Prius (2010-12) :: Unable To Accelerate When Pressed Pedal / Speed Lost
Oct 14, 2012
I have a 2010 Prius and have been driving several for the past 7 years.Yesterday, I was driving on the Expressway at 60 mph and all of a sudden I was momentarily stuck at 60 as if I was in Cruise control which I wasn't. Gradually, I was unable to accelerate when I pressed down on the pedal, lost speed and cruised over to the side of the road as if I was out of gas which I wasn't. I shut the engine off, waited a minute and started up again. I continued on my journey without a problem. When I reached my destination I shut down the engine and re started 4 hrs later and drove home 120 miles without a problem. What is the cause of this and is it still under warranty. I have 50,000 miles on the vehicle. May I add, this is the first problem ever encountered.
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We have a new 2015 Prius with 6k on it and we are noticing one solid brief single click when the brake pedal is pressed and/or released. It doesn't happen every time (just some of the time) but it is only noticeable at slow speeds.
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Ok, did an intake manifold cleaning on my 99 Accord the other day, and now I have problems...
Long story short, some time ago my car started to have a very rough idle. Took me awhile to find the problem. Turned out the air hose, between the filter and throttle body, had developed a big hole on the underside. So I replaced it and while I was at it used some throttle body cleaner, spraying into the intake manifold chamber. Lot of junk blew out the tailpipe. The car ran much better, but the idle could still be a little rough. I ran it that way for awhile, and finally the other day decided there was probably still some junk in there and it was time to really clean it out. So I took ff the throttle body and intake manifold housing. There was a lot of junk in there! The small intake on the passenger side was completely clogged shut. (I understand this isn't surprising on these cars.) I used a bunch of rags and 2 cans of Valvoline throttle body cleaner and a lot of elbow grease and cleaned it out. I was thinking to myself that whatever I didn't get with the rags flushed through OK, but I didn't want to take the whole intake manifold out.
So I put it all back together. (I took a video before I started, so I'm pretty sure it's all back together right.) But now I have problems. The car starts. It idles fine mostly, but can be a bit rough. But the trouble starts when I put the pedal down. If I do it in Park, well, if I push it quick the engine just dies. If I push it slow, the engine revs then quits, revs and quits, over and over. Similar if it's in gear. If I push it hard, the engine stalls. If I push it gentle, it revs up, but chugs along a bit.
I've run some seafoam through it, thinking it was clogged up with all that junk, and sure enough, lots of smoke comes out, but nothing is improving so far. What have I done wrong?
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I have a 2004 Ford f-250 super duty 6.0 turbo diesel. I noticed yesterday that it was making a jet sound when i pressed the pedal and got louder as i increased the speed. When you let go of the pedal it goes away. I have asked around and some say it could be the turbo...the diesel mechanic THINKS it could be the fan clutch. The truck doesn't overheat and if i punch it i don't think i sense any loss of performance. All I know is that it makes this sound like a plane taking off.
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I have 2013 Elantra ( 20,000 miles) and when I put the brake lights on without the headlights on everything works ok but when the headlights are on the driver's side brake light does not come on when the brake pedal is pressed. I thought it was a bulb problem so I replaced it but I am still having the same issue. What is going on? I know it is still under warranty but I figured I could handle a burnt bulb issue but that was not it. I noticed that the drivers side bulb is not as bright either when brake is pressed without headlights
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To all 2014 and 2015 GX 460 owners, does brake pedal have a slight modulation or vibration while press it. Feels like ABS but not as strong pumping action.
When I step on the brakes the first time feels normal and then I let go of the brakes, then I press it the second time that is when I feel a slight modulation or vibration of the brake pedal.
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So tonight, I lost most of my brakes. If I kept at low speeds and pressed the pedal to the floor I could eventually stop, but not well. I imagine this might be more of a general question not specific to Ex's, but I thought I would start here.
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My wife called and said her ES350 couldn't start. I told her to wait 5 minutes and tried again. It still wouldn't start.
So I went there and tried to start the car. My first try did not work either. I noticed that the brake pedal couldn't be pressed down. It was quite stiff. So I pressed hard on the brake pedal and tried again. This time it started. It has been working fine since then.
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2010 Toyota Corolla 59 k kilometers ... I recently bought this car pre-owned by the dealership. I am having it inspected again next week on the Monday.
The car makes a continuous squeaky noise like metal rubbing together when the clutch pedal is not being pressed. The sound stops when pressing the clutch pedal. I opened the hood of my car while the engine was running and found that the part responsible for the noise, but I do not know what this is and wanted to be a little more educated before putting money down on a problem that i can't understand. The sound is heavier when the car speeds up or on high revs. It seems the piece in the picture is rattling.
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I was wondering if this problem is the "Barking" noise that keeps coming up the search or is it another problem. I will include a link to the video down below.
To start off, the Prius is 2010 Prius II and has 120k miles on it. Great Car. Only other problem was AC compressor dying at 90k.
The chirping noise happens when the brake pedal is pressed and does not go away until the release the pedal. It makes the noise regardless of whether the car is on or off.
It makes the noise when the car is stopped and or when the mechanical brake engage at between 0 and 6 mph.
Noise does not occur when the brake switch is removed. Not valid solution since the brake lights will stay on. It does not affect the performance of braking.
Here is the link to the video .... .... ....
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Today I faced another problem i just try to start my car but, due the dead 12v battery it didn't start so i pressed the BRAKE PEDAL until it reach the bottom, again i tried to press but its not going to the bottom why was that, is it due to dead battery? And last time i called an automobile expertise to jump start my car. They check the voltage with a digital multi-meter and he said me if you jump start even you will get this problem again until u replace the new battery. but i said him it doesn't matter do a jump start and finally it was ok . Now again I faced the same problem and this time i am going to change the battery.
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This happens to me again on a very hot day. The symptom is: all of sudden, the brake pedal becomes stiff. I mean I can only depress down the pedal just a little bit. Then when I want to accelerate, the engine works very hard and speed picks up very slowly. RPM will shoot to 3000. When I remove my foot from the gas pedal, the speed drops very fast. The car slows down much sooner than usual. So my feeling is the brake is dragging the car. The dealer cannot duplicate the problem during short test drive. So what can be wrong? The brake booster was replaced a few months ago. Is it possible it provides too much boost?
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I've bought a brand new 2012 Prius C 3.
This morning I was trying to back out of a parking spot and put it on a reverse after starting my car. As soon as I my car started moving forward and hit the curb right in front of the car. I couldn't believe my eyes so I put the gear back to Parking and back to reverse, and as soon as I touched gas, it again accelerated forward.
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I purchased a 2001 Prius with 123K miles about two weeks ago. I knew the HV battery was shot when i purchased it. I decided to see if I could rebuild the HV battery on my own.
I'm very mechanical but not the brightest bulb in the room when it comes to batteries and anything electrical.
So here is where I'm at so far:
- I removed the HV battery.
- safely rested it on 2 horses (I used horses because it would give me easy access to the bottom to remove the bottom screws)
- Removed all 38 modules from the battery pack
- cleaned the busses in vinegar
- inspected each wire that connects between buss and the nut.
- tested each battery ( one of the batteries tested at -0.1, the others tested at 6.8)
- I don't know how to load test the modules, so I couldn't tell if they would drop dramatically under load, so I ordered 38 used replacement batteries off of Ebay. (Gen II)
- these replacement modules were about a half inch longer than my original modules.
- The replacement modules arrived. I cleaned the terminals, tested each one and installed them.
- Connected the battery back into the prius.
- Installed new 12V battery from the Toyota dealer.
- The Prius started right up.
- Drove it around for the first time for about 10 minutes.
- When i was driving it, the monitor in the Prius would show the engine running most of the time but sometimes it would show it charging the HV and other times charging the 12V. the engine would shut off at stop lights and resume when I pressed on the gas pedal.
- while driving back into my driveway, all of the warning lights came on and the battery fan kicked into high gear,
- I can't remember the code I pulled but it was in reference to the cells being out of balance I think. I'll have to check it again tonight when I get home.
- I removed the HV and tightened the nuts around the busses hoping the issue would be resolved.
- I was able to drive it only a few minutes before the issue returned.
other issues I noticed.
While waiting for the replacement batteries to arrive, I did the following:
- changed the cabin filter
- did an oil change.
- changed the tranny fluid and removed the tranny pan to clean out the slime and clean off the magnet.)
- changed the rear brake shoes.
- changed the front brake rotors and pads. ( they were in awful condition due to sitting so long)
***when I pressed on the brakes, only the rear brakes seem to engage, not the front. I never attempted to bleed them because I know only the dealer can do that)
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I have a 2011 GTI 6MT, APR tuned. I am unable to rev beyond 4000 RPM in neutral, or in 1st with clutch pressed. Parking brake on/off doesn't matter either. I don't rev my engine at stop lights or anything stupid like that, I just found this out because a member on here suggested that I rev the engine up to test for an issue with something else, and I found this 4000 RPM limiter. Is this normal?
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Its a 2005 model with 45000 miles on the clock, so low mileage for the year. The problem with it is the engine starts up ready fr a journey, and as soon as the accelerator pedal is pressed, the engine cuts out.
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I have a 2001 toyota prius. When I start the car and press on the gas pedal the engine rev's but nothing moves and there is some clatter from the engine. I can put it in B mode and drive it a short distance, but that's it.... The engine light has been coming off and on for a week now. It makes a loud audible tone and then I turn it off and back on and then it stops.
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My 6 months treg, died climbing a hill. I selected low, than central, and rear differential, but after 100m my Treg stop. Not able to accelerate the engine.
Engine running, no message on screen!!! The acceleration was not working.
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The car has been parked for a few months and i get into it and the navi reads unable to read disk? So I eject it and its perfectly clean. I give it a wipe down just for good measure and slap it back in. after a few minutes and some hesitations it works fine.. Then it happens again like 20 miles away, just goes black and says unable to read disk then comes back on again by itself.. Would a newer updated disk work? I have 90k on it and this is the first time I've ever removed the nav disk, could the lens be dirty..
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Since I purchased my 2010 I've never been able to use EV mode. I know it's just a novelty, and actually hurts gas mileage (due to the need to convert gas to electricity to recharge the battery), so I haven't lost sleep over this, but it is somewhat annoying.
Is there a known problem with 2010s and EV mode? No matter how gently I apply the accelerator it pops out into ECO mode again almost immediately with a message like "insufficient charge" (or something like that), even if the battery is near full charge (I've never seen it fully charged).
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As I had two extra keys from my last Prius (totaled 2010), I took them to the dealer to get them programmed - they spent gobs of time, but could not get them to register. They verified they were the correct keys - but in the end, could not get through to Toyota's higher level tech support to troubleshoot it....
They said they'd try again on my first service. Why there would be an issue programming extra keys???
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