Prius (2010-12) :: Uneven Throttle Response In Cold Weather
Dec 20, 2010
Uneven throttle response during cold weather engine warm-up? When sub freezing weather arrived a few weeks ago my 2010 Prius developed uneven acceleration during engine warm-up. The car was purchased in October and it ha less than 3,000 miles.
Gradual depression of the accelerator results in a very small, tiny in fact, amount of increasing power to the wheels, not in proportion to the usual smooth and responsive amount of cold starts above freezing temperatures.
Continued depression leads to a point about halfway to the floor when the engine, which of course has been running all along, suddenly surges and the car takes off with a jolt of power. Not smooth, impossible to control well and unacceptable. Many would say this is unsafe.
My 2005 Prius never had, and my wife's 2007 does not have this issue. Could be a cold weather related accelerator defect as with the Camrys, but this is not mechanical sticking as was the case with the Camrys, its an electronics error like a faulty sensor or cold start injector.
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I have a 2004 2.4 liter camry .
When I first started the car it hesitated a bit but,it was very cold. I went to give it a shot of gas but had no pedal response . I shut the car off gave the gas pedal a few whacks and it worked fine .
On the way home the car worked fine for about 30 km , just before I got home the pedal had no response again, shut the car off , started it and drove home .
The next day it was worse , so I put it on a scanner ,the scans said bad throttle position sensor (tps) and also a few codes for throttle body valve sticking or bad signal .
I tried the easy fix first and changed the gas pedal with sensor , same thing , then I changed the throttle body itself , same thing, then went a installed a computer (ecu) and that won't even start the car .
My ecu 89661-06a0, replaced it with 89661-06a2.
The car will start on all 4 cyl and idle high for a few sec then drop like normal , once the idle hits 8k rpm the car is only fires on 2 cylinders 2 and 3 , (changed then swapped coils no difference) as its idling on 2 cylinders and I press the gas pedal it will rev to about 2k rpm and run on all 4.
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When the engine is cold, and up to about half way to 190 degrees on the temp gauge, the throttle seems to not want to open very far. Almost like there is a disconnect between your foot and the throttle. You get a little acceleration but no where as much as when the engine has warmed up. I have noticed this when the outside air temp is below 25 f or so. Is this some goofy emissions or "save the motor until its warm" thing?
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In the mornings no power/ no throttle response when cold, another starts at same day fine til next morning. Car is golf iv vr6 4 motion...
5 Faults Found:
17535 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Mult): System too Rich
P1127 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17537 - Fuel Trim: Bank 2 (Mult): System too Rich
P1129 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17545 - Fuel Trim: Bank 1 (Add): System too Rich
P1137 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17547 - Fuel Trim: Bank 2 (Add): System too Rich
P1139 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17551 - Load Calculation Cross Check: Upper Limit Exceeded
P1143 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Also O2 sensor show on idle -20% to -15% (engine temp 60 C) but vagcom normal was (-10% to 10%) (after reading from ross-tech, maybe O2 readings are off because running rich) and intake air temp was 29`C but outside were 17`C, it has new maf...
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In our recent -20 F cold spell in Chicago, I noticed the ride got very stiff, have others experienced this in very cold weather? My theory is that the oil in the shocks or dampers become extra viscous at these temps and the cold shocks causes the ride to becomes like that of a Honda Civic with a dropped suspension. (It's so amusing to watch those Civic "low riders" going over railroad crossings, but it's all image right????)
Anyway I would think the colder temps would lower the air pressure in the tires, softening the tires a bit, but perhaps the rubber hardens counteracting that benefit. I have Michelin Primacy BTW. Since temps went back up above about +10 F ride seem to be OK again.
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I read about the white smoke and I found that is normal in cold weather!! Is that true and what do you think ?
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I'm getting pretty significant throttle response delay in my 2013 Elantra w/ Tech. It's pretty egregious in stop-and-go traffic when I attempt to accelerate, wait a second before my car responds, and then get jerked forward, only to stop a second later.
I emailed Hyundai and was told to speak to the dealership. I called up the dealership and they had no idea what I was talking about. I emailed another local dealership, and they didn't get back to me. Pretty annoyed at this point.
I did a search on this forum and found some threads discussing resetting the throttle system by resetting the ECM. Wasn't too confident in doing that myself and I didn't want to mess up my car's computer system at all. I'd like the dealership to take care of this under warranty, but if they haven't heard anything about this, then I'm not sure how to proceed. What my next move should be?
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I have a 2006 Pri with 194,000 miles on it that has been dead reliable & owes me nothing really, now developing a serious problem. Only when it is below about 10 deg F I will get total failure of the power braking system on or shortly after startup Has happened on 3 days this winter. ABS light, Brake warning, continuous high pitched beep (very annoying warning the driver of immanent death!
When this happens I get almost no movement on the brake pedal. It's rock hard & acts pretty much like loosing power brakes on any car (ie. you will eventually stop, but not a safe condition). There is no transition to this condition. It's either "everything normal" or total failure. Brake fluid reads half way between min & max and looks clean, no sign of moisture, but has never been flushed.
The last time it happened I was leaving work, couldn't swap cars... so I drove straight to the dealer (white knuckled). Dealer calls the next day saying it's the Brake Actuator needing replacement. I told them I wasn't spending that & to look again for a cheaper problem like Fluid, 12v battery, Relay...
No dice. They confirm it's the actuator.
The code they read is C1256. They "checked resistance at actuator pins & found high resistance at pins 1&2." I'm thinking about just topping up the fluid a bit more, or getting the fluid flushed & changed, or changing the 12v battery (I need to check voltage on next cold morning), or just not driving it at those temps & hoping it doesn't get worse.
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The throttle response from a standstill seems VERY slow. When I push down the accelerator, it seems to go down a good 3-4 inches before I meet any significant resistance, and even then, I can do a good 2 second count before the engine seems to engage. If I am stopped at a light, and I slightly blip the accelerator, then push the pedal down, it does better. But if I am stopped and floor the gas pedal, nothing happens....at ALL...for at least 2 seconds. It is slightly better when in manual, but the issue is enough for even my wife to comment that it takes off very slowly when you first give it gas.
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My wife has a 2010 RX-350 which had to have the transmission replaced a few weeks ago. She has run into an issue when it's cold that the car seems to be stuck in neutral as she applies the gas and it just creeps. This most recent time, the "Check Engine" light came on the message "Check AWD" on the dash. Lexus says they can't find anything wrong except slightly low Transmission Fluid.
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I notice if I drive on anything other than a smooth road the suspension squeaks a lot. Is this normal when its -30C or -22F? Car has 30000km and is 2.5 years old if that makes a difference.
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I have had my 2010 Prius for 6 months and have noticed that when I'm braking over an uneven surface my car seems to speed up. It's a very uncomfortable feeling. Is this a characteristic of regen braking or is there something wrong?
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The drivers window on my 2016 Elantra freezes up with ice in cold weather. How can I safely unfreeze it?
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It's been extremely cold in the northeast recently (<20 degrees), and I've noticed that my suspension has been very noisy (clunking type noises) when I'm driving on uneven roads or bumps. Is this normal? Is there something I can do to alleviate it?
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I purchased a 2013 RX450h in May. Now that it's getting cold I've noticed that when I start the car I get a moderately loud "whirring" sound from the dash for the first few minutes after I start the vehicle. It sounds similar to a cassette tape being rewound or something. It seems to originate from inside the dash, behind the CD player and other controls. This only happens when it's quite cold out (below freezing or thereabout).
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With the temps at a all time low in the U.S. this week, my TPMS warning light has come on in my 2012 RX350. It will stay very cold for most of the week, so is it ok to drive with my warning light on.
I don't want to check my psi in the tires with a tire gauge because I was told a valve stem can freeze open in extreme cold letting the tire to go completely flat.
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I have a 2010 Honda Accord that is having issues with metal rattling when there is cold weather. I believe the rattling is coming from the heat plates where the exhaust pipe starts. However, I have taken it to the Honda Dealership in San Antonio. They cannot find where the noise is coming from the car. The issue has been occurring for the last 2 years. On top of that, my oil light is coming on. I am not sure if the oil light and the heavy metal rattling are linked (properly not). I would like to get this fixed.
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I've had my 2010 Prius II for less than a month and am not particularly happy with it. I've experienced a slight surge forward when braking on uneven pavement at low speeds at least 4-5 times in 900 miles. This isn't something I can duplicate on demand. When I took it in to the dealer after the first time and asked if the ABS fix had been made to it, they told me my car wasn't part of the "campaign" (aka recall) because it was manufactured in March and the ABS problem had been solved by then. However, it sounds exactly like the problem people were discussing in Jan/Feb.
Once when I put it in reverse in a parking lot it lurched backward (my foot was on the brake) suddenly -- not far, but it was an alarming sensation. It also has a high pitched, barely audible whine when moving (can't hear it if I put on the radio). The mechanic said that was the normal sound of the battery, but I don't remember it from other cars I test drove. Is it normal?
I'm keeping an eye on the dome lights every time I park because I found them on one night (they'd probably never shut off after I parked the car during daylight hours) -- it could have been that the light was switched to "on" rather than "door," but now I'm paranoid and constantly check to make sure they're off when they're supposed to be, for fear of wearing down that little 12 v battery. Not fun.
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I was heading home last night from work and noticed something odd. It was the first pretty cold night that we have had around 20-25 deg. and I took off from the parking lot like normal.
When I got to the first stop light about a mile down the road I heard what sounded like the engine revving up right when I took my foot off the gas pedal. It did this as I coasted to the stop light. It also did it again at the next stop light just up the street. I thought maybe it was the heater blower, but It really sounded and felt like the engine revving. The car did not accelerate or anything, is this part of the warm up or normal? I also have the lower grill blocked but I don't see how that would make any difference.
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"Vehicle with smart key system: The indicator light flashes after the "POWER" switch has been turned OFF to indicate that the system is operating." I have noticed that my immobilizer light will not blink when it has the no start issue. usually when the key is out the light blinks but when it won't blink.... it won't start.
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Well again my celly has died. I was driving down the road listening to some tunes when i noticed all of a sudden i had no throttle response and when I turned down the music my engine had cut out. Well i tried to start it back up and it was a no go. I tested for spark and I am getting nothing, I replaced the main relay and the distributor. I have new plug wires and NGK spark plugs in. This is my main source of transportation so any leads would be amazing. I have a 91 Celica ST with the 1.6 4AFE.
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