Prius (2010-12) :: Shuddering On Slow Acceleration
Aug 19, 2015
I have a 2010 Prius Pkg 5 with around 71xxx miles. I usually drive it like a regular car on eco mode and get around 38mpg average but recently I've changed my style of driving where I accelerate to the desired speed limit, let go of the gas, then reapply and keep the mpg meter in between the middle eco line and before the pwr band. I've been able to average 44mpg this way, which is great!
However, what I've begin to notice now is that say if I'm traveling at say around 45mph and let go of the gas and re-apply, the engine starts to shudder as if it's not getting enough gas. Why this is happening? I also need new tires (215/45/17) but that doesn't have anything to do with this. I've owned this car since 30xxx miles and haven't done anything other than put gas and change the oil at the dealerships. Could putting 87 octane gas with up to10% ethanol have any effect on this?
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I have a 2012 4x4 EB CC. In 6th gear, on the highway between 1200-1700 RPM's, during a slow acceleration, it feels like it is missing or shuddering. It is most pronounced going up a hill, and/or towing something. As soon as you get above about 1700, it goes away. Rig needs to be fully warmed up (not just the engine, but tranny/drivetrain). Needless to say, this is generally from about 52-65 mph, which is most highway (not freeway) driving I do. At times it's so bad my wife says it's time to get a Chebby.
Had it in about a year ago, couldn't duplicate it. Took it in this last week. Did the TSB on the plugs, and was told that would fix it. It didn't. Took it back in; they couldn't duplicate the issue. Rotated the tires hoping that might do something. Took the head service guy for a ride, and made it happen; it was very obvious then. It seems like the tachometer should bounce or shudder a bit when it's doing it, but nothing. It's going back in on Monday to see what they can do.
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I have a 4motion Automatic Tiguan 2011. It always had a tiny acceleration lag which I believe is quite normal. But lately, our Tiguan developed a that-doesn't-sound-right symptom. I feel the acceleration gap is much longer now, the engine makes quite a bit of noise but the car hesitates to go, and it gets a bit worse on uphills. It had a transfer box leak that was fixed 3-4 months ago.
It sounds like a transmission problem to me. Is there something wrong with the power train?
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I bought a 6,000 mile RX back in december and notice the vibration at slow acceleration.
It sounds like it's coming from the rear of the vehicle. It stops when it gets up to speed. I looked for anything lose and don't notice anything underneath.
I'm not too impressed with my local dealer so far to have them look at it. It sounds as if something is loose inside the muffler. It does not vibrate upon rapid acceleration.
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My 2010 Prius has starting to shudder and vibrate a bit on occasion when starting to accelerate as in stop and go traffic. It seems to happen mainly when the electric charge is low and the engine is on charging the battery and then I start to accelerate at the same time. It goes away once the speed in over 10mph. It happens occasionally, not every time. Never used to do this. Car has about 160k miles. Could it be a problem with the transmission device?
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I'm a new 2007 Prius owner, and I know that the Prius is no sports car, but this acceleration is very slow. When I'm speeding up to get on the highway, it really sounds like the gasoline engine is working hard to get up to that speed. I've had cars in the past where the emergency brake gets stuck, can that be a probable cause, or is this type of slow, strenuous acceleration normal for the little Prius?
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It's a hot 110 degree day in my 08, we have 5 in the family. Parked for three hours and on return starts up normally. Noticed low torque and slow acceleration on take off. Got on the freeway and slowly got up to 65MPH with obviously only the ICE working.
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My 2010 Prius since new, during cold Central IL weather, when I pull out onto the city street, it accelerates VERY SLOWLY no matter how I work the accelerator for 1-2 blocks. Then it takes off normally. When I forget to allow the extra time, it can be scary to have a car coming up fast and not be able to accelerate. I have left it at the dealership for 3 overnights now over 3 years. They went from "couldn't duplicate" to "there is a slight hesitation" that they attribute to normal shift from electric to gasoline. The next morning it took 2 blocks before it kicked in. My gas mileage has only been 35 this winter; I don't believe it has ever been consistently that low.
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Our 05 Monterey has this problem at around 45-50mph speeds. At this speed when we step on gas the we feel the vibrations of slow jerking like misfiring and some rough driving experience. This does not occur when cruising around 60/70mph. But if you have to brake and the speed drops below 45, then while accelerating the above problem is experienced. The car also does not accelerate fast enough. The car has around 110k on it. What kind of maintenance does this need? Is it very serious and need repairs right away? It was not a daily driver car, but now has become one (30 miles) for work.
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My prius 2010 (III) accelerate much slower than before. I started noticing this after I picking up my car from the airport. Parked the car there for a week. I have the dealer checked the computer but no error codes found. My car has almost 250k KM on it. I have not replaced the spark plugs the last three years. Could it be the spark plugs?
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I have a 2005 Prius with 110,000 mi. Sometimes when I accelerate the ICE (gas engine) simply spins (as if the clutch was slipping in a convention car) and there is little acceleration and the gas engine doesn't shut off when coasting or braking as it always has in the past. The battery screen shows it is not charging when this happens and is at 1 bar (purple). then sometimes the hybrid battery gauge will go from 1 bar to fully charged (green) in under a minute or 2 and then show discharging just as fast which isn't possible. It goes away after a restart sometimes but then happens again soon. Is it the TP sensor, Hybrid battery computer or ? I have gotten all kinds of codes including P0a93, P0a80, P1400, P040a.
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The prius stock battery is weak compared to my wifes Mercury Mariner battery. The Mariner acceleration on battery alone is excellent - she can get up to 30 mph in no time on just the battery. In my prius it has very slow acceleration at a dead stop while running only on battery. Is it possible to buy aftermarket (stronger) batteries for the prius so I can at least driver the car up to 30 mph only on battery?
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I have a 2005 with 165K on it. Just within the last 2 weeks, at start up, no matter what level the charge shows on the display, the HV battery will almost fully discharge and then come back up to full charge within a mile of driving. I just replaced the 12V battery thinking this could have been an issue, but it didn't change anything. The car never acted like this since I bought it in 05. When it drops to the discharge level, It running on ICE only, with the typical slower acceleration. What could be going on?
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1.8T ... Well, initially, engine light came on with a violent shake from the engine compartment. It was really really bad. I thought the engine mount just broke off or something...
First I looked at the coil packs and the spark plugs. The spark plugs were pretty old (I got the 02 Jetta 1.8T at ~140k miles for 1k, so no surprises). Spark plug on cylinder 2 was real bad, and that was the cylinder with the misfire code. Got a new set of spark plugs first. It worked a lot and the violent shuddering mostly went away.
The engine still idled erratically jumping and dipping at idle, even with the A/C off. So I replaced the coil pack on cylinder 2 after doing the coil pack switch test... After replacing the one coil pack, the engine idles like like it's new.
When I put the car in neutral and rev the engine to the redline, it revs nicely, very smooth. When I drive the car, when I accelerate reasonably slowly with the traffic, the car drives just fine. If I keep the car in lower gears and use light throttle to accelerate, it is smooth even past the rpm range where the turbo would be spooled up.
It is only when I dip into the throttle a bit more (no where near full throttle) to try to pass a car or accelerate just a bit harder, a little past ~2200rpm ish which is when the turbo starts spooling from the sound of it, it starts shuddering badly, and check engine light comes back on. The code shows misfire in cylinder 2.
My guess is there's something off with fuel system. My non-mechanic thought process is that maybe the injector is clogged and when it's light throttle, light acceleration, it injects little fuel and its ok, but when under heavier load / throttle, it tries to inject more fuel, but can't because it's clogged...
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I have a new to me 2005 F150 SuperCab Lariat 4x4 with 155,000 miles on it. About a week ago I replaced the from passenger hub assembly and half shaft (torn boot). When doing that, I noticed that the IWE actuator was not working right (would not compress evenly). When taking that off, there was a bunch of rust that came out of the vacuum line ports. It started moving freely after cleaning all of that out that I could (I will be replacing it soon). I assembled everything back together and all seemed OK mechanically.
I also scanned the truck and saw the code for a bad IWE solenoid so that is being replaced tonight. I also have not checked the drivers side yet.
So...now that I have done all of that, the truck started occasionally bucking/shuddering when I slow down from highway speed to about 30mph and lightly accelerate again. It does not do it every time though. There is no grinding/whining noises either. Could this be caused by the IWE system somehow? Maybe slowing losing vacuum and having one engage and the other disengaged?
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I purchased a 2001 Subaru Forester about 4 years ago. Within 48 hours of buying it from a dealer, the check engine light came on showing the PO420 code. The car was running fine without any problems and it was suggested to us by 2 independent mechanics that Subaru is notorious for throwing this code, so we didn't investigate it any farther besides doing a fuel system clean/flush that was offered to us by the dealer.
Lately, the car has started sort of shuddering during acceleration so we figure it's time to look into this more, but just trying to figure out where to start. From what I understand, this model has 2 catalytic converters and 2-3 O2 sensors. I've been reading as much as I can on the topic and watching videos trying to figure out our options and whether we should try replacing the O2 sensors first or just go for replacing the whole shebang. I know we cannot afford the pricey repair of it all right now so the car will have to sit for quite some time before we can do that; however, if we can figure out how to do it ourselves, we could get it done much sooner.
My questions are:What is the likelihood that this could still be an O2 sensor issue considering the shuddering when accelerating?
What other signs do I look for besides rattling in the cats to know they might be bad?
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Over the past few months I've noticed that my truck has a very intermittent shudder under mild acceleration. If I accelerated more during the shudder it seemed to disappear until I let off the peddle a little. When it happens the truck doesn't seem to be lacking power and the engine throws no codes. It happened again today right as I had stopped at a red light. I noticed that it was shuddering at idle too. I shut the truck off at the intersection and the shudder was gone once restarted. What it may be?
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My new to me 04 4.6 shuddered and misfired really bad last week, got couple misfire codes. I changed plugs which were really bad, like burnt out to .080, got a HEI ignition tester and got a healthy spark from all the coil packs. Drove it today and ran much better but still would shudder under acceleration when cold, wasn't as bad when warmed up but still noticeable. I thought if I got a spark with the tester that means the coil is ok? or is that not the last word in coil health. Or should I look somewhere else like injectors ? Haven't got any codes since plug change.
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2002 F350 7.3, MANUAL transmission ZF6.
Bought this truck used for hauling an excavator, and after fixing damn-near everything engine/turbo/and-cooling-system-related ---- it's finally seeing some use.
Just recently started hauling 12,000lb payloads. When I accelerate hard in Low gear, and then shift into 1st and accelerate hard again, I feel the whole truck shuddering. It's like a shimmy-shaking vibration all through the vehicle.
It doesn't happen in higher gears, only when the following conditions are met...
1) Starting from a dead stop
2) 12,000lb payload (heavy)
3) Accelerating hard (Low, First gear)
I would also like to add that I experienced this shuddering vibration very intensely when I put the transfer case in 4wd LOW (front manual hubs left unlocked) and towed 14,000lb up a steep hill in 1st, 2nd, and then 3rd transmission gears.
^^^ By leaving front hubs unlocked and transfer case in 4wd LOW, I was effectively lowering my final drive ratio even more for extra pulling power in 2wd hill-climbing. I don't do this often, only when absolutely necessary. ^^^
I must also add that I do have slightly taller rims/tires than OEM ford WITH the original ford gearing (3.73) so I'm more like 3.51 final drive ratio.
02 F350 7.3l ZF6
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I running into a bit of a strange tire problem. I recently had the tires replaced on my 17" wheels. I ordered the tires online and had them installed by a local garage. Ever since then, I have been having what appears to be an intermittent leak from my left front tire. I'd typically fill the tire to 42psi in the morning and, by the next morning, discover it to be around 34-35psi. My commute each day is approximately 100 miles round-trip. This is very repeatable.
I have been back to the mechanic. He removed the wheel and very carefully examined the valve stem, rim-tire bead, sidewalls, and treads for any leaking using the soapy water method. We couldn't find anything.
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While driving around 55mph, the check engine light came on and as soon as it came on the car begin to slow down until it came to a stop. There was no noise. This was the first time the check engine light has came on. My car has exactly 28,960 miles on it.
It took the service department at the dealership nearly 2 full days to charge the car and get it to stay on when you turn it on. It wouldn't initially stay on when they charged it. They originally called me this afternoon around 4:30pm and said they were trying to get a software update from Toyota. Around 4:55pm they called again to say that I needed to contact my insurance to file a claim because they think maybe something is wrong with my gas because they think they found some crystal-like substance in the tank. A gas-related issue is not covered under warranty.
I don't see how a gas-issue caused the car to completely shut down. I also don't see how this could be why they had trouble charging the battery.
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