Prius (2010-12) :: Rear Hub / Bearing Assembly Replacement
Nov 27, 2012
I'm replacing the rear hub/bearing assembly on my 2010 Prius. It seems pretty straight forward. What is the correct torque for the 4 bolts holding it on? Also what is the correct torque for the 2 bolts holding the rear brake caliper on?
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I have 2012 Impala and hit a pot hole blowing out the left front tire but rim was not damaged, replaced the tire. Now the shop tells me that the wheel bearing has been damaged and the hub/bearing assembly needs to be replaced. I've never seen this happen. Is it possible that the bearing got damaged?
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It's time to replace my axle bearing and hub assembly. Looking at RiffRaff site they show 3 different models. Early 99, fine course and course. I think I have the course thread but just want to make sure before I order. My truck is a L99 and I don't have the abs sensor. Looks like all 3 have come with the abs sensor. Do I simply not connect the sensor? Here's a pic of what i have. Course thread?
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Need to replace at least one rear wheel bearing, but still not positive which side. Getting a whump whump whump and slight howl at speed that seems to be worse going around right turns, so will change the drivers side first.
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My passsenger side rear wheel hub assembly needs replacing and I am having trouble removing it. I have removed the rotor, the 4 bolts holding the hub, applied generous amounts of pb blaster, and struck it vigorously with a 3 pound hammer. Also, how to release the abs connection.
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I have removed knuckle assembly and pressed out bearing hub assembly, I have the new bearing hub assembly..... I live in Iowa so there is corrosion on the knuckle assembly - I have removed enough that the new bearing assembly will go in....
My question/concern : With the corrosion removed the surface of the knuckle where the bearing will seat is not uniform all the way around. The bearing hub assembly will go in and will require pressure to do so but will the bearing last? I can buy a steering knuckle but do not want to if I don't have to.
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I need to replace the hub assembly on the rear drivers side of my 2005 Avalon touring. I just need to know if the hub is pressed into the bracket that it is bolted to with 4 bolts or not. I would prefer it be the latter but I just want to know what to do with it. I took it all apart but decided to put it back together once a saw the back end of it seemed to be pressed into the bracket. Maybe it's not, I just need to know how to get the original off and get the new one on.
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At 46,400 miles of gentle driving, my left wheel bearing failed on my 2010 Prius, which was not covered by warranty because it is not 'drive train'. I was told there was nothing I did or could have done to cause this. I have had 4 Toyotas, two with over 200,000 miles, and never had this serious a repair (that wasn't my fault!). Am I being unreasonable to think this is unusual? I'm wondering if this car is going to continue to be a problem.
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My rear passenger tire spins easily and makes noise. Here is the link to video....
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I'm a not-terribly-handy (but not totally inept!) apartment dweller with few tools, but it looks like I'm going to need to go buy a deep socket. I park on the street and came out the other day to find my driver side tail light pretty smashed up. I found one for $75 at the junk yard and believe I can swap them myself. I found a YouTube video that shows how to do it on a Gen II. On the Gen II, the nuts holding the assembly in place are 10mm. Definitely not the case on the Gen I. They're much smaller. I have a set of sockets but nothing deep enough to get me past those long bolts, but I'd rather not buy a whole set, since I'm not even sure whether I'd need metric or standard.
what size nuts hold the tail light assembly in place on a 2001 Prius?
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The drivers side headlight assembly on my 2008 Prius has moisture in it. I have 52,000 miles on the car, so I do not think it is covered under warranty. What / how can you replace the headlight assembly?
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Looking for a video, pictures, or steps that are in depth on how to replace my rear seals and bearings? They are leaking very badly and would like to see some other ways to get it done.
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I have a constant whine going down the road with foot on the gas. Back off and it quiets up. At 2-3 MPH i think i can here a " tick- tick". Took the drive shaft off, wheels off ground, cover off and oil out. Spin wheel and i can hear a tick - tick, I think around the pinion bearing. No play up and down or in and out, but it appears to have 2-3 times the backlash i would expect. I used the screw driver- stethoscope--- still think its the bearing. This is a 9.75 axle. What kind of luck would I have pulling the yoke off and going in from the front without removing axles halves and ring gear? I thought I had read that here before. Never done one that way .
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I am working on my Dads 01 super duty with a 5.4, automatic, and the pinion bearing has seized up due to a lack of fluid from a rusted out rear diff cover. The tag on the diff cover had a 10.5 stamped on it and has 12 bolts. Is this known as a ford 10.5"
I have changed gears and pinion bearings in a Dana 70 before is this the same process? What are part numbers for a new pinion bearing and seal? Gears are in fine shape.
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I have LED bulbs for the rear turn signals but will need to replace the relay so I don't get the fast blink. Where is the dam thing and how do you get to it to replace it?
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My 2006 Prius with now 68,000 miles just had both front wheel bearings replaced today from an independent shop in town with a good reputation.
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This past week I changed out the front wheel bearing hub assemblys on both sides. I'm curious if completely disassembled one of the units? If so what did you use to get the large nut with the 4 notches in it off?
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My dealership said our left rear is noisy and that we need new wheel bearings and a speed sensor and to do an alignment and balance. I called my other wheel place and they are about $300 cheaper. But, they said I have the option of an OEM wheel bearing or different one. I'm a little confused, but I think the OEM would be about $85 more, if I understood correctly. Whether or not to get OEM for this?
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I'm attempting to replace a front wheel bearing and hub assembly on a 2004 Chrysler Sebring. I've removed all the hub bolts and all other more external components. I've tried hammering the assembly, reinserting the bolts partially and hammering those, a slide hammer, liquid wrench...
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How can you tell when your wheel bearing/hub assembly is going bad? I am hearing what sounds like "metal-on-metal" and I've already changed the brake pads, but the sound still persists. I was thinking about changing out the brake rotors since I did notice an inch long score on the rotor when I was replacing the pads. I don't want to spend a couple hundred dollars on rotors to find out it was my wheel bearing/hub assembly all along.
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I am not sure mine are done yet, but I was told by mechanic that they are failing and that the fronts aren't spinning as smooth as they should when up on the jack. They were investigating a sticky caliper at the time and said they believe heat from failing bearing caused that issue. I figured I'd do a little looking for parts pricing just incase. Does come with everything needed to change it? From reading, I found part # 73CZ-1104B is that the one?
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