Prius (2010-12) :: Rear Door Lock Sticking - Removing Panel
Apr 19, 2013
I gave my Prius to my mom a year ago. She was complaining that the rear door lock behind her can sometimes stick, resulting in it locking or not locking. Also any tips and DIY on how to remove the rear door panel?
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I just bought a 2010 RX450h and it is in overall great condition. The leather is damage though on the Rear Driver side door panel, so I am trying to remove it and get it repaired. I have removed 3 screws :
-one behind the door open/close latch
-one under the wood/window switch
-one in the handle area to pull door and close
I am now trying to take the panel off and have the bottom part pulled off. But I can't seem to pry open the top part... Am I missing something or a screw? Is there some trick? I am scared to break it.
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How to remove the interior trim on the rear quarter panel?
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Is it a big deal to remove the left rear interior door panel? The dealer replaced the door glass and, naturally, the tech didn't align the glass correctly. I'll align the glass myself.
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I just purchased a 2010 Barcelona Red Prius II to replace my 2008 vehicle of the same color (which is going to our daughter). We have a terrific dog who, in my 2008 car, would often step onto the metal part of the car when getting onto or off from the backseat. This has left scratches in the paint, as it lies behind the area protected by the grey plastic in both cars (i.e., where it begins to slope upward). Is there anything that can be done to protect this?
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Car: 2014 Prius, basic model
Symptom: Only rear left electric window and electric lock are not working. They are not responding to driver side control or remote key control. Electronics on other 3 doors function normally.
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I'm about to remove my door panel and it has an airbag. The usual saying seem to be to disconnect negative terminal from battery. Is that it? I can then disconnect airbag safely if required?
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I need to know how to remove the driver-side door panel on an 87 DeVille Sedan. My son just bought his first car and none of the windows work, checked the breaker, it is good. Our next plan of action is to remove the panel and see if anything looks 'off'.
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Recently, I've been having issues with my door locks. When exiting the car, and pressing the door lock on the outside handle, I would here the door lock solenoid fire once, then open, and the door would not lock. Same thing would happen when I used the FOB. The door would not lock. On occasion, I would get the door to lock, and stay locked by using the door lock inside the car when the door was open.
On the occasions when I did get the door locked, I then had issues unlocking. If I approached the drivers door to unlock the door, the car would just keep repeatedly beeping, and would not unlock the drivers door. But, the back door would unlock, so I could reach in, and open the drivers door from the back.
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I just picked up an R32 a couple weeks ago, and I've noticed that occasionally when using the remote door locks that the driver's door refuses to lock/unlock. When locking, the alarm doesn't arm as I assume the car doesn't think the door is closed. When unlocking, well, it just doesn't unlock. In both cases if I use the key in the door, everything works nicely.
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I bought my 2012 RX 350 April 2012. I noticed that the rear mirror had like melting or warp look. Then the side door panel and in back -wing of car (spooler?) had some ripples lines. I went to dealer first they said they would order parts for mirror and side panel (this was fix awhile back sept). but the have to get factory inspector to come out and inspect car for the spooler part.
I dropped my car off because the manager says he needs to look car himself before determining anything. He told me he thinks I parked my car near high efficiency windows and had reflected and caused the melting or warp or ripple on my car.
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How to remove the window control panel on your door panel on a 2010 prius? I'm not looking to remove the whole door panel I just want to take the little panel that has the 4 window controls off.
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I guess it's more of an annoyance thing than anything else. When I drive I like to rest my knee on the this area where the window switch is. If I drive over a bump etc...this area squeaks. Is it worth having the dealer fix or will it just return.
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Just having a little stereo work being done and noticed a wet floor under the insulation after removing the rear side panel covering the a/c unit. Is that normal? I read some folks have had to seal the fan box...is that most likely the issue?
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Just noticed that when I lock the doors with the remote or when the doors auto lock when putting the car in gear, the right rear door does not lock. upon watching the process, it appears the the actual lock itself does not move all the way to the locked position. However, if you lock it twice in a row, it locks. it would appear that something is blocking it to close all the way, like say gum or some other type of sticky substance but I could not find any.
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When the car runs at a certain RPM during idle, the door panel rattles/buzzes. This is usually when the car is first started. The idle speed changes at some point as it warms up and then it no longer rattles. Sometimes it also buzzes during acceleration when the engine hits a certain RPM or when driving on coarse spots in the road.
It has been very difficult to reproduce it at the dealership because there seems to be no way to control when the engine runs and to control the RPM. On top of that, it is affected by ambient temperature. If it is isn't cold enough, it doesn't happen. Is there any way to manually control starting and revving the engine? Is there any well-known issue that causes this or a known fix for the buzzing?
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I recently bought a 1994 Ford Ranger, XLT 4 cylinder supercab. They lost the door keys when they replaced the ignition because they never locked their doors. I bought new lock cylinders with keys and set out for an adventure. Removing the metal clamp that holds the cylinder in place was actually easier than I thought. It's that darn plastic piece connecting the cylinder to the rod for the lock system that will not break or come off. Here's the best picture I could find real quick. How do you get that vile piece of 20 year old plastic off? It's in a difficult place to get tools in there, and I can't seem to get leverage with a small screwdriver anywhere. What tips and tricks do y'all have?
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I have a problem with my driver side rear door's child safety lock. The safety lock is STUCK/BROKEN on the lock position and i cant get it back to normal... The door could only be opened from the outside right now at all times.
I took the door panel off too see if i could do anything to make it unstuck but very unfortunate...
The safety lock is a whole module itself. I bought it to my mechanic he checked it out and said it cannot be fixed and has to be replaced and he quote/estimated me just the part alone is roughly $300?
How much the part would cost in Sewell? I tried looking it up but cant locate it
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My driver side rear door won't lock any way that I try to lock it. I have tried to lock it by using the lock/unlock contol button that locks or unlocks all of the doors at one time on the inside of the drivers door and it won't lock. I have tried to lock it by pushing the rubber button on the outside of the drivers door and it won't lock.
I am unable to move the lock button next to door handle in the inside of the door on the rear drivers side door. Which led me to check the child lock lever that one can see when they open the door. Moving child lock lever doesn't do anything either way it is set to change the problem. Also I am able to open the door from the outside or the inside.
All other doors lock and unlock properly. My question is when there is an actuator motor problem does that make it so that one is unable to move the lock/unlock button on the inside of that door?
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A couple of weeks ago, I set the rear child door lock after my son opened the door and failed to shut it after a fill up at the gas station.
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I have a 2010 Prius and noticed that lately I sometimes have to press either lock or unlock several times before the little black and red switch moves to either lock or unlock.
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