Started my 2010 Prius the other day and the traction control, brake light, abs light and a yellow Astrix light came on and wouldn't go off. The car drives and handles just fine, brakes feel normal. I have tried resetting the lights with a trick with a paper clip someone else posted, but it didn't work for me.
View 7 RepliesI had not driven the Prius in a few weeks, and even then, that was for less than five miles, and had the low tire pressure indicator come on late last week when the temperatures cooled down, which I fully expected given my opportunities with the Toyota Dealer properly inflating tires. We were away for another week and returned today and I decided to check the tires and add air, and in addition to the tire pressure indicator, the ABS, Traction Control, and Brake Indicator lights were on. As soon as I filled all the tires to the specified PSI, that indicator disappeared but the brake related ones all stayed on.
View 10 RepliesMy 2010 Subaru Outback recently surprised the hell out of me by simultaneously turning on the brake warning light, the traction control light, the check engine light and (just for a bonus!) disabled my cruise control while flashing the cruise control light. I pulled over, quickly surmising that all of those systems could not have failed at 70 MPH without instantaneous death to either me or the vehicle. Both apparently still being alive, I tried turning the car on an off to reset the lights. No go. Subaru was not going to miss this chance to get me to the dealership! (who I had avoided to this point!) As I was far away from home and the car being very healthy, it seemed, I decided to drive on. I proceeded to put a couple of hundred more miles on the car before I got back to town.
My car had 39,000 miles on it, 3,000 miles beyond the warranty end. I learned that I have an error code of P0171, "Fuel Trim Malfunction (Air/Fuel too lean)". So I guess I'm wondering about a few things...why would this sensor set off every light on my dashboard and disable my cruise control? Seems a bit overblown for running a bit lean. My gut tells me Subaru has a sensor/software problem they are not owning up to. I'm a big fan of conspiracy theories and this really smells like one...
Second, jeez, I'm only 3K miles over warranty, don't you think they'd cut me some slack. I mean I love my Subaru, or did anyway, until this happened. Now it's just another POS car that breaks for no apparent reason...
This morning after starting my accent the abs, e-brake, and traction lights all came on. What could this indicate, and should I not drive the car till it is fixed? I checked brake fluid levels for the of it, and they were fine.
View 6 Replies2010 Prius 98,000 miles - No Accidents
I was driving on the freeway cruising about 65-70mph.. Not using the brake at all. All the sudden the car starts beeping loudly with the Brake light going off, traction control light going off, and the ((!)) light as well. So I wanted to pull over to the side and realized my brakes were not working . It was the same as if you're trying to brake the car when the car is turned off. I slowly pulled off the freeway. Tried to reset the ECU, battery, everything, thinking at the traction control is just going crazy.
So four lanes, divided, with a left turn lane, five lanes at the intersection. I'm down ~15 mph, maximum turn speed and one car is just clearing intersection and and +100 yards from next approaching slug of traffic. Keeping the speed, I make the left turn confident no problem then halfway through turn:
feels like a soft tuck
traction light flashes
already to straighten out
everything normal
This is the second time I've seen this in a year. Pavement dry, 48 hours since last rain; ~8:00 AM so rush hour is on. Before doing some parking lot tests, any clue about how to replicate?
My dashcam SD card did not play.
Evertime I turn left the brake light, traction control and stability control lights come on and the car starts dinging. Mechanic says it could be front wheel bearings because they are tied to the ABS system??? But I have been seeing alot about wheel speed sensors?
Second, everytime I brake suddenly, a cloud of smoke comes from the front end and there is a burning oil smell. The oil is fine and no leaks. Again mechanic says it could be a cracked CV boot throwing grease?
Lastly everytime I put in reverse or when I lightly put pressure on the brakes when driving I get this noise like a humming (errrrrrr) noise. Its not the grinding/squealing noise you would get when brake pads needs replaced. I only have 60k miles on this.
My college son's 2014 Charger V6 has developed three issues since he purchased it used in late May. The cruise control has stopped working and the anti lock brake and traction control lights are constantly on. Any possible cause?
View 15 RepliesFor the past week I have had the steering wheel and traction control warning lights come on after I start the car after sitting for a long period of time. Once I drive the car a few feet the warning lights disappear. The model is a 2007 2.0T with 72,000 miles. What are next steps or should I head to the dealership? I'm out of factory warranty but have a third party warranty that expires at 75,000 miles.
View 1 RepliesThis has happened to me twice now, 2 weeks between occurrences:
Driving to work, about 10 minutes into the trip - traction control light comes on, "Reduced engine power" message appears on DIC, and check engine light comes on.
The car is an '08 Prix, no charger, with 51K on it. This is actually the first trouble I've had with the car since it left the dealer lot.
I pull over, turn car off. Turn back on - traction light goes out, and engine is running at full power. The check engine light remains on for about 5 starts/stops then goes away.
I haven't had the engine scanned yet. The only thread here I could find recommended replacing the throttle body. The person decided to clean the throttle body, and that was the last post.
I was thinking of removing the individual electronic components from the TB and cleaning them and the area around them in the TB. (I have the sensor-safe cleaner for TB's).
I don't think this error condition would be a warranty issue, but I'm not sure. It's a MAJOR hassle for me to get the car to the dealer.
I have 2002 Ford Taurus SES. Currently the brake light is on and the ABS and traction control are not working. The brakes have been checked and are ok and it has been hooked up to a code reader and no codes come up. Occasionally the light will go off and the abs and traction control work for awhile.
View 1 RepliesI got in the car (2010 Prius IV, 170k miles) this a.m and the brake, ABS, & stability/traction control lights all just lit-up. Can run & drives just fine.
View 19 RepliesSo a little while ago I had my parking brake, ABS, and traction control lights all come on at the same time. There was no change in performance, but they have been on ever since. I looked in to it online and a bunch of people said this was a common problem with damaged tone rings, so I checked them out, but they were fine (as far as I could tell anyway). So I scanned the vehicle using a buddy of mine's Snap On scanner, and it came up with the following code:
B1342 Faulty Control Module
We tried to check the fault code through Mitchell OnDemand but it said that this code was for a faulty Parking Assist Module. I don't have any kind of Parking Assist system on this vehicle however. I looked around a little more and this seems to be a pretty generic code for brake system faults with Fords. Also, if the control module for the ABS is the same one that handles traction control?
I am the owner of a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS. It has approx 35,700mi to date.
Ive been apart of the forum for quite some time now. Ive been having an issue for a couple of months now with my Traction Control light being stuck on and intermittent flashes of the Brake light (as if parking brake were engaged) and ABS Lights simultaneously.
I'VE ALREADY HAD THE BRAKE SWITCH FAILURE RECALL PERFORMED. When i was having problems shifting and with my cruise control.
This all started this past winter during a bad snow and ice storm we had here in St. Louis, MO. I was on my way to work and the roads were slick with ice and snow. I was traveling no more than 15-20mph on a freeway and as i was approaching a light it suddenly changed to red and i had to slam on my brakes and make a swift right turn in order to avoid hitting anyone in the intersection. Ever since that moment, I've been stuck with these lights on in my dash.
Let me start this by saying I've done a couple of mods to my car. Hids, aftermarket remote start (professionally), aftermarket stereo, amps, new speakers all around, led lights inside, cup holder mod and led tail lights. That's all of my electrical mods.
Ive taken my car to the dealer several times for this problem. They tried hooking my car up to their code machine and they said the car wasn't communicating with machine and it was the first time they've seen something like this before.
They tried pinning the problem on my alarm and stereo. (as they usually do) They said it was a corroded ground. The dealer cleaned that up and said that fixed the problem. In actuality, it didnt. The issue still was there.
Ive had both the alarm and stereo removed to see if this were the cause my issues. NO...the problem still exists.
Here's a pic ....
I have a 2008 with 81000 miles and new tires. On clean dry roads when I hit 60 mph the traction control warning light comes on and car will barely accelerate. Slow down a couple mph and car runs fine. What is wrong?
View 5 RepliesMy 07 Prius recently started to get a traction control warning and loss of power on smooth, dry roads at 65mph on an interstate highway..... There was enough space between us and the 80,000 lb truck behind us..... As we slowed the warning abated and power was restored. BUT, the car will not maintain 65 mph without this recurring. Toyota has not been useful. Nothing stored on the pcu indicates what may have occurred.
View 2 RepliesMy 2012 F250 6.7 once again (third time in 2k miles) got stuck in park with no brake lights or traction control. I found that removing the shroud from the steering wheel allowed me to manually activate the solenoid and get into gear but could only drive in manual shift mode.
Something is causing the brake switch fuse to blow. When I replace the fuse all is well for maybe 1k miles then it happens again! After the second time I replaced the brake switch thinking it was the cause but no deal. It happened a third time. The dealer who fixed it the first time could not find the cause.
This is frustrating and downright dangerous! What in the circuit could be causing the short?
2010 camry. Check engine and traction control lights came on at 48K. Took to dealer for diagnostic scan. Came up w/ code p0037. Told me it was bank 1 position 1 oxygen sensor.....$455 to replace. I want to do it myself but am having trouble finding the part. Where exactly the location on vehicle this is? Will I run into trouble getting at this? Its a 2.5 L.
View 1 Replies2010 SE 4 cylinder. 62k miles.
Having an intermittent issue with ABS, Traction and BRAKE lights all illuminating. I have to shut off car and re-start to get them off. Car runs and drives fine while this is happening.
No CEL.
I have replaced the Traction battery AND the 12volt battery. I clear all codes by disconnecting the 12 volt battery for a short period of time. I reconnect 12v battery and no warning lights. I drive for 10 miles and RED TRIANGLE, Check Engine and the Brake lights also come on the dash. 2006 Prius 130K miles.
View 16 RepliesI need to troubleshoot a problem with the ABS & Traction control lights on a 2006 Mountaineer Premium with 126,000 miles. During the year that I have owned the vehicle this problem has occurred every time it is driven on a long trip. The previous owner never drove on longer trips so has no experience with this problem.
When you drive the vehicle around town and on shorter trips (less than an hour) there are no indications of problems. The ABS and Traction control lights come on as part of the start-up check cycle and go off. The ABS and Traction control work in low traction conditions and the lights function correctly when either one is activated.
The unusual behavior occurs on trips longer than an hour. Typically after about 1 1/2 hours at highway speed both the ABS and Traction control lights come on as well as the Wrench symbol in the message panel. It you hit "Reset" the Wrench symbol goes away but the ABS and Traction control lights stay on. The brakes work normally. I do not know if the ABS and Traction Control will work. I have never been in a low traction condition when the lights are on.
Both lights stay on until you stop the vehicle and turn off the ignition. When you restart the vehicle the ABS light is on but not the Traction Control light. When you start to drive the vehicle the ABS light goes out immediately.
After about 1/2 hour of driving both lights come on and the Wrench symbol displays in the message panel. Whenever you stop the vehicle and restart during the trip the cycle repeats. The day after you finish the long trip everything is normal for driving around town and on short trips.