Prius (2010-12) :: Slow Tire Leak - Rear Suspension With Rigid Tension Bar
Aug 25, 2012
I fixed a slow tire leak today and in the process I examined the rear suspension closely. I had one rear corner jacked up and could easily see the difference in position of both rear wheels compared to the frame. The difference was only in the range of 1 inch. Mind you one wheel was in the air, and the other was bearing the doubled weight.
I also examined the substantial torsion bar with it's C-shaped cross-section and closed edges. I don't see how any additional anti-sway bars could benefit this very stiff arrangement.
I know that members that installed rear anti-sway bars raved about performance increase.
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I running into a bit of a strange tire problem. I recently had the tires replaced on my 17" wheels. I ordered the tires online and had them installed by a local garage. Ever since then, I have been having what appears to be an intermittent leak from my left front tire. I'd typically fill the tire to 42psi in the morning and, by the next morning, discover it to be around 34-35psi. My commute each day is approximately 100 miles round-trip. This is very repeatable.
I have been back to the mechanic. He removed the wheel and very carefully examined the valve stem, rim-tire bead, sidewalls, and treads for any leaking using the soapy water method. We couldn't find anything.
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i got a screw in my tire with a slow leak. is this covered under warranty or should i have it done locally ?
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Ive been losing 20psi every week for the past month and I've finally had some time to fix it. I figured a leak that small would best be fixed with some slime. But can we use slime with tpms? If not, I guess i'll just have to open up the hole and plug it up.
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Just purchased a 2014 Elantra Limited in August 2014. Two months later, I started having a slow leak in my right rear tire. Was manageable at first, just thought maybe it was the weather getting colder, but finally had to take it in for service and had it looked at. They said I had a nail in the INSIDE SIDEWALL, and it was not covered under warranty, so I had to buy a new tire.
Within a month of buying the first new tire, my right FRONT tire started doing the same thing. Now, I'm having to fill it every day. Just scheduled another service appointment to have it looked at.
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So I found a screw in my rear tire. Soap tested it and found no leak. I got bold, pulled it out and found it to be a short wood screw. It is less than 1/4" long including the head. The head was resting on top of the thread so the hole wasn't very deep. Soap tested it again, no leak. What should I do? I do check my tire pressures weekly.
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I have a 2015 sonata SE with the stock 16 inch kumho summer tires. One of the tires just developed a leak, a slow one, after 5 days psi drops from 34 to 28. I am guessing I ran over a nail? or maybe valve leak? I don't recall driving over a pothole or anything that would otherwise damage the tire or rims.
Now suppose it is a nail, is it dangerous to keep it in there? will it deteriorate the rubber even more? Or is it one of those things i can leave in there, and just keep pumping air every few days?
Just wondering is it worth it to bring it to the tire shop and have the check for where the leak is and have them patch it.
I have 3750 miles on my tires, when should i get it rotated and/or replaced? How does one replace tire since there is a TPMS system? is it easy to do without dealership?
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I have a 2005 Saab 97x. It has auto-leveling air suspension. Recently, it seems to have developed a slow leak. When I drive all day, it is fine, but each morning when I go outside, the rear end is eight inches lower than it was when I parked it the night before. If I start up the car, the pump kicks in, and the rear end lifts to its proper level.
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I have a 2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee. One of the tire valves has a slow leak. I figured I could get a new valve. But, instead, the guy reminds me that the valve has the pressure sensor built in. He could put in a regular stem, but then the light on the instrument panel would never go out and I'm assuming I couldn't get through inspection like that.
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I will be receiving my 2010 Prius in a day or two. The road condition in Pakistan are not that favorable for the imported cars as they get hit from underneath alot. So I'll need to put 1" spacers on top of the rear suspension. that will require disassembling the shock absorbers. I just need to know how to disassemble the interior to gain access to the suspension nuts inside the car?
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A few days back, the low tire pressure light came on, and I checked that the LR tire was only about 20 psi while the other three were ok (>30). I inflated LR to ~35 psi and the others as well. The warning light disappeared.
Today while I was filling gas, I checked the LR, and it is already down to 30 psi (hot) whereas the other three were about the same.
Is this just a small leak/puncture or something else (valve stem, etc)?
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My rear passenger tire spins easily and makes noise. Here is the link to video....
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I almost bought a Gen 2 Prius, right before the introduction of the Gen 3. Then I waited a few years before I finally bought my Gen 3 Prius.
Don't let this out. But it's bothering me that I'm no longer at the top of the Standard Prius evolutionary chain.
The Gen 4 tribe is chipping rocks to make arrow heads... and using fire to cook meat and provide warmth...
Every time I go over a bump, the term Independent Rear Suspension pops in my head. An instrument panel that has multiple colors. I can only grunt and slobber and take what comfort I can from the pale light of the vacuum tube like glow of the Gen 3 instrument panel.
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I am in my new gti, owned for 6 days, waiting for a tow truck. I was driving down the freeway when it felt like I blew a tire. I pull over to the side of the road and none of the tires are flat. I look under the car and a piece of the rear suspension has come loose and jamed itself in front of the tire. Its a long peice of metal with a hook on the end.
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2010 chevrolet HHR clunking from front suspension, rough road, slow speeds. Is this typical of worn sway bar bushings or something more expensive?
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I have a leak underneath the rear right passenger door. I see some type of pan underneath there but don't know what it is. How to identify what this could be? This is 2011 Hatchback.
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I have a small leak of greenish fluid (appears to be coolant) coming from a silver/aluminum tube that runs the length of my van, just above the left rear transaxle. The leak seems to be in the tube, near a support that keeps the tubing flush against the undercarriage. It is a slow leak, but it is dripping onto the transaxle/transfer case, and is beginning to leave a small puddle on my driveway -- gets a little worse each time I drive. I haven't noticed much loss of coolant in the reservoir, so not sure what this is and how to fix it. I have a photo. I am thinking the tubing might be part of the heating system.
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So my rear air suspension just went out, I'm assuming that my air bags have a leak or a hole because the air compressor shut its self off. I'm thinking of just getting rid of the air system completely and just putting on some good shocks and leveling it out.
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So my strut mounts are shot and I wanted to add adjustable rear control arms to eliminate tire wear. So thinking of going with Bilstein HD's with the stock springs. Oh and BTW want to keep stock ride height since it is my daily. The only option I would consider for springs would be the euro version of the stock springs.
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My car's driver's side tire looks almost flat as one of my co-workers indicated first but the tire pressure light is NOT on. Should I worry about it and get it checked out?
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Rear steel brake line ruptured the other day (was pretty rusty). Despite being an idiot in regards to automotive repair (among many other things), I decided to give it a shot. I was able to get the damaged section off, went to Autozone with the broken piece, they matched it up, were nice enough to cut it and put on one larger fitting (because the two were different sizes) and flare it for me.
I was able to get the one side (at the T fitting) on OK. That was the "new" side, the one they flared at Autozone. Looks good. No leaks.
The stock side, at the passenger side caliper, leaks like crazy. Not out the threads, but out the hole through which the line passes. Know what I mean?
I'm having a hard time figuring out what's happening, because I'm not sure how this thing works. Does the line fit flush to something inside the connection at the caliper? Is it a bad flare?
It did not go in easy, but the new one was just as much trouble as the fitting that came out (stock?), so it must be right.
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