So I had 1st rough cold start today on 2010 Prius with 72K. Wasn't too cold low 40s. The fix was to shut it down and then turn on again.
Engine sounded like it was working on 3 cylinders. It is probably ignition or perhaps valve train issue.. with ignition being prime suspect. If it happens again I'll pull and check plugs.
At 13,000 miles I've experienced the "rough start". Pulled it out of the garage to wash and wax it. I tried to put it in EV Mode but it wouldn't because the traction battery was down to only 3 bars, I assume. The engine only ran for 4-5 seconds than I shut it off, washed it and waxed it. Left it outside, temperature was about 55 degrees. When I went to start it about 2 hours later to run an errand it felt like the engine was down a cylinder and I shut it off immediately. I waited a minute and it restarted just fine. After reading the threads about the "rough start" I believe it happened because I didn't let it run through all the necessary cycles during the prior start up.
View 7 RepliesI've been recently having the engine rattle/knock noise occasionally when I start the car. After my first oil change, I mentioned this to the dealer and demonstrated this to them while they documented the issue. I left my car at the dealership for investigation.
The following day, my dealer said they called Toyota and created a case about this. Toyota responded saying they heard about this and the possible root cause is the Motor Mounts on the Prius. They will be sending parts (date is still unknown) to fix the issue. :rockon:
I specifically asked if there is any damage to the engine and they said absolutely not and there is nothing wrong internally with the car. This also makes kinda sense because if I press the accelerator to the ground when it starts up, the knock doesn't appear. It also works if I put the car into D and drive away.
I've been recently having the engine rattle/knock noise occasionally when I start the car. After my first oil change, I mentioned this to the dealer and demonstrated this to them while they documented the issue. I left my car at the dealership for investigation.
The following day, my dealer said they called Toyota and created a case about this. Toyota responded saying they heard about this and the possible root cause is the Motor Mounts on the Prius. They will be sending parts (date is still unknown) to fix the issue. :rockon:
I specifically asked if there is any damage to the engine and they said absolutely not and there is nothing wrong internally with the car. This also makes kinda sense because if I press the accelerator to the ground when it starts up, the knock doesn't appear. It also works if I put the car into D and drive away..
My Prius is having a problem during cold start. When I bought it, the cold start was very energetic with a high rev tone then gradually regulate to a normal pace and petrol engine shuts down. But about 4 months I noticed the tone of the cold start has changed, it starts with a weak and low engine rev and delays to turn off the engine. Today it took about 10 mins to power off the engine. Got 2 months I changed my 12V battery (Bosch now), thought that these symptoms was to notify that battery is failing. But the problem is persistent despite I put new battery..
View 7 RepliesMy 06 Sonata runs very rough at start up when the car is cold. It appears that it is missing on several cylinders. This last for about 15 seconds and then the car runs fine. What could be causing this problem? No check engine light.
View 10 RepliesI've had my 2010 Prius for about 3.5 years now and this is the 3rd maybe 4th time happening. This morning I started the car and the car started to vibrate/rattle from the engine bay. It almost sounded like the wheel of fortune being spun but louder.
View 5 RepliesWife has a 2011 Elantra 1.8L... 5 years old and only has 24,000 kms on it.
Barely uses it, mostly for short trips, keeps it parked outside in the elements.
I've noticed the fuel mileage kinda sucks and has a rough cold start and performance lags while driving.
is it worth replacing the spark plugs? Always seems to fix these kind issues with my past cars.
Even with the low kms I assume they might need replacing since its 5 years old?
Replaced o-rings, injector cups, glow plugs and UVCH with all motorcraft parts 2 years ago and the ICP, IPR and resealed the HPOP last year. I use rotella 15W-40 oil. It has been hard to start when it is cold and runs rough with little power until warm for a few seasons now when it is cold outside. There are no fault codes or issues otherwise with the mostly stock truck. A buzz test when the engine is cold only #6 sounds strong and #8 isn't quite as bad as the others but the others are hardly audible.
Cause:
1) Can 6 to 7 injectors really go bad in 165k miles? If it is injectors I believe the Alliant look to be the way to go with type ADs?
2) Since it is like flipping a switch and the number of injectors effected is it possibly the 0.1% of the time it is the IDM when there is a miss and no SES. From my searching and swampdiesel if there is a miss and no SES it is 99.9% it is not the IDM or harness since it actively checks continuity.
When I start my car it seems like some of the cylinders are missing for like 5 seconds then runs fine. Sometimes its quite violent and this morning it stalled the first time I tried. The colder it is outside the worse this becomes.
The car is still under warranty, but you have to wait a week to get the car into the dealer here and a battery wouldn't be covered anyway. Here is what I have so far.
Bad battery : The car has 45k miles on it and as far as I know the battery is stock. Also, when I did the 40k service I seem to remember something about the battery on the invoice (I will look), but I was too busy worrying about the bald tires. I do generally leave my ipod plugged into my car stereo (which charges it) over night, so that is putting a drain on it. I am going to take it out of the car tonight and see if that makes a difference. I suppose I could take the battery to O'Reilly's and have them test it, but it seems like it would be in their best interest to lie.
Coolant temperature sensor : The car was recently in the shop and they said they found a small coolant leak and fixed it, maybe the sensor became damaged? Most reports I see about this suggest the car runs rough for much longer than mine and must be fed gas.
Picked up a super nice 03' as is with a no start. It cranks over nice and smooth, sounds like it has proper compression, and has proper fuel pressure. Tried spraying either in it and it will almost catch.
Tried putting a known good coil pack on it, no dice. Usually when other engine slip timing chains, it will crank rough, like a few cylinders are zero. This is not the case.
Just noticed a rattle above my head when temp drops below 60, only on certain rough, washboard surfaces. I am running 44/42 PSI, so I know what I am getting into. I have no intention to fix the rattle other than cranking up the radio. I know when cars age, they eventually develop more rattles. Question is, when left alone, do rattles do any long term harm? As in loosing something else and create a new rattle, or get worse.
View 2 Replies1999 F350 & lately if I don't plug it in even if it's like 40 out for like the first 30 sec sounds like its only running on 4 cylinders than it'll just even out & alls good. thinking glow plugs here. I did replace them last fall unfortunately with the cheep ones that I been now reading bad things about.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 jeep liberty 3.7L with 60,000 miles on it. The engine light when on 2 weeks ago and gave a p300 code. the dealership replaced coil and plugs, I believe. Then would start rough when cold, the engine light would blink for about 10 seconds then remain on. the car runs just fine except when cold....first minute of starting it. they checked for head gasket problem, and cant seem to find the problem. They told me that this could just be something that happens. I don't believe that. I have no loss of power, no hesitation. Runs fine 99% of the time
View 19 RepliesThe only time I want to use my remote starter is when the temperature is below 10 degrees F. We've been having a nice cold winter where I live and have had more than a few morning of 10 to 20 degrees below zero. I let the car warm up for a few minutes to get warmish oil circulating before driving away.
The problem I've been having is when I try to use my remote starter, the engine will turn over for maybe a half second and then nothing. I've tried hitting the buttons again, and it does the same thing. Then I walk out and get in the car and it always fires right up.
When the temperature is warmer I've used the remote starter and had no problems. It seems to be just a cold weather issue.
I have a 2003 F250 7.3L. I put new injectors in my truck four months ago and all of a sudden, I have 2 cylinders not working correctly, making the truck to run really badly. I sent the 2 injectors from the bad cylinders back for warranty and they replaced both of the injectors but nothing was wrong. I put them in and the truck still runs badly. I have a new fuel filter, new ICP, new CPS and glow plug relay. I cannot drive the truck, it smokes white at idle. I can unplug each injector at a time and cyclinder 5 does not change how the truck runs
View 14 RepliesTruck has been doing this and now getting worse. 06 f250 6.0 147,000 miles. Runs like crap when you first start and truck has trouble shifting when I first take off in the mornings until it warms up then it idles fine and runs like a champ no problem shifting. Not in a cold climate 40F at the least. Not trying to take it to the dealer and get raped. Been doing research some people say get the inductive heat flash, some say needs new injectors, some say could have a bad gasket on the injector idk. I'm trying trying to get it resolved....
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 Chrysler Sebring Convertible 2.7L engine. Replaced water pump and spark plugs. We triple checked the alignment on the chain and are sure the timing is fine. Car started right up. Now running rough idle and engine light comes on. Codes read misfires on 1, 3, and 5 cylinders.
View 8 RepliesThis is something I have noticed the last 3 months. I have had the car 2 years. When I first start it and it is completely cold, it will only run like EV mode (HV battery powering the car) even though the gas engine is merrily running and it is not in EV. We live part way down a small hill, so now I often discharge the HV battery to a point low enough to trigger the recharge function which keeps the gas engine running forever. It does this morning or afternoon, if it has been sitting a few hours and is completely cooled off. It did it in Sept. at 65F and it does it now at 35F.
View 12 RepliesWhy I'm suddenly having trouble starting my 2010 Prius when cold? I depress the brake and push the start button, but lately, sometimes the car doesn't start. It will start as if I didn't have my foot on the brake and the dash will light up. To get it to start fully I have to depress the brake and hold the start button down for 10-20 seconds. Then it starts.
View 9 RepliesHere is the link : [URL] .....
Someone with a similar problem said it was a timing chain cover issue and someone else a cam shaft issue. It's a 2012 elantra limited 1.8L with 55000km the short block was replaced around 45000km.