Prius (2010-12) :: Rear Left Wheel Bearing Failure
May 10, 2012
At 46,400 miles of gentle driving, my left wheel bearing failed on my 2010 Prius, which was not covered by warranty because it is not 'drive train'. I was told there was nothing I did or could have done to cause this. I have had 4 Toyotas, two with over 200,000 miles, and never had this serious a repair (that wasn't my fault!). Am I being unreasonable to think this is unusual? I'm wondering if this car is going to continue to be a problem.
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My rear passenger tire spins easily and makes noise. Here is the link to video....
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Since the Prius is my wife's primary car, I can go a long time without driving. I recently have been driving it more, and it seems to me that it has the sounds of a failing wheel bearing. Between about 30-40 MPH there seems to be a distinct rotational noise that sounds to me like a loud wheel bearing from the front end. The sound seems to get quieter as I go faster, and at 60 mph + it seems normal.
My wife didn't notice any difference, but she drives the car everyday so maybe she didn't notice the gradual increase in noise. I know it's not tire related, because I just swapped tires. When I did, I didn't feel any play in the front bearings or feel any roughness when the wheels were rotated.
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Having issues with noise from either LT or RT front wheel bearings? My 2011 Elantra has some sort of noise coming from the LT frt wheel
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I thought I'd share, my rear wheel hub was very bad, wheel wobble when shook about a width of a quarter (found by the tire shop during tire purchase).
Shops were charging $450-$600 to do the work, however the part by itself is a bearing / hub combo, no need to separate the two, the dealer price for the part is around $250 and the OEM grade from Autozone was $90.
I didn't want to fork out that much money to do the work that looked simple, I was just concerned about the hammering to get the hub off the car.
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At 37000km we put new tires on and after about 1000km started to hear a high 'woo-woo-woo', from the rear, not really loud but a new noise. Guessing it might be tire noise I checked them for wear and thought the left rear was a bit sharp sliding your hand one direction but smooth sliding across the other way. Went for an alignment....it was only slightly off and the mechanic found the right rear wheel bearing was kaput.
It was done under warranty......but, do these vehicles are subject to premature bearing failure or was this a fluke? I did not see the bearing so I don't know if it was one of two or a pressed-on type or whatever. It would be nice to know that a wheel won't come flying off or seize up when we're halfway to nowhere if a bearing goes bad again.
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I had a ripped drivers side CV boot and had my indy replace the axle with a new Raxle. ~200 miles after the replacement the wheel bearing on that side went south. I shugged it off and had it replaced. Well, after 200 miles on the new bearing, it has also failed (100 miles from home). I gotta believe the 2 bearing fails are related to the new axle, but I don't understand how!
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I have 2012 Impala and hit a pot hole blowing out the left front tire but rim was not damaged, replaced the tire. Now the shop tells me that the wheel bearing has been damaged and the hub/bearing assembly needs to be replaced. I've never seen this happen. Is it possible that the bearing got damaged?
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Need to replace at least one rear wheel bearing, but still not positive which side. Getting a whump whump whump and slight howl at speed that seems to be worse going around right turns, so will change the drivers side first.
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So on my girlfriends 2000 echo I get the classic bad wheel bearing noise/vibration on the front left (driver side) wheel. Worsens under load (right turn) and goes away when unloaded (left turn). I've replaced left side bearing, CV axle, brake rotors/pads and the noise still persists. My next thought is maybe the ball joint but humming/vibration tells me something out of rotational balance. Bearing in the transmission? I don't know. I'm stuck.
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I'm replacing the rear hub/bearing assembly on my 2010 Prius. It seems pretty straight forward. What is the correct torque for the 4 bolts holding it on? Also what is the correct torque for the 2 bolts holding the rear brake caliper on?
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My girlfriend owns a '92 Plymouth Acclaim. We noticed a few weeks ago that there was a clunk/rattle noise coming from one wheel, and since it mostly happened while cornering, thought it might be CV joints or maybe suspension. She brought it to her mechanic who inspected the brakes and found that the rear shocks were bad, but sent her away without fixing anything. The other day, on a long drive, the rattle suddenly intensified, morphed into a loud grinding noise, and then the wheel fell off.
I think I'm going to have to confront the mechanic. The bearings apparently hadn't been repacked in some time, and were surely the cause of the rattle noise. I'm less concerned with the fact that he might have overlooked an obvious problem as much as neglected to properly service the vehicle.
Are brake techs supposed to check, then tighten wheel bearings or repack them if needed?
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I have a 2010 model 5 and am experiencing a woo, woo, woo, woo type sound. I thought it was from the rear but after jacking up and turning each rear wheel, all I hear is the slight drag from the pads on the disc. The car has 61K on it and from previous posts that seems to be about the mileage range for one. It is most noticeable above 25 to 45 mph. Bad front bearing with this sound? The car is covered under the platinum warranty so cost is not a problem, just getting it diagnosed is useful.
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Coming from an mk4 jetta with solid rear beam i know how the one side can be out a bit from the other. that being said the mk6's rear eand shouldn't be doing that at all right???
Because on my 2010 golf the right rear wheel sticks out more about 1/4" or so than the left. im on air and just got a full alignment done last week with my rear camber set @ -3 degrees on ride height. coz now im rubbing ever so little on bumps on the right rear that is why i noticed. i guess my question....is it normal for mk6's to have this too? if not...what coud be the cause of this?
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I have a 2000 Passat and brought it to a local shop to have the left front wheel bearing changed. He took the car apart and said he couldnt do it because the anti lock brake wire ran threw the control arm and had no plug on it and was wired right to the dash board. Should i find a different place to take it to or is it a dealer required fix. Can i buy the bearing myself and change it?
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Experienced a buzzing noise from left rear wheel well. I have noticed it a couple of times after the car has been parked in the garage and sitting for awhile. The dealer said it is normal and the auto suspension readjusting. However, it will continue for a long time but will turn off if I start it up. I am concerned this normal leveling will burn out the motor in do time. We have a 2010 premium.
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What is causing the right front wheel bearing to keep going bad on my 06 f-150 2 wheel drive....
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I have been having towing with the X. I have been getting a growl lately sounds like the front left wheel bearing. Today I jacked it up and did the wiggle text. I have a very slight wiggle in both wheels. Is a slight wiggle normal? I know the bearing on the left is more than likely gone as the growl goes away when I jerk the steering wheel. But I haven't heard any noise from the right side yet.
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My Excursion has proved to be a reliable winter vehicle, as was the intention. A few weeks back, at 116,000 miles, the right front wheel bearing started to squeal around left turns. Not very loud, so I didn't think it was all that bad, just an indication it was going. I jacked up the front of the truck anyway for good measure, and found a tremendous amount of slop in the bearing. Yeah, the bearing had disintegrated. Time for a replacement.
I bought a new replacement hub off of eBay, and proceeded to start tearing into the thing. Should be an easy repair... Right.
The repair itself is actually straightforward, but I had a few little snags get in my way. The one I'm facing now is that the new hub did not come with replacement studs, and the old hub's studs will not come out. Yes, I tried using a torch (and failed). I got one removed, only to find it's a fine thread and possibly Metric. Either way, it's not something that they have at Lowes.
Where to get more of these, or what the size is so I can order some from McMaster?
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My girlfriend and I just bought a 2011 a few weeks ago. We test drove it a couple times ourselves, and had our mechanic take a look at it and drive it also. Everything looked and sounded good. Not sure how much it matters, but it's a Certified Used as well.
A couple days ago, returning from a 45-minute drive which included some short stretches of gravel road, I noticed an oscillating sound. It's definitely not a noise that was there when we bought the car. Unfortunately, my cell is apparently bad at capturing audio, so hopefully my description will be enough.
The noise is very faint, almost inaudible, at low speeds. Between 30 and 35 mph it gets much louder, peaking at about 33. There's some vibration through the accelerator pedal also. Above 35, it fades pretty quickly and I can't really hear it at 50. The sound itself is 3 beats on, 1 beat off, about every second. There's a slight difference in pitch between each beat.
If that isn't enough to go on, let me know and I'll give the recording another shot and upload it if the noise is audible.
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I have a new 2 week old Prius 4. So far I love it. I've put about 600 miles on it. This past weekend I spent a decent amount of time on the freeway and noticed an issue with my steering. I'm pretty sure it is an alignment issue.
The car tracks straight. When I let go of the wheel the car goes dead straight but...the steering wheel is a bit off center turn slightly to the left. If I hold the wheel and turn the steering wheel right to exactly straight the car will go right. It's like they they aligned the car with the steering wheel slightly off center.
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