Prius (2010-12) :: Wheel Bearing Sound / Slight Drag From The Pads On The Disc
Feb 22, 2015
I have a 2010 model 5 and am experiencing a woo, woo, woo, woo type sound. I thought it was from the rear but after jacking up and turning each rear wheel, all I hear is the slight drag from the pads on the disc. The car has 61K on it and from previous posts that seems to be about the mileage range for one. It is most noticeable above 25 to 45 mph. Bad front bearing with this sound? The car is covered under the platinum warranty so cost is not a problem, just getting it diagnosed is useful.
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Need to replace at least one rear wheel bearing, but still not positive which side. Getting a whump whump whump and slight howl at speed that seems to be worse going around right turns, so will change the drivers side first.
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My front disc brakes are creating a small amount of drag on the rotor. With the car jacked up and wheel off I am able to easily turn the rotor by hand, but there is a small amount of drag. I haven't had any problems with my brakes, they have never frozen or overheated, etc. I put new brake pads and rotors on the front about 6 months ago only because it was time for replacement. The question is: how much disc brake drag is acceptable? Looking around on the internet for answers there doesn't seem to be a consensus: some people say absolutely no brake drag, some say that a small amount is normal. What do you think?
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For several days I could hear a scraping sound from the right front side. I thought it was snow packed in the wheel well at first, until there wasn't any snow there. Today I was driving on the Xway and the scraping became a buzz like a Cessna airplane. On the way back home I turned the steering wheel back and forth and sure enough the buzz came and went. That made it sure to me the wheel bearing was bad.
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At 46,400 miles of gentle driving, my left wheel bearing failed on my 2010 Prius, which was not covered by warranty because it is not 'drive train'. I was told there was nothing I did or could have done to cause this. I have had 4 Toyotas, two with over 200,000 miles, and never had this serious a repair (that wasn't my fault!). Am I being unreasonable to think this is unusual? I'm wondering if this car is going to continue to be a problem.
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My rear passenger tire spins easily and makes noise. Here is the link to video....
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Is there a thread on how to change the disc brake pads? I need to do it but don't want to make any mistakes......
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I am trying to change pads on the rear disc brakes. I got everything apart but can't get the piston to retract to get the new pads in. I am turning the piston clockwise with needle nose plyers and it isn't retracting. What do I need to do?
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Inserted updated nav disc as directed in nav disc slot, closed door. Now the disc is stuck in the scan-disc mode and the load/eject button doesn't work on it. Wondering if there is a way to force eject the disc or other way to unstick it. You can hear the disc 'whirring' briefly as if it is trying to eject, but is stuck. It does this over and over. That's the only sound; none of the other buttons are responsive.
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Not sure where to even start this but ill try to keep in concise. 03 gli 24v 6 speed. 125500 miles. At about 123500, i start noticing this slightly growly bearing sound at idle, without the clutch pedal pressed. When you press the clutch pedal, it goes away. Waited a bit, and at 125k, i replaced the clutch, flywheel, and throwout bearing, thinking it was a bad throwout bearing. It wasnt that.
Next, after more research, it seemed the 02m 6 speeds have had some issue with input shaft bearings wearing out making similar noises. So, pull the trans back out, and send it to APTuning in PA. Have new input shaft bearings, upper and lower pinion shaft bearings, and diff bearings put in. Even though they said they saw no major wear to be worried about in any of them. And here we are, left with the same noise.
One of the guys at APTuning said they had a case with one car where the thrust bearings wore so bad it made for a similar condition. Where the car would make unpleasant noise without the pedal pressed, and would go away when a load was put on it with the pedal. SO, i guess what im asking is, is there validity to that? What are the chances my otherwise seemingly fine 24v has this issue and end play is so bad that is causing this noise?
The noise gets NOTICEABLY louder when the car is hot. Its almost silent on cold starts. But after 15 miles or so it can be heard almost voice level with the windows down when you're stopped and idling; it really hurts to drive it being a caring owner hearing it. The motor is still in the car with all accessories so i can't check the end play scientifically. But to be fair, if this is plausible, and is the issue, i dont think it'd take precision to tell.
I'm so deep into this, and thought I've ruled out everything yet the noise persists. Really at a loss..
Listen around :30 where I start to cycle the clutch pedal. When I press it, you hear the main shaft "spin down" and the noise go away. When I release the pedal again, you here the clunk and the noise again. Its also been sitting for 3 hours. Good bit louder when hot [URL] .....
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This may be by design but while cleaning my car running my hand w dry cloth over steering wheel I noticed a slight bump. To the left of the Toyota logo. I'm not sure if it's on purpose so if the airbag deploys it breaks away but I just noticed it. it's a 2015 Prius 3. Rather not have the airbag go off while driving.
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while taking turns at slow speeds, but only sometimes. Can't reproduce by turning wheel when not in motion. My 3yers/36,000 miles warranty expires soon. How do I prove I have a potential problem?
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2001 supercrew 4x4 all wheel disc brakes. Driver side brake is stopping harder than all the rest to the point that the pads will smoke if you do a hard stop
thought it was the caliper sticking. Replaced caliper and mount. Still same problem. Thought possibly there was air in the lines. Bled all 4 brakes several times. And still the driver front wheel still stopping harder than the rest. I wouldn't think it would be the master cylinder.
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My girlfriend and I just bought a 2011 a few weeks ago. We test drove it a couple times ourselves, and had our mechanic take a look at it and drive it also. Everything looked and sounded good. Not sure how much it matters, but it's a Certified Used as well.
A couple days ago, returning from a 45-minute drive which included some short stretches of gravel road, I noticed an oscillating sound. It's definitely not a noise that was there when we bought the car. Unfortunately, my cell is apparently bad at capturing audio, so hopefully my description will be enough.
The noise is very faint, almost inaudible, at low speeds. Between 30 and 35 mph it gets much louder, peaking at about 33. There's some vibration through the accelerator pedal also. Above 35, it fades pretty quickly and I can't really hear it at 50. The sound itself is 3 beats on, 1 beat off, about every second. There's a slight difference in pitch between each beat.
If that isn't enough to go on, let me know and I'll give the recording another shot and upload it if the noise is audible.
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08' 4x4. I changed the front brake hoses because the truck felt like it was dragging a bit, when i would hit the gas from a stop, that seemed to work, I also changed the front rotors because when braking I was getting a pulsing feeling in the brake pedal. that fixed that.
Now I feel like there is still a bit of a slight drag when I'm at a stop and let off the brake. when im on level ground the truck creeps forward from a stop when letting off the brake, on the slightest incline the truck wont go forward at all.
Do the truck want to move forward on a tiny incline or no?
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Alright a few weeks ago I had right wheel bearing replaced...noise still there... Had tires balanced, rotated, checked for capping. The dealer hears the noise but can't tell where its coming from.
The sound is classic wheel bearing Whoop Whoop Whoop and I can control it when I turn to the wheel right and left. This will be the fourth time its in the shop.
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I had been hearing the low groaning of the wheel bearings for several weeks and was on my way to the garage to have the car repaired when my 2000 Saturn SL1 recently had an uncontained wheel bearing failure, in which there was the screaming the gnashing of metal, as well as the left wheel wobbling. The car was towed to the garage, and they replaced both wheel bearings (the one that exploded, and the other one which was on its way out as well). After wards I have noticed three items:
#1 - The car was initially quiet, but about 2 weeks later I've started hearing the low drone "wheel bearing going" sound. The only difference is, it does not change when I turn the wheel to the left or right. The garage said they couldn't tell if it was the wheel bearings going bad, but it could be the transmission.
#2 - Since the replacement my breaks feel spongier than normal. The garage said the master break cylinder may have been damaged when the wheel bearing blew apart, but that the car was safe to drive, unless it got worse. (My breaks used to be very firm, now there is more play in them).
#3 - Finally, since the repair when driving at highway speeds the car pulls to the right, and sometimes shudders, and when down shifting (not breaking) the car pulls to the left... I have not yet had the garage look at this. My question is - what do others make of these symptoms? And, is the garage feeding me a line of BS? Or are they spot on?
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So it finally happened -- I got CDs stuck in the JBL factory-installed four-disc changer on my 2010 Toyota Prius. (We predicted this would happen the first time we saw it.) What I didn't expect was that the dealership says it can't be repaired and that the CD player -- and the whole navigation system -- have to be replaced. Really? That's the kind of planned obsolescence that will make me never buy another Toyota again.
I took it to a car audio specialist who told me the same thing. But there again, their goal is sell me something, so I’m skeptical. I’m thinking about going the route of giving in to an extended warranty swindle and then cancelling it once I get the cd player replaced. But that feels like overkill, and it makes me as duplicitous as I suspect they are being. If it’s indeed true, that cds stuck in the cd player means you have to replace everything? That’s just not right…
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My 18 year old launched the little wire spring thing that applies pressure for the brake pads on front disc brakes. Could have gone in to neighbor's yard! Actually lost one on each side. He put it all back together without one on each side. I said it would still work fine. What's the deal really? Can't be that important are they?
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Camry 2004, 50,000 miles
Last week my car started to give out loud thud noise from the rear passenger side wheel and shook as I accelerated. My wheel bearing was bad and leaking. Replaced it. The loud thud noise and shaking are now gone.
However, I hear a constant very low rattling sound from the same wheel when I cruise above 40 mph. Time to time I also hear a loud rattling tin can sound lasting for two seconds, and it mostly happens when I make right turns.
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Not my video, but I have the same exact sound coming from my passenger side wheel on my 03 V10 4X4, 130K. Passenger side only, no noise from the other side.
YouTube .....
Before I spring for the Timkin, does this sound like a bad bearing? No play in the wheel, but it's a clicking sound.
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