Battery to inspect it for corrosion and clean if necessary. I read so many posts both here and elsewhere that talk about corrosion being the number one reason Gen I HV Batteries fail. With that in mind, does it make sense to clean the corrosion off the battery (and related components) in an effort to extend the life of the battery.
The car is an '01 with 109,XXX miles, original traction battery, new 12V battery. The car has been very good to me (I believe that's due to steadfast preventative maintenance). There are no error codes and really nothing to complain about.
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I brought my Prius, 128,000 miles, into the dealer with the check engine light on. Runs fine, and checked the gas cap. Toyota dealer said they need to replace 4 fuel injectors, replace oxygen sensor, and clean the throttle body. Check engine light needs to be off so I can pass emission test.
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Whats the difference? which one is better? Im in the market for a cabin air filter, but I noticed there are ones that are similar to the OEM material, and then there are Charcoal cabin air filters? What is so special about a charcoal air filter?
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I have a 2004 Camry that has had ongoing issues with the Charcoal Canister over the past 3 years. The first time we came across this issue the car threw codes that indicated the Charcoal Canister had to be replaced. Our mechanic said it had to be done and there were no after market parts for this canister. We paid the $800 for parts and labour and had it replaced. Then 13 months later the car began throwing codes again. I had the car looked at again I was told the Canister would need to be replaced... They felt it was likely caused from the intake filter housing cracking. Each time our car does this the codes can be cleared for a bit but the car takes forever to fill and slowly over time you can no longer fill the car as there is so much pressure. This time I bought a used part and replaced the canister. This has happened again..
So we have now replaced this filter 3 times in three years. Can I ask how this canister continues to get gummed up? We live on dusty roads in the country but none of my other Toyota's have had any issues with this. How these canisters are getting gummed up? Is there any way for me to change this Canister myself if I buy them used? I saw in a video on this forum where the user shows putting the car up on a hoist and lowering the exhaust to get to the canister. Do you have to have a hoist? I am wondering if I can achieve this with the car on a blocks? My original mechanic said the rear suspension needs to be taken apart to access the canister? Can I ask where the dust is being drawn from to clock this filter to begin with? I have also been told you can try blowing out the lines? How to attempt this?
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1998 Corolla LD ... Diagnostic tests show that my check engine light stays on due to a charcoal canister. Is this an expensive repair?
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I drive a 1999 Subaru Legacy Outback.I had a cracked evap canister, so I went to the junkyard and grabbed another. I installed it, but had problems filling the gas tank. It would fill a few seconds, then shut off. So, I got home, pulled the evap canister, and blew through each of the three ports. Two of them had air flow in and out to each other, the third was blocked. Checking the ops diagram, looks like that port runs to the intake manifold. Should it be blocked (has a check valve or something), or should it have airflow?
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I have a 2001 Ford Excursion 6.8L V10. It runs like a champ, gets really good mileage for what it is, but there a strong fuel vapor smell coming from the charcoal vapor canister under the hood. You can smell it outside the truck and the smell gets pulled in through the vents - have to use Max AC recirc.
After checking and testing, I can confirm that the fuel vapor smell is coming from the charcoal canister and not anywhere else on the engine. The smell gets worse as the tank drains: Full Tank - Almost No Smell; Half Tank - Strong Smell; 1/4 Tank - Very Strong Smell.
Here is all that we have tried.-Replaced Fuel Cap (Genuine Ford)-Visually inspected the Evap Lines - Look Good-Visually inspected Fuel Line and Fuel Filter - Look Good-Checked the Fuel System for Leaks - None-Pressure Tested the Fuel System - No Leaks-Ran Multiple Smoke Tests on Evap System - No Leaks-Checked the Computer for Codes - No Codes-Replaced the Charcoal Vapor Canister (Genuine Ford)
We are totally stumped. I searched all the forums and can find issues with plugs, fuel injector o-rings, and leaks, but this has all be checked.
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I know this has been covered many times before but I know how to remedy the problem. My question is that I have an 09 which is still under warranty, is replacing the cabin filter/charcoal filter due to bacterial odor covered under my bumper to bumper warranty? I found some posts where people said it was but I want to double check before i waste time that I don't have with the dealer since I've been really busy with school.
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An MIL light came on the dash the other week while driving. Dealer cleared the error code but next morning it returned. Car is now in the shop to have the flapper motor and canister can replaced. Get it back tomorrow, Got '08 Jetta 2.5 as a loaner. I will run out of warranty in another couple of weeks(48100 mi. on it now).
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My AC vents have charcoal like flakes (disintegrate if you rub your fingers together) in addition to white powdery dust and fibers coming out of them. I have had the car to the dealership 3 times. The first time they replaced the drivers side left vent (claimed deterioration of the vent) - the second time they sent it back with nothing and the third time they replaced the evaporator coil. I'm still having issues with this material coming out - I've had the car for about a year and half and really don't want to get rid of it!
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I want to use leatherique on my GS, but I'm afraid of clogging the perforations and somehow losing the cooled seat feature, if you don't know about leatherique you basically massage in one oil and leave it on a hot day, then come back and clean it off with the other cleaner oil that comes with it, I used it on my old 2GS and it worked unbelievable, made my car look almost factory new, got rid of most of the creases. Also what do you do for little things stuck in the perforations that won't vacuum out? I just don't wanna use some liquid cleaner and get it in the holes.
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