Having problems with the vertical rear hatch window shattering? Mine is completely shattered, only the tint is holding it together. I can't see a single impact point (and don't think I backed into anything). It looks like a network evenly distributed over the entire rear window. But maybe this is the way safety glass breaks when it is hit at one point???
View 4 RepliesExperienced, rear window shattering after you shut your hatch? Weather conditions: Snow, unsure of what the temperature was at the moment, but i was brushing snow and scraping ice off my window.
View 5 RepliesI was driving down I-35 when all of a sudden I heard a loud boom sound and realized my rear driver passenger side window shattered and I was smelling a burning smell. I drove the vehicle directly to Don Ringler Service Station but they showed no concern or interest in looking into the issue and was told I would need to repair the vehicle at my own expense and never bothered to look into the burning smell issue.
View 4 RepliesI have a vertical scratch on the rear passenger door on the driver's side. When window is fully closed, the scratch starts from below the weather strip molding and goes up about halfway on the glass. It looks to me something inside the door is rubbing against the glass when it's rolled down.
View 3 RepliesI need to find a way to limit the rear hatch opening ... or find a taller wife.
View 18 RepliesI'm getting a rattle in the hatch area -- making a sound as if the hatch is moving independent of the body.
Sound like the hatch is loose -- but it's not. If I grab hold of the wing and try and move the hatch ---- it's tight and I get no sound.
I had a friend drive my car while I was in the rear hatch area trying to find a bad rattle. I discovered that it is inside a large plastic panel just where the rear window wiper motor would be. I'm sure if I could safely remove this large panel, I could find out what the rattle is and quiet it.
How to remove this panel? Are there some hidden bolts or screws? I don't want to force-pry it off if that is not the proper way to remove it. I'd sure rather do this myself than go thru the dealer rigmarole.
I've had my 2010 for about 17months and 16k miles. Early on, I remember that I was able to easily close the rear hatch by just lightly yanking down on the handle, and gravity would do its thing. However, these days, I need to pull down much harder to get it to close in one try. Should I try to lube the hatch shocks and hinge? Or do I need to clean them first somehow?
View 1 RepliesI bought a 2012 prius 4 with 42k miles recently. The car is just too loud. I've determined the "noise" to be the rear hatch bouncing when I drive over small bumps in the road. The bounce creates an air pressure change that is just too unacceptable. I've milled the hatch lock mechanism's holes into slots to I can close the hatch tighter. This made a little improvement. My next step will be to add some gasket material on the hatch itself so it closes tighter. My slots allow the hatch to bottom out so I had to back off the adjustment a bit.
View 5 RepliesWell I have had my T-Reg for 24 hours and only have one issue. The rear window on the hatch will not open. We read the manual multiple times and it states you just unlock the hatch and than hold the button underneath the wiper and it should open. No luck. Looks like it could be some electrical thing.
View 1 RepliesTook the car to the dealer, said "just turn off the beeps, all of them." The rep. said come back in an hour. Most of the beeps are off now, but I have an odd pair of problems.
1.) The rear hatch no longer beeps when open, but it also has no longer has the SKS function.
2.) The front seat belts no longer beep, but the front dome light no longer has an on-when-door-is-open function.
3) I'm waiting to see what bizarre side effects come from the single reverse beep.
The rep. says these are side effects from killing the beeps, that the nuisance beeps are tied to these two functions and that the only way to restore them is to bring back the beeps. He claims that the front beeps & dome light are triggered by a sensor inside the door that is part of the door latch, that when this sensor is disabled all its functions stop. I think he said it's the same problem with the rear hatch and its SKS.
I am going to install a center brake light flasher in the rear hatch. I see the panel that appears to cover the area I need on the inside of the hatch between the 2 windows. What is the best way to remove it? Am I on the right track?
View 3 RepliesI think my rear window shocks are shot. Last week when the temps hit -15 they completely failed. Are these a rebuild-able shock or do I need to purchase new ones?
Why do I have a bad feeling that this will be an overpriced item????
My friend who has two of my old Ex's and her silver '04 shut her hatch window first and then went to close the barn door and, well you know how that goes.
My question is, she has my old 2000 Ex for parts. Can the window be removed from the hatch itself or do we have to swap the whole hatch between trucks?
So since I got my GTI, I've had a streak on the outside of my window running vertical. I can clean it off, and the next time I roll my window down and then up I get a streak. I'm assuming something is in the door causing this?
View 6 RepliesRight now I'm planning to get 35% tint on my front side windows (legal limit in Nevada) and 15% on the rear side and back windows, although I may end up going lighter on the sides and back.
In any case I'm wondering whether or not I should have the lower back (strip) window tinted since, as mentioned on another thread, it has already been tinted by the factory. Also, it is the perfect height for my Corgi puppies to view the world and I don't want to obstruct their view. I'm also concerned about what some people have said about being able to see at night.
There is a scratch on the top outside of the plastic rear window divider. I don't know if it was vandalism or some flying road debris. I know how we all love the divider, however this is not nice on a car with less than 1000 miles
View 8 RepliesI was in a rear accident - and I took my 2012 Prius to my local body shop can to fix the rear frame.
During their repair - since they were replace the outer rear frame - they had to remove and reinstall the right rear quarter window panel of the car - the one with what looks like defroster grids.
When I got the car back - I noticed some of the grid lines were a little worn out.
So, What exactly do these grid lines do - are they defrosters? They have it only the right side of the window - the left side of the window doesn't have any grids.
I noticed one day when it was really cold and raining. My rear window had a lot of water droplet forming. It was odd that I tried to use my rear wiper and the water wasn't wiping away. I opened my trunk and to my surprise a lot of condensation has formed into water droplets on the window. It makes sense now why my cargo cover has water spots on it. I know my trunk doesn't leak cause I washed my car multiple times and no water has leaked. I have never seen condensation form so much on the inside of a window. Is this normal?
View 5 RepliesCar: 2014 Prius, basic model
Symptom: Only rear left electric window and electric lock are not working. They are not responding to driver side control or remote key control. Electronics on other 3 doors function normally.
I just had some body work on the doors on the passenger side. Now the master window control (drivers door) will not operate the rear passenger window. The rear passenger door window control DOES work. I went right back to the body shop and let them know.The guy called back saying something about a guy coming this monday to do a system reset?
I'm a new owner. Its a 2013 Prius 2.