Prius (2010-12) :: Rough Start - Engine Was Down A Cylinder
Nov 25, 2012
At 13,000 miles I've experienced the "rough start". Pulled it out of the garage to wash and wax it. I tried to put it in EV Mode but it wouldn't because the traction battery was down to only 3 bars, I assume. The engine only ran for 4-5 seconds than I shut it off, washed it and waxed it. Left it outside, temperature was about 55 degrees. When I went to start it about 2 hours later to run an errand it felt like the engine was down a cylinder and I shut it off immediately. I waited a minute and it restarted just fine. After reading the threads about the "rough start" I believe it happened because I didn't let it run through all the necessary cycles during the prior start up.
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I've been recently having the engine rattle/knock noise occasionally when I start the car. After my first oil change, I mentioned this to the dealer and demonstrated this to them while they documented the issue. I left my car at the dealership for investigation.
The following day, my dealer said they called Toyota and created a case about this. Toyota responded saying they heard about this and the possible root cause is the Motor Mounts on the Prius. They will be sending parts (date is still unknown) to fix the issue. :rockon:
I specifically asked if there is any damage to the engine and they said absolutely not and there is nothing wrong internally with the car. This also makes kinda sense because if I press the accelerator to the ground when it starts up, the knock doesn't appear. It also works if I put the car into D and drive away.
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I've been recently having the engine rattle/knock noise occasionally when I start the car. After my first oil change, I mentioned this to the dealer and demonstrated this to them while they documented the issue. I left my car at the dealership for investigation.
The following day, my dealer said they called Toyota and created a case about this. Toyota responded saying they heard about this and the possible root cause is the Motor Mounts on the Prius. They will be sending parts (date is still unknown) to fix the issue. :rockon:
I specifically asked if there is any damage to the engine and they said absolutely not and there is nothing wrong internally with the car. This also makes kinda sense because if I press the accelerator to the ground when it starts up, the knock doesn't appear. It also works if I put the car into D and drive away..
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So I had 1st rough cold start today on 2010 Prius with 72K. Wasn't too cold low 40s. The fix was to shut it down and then turn on again.
Engine sounded like it was working on 3 cylinders. It is probably ignition or perhaps valve train issue.. with ignition being prime suspect. If it happens again I'll pull and check plugs.
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I plugged in a OBD2 reader and its show misfire on Cylinder 1.
I haven't driven the car for 4 days, and when i started the engine this morning, the engine show knocking when the regular engine kicks in (rough). i will be bringing the car in tomorrow (dealer). my car is a 2011 with 16k miles, strange for this to happen so early in age.
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The first part of diagnosis is to understand how frequently this happens and hopefully find any reproducible patterns. This is an open poll running to the end of October.
ZVW30 - 1.8L Prius...
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I have driven 25,xxx miles on my 2010 Prius. Three times during the last thousand miles I have experienced very loud and scary engine noises during start up. The car had sat for at least ten hours outside in 20-30 degree weather.
I took the car into the dealership for an oil change and my service advisor told me that Toyota was aware of the problem and the noise was not coming from the engine- but a device that mates the ICE with the electric engine. He told me that although it was a loud and dangerous sounding noise, it was not something that would harm my motor. I asked that the noise be logged into my service record.
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I have noticed in certain circumstances that the engine seems to be in a resonance where it is shaking noticeably and getting worse not better. It happens in two situations.
One is after gliding and slowing to make a turn (with the engine off). As I am exiting the turn and hit the gas the car shakes a lot for about a second or two, then smooths out.
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I have a 2003 Camry 4 cylinder. The problem we are having is the car has a slight rough idle only at cold start. After she warms up she is smooth as glass. What would cause this?
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I haven't started my passat for the winter and I finally did today. It was ruff start/idling and I pretty sure it was misfiring on one of the cylinders. I turned off the car and start it again...same thing, ruff idling like 3 cylinders were running. I waited five 5 mins and started it again, then it was a normal start on all cylinders. But the engine light came on, even though it started properly. I know I have to clear the code to get rid of the engine light. But I want to avoid any future misfiring. So I'm thinking new spark plug/coil overs.
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I bought a '99 MX-5 in the fall with 100000 miles on it. Most of the time it runs fine. But about every two weeks when I go to start it it will run real rough like its only hitting on three cylinders then will eventually smooth out after anywhere from 5 seconds to 2 minutes. But today it wouldn't start at all. Finally started just fine after trying for 15 min. My mechanic changed the EGR valve but it hasn't worked. The check engine lite stays on all the time but when it starts rough the lite will flash.
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Mileage 192k. Signs...stumbling/rough engine startup for first time of the day and anytime the engine sits for a few minutes before turning on again (battery charging/speed high enough for engine to start, etc).
2010 Prius engine start stumble - YouTube
Started out with no code, then check engine light started coming on. P0301, misfire cylinder #1. Sparkplugs were replaced, and coil pack for #1 switched with known good one. EGR tube also cleaned of carbon.
Stumbling/roughness has been getting worse, about an inch of coolant used per week of driving. No oil in the coolant, and no coolant in the oil (no milkshake or anything like that).
Dirty fuel injectors were suspected, but no improvement after using Techron. Finally, a boroscope was used to inspect the cylinders through the sparkplug holes, and a very slow leak was found in cylinder #1. Since liquid cannot be compressed, during the compression cycle significant misfiring occurs.
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I've got a 2009 Tiguan with 65k miles on it. A few weeks ago I noticed some issues with running rough during a cold start. I only noticed because the engine would vibrate considerably more than usually for the first few minutes of operation, and would idle at around 1050-1100rpm instead of the usual 750rpm. After warm up, things were fine. Suddenly the issue got bad real fast - wife was out and the MIL light came on, EPC light came on, and the car was running extremely rough. We managed to drive it home (2 miles) doing under 20 the whole time on side streets. Once I hooked it up to my OBD reader, I was seeing cylinder misfire codes on all four cylinders.. P0300, P0301..P0304, all five codes simultaneously.
Since the car was due for an oil change and hit 65k miles recently, I decided to throw new plugs in there to see if that would work. It did, at first.. A day or two it ran completely fine, no rough starts, no misfires, I thought I had solved the problem. The old plugs had some deposits on them and were original, so I thought I was in the clear. Two days later, same thing happened again.. EPC light, barely running and misfires on all four cylinders..
I read up some online and decided to order new ignition coils. Took a few days, but I got four new coils and threw them in. Again, problem solved it seemed. No more EPC light, misfire codes didn't come back and no more rough starts. I drove a good 40 miles with no problems at various speeds, but started noticing some misfires during acceleration (slightly rough acceleration, almost feels like a back and forth rocking motion, very slight). Sure enough, after a cold start I'm seeing the engine run a bit rough again with misfires. This time, only P0304 (misfire on cylinder 4) is thrown, and it only shows up as a "pending code" (engine light flashes for a few moments during start, but does not stay on).
I checked my connections, swapped the plugs and coils in what I thought were cylinders 3 and 4 (closer to the driver side), nothing. I swapped what I think are cylinder 1 and 2 (passenger side) just to be sure, but still nothing. At this point I'm pretty lost. I know enough to be dangerous with a carbureted engine, but am lacking in knowledge when it comes to a fuel injected turbo charged VW engine. It seems to be cylinder 4 misfiring consistently at this point according to the OBD reader.
Also of note.. I had some misfire problems last year, and had my intake manifold replaced as part of a recall (also had carbon deposits removed at the same time). Can a carbon build up occur this fast? Can it be the injectors?
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I'm having an issue with a 2008 Passat 2.0T. Engine ran rough one day and check engine light came on! I get the VagCom out, scan the ECU and get misfire on cylinder #2 and #4. Car has 109 000km. Plugs were never changed so I order some new OE Bosch platinum iridium plugs. Go for test drive after having change the plugs and I still get misfire on both cylinder number 2 and 4.
I know coil on plug are prone to be weak on those engines so I go ahead and order 4 new coils which are pretty low cost which is good. Once install on the car I go again on a test drive. car ran really smooth and no check engine light came on. I said fine! I fixed the problem only to discover the day after that the CEL decide to come back on I scan again and this time only get misfire on cyl #2 with fault frequency of 39.
I suspect my injector to be bad but before I decide to remove the intake manifold and spend another 2-300$ in parts. Any way to test my injector with VagCom in order to see if that really is my problem. Also heard the PCV could be a problem but i hardly doubt it would throw a fauly code on just one cylinder.
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2000 5.4l lariat. My cylinder 1 for 2 years has been poping p0301code and has a rough idle at start for about 30 seconds. It also has a little white smoke for that 30seconds. new cop, new spark plug, new spark plug pig tail, swapped injectors to different cylinders multiple times to change code no luck. Compression dry and wet are at 200 and all cylinders are within10%. I had a dorman intake manifold installed 4 years ago and the code came a few years after. Im thinking intake manifold gasket is bad between cylinder 1 and the heater bypass tube allowing coolant to slowly leak down into the cylinder causing my rough start. I looked through the injector hole but could not tell. With all the info I have given is there any other places or things that it could be before I do a gasket replacement or is all my tests leading to the intake manifold gasket...
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I changed timing belt and water pump DIY back in Oct 2015. Ever since then, I get rough idling (car kind of vibrate and engine kind of struggling) after warm start (no problem with cold starts, it did stall once after the warm start).
Two days ago, I got a P0000 code, I thought it was due to low oil (happened before, I topped off oil 2500 miles ago), so I changed oil and filter. No problem yesterday, but today on my way to work. I got the p0000 code again.
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I started the car the other day and it was running really rough and engine light was on. I started pulling the spark plug wires and pulling #3 didn't make any difference in terms of decreasing performance where the others all did.
I've replaced the plug, and distributor cap. I've also confirmed with the plug out of the block that it is firing.
I'm not sure at this point what to look at next. This happened overnight, not gradually over time, and apart from running rough the engine isn't making any noises which based on sound, and how fast it happened doesn't make me think its a scoring/compression issue.
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Okay so last year i bought a 2000 celica gt manual with 50,000 miles, and currently has 67,000 miles. A few days ago I started to notice the engine was running rough and then about 10 miles later the chack engine light came on. I promptly went to the auto parts store to read the code. I was informed I have a cylinder 1 misfire. Naturally i replaced the spark plugs with NGK iridium, reset and rechecked engine code. Same code. Next i swapped the coils from 1 and 2, reset and rechecked. same code. I then swapped fuel injectors from 1 and 3, rest and rechecked. Same code. So now i am a bit stumped.
Only faulty equipment prior to this incident would be 2nd gear synchronizer. Only applicable above 5,800 RPM.
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I own a 2007 prius, it has about 320,000 miles. It has recently been diagnosed with a #2 and #4 cylinder misfire. The car severely idles rough, but when getting in the gas it goes away. I have replaced the spark plugs, the old plugs were very white(lean), replaced fuel injectors, used fuel injector cleaner. I've sprayed carb cleaner around the intake to see if I might a leak--no leak. The motor uses about a quart of oil every 1,000 miles since about 100,000 miles. I'm just guessing, could it simply be low compression causing this? I pulled the new spark plugs after about 5,000 miles and they where white also.
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So I did a cylinder contribution test and a buzz test today. It buzzed evenly on all cylinders. Then when I did the cylinder contribution test I got these codes,
P0269 cylinder 4 contribution balance
P0284 cylinder 8 contribution balance
It has been running a little rough lately but not smoking. Seems to be chattering more than it was too. I did the FRx, HPx, CVDs and banjo bolt mods about 500 miles ago and it was a lot quieter and ran better. Just recently started running rough and a little louder. Could these injectors be bad? I did new injector O-rings about 800 miles ago. I ran the test with the engine cold and with it warmed up and got the codes both times. It seems to have a little bit of throttle flutter when holding it about half throttle while driving.
As far as I know the injectors haven't been replaced and they have 186K miles on them.
2001 F-350 Lariat Dually Supercab 6-spd manual 7.3 Powerstroke Turbo Diesel 186,000 miles....
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I bought a 2005 Camry LE 2.4 4 cylinder. It was rather loud while driving, but especially while accelerating. It had error code P0420 from the beginning. It had a completely broken torque strut which I eventually replaced. Afterward since it toned down the kicking from the engine, I was able to notice that I could feel and hear the engine kicking like a cylinder misfiring. The computer gave me error code P0353 (Ignition Coil C Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction) consistently, and only a couple of times gave me error code P0500 (Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction) which went away.
I swapped the ignition coil and spark plugs around but the error code would persist on the same cylinder. The spark plugs didn't look particularly worn but I'm not experienced on what bad plugs look like. The codes persisted still, but later on P0353 went away, and the obvious kicking stopped but it still ran with a lack of power and hesitating on acceleration along with a strong smell of fuel in the exhaust. I measured the resistance of each fuel injector and all measured the same. I removed and flushed each of them with cleaner, but same situation.
What do you think? I don't get the bad cylinder code anymore but something is clearly wrong. Bad fuel injector? Bad wiring harness? Bad compression or head gasket (maybe from the movement of the engine while the torque strut was bad)? Hopefully not the computer... And could the loud noise be related to this problem or is that probably just a cracked exhaust from when the torque strut was allowing engine movement?
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