When I close my boot door, I am finding I am having to slam it shut because it keeps bouncing open. I've take my car too toyota and they come out with, I have to have front car door open for it to shut first time, (but it still bounces bk open). I personally think its the boot catch not working as it should...
View 7 RepliesOk, I'm not sure how to explain this, but I've noticed with some cars, you can slam the car doors real hard any something stops them from slamming and shaking everything. It seems that some seal or something in the door construction deals with that extra energy without giving you the impression you are slowly causing the car to fall apart. But not with the Prius. In fact, I have regular passengers who know my pet peeve and try not to slam the door and still have trouble *not* doing it.
What the name for this effect is, why the Prius has this problem, what it is that other cars have done to prevent it, and if there is something I can do about it, like an after-market modification?
2010 prius III. Just got it about a month ago and I've noticed that when I go to close the hatch, it slams pretty hard. I feel like the struts will hold up the hatch to about 2/3 of the way down then it just drops really hard and slams shut while rattling the spoiler so hard I feel like it's going to fall off. Is this normal, or should I look into maybe replacing the struts?
View 10 RepliesI cannot lock my prius hatch door. It will shut but the lock does not engage. Apparently the lock is broken. Can I order the part and have a mechanic friend do it for me as Toyota want to charge $200 to install it. The part from Toyota is $210.
View 3 RepliesWas replacing the rear brakes on my Mom's 2010 Prius II and found a tiny tear in the piston dust boot on the driver side. The piston still moves freely. I was hoping the boot could be replaced without removing the piston but from reading the repair manual on the brakes it specifically says the boot must be placed on the piston before the piston is installed.
So now I'm debating on what to do. I can rebuild the caliper for almost nothing but I can't bleed the brakes because of the Prius' system. I would have to take it to the dealer afterwards and not sure about driving it there. Do things could be damaged with air in the system?
I have the regular Prius 2012, The brake pedal is attached to a rod that goes into a flex boot and then into the ABS module in the Engine compartment. The Boot is leaking sticky greasy/oily fluid. It not a constant leak. Its like it leaked on a Hot day and then stopped leaking.
Its not the one from my car, but its what I'm calling the ABS Mod Is this not just the lubricant for the Pedal or is this real brake fluid from the ABS module leaking into the Car? took it to Toyota and they said they had never seen this before and they are recommending to replace the entire ABS Module and Brake Fluid at a cost of $3346 + Tax. (roughly $2700 in parts)
I have been without my dub for over a month mk4 gti/golf awp motor 1.8t manual transmission and have ran multiple scans and replaced multiple parts. I am suffering from a no start condition, start and stall immediately, and have troubleshot many problems.
Most recent vcds scan results are: intermittent door module fault (not faulty, not implausible, "intermittent") (j386) Speed sensor implausible (g28) (already replaced with no change) open circuit or short b+ fuel level sensor fault.
I have had the driver side door taken apart on multiple occasions and found: no cracked joints on the pcm of the LOCK module (solder covered by brownish/gold sealant?) Two breaks, 1 in the ground and 1 in the hot wire between the chassis and the door and since applied electrical tape to the chafed part of the door wire harness. I have ran multiple scans since applying the tape with various results.
After applying a maintainer and verifying full charge on BRAND NEW BATTERY I ran scan with above codes.
I have in the last month replaced coolant temp sensor, fuel filter, fuel pump relay, above mentioned battery, and installed toggle switch to lock module micro-switch, speed sensor. About 5-10k miles ago I replaced the fuel pump with vemo brand from ecs tuning and fuel pump relay.
I have re "seated" and cleaned all terminals, below and on the battery as well as on the transmission, have "checked" the ground just in front of the ecu and removed enough parts to place my hands on it to check for a loose condition. Also checked ground on top of block next to coil packs. I've checked pillar a for chafing and the ground next to pillar A and the ground just below the CCM.
I have also taken a mallet and attempted to re create this door slamming condition by tapping everywhere around the door jam on the chassis and door with no change. Also with the door LOCK module removed, I have tapped on it to see if pump would prime, no change...........
After sitting in my recaro imitation cloth seat totally defeated I realized that the intermittent fault code was pointing the "integrated window motor/DOOR module" that was the only thing I hadn't attempted to "test" (originally thought window motor was only a window motor)
Verified continuity to the door module, and verified continuity to relay panel, fuel pump and lock module........... Also tapped on the DOOR module itself with no change.
Piece the whole door back together, slam the door and bam fuel pump primes........... (also massaged the repaired-chafed wires before and after re-installing back into door, with no change/prime.) After sitting a while sometimes it will prime by itself......(with any of the 3 fuel pump relays I have for this car)..
Replacing 1 fuel part after the other over the 4 years I've owned the car has temporarily resolve my issue, until now. (Also have tapped around gas tank/retainer ring on the pump to see if fuel level sensor fault was a culprit). I don't believe this to be the issue because I've netted this fault in the past and has never cause a no start condition or come back after clearing when replacing fuel related part.
After slamming the door I have noticed the pump primes in waves, like a hum hum hum instead of 1 solid hmmmmm and when the car DOES start (when the pump primes) the pump continues the hum hum hum condition before dying. (I have gone as far as a test drive and I rev the engine and put in gear but acts as if i have a bad clutch, all rpms, no horse power like it's slipping condition from a bad clutch
immo light goes off when key in on position, epc and check engine light are off after car STARTS when slamming the door. With key in on position hear a loud click under hood (relay station I'm certain) but the throttle body buzz's until the chime sounds with door open (have not tested this when it DOES prime.....)
I have just bought a 2013 Elantra GLS and occasionally the passenger door won't shut. When you close the door, it will bounce back. It's like it's not catching. I took it to the dealer and they lubed the mechanism that catches, but it did it again. And of course, this is one of those things that won't repeat itself at the dealership.
View 16 RepliesI have a 2010 Nissan Versa and its been getting cold which is normal this time of year. The other morning I went out to warm the car up before taking my son to the bus stop and the door was frozen shut, not just the handle but I couldn't open up my door at all. It was frozen from the inside. I was thinking that because it rained the previous day and the seal around the door got a little wet from the rain when I opened it and didn't dry before it got really chilly and that's what caused it to stick. So I'm wondering, if this happens again, which I'm sure it will....what's a good way to unstick the door? The other morning, I opened up the back the car (it's a hatchback) and crawled in, started the car and cranked the heater up and that seemed to work, but there are some mornings that the whole car is a big block of ice.
View 12 RepliesThe 6 button powercode remote start and alarm will shut the engine down if you open the door after remote starting.
Here is the fix, I found it somewhere else. It's nice doing stuff yourself that the dealer tells you it cant be done.
open the drivers door
turn on the ignition
hold the program/override button for 15 sec (horn will chirp 3 times)
press the override button again horn will chirp 4 times
" " horn will chirp 5 times
" " horn will chirp 6 times
" " horn will chirp 7 times
" " horn will chirp 8 times letting you know you are in option bank 5.
press the panic button on the fob horn will chirp once
" " chirp twice
" " chirp three times
" " chirp 4 times
" " chirp 5 times
press the lock button on the fob once...your led alarm light will now be off.
Turn off the ignition
you are done
Enjoy
Activate the remote start open the door(smile) just don't press the brake before you put key in ignition and turn.
My door swings shut in the wind or if the car is not parked level. It looks like an easy piece to replace but if theres a trick to installing it.
View 4 RepliesI'm repainting my peeling shifter trim plate and replacing the shift boot with a new one. Lots of support available on removing the shifter and disassembling the trim plate, but no clear instructions on how to remove the boot from the knob. It looks like this inside:
How do I separate the boot from the knob to install a new boot? The only instructions I found showed a metal collar which is not the case in our cars.
Its a 2009 sonata 2.4L auto. The button on the remote for boot works & I can open the fuel lid from the boot manually.
I am in perth.
I have a 2010 Prius that completely shut down in the middle of the interstate, I had to have it towed to Toyota. No clue where else to take it so I took it to the dealership.....
View 11 RepliesI'm about to take delivery of my new 2010 Prius IV. With the winters we get here, in my current car, there are times when I need to shut off VSC to power (read spin) up a hill instead of the car cutting power and leaving me stuck on the side of a hill. I have checked the manual and I do not see a way to shut this feature off. Both my car and the wife's have a button on the dash that shuts off stability control for the short term when needed, like in snow/sand, etc.
View 19 RepliesMy wife's 2010 Prius IV died on the highway at 65 mph; just shut down at speed and would not restart. She had it towed to the dealer and there it's been now for 5 weeks! The tow truck operator was able to drive up on the flat bed using EV, but no engine. Dealer says it's the inverter which has a nationwide backorder and no ETA.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2012 Prius (3) with toyota Entune installed. Everything was working fine until recently. Several time after shutting the car off, my phone (Android RAZR/MAXX) starts ringing. It sounds like a phone call, but there is no call to answer and the ringing continues. Powering off the phone stops the ringing. But the next tine I turn off the Prius, the ringing resumes. I'm not sure if the problem is with the phone, with the car, or with Entune.
View 1 RepliesI own a 2010 Prius that now has over 90K under its belly (got it new at around September 2009).
While driving at night all of a sudden the central LCD panel (Odometer) shut down. The right panel is perfectly fine.
Is there a solution?
I'm sitting on an interstate that's shut down due to a wreck. Battery creeping low. What should I so? I just powered off.
View 19 RepliesIf I put the Prius in park while I get out and mail a letter, engine temp is 190, I can get back in and drive off on electric, zero rpm's. However, if I push the start/stop button, mail the letter, and restart the engine (temp is still 190), I cannot get the engine to spool down. It keeps running for a few minutes.
View 4 RepliesI was able to shut down the very annoying seat belt buzzer on my three 2008 Prius taxi's but when I tried on my 2010 Prius tonight it didn't work. I have done some searches on this forum and haven't found any solutions.
Just imagine the pleasure on a busy day of having 30 to 40 calls or more and most people not putting their belt on. Not looking forward to having to listen to the annoying seat belt buzzer/bell whatever you want to call it.